Quantity: 12 pure cream legbar eggs. FREE RANGE AND WE ARE ONE OF THE BEST CREAM LEGBAR BREEDER IN U.K. WE BREED ONLY CREAM LEGBAR AS A HOBBY.
We produce a high quality Cream Legbar, that meets the breed standards.
When I started keeping chickens, I wanted the best for type and breed cream legbar. We have cream legbar last 10 years.
WINNING BIDDER ACCEPTS ALL ASSOCIATED RISKS OF PURCHASING SHIPPED EGGS. WE CANNOT GUARANTEE YOUR HATCH RATE.
NO REFUNDS.
As stated in the listing, we test our eggs regularly for fertility, and are very confident in the viability of our eggs. Unlike a lot of other sellers, we not only test fertility by candling but also by regularly hatching our own eggs. As such we regret that we are unable to make refunds or replace eggs that do not hatch due to problems out with our control.
THESE ARE SOME OF THE BEST CREAM LEGBARS YOU WILL SEE ON E-BAY.COM
Raising Cream Legbar and breeding is not just a hobby it is an addiction. I've been breeding Cream Legbar since 2004 and over the past ten years, I have successfully maintained the breed standard and powder blue egg laying capability of this famous auto sexing breed.Our foundation stock includes lines from show winner and also our own birds that are of a very high standard. We keep careful records of who lays the most blue tinted eggs in our breeding pens, and by careful selection, and breeding only from our most prolific stock. We produce a high quality Cream Legbar, that meets the breed standards and still has the ability to lay up to 220 blue tinted eggs a year
The Cream Legbar is an autosexing type of chicken. This means that you can tell the sex of the chick at hatch, and they breed true. The Cream Legbar originated as a cross between Brown Leghorns and Barred Rock with some Araucana blood in them. This is reflected in the crest and the blue eggs that they lay. The egg colour is usually blue, though some will give olive eggs.
The Cream Legbar is quite an old, now very rare in its true form, pure breed. They are not anything to do with the commercial birds being used to produce multicoloured eggs for the supermarket trade.
The first cream legbars I had at the Garden were a bad example of the breed. Like many breeders, I naively trusted the breeder who supplied & took them at their gurantee that these birds were cream legbars. It was quite some time later that I finally began to investigate the breed & understand that what cream legbar should look like was a far cry from what mine actually looked like.
Cream Legbars are classy & elegant hens with cream capes and salmon coloured chests. They bring a splash of colour to any flock. Cream Legbars are very hardy and excellent foragers yet they are very friendly and inquisitive birds, always busy looking for morsals and they can be tamed quite easily. They are equally as good in Poultry shows as they are layers. I have found the cockerels to be non aggressive and very good flock leaders
Those cream legbars were sold to breeders where they would not be bred & I eventually sourced some correct eggs from show winning stock in order to begin again with cream legbar.
It has become more and more obvious to me that not only are correctly coloured cream legbar of the breed hard to find, but also there seem to be too many cream legbar expert who actually know what the breed should look like. Ebay,Facebook,online shop,offline shop, etc are selling and being sold birds that are at best poorly coloured cream legbar examples and in many cases, simply a blue egg laying hybrid not cream legbar.We would like more breeders to become aware of what a cream legbar is supposed to look like so that they can make an informed decision when collecting cream legbar.
Breed Standard
Origin: British
Classification: Light
Egg Colour: Blue, Green or Olive
General Characteristics:
Male
Carriage : Very sprightly and alert, with no suggestion of stiltiness.
Type: Body wedge shaped, wide at the shoulders and narrowing slightly to root of tail. Back long, flat and sloping slightly to the tail. Breast prominent, and breast bone straight. Wings large, carried tightly and well tucked up. Tail moderately full at an angle of 45 degrees from the line of the back.
Head: Fine. Beak stout, point clear of the front of the comb. Eyes prominent. Comb single, perfectly straight and erect, large but not overgrown, deeply and evenly serrated (5 to 7 spikes broad at the base), extending well beyond back of the head and following, without touching, the line of the head, free from ‘thumb marks’ or side spikes. Face smooth. Ear-lobes well developed, pendent, smooth and free from folds, equally matched in size and shape. Wattles long and thin.
Neck: Long and profusely covered with feathers.
Legs and Feet: Legs moderately long. Shanks strong, round and free of feathers. Flat shins objectionable. Toes, four, long, straight and well spread.
Plumage: Of silky texture, free from coarse or excessive feather.
Handling: Firm with abundance of muscle.
Female
The general characteristics are similar to those of the male, allowing for the natural sexual differences, except that the comb may be erect or falling gracefully over either side of the face without obstructing the eyesight, and the tail should be carried closely and not at such a high angle.
Male: Neck hackles cream, sparsely barred. Saddle hackles cream, barred with dark grey, tipped with cream. Back and shoulders cream with dark grey barring, some chestnut permissible. Wings, primaries dark grey, faintly barred, some white permissible; secondaries dark grey more clearly marked; coverts grey barred, tips cream, some chestnut smudges permissible. Breast evenly barred dark grey, well defined outline. Tail evenly barred grey, sickles being paler, some white feather permissible. Crest cream and grey, some chestnut permissible.
Female: Neck hackles cream, softly barred grey. Breast salmon, well defined in outline. Body silver grey, with rather indistinct broad soft barring. Wings, primaries grey-peppered; secondaries very faintly barred; coverts silver grey. Tail silver grey, faintly barred. Crest cream and grey, some chestnut permissible.
In both sexes: Beak yellow. Eyes orange or red. Comb, face, and wattles red. Ear-lobes pure opaque, white or cream, slight pink markings not unduly to handicap an otherwise good male. Legs and feet yellow.
Weights Male 2.70-3.40 kg (6-7 lb) Female 2-2.70 kg (4-6 lb)
Serious defects: Male's comb twisted or falling over, Ear-lobes wholly red. Any white in face. Legs other than orange, yellow or light willow. Squirrel tail.
Disqualifications: Side sprigs on comb. Eye pupil other than round and clearly defined. Crooked breast. Wry tail. Any bodily deformity.
Scale of points: Type 30 Colour 20 Head 20 Legs 10 Condition 10 Weight 10
We are breeding pure Cream Legbar which meet the breed standard.
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If anyone using it without permission, will take legal action without reporting or asking that person.
Terms and Conditions
In bidding on this Auction or Purchasing through Ebay, you agree to pay immediately following the end of the auction. If payment is not received within 12 hours and no contact has been made explaining why, I will cancel your purchase and provide a second chance offer to the next highest bidder. These strict payment terms are to ensure the health of the hatching eggs. The best chance of a successful hatch eggs, is if they are less than 6 days old at the start of the hatch. As such, immediate payment is required to ensure that the best time scales are adhered to in terms of collection and starting incubation.
Replacement Eggs
WINNING BIDDER ACCEPTS ALL ASSOCIATED RISKS OF PURCHASING SHIPPED EGGS. WE CANNOT GUARANTEE YOUR HATCH RATE.
NO REFUNDS.
As stated in the listing, we test our eggs regularly for fertility, and are very confident in the viability of our eggs. Unlike a lot of other sellers, we not only test fertility by candling but also by regularly hatching our own eggs. As such we regret that we are unable to make refunds or replace eggs that do not hatch due to problems out with our control.
This is a guide to help anyone buying hatching eggs on ebay or anywhere else for that matter. We have been raising Cream Legbar . The vast majority of our hatching egg buyers have extremely high hatch rates from our flock year around but we do see a slight decrease in fertility in the fall and winter months. It is very important that buyers understand the issues surrounding egg Viability, Fertility and Shipping. Any egg that does not develop was not necessarily infertile or not viable at the time it was shipped. There are many circumstances that can cause an egg not to develop and many more that may cause it not to hatch if it has developed to full term.
Maybe your first attempt at hatching eggs didn't go so well.....maybe your eggs didn't develop at all??? This could be caused by several things including too much bouncing around during shipment, exposure to too much heat or cold....both can cause problems for hatching eggs. Perhaps a postal worker left the eggs sitting on a dock, in their truck, or left them in your mailbox or on your door step untill you got home from work on a very hot or cold day! Any of these drastic changes in temperature can be very harmful to your eggs.
Let's assume the eggs arrive in good condition and none of the previous bad stuff has happened.
Once your eggs arrive and we assume they were properly handled, they should be allowed to get to room temperature upon arrival before putting them in the incubator. We recommend letting the eggs rest at least 8 hours after they arrive, some hatcheries recommend 12 hours rest before incubating. If your eggs arrive with excessive dirt on them you may want to "clean" them. Some recommend washing them with warm water after they reach room temperature before placing them in the incubator. This is up to you, some breeders DON'T recommend cleaning eggs but others DO and have very good hatch rates with clean eggs vs dirty eggs! Do not scrub or handle the eggs roughly simply remove the dirt with your fingers and pat the egg dry with a soft clean cloth, new baby diapers work well for this.
Be sure your incubator is clean and properly disinfected with a commercial incubator disinfectant. Make sure it has been set up in advance of the eggs arriving. The incubator should have a steady temperature and proper humidity at least 24 - 36 hours before your eggs arrive, an incubator just started up can fluctuate significantly with respect to temperature and humidity. Make certain you have it properly set to the correct temperature and humidity for hatching the eggs you purchased, too. Some incubators can vary in temperature and humidity if they are in a room that has significant temperature changes, this is equally critical when you set up an incubator for the first time. Most chickens hatch within 21 days, Ducks and Geese take longer - 28 days or more depending on the breed.
Finally, everything was properly setup in advance and some eggs have not developed or after 22-23 days some of your eggs did not hatch. Several things can happen to cause eggs not to develop, one is the humidity may be too high. This causes the chick to fill the entire shell and not have room to turn to peck it's way out. If the humidity is too low the chick stays smaller but can not reach the shell to peck its way out because the membrane being dryer has shrunk back from the shell.
Then there are issues of bacteria infecting the egg as it developes, many times this is caused by rapidly hatching batch after batch of eggs without sterilizing or disinfecting your incubator in between hatches. Hatching eggs should be candled after 5-7 days and again at 14 days of incubation to determine if the egg is still viable, if bad eggs are not removed they can spread bacteria to the good eggs! Many new comers to the world of hatching their own eggs neglect to properly disinfect their incubators or neglect to candle their eggs at proper intervals. When a problem arises they then jump to the conclusion that they were sent eggs that were infertile. Most of the hatching egg sellers on ebay are reputable and do their best to get you good viable eggs for hatching. There is always a risk of rough handling during shipping and if you are not willing to take that risk then you may want to purchase day old chicks. However, day old chicks can have similar issues concerning shipping!
Hopefully, this guide has helped someone understand that buying hatching eggs is a risky proposition and that sellers can not be held responsible for rough handling, shipping damage (heat or cold) or poor incubation practices. Breeders can not afford to replace any egg that does not hatch and it is not always a case of the buyer getting infertile eggs. There are just too many variables for breeders to control when it comes to shipping hatching eggs. Sellers should do their best to get the eggs to the buyer in one piece and in a timely manner, the rest is up to the buyer to make sure he or she does everything right and the incubator is operating properly when the eggs arrive.
IF YOU DO NOT AGREE WITH THE ABOVE, I RESPECTFULLY ASK YOU NOT TO BID ON MY EGGS.
On 26-Jan-15 at 14:47:06 GMT, seller added the following information:
