Here are a pair of Walthers O scale O gauge 2-rail Pullman-Standard heavyweight 6-wheel passenger car trucks.  They're used but not abused and in good condition.  They are painted flat black.  Color coverage is good with only a few spots on the tops of the side frames where the paint has worn off.  Detail is good.  Simulated leaf and coil springs.  Rivets on the journals, detail on the journal box covers.  Metal axles and 36" diameter metal wheels with scale flanges for use on 2-rail track.  If 3-rail is your persuasion, however, these trucks can quickly be converted to that use by switching out the wheel sets for 3-rail scale wheels sets -- an easy conversion.

Plenty of miles  left in these trucks.  And because they're all metal, they'll add good weight to any passenger car, lowering its center of gravity, which will help it track better over rough track and crossovers, through grade changes, and around curves in a train, especially sharp curves,  where there's a tendency for cars to be pulled off the track.

Like many Walthers trucks, they may need to be fiddled with to prevent the outer wheel sets from falling out of the side frames.  There are several ways to do this.  First is to adjust the screws holding the truck bolster to the side frames, loosening or tightening as necessary.  If the bolster is too narrow, some shimming may  be necessary.  If too wide, which is common, you may need to file or mill down the width of the bolster.  Or you could extend the axle with thin tubing.  What you should not do is try to bend the side frames.  They are brittle and will break.  Soaking the side frames in hot waster may or may not work.  Heating them with a hair dryer or heat gun also may or may not work, but watch you don't burn your fingers.  They'll be hot!  Don't try to bend the side frames unless they have softened.

Walthers no longer makes these trucks, or much of anything else O scale.  It hasn't in 30 years, which is too bad, because when these trucks were made, they were preferred by modelers for their detail, accuracy and good quality.  Those are some of the same reasons they're still sought after by modelers today.  While they're not yet scarce (There seems to be plenty around), their number is after all finite in that what's been made is all there is and all of that is in the hands of other modelers like yourself, under built-up cars or in boxes stored in closets or under the layout waiting to be added to a car.  If you want a pair, you'll have to wait for one of those modelers to decide to sell.  At times that could make them temporarily hard to find.  Best to buy them when you see them for sale and not be caught short or left with a passenger car unfinished.  It's probably a good idea to have a spare pair or two as replacements for trucks that become broken, or for a car or kit you may buy that comes without trucks or has the wrong trucks.  It's a pretty sure bet if you wait,  you'll pay more for these trucks later.  Their price isn't going down.  It's only going up.

For a while, Keil-Line was making the Walthers passenger car trucks, but the availability was spotty.  Now Scale City Designs of  Warren, Ohio, has acquired the Walthers molds from Keil-Line and started to reissue the Walthers trucks, but at stepped up prices -- $33 for 4-wheel trucks with 36" wheels, $44.50 for 6-wheel trucks with 36" wheels.  It's the cost of 36" wheels that drives the price way up.  New side frames are still reasonable at $14-$24, but with NO WHEELS.   That makes used Walthers trucks and even previously owned truck kits something of a bargain at $25 or so.  Be prepared to pay more, maybe lots more, in the future.

HOW TO BEAT SNIPERS.  If you're as fed up as I am with snipers beating you out time after time at the last minute for an item you want, then "MAKE AN OFFER" IS YOUR BETTER BET.  No snipers.  No one topping your bid.  It's really your best chance for getting what you want at the price you want.  I do it all the time and I'm frequently surprised how successful I am bidding that way.  You should try it.  Frankly, I'm surprised more eBayers don't.  I've switched a lot of the items I'm selling to "BUY IT NOW" with the "MAKE AN OFFER" option and I'm dismayed at how few offers I get.  The fact that a seller offers the "Buy it Now" option should say to you that he's willing to accept  something less than his "Buy It Now" price.  How much less?  Well, probably not a great deal less, like 50 percent.  That's just unrealistic. But 10 percent is a more likely amount and sometimes it's more!  Don't be put off if the seller comes back to you with a counter offer.  That's horse tradin'.  And that's fun too. Why don't you GIVE IT A TRY.

A word or two about PAYMENT.  EBay requires you use PayPal, but other methods of payment may be accepted by me.  Email me to discuss it if you don't use PayPal.  I don't want you to not be able to bid just because you don't use PayPal.  

FREE LOCAL PICK UP in the Philadelphia, PA, area.  FREE DELIVERY in the Glenside PA, area.

SHIPPING.  I don't charge you for my time spent packing or the packing materials used, or for running to the post office, or any of the other charges some other sellers tack on.  No high shipping and extra handling charges here.  I reuse clean boxes, envelopes and packing materials to save YOU money.  The shipping I charge is what the shipping actually costs the least expensive way I can find.  I don't use expensive packing and delivery services as some sellers insist on for their convenience, not yours.  You tell me how you want your item shipped and that's how it goes.  You pay what it costs and that's it.

I try to accurately estimate the shipping costs on my auction page and in my invoice but, if the actual shipping cost turns out to be less than what you've paid, I will refund the excess.  On the other hand, if the actual cost is more, which happens occasionally, I will expect you to pay the additional, and I will bill you for it.  That's only fair, no?

COMBINING PURCHASES.  If you buy more than one item at a time from me, I will be happy to combine them into one package to save you on shipping.

INSURANCE.  The post office now includes insurance up to $50 free with all Priority Mail packages.  Insurance for more than $50 is at additional cost.  I require full-value insurance coverage insurance on all packages including first class, priority, flat rate boxes, media, parcel select and standard post packages with a value of more than $15-$20.  Items selling for less than $15-$20 usually are shipped with no insurance.  The post office now also provides tracking free with first-class and priority packages and all insured packages.  That way I know exactly when you have received your purchase. Sadly, few eBay buyers have the courtesy to email to say their item arrived.  I've had a few jokers tell me their items never arrived when, in fact, they did.  So, long ago I started to require tracking on every shipment and that put a fast end to that little scam.  I haven't had one claim of nondelivery since.  Sad commentary on some folks, isn't that?

EBay also has extended its FEES so that it now imposes its fee not only on the final sale price of an item, which it certainly is entitled to and is fair, but also on the cost of the shipping, which it isn't entitled to and isn't fair.  That's a BIG bite, especially on international sales, and, as a result, many sellers have raised their handling fees to cover this additional and unfair expense, passing it on to you, the buyer, hidden in a higher shipping and handling cost.  If you too think this is unfair, tell eBay. 

Sorry, no RETURNS accepted and no refunds given.  I don't see the need.  I inspect every item I sell to make sure all its parts are there, in good condition and working.   I describe my items thoroughly,  accurately and honestly -- more so than many eBay sellers do, I'm sad to say.  I don't hide or hold back on mentioning any of an item's flaws.  The only way buying by long distance, sight-unseen works is by sellers being honest, ethical and describing their items accurately, truthfully and completely,  even if it's to their detriment.  Photos, I've found, often hide as much as they show, so I describe fully.  I'm a modeler, not a dealer, selling my items to raise cash for new hobby purchases and to make room for them, and to get rid of items that now are surplus to me.  I don't want to see them back.  I am not selling on approval like a stamp dealer, so all sales are final.