Miniatures may be Lead or White metal, some parts may be plastic or resin. Items will be carefully and professionally packaged in bubble wrap and sent in a Jiffy bag. Metal miniatures are stripped (unless sold as New or Painted), so you can see exactly what you are getting. The picture shows the standard of the item that you will receive, likely not the actual one that you will receive. The picture may show a painted item so you can see what the figure can look like with time and effort. I try to get all items reconditioned back to what they were when originally sold. Any lead rot, it's binned. Damaged or poorly cast items are either binned, or if sold then they are clearly labelled as damaged, as people may want these for conversions. Books are sold as Reconditioned, if they are second hand, or New if they are mint.

Additional pictures may show the reverse of item but you only get one of what is shown in the main listing picture. If additional pictures show other items then they will be included. The listing may state "Dwarf 7 Dwarf Dwarves" this means that the original catalogue description was Dwarf 7 and the other descriptors are so people searching can find what they want. Please read full description for exactly what you will receive though, and please be aware that bases are usually not included unless shown in the picture. Item received may be darker than shown, as the camera flash can make the item look brighter. 

Sorry, but I don't take offers on the price. Please don't contact me asking to buy items cheaper than shown, because if I start to, then I'll be inundated with different people E-Mailing me, which it's nice to chat, but I'd never get anything done. Not that I'm big business, it's just me in the back room. I do not sell fakes/copies. I wouldn't want to be ripped off myself, and wouldn't rip off others. I've been in contact with Games Workshop in the past, for their advice over this, I will report people who do, and will continue to do so. Fakes are theft. People who do so are stealing, and make peoples collections worthless. If you see it, report it.

COMBINED POSTAGE OFFERED: Please use the basket and then request the combined invoice that will save you money. If E-Bay won't let you request an invoice, use E-Bay.co.UK & not E-Bay.COM or other E-Bay sites. If unable to use the basket, commit to buy each item BUT DO NOT PAY, wait, and I'll send an invoice to you. Also some mobile device Apps don't allow it as they show less options on the page, if you use a PC, then it likely will. Postage price includes the protective packaging and combined postage savings usually notice at 3 items or more. Please only pay the discounted postage invoice. If unhappy with the postage cost, please contact me, prior to paying, to discuss. Higher value orders will be sent signed delivery, this may also be dependent on the country and buyer ratings. PLEASE CONTACT ME BEFORE LEAVING ANY BAD FEEDBACK. Items are sent out the same or the next day. Unfortunately I have no control over rare postal delays, please be mindful of this if leaving low star ratings. Thank you.

Check out my shop for quality, hard to find, original items available worldwide. The shop links in this part of the listing will show more items for sale than other links or shop icons elsewhere on this page. SHOP LINK:  Hygienic Porridge Miniature Emporium  Thanks for looking.

1999 Dark Elf Black Guard Of Naggarond Citadel Pro Painted Elven Army Warhammer.

Twenty painted Dark Elf Black Guard of Naggarond miniatures. Useful for any Warhammer Fantasy Battle army (WHFB) or Age of Sigmar (AOS) under the Darkling covens. They include the full command unit and are on a two part movement tray and all are magnetised. Some grip better than others, but they pretty much remain in place for any game. The earlier Marauder Black Guard were called the Black Guard of Naggaroth. They were a much weightier metal miniature. This later Games Workshop later edition, of the Witch King Malekith’s personal army, were not as solid looking and much thinner. Naggaroth translated means The land of chill and is a very harsh frozen tundra wilderness environment. With tall Pine forests and jagged mountains. A sixth edition Dark Elf white metal miniature. These Black Guard can be first seen in the Citadel 2002 catalogue, but better pictures are shown in the 2005 catalogue where the command unit, which consists of the Champion, Musician and Standard Bearer, are shown with reference 85-45 and the troops as 85-44. That catalogue only show three Dark Elf Black Guard troopers. There are others. The third one shown in that catalogue actually has two variants, with slightly different head positions and hair (both have their chins showing). This figure is then switched out for a further model (that has chainmail covering it's chin) which can be can be seen in the 2008 catalogue. In that catalogue the troopers are then given reference 99110212079. The Command group are given the new reference of 99110212078.

This listing also includes a brand new cardboard KRQ one quarter (1/4) KRU sized box for protecting the painted gaming miniatures. It contains three foam layers. 2 x M4H sized layers and the foam top sheet. The Kaiser Rushforth KR storage boxes are good Archive quality cardboard and their motto soft foam for figures, hard cases for soft foam is very apt.  

It's always difficult to state how good someone's paintwork is, so I've taken the best pictures that I can. Pro Painted (meaning professionally painted) is a term that is overused on E-Bay. A professional painter is someone that makes a living doing it. So that doesn't mean that they have to do it well, as a painting service could churn out a huge amount of airbrush sprayed paintjobs, such as some army painters out there. I'm not saying that people working for that painting service or studio do not have talent for figure painting, just that they have to paint to what the market wants, or what the individual customer wants to pay for. That may well be mass pre-painted armies. Different people are happy with different standards, and a lot of it is in the eye of the person that perceives the artisans finished painted miniature. Some people are happy with a very basic paintjob be it paint brushed or airbrushed. I would use the term Pro painted for a level of skilled paintwork that I would not put the item in paint stripper, as the artists paintjob is just too good for that. At a certain level of quality it passes a pivotal balancing scale point, that it is unlikely someone else will take the time, effort and have the skill or patience to paint that model to a higher standard. An artist is someone that produces an item that is aesthetic, to them or others. Painted miniatures that are above the level that I'd strip back cover a wide field. A well known standard is Games Workshop's Golden Demon. There are three levels, Bronze, Silver and Gold, but even that can come down to peoples perceptions of art, as some years Golden Daemon can be surpassed by the prior years, due to the level of that years entrants, and what is considered artistic at the time. Fashion changes what is considered art, and it may come down to what is popular at the time.

Many different painting techniques can be used for figure painting, from simple ones for shading such as drybrushing, highlighting, washes and any weathering. Also certain advanced painting techniques such as Non Metallic Metal (NMM) or the layering and feathering blending techniques, using a wet palette. Toning, outlining and edging can add substantial time to a project as can any little details on the miniature to add individual character. Various quality paints can be used, either enamels or the more popular acrylic mediums, as well as different formulations of inks and varnishes. When you buy a painted miniature, be it a studio painted commissioned piece, exactly how you specified it, or something that just happens to be what you want, you are paying for three things. The materials used (be it the miniature itself or just the paint, inks and basing materials), the painters skill and most costly, their time to complete the project. I think people see a pre painted miniature and think, "hmmnnn, that's a bit of money," but possibly they only see the cost to actually buy the miniature itself (which is another add on cost) rather than all the hours that went in to create it, from start to finish of the project. The invested time in getting that figure to that high standard is it's inherent value, but the real value for some is in the enjoyment of using it in gameplay, or having it admired on the shelf.

Personally I see a good part of the unseen cost going into the preparation of a gaming miniature. I can spend nearly an hour filing a 28mm figure and washing off any oils from my hands ready for spraying on the undercoat. For metal miniatures you have to remove flash, file off the mould lines and remove any runoffs that crop up in the moulding process. Plus, if it's multiple parts, there is the drilling and pinning all the separate pieces. To drill and pin multiple parts for assembly can take hours on larger miniatures. Then there's use of any filler needed for gaps or damage to moulds such as voids or breaks. For plastic it's easier to glue parts together but there's still removing it from the sprue, scraping any mould lines off, positioning and filling gaps. Any further sculpting or conversion work can add many hours to a project. There are artists out there speed painting miniatures to an acceptable standard on their commissioned work. I can't speed paint, as I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and it can take me 8 to 10 hours to paint a single 28mm miniature, plus if you really start putting nice detail on the base, then that adds to the time taken. As with anything in life, the longer you spend on something, the better it will turn out. All those hours for any project cost money, so you only have to look at what you would earn per hour, and start to add it all up. How much is your time worth?

The artist has chosen a purple colour for the armour, which is classic Dark Elf. I'd say that they were painted to a good army standard of painting. A nice little regiment for an army. I've taken the best pictures that I can, but if you are unhappy on receipt, then there will be no issue on them being returned, as per E-Bay guidelines. These Undead figures have two coats of satin varnish on them.

IF YOU BUY PAINTED MINIATURES PLEASE BE AWARE THAT PAINT FADES IN SUNLIGHT. THIS CAN OCCUR OVER A PROLONGED TIME AND CAN GO UNNOTICED UNTIL IT IS TOO LATE. I PERSONALLY FEEL THAT INK WASHES, ANY MANUFACTURER'S INKS, ARE NOWHERE NEAR AS GOOD AT RETAINING THEIR COLOUR AS PAINT IS. IF KEPT AWAY FROM SUNLIGHT A PAINTED MINIATURE WILL LAST A  LIFETIME, BUT IF DISPLAYED IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT (EVEN BEHIND GLASS) FOR PROLONGED PERIODS THEN THE ULTRAVIOLET RAYS (UV) WILL AFFECT THE PAINTED COLOURS OVER TIME AND INKS (PERHAPS IN ONLY A FEW MONTHS) WILL JUST FADE AWAY EVEN QUICKER IN COMPARISON. IF YOU ARE TO DISPLAY THEM SOMEWHERE, DON'T ACCIDENTALLY RUIN THEM OVER TIME. IF YOU DO USE A CABINET (TO KEEP DUST OFF AS IT CAN GET IN ALL THE DETAILING) THEN HAVE IT IN A SHADED CORNER UNDER UNNATURAL LIGHT. THE BEST WAY IS TO KEEP THEM SAFE IN A FOAM STORAGE CASE SUCH AS A KAISER RUSHFORTH (KR) MULTICASE.

Games Workshop Citadel brought out some excellent Dark Elf metal miniatures and over the years have added some great figures to the range. The GW Dark Elves first appeared in the Fantasy Tribes range (Fantasy Evil leaders FTE) as a Night Elf lord, in a flyer at the end of 1982. Citadel then released their Speciality boxed sets, one of which was Set three Night Elf patrol SS3 (Evil Elves of the underworld), and you'll see the distinctive helms start to appear. They are slightly smaller than later Dark Elves that GW brought out. They can be seen advertised in Games Workshops White Dwarf 38 February 1983 and also the First Citadel compendium of the same year. These were designed by Alan and Michael Perry (better known as the Perry twins).

There was then some scale creep as GW sized up the Dark Elf line slightly (as they did with many lines over time) dropping the Night Elf name and using the C09 reference for the second edition Lead pre slotta Dark Elf range of miniatures. The C09 descriptor was kept for when GW moved over to the slotta based figures with plastic bases. These C09 pre slotta Dark Elven troops appeared in the Citadel February 1984 flyer. They added to the Dark Elves range in the March 1984 flyer and also showed the first Cold Ones and riders (both Slann and Dark Elf cavalry) under the C21 reference (the prior C21 cavalry were named as Fantasy cavalry, and were actually Goblin Wolf and Boar riders). If you compare these preslotta C21 Lizard riders to the later C21 slotta based miniatures, you'll see the scale creep easily as the earlier pre-slotta Cold One riders are much smaller. This is even more noticeable in these cavalry, in comparison to a standing figure, as they are sat with their legs bent in a horse riding position. 

They also brought out the RR4 Mengil Manhide's Company of Dark Elves Regiment of Renown set in this year. These Dark Elfs were shown in the Games Workshop Citadel 2nd Citadel compendium and the July 1984 flyer (pre slotta version). These Elven warriors can also be seen later in the October 1985 flyer and again on the Spring April 1987 flyer, which showed all of the Regiments. They were re-designed in 1985 for the 20mm by 20mm plastic base standard, that the Warhammer fantasy battle wargame still uses today. When they were redesigned they were confusingly again brought out under the RR4 reference (RR4B), but this later changed to RR11 (or RRD11 depending on where you read about this. I believe RR11 is correct, as this is used in the later Citadel 1991 Red catalogue).

The story behind these Dark Elves can be seen here:

http://www.solegends.com/citrr/rr04manhides.htm

They always came up with some great little stories. The Regiments of Renown really were excellent sets, and at a good price. 

The full first and second edition range can be seen here:

http://www.collecting-citadel-miniatures.com/wiki/index.php/Dark_Elf_(WHFB_1st/2nd_Edition)_-_Collectors_Guide

The October 1985 flyer showed the new second edition slotta C09 Dark Elves as did the Citadel Third Compendium which also included the new slotta Cold One rider miniatures. GW then added to the C09 range in the Citadel August 1986 flyer and these can also be seen in White Dwarf 80 August 1986. they were not shown again in White Dwarf, until WD108 which showed the Command group metal mini's. They changed the reference number from C09 to 1101. This reference fitted in with the Citadel 1988 and 1989 catalogue references, although no Dark Elves were shown in either. Some figures later appear in the GW 1989 Winter trade catalogue under the 074252 reference and they are again shown in the Citadel 1991 Red catalogue. You'll also see some of these metal miniatures in the Games Workshop 1993 US catalogue under the reference 8510, 8511, 8512 and 8513 along with some of the Marauder range.

The full third edition range can be seen here:

http://www.collecting-citadel-miniatures.com/wiki/index.php/Dark_Elf_(WHFB_3rd_Edition)_-_Collectors_Guide

After this Games Workshop brought out the fourth and later fifth edition Dark Elf white metal miniatures that were designed by Aly Morrison (some figures in conjunction with Trish Morrison and/or Colin Dixon). These were a more regimented looking range with very minor differences between the different metal figures, where as what came prior were in all different poses and appeared a much wider choice due to it. I assume this more regimental change was due to Games Workshop Citadel moved over to a business model of promoting it's bigger selling Warhammer Fantasy battle lines, rather than the minor other lines that they had brought out prior. A shame as it's these other lines that really hold interest me for me now, but the newer edition did have many more specific unit types, to fit in with the 4th edition Warhammer Dark Elf Army book. Some of the miniatures from this era state Marauder on their slotta, but they were sold as Citadels product. This edition can be seen in the GW 1995 catalogue up to the Citadel 1999 annual.

The full fourth and fifth edition range can be seen here:

http://www.collecting-citadel-miniatures.com/wiki/index.php/Dark_Elf_(WHFB_4th/5th_Edition)_-_Collectors_Guide

GW re-did their Dark Elf figures for the 6th edition War hammer when they released their second Dark Elf Army Book. Many of this line were designed by Chris Fitzpatrick (the Cold One Knights, Black Ark Corsairs, Witch Elves and Black Guard Of Naggaroth, plus most Special Character figures). These can be seen in the Citadel 2002 catalogue and included many more plastic miniatures.

The sixth edition range can be seen here:

http://www.collecting-citadel-miniatures.com/wiki/index.php/Dark_Elf_(WHFB_6th_Edition)_-_Collectors_Guide

GW improved the Dark Elves over time, as with all the ranges, but they still kept the overall feel of them. They will all fit in with your evil elf army for Warhammer Fantasy Battle tabletop wargaming, or any other wargame ruleset.

The Dark Elves or Drow as they are known in the Advanced Dungeons and Dragons Roleplaying game, are a dark skinned subrace of elves with pale hair colours. That's depending on where you read about them. Dark Elves live underground in the Underdark and are the evil cousins of their topside relatives. They represent the darker side of the Elven race, being either Chaotic evil or Neutral evil, and are sometimes referred to as Fey humanoid, Dark Elvenfolk or Night Elves.

The Drow were first referred to in the Dungeons & Dragons fantasy roleplay game in the 1st Edition 1977 AD&D first Monster Manual. It refers to them as Black Elves or Drow and states that they are only legend, purportedly dwelling deep beneath the surface world, in strange subterranean realms. It clearly states that they are evil, mentioning that they are, "as dark as Faeries are bright." It is later written that it was the Fairies and Elves that drove the Dark Elves underground to their caverns. The Drow D&D stats (statistical information) can be found in the Fiend Folio D&D rulebook. Gary Gygax wrote this piece on the Dark Elves, which was taken from the fantasy roleplaying modules that he had written which included them. The Drow Elves appear in the G3 and D3 sets of D&D modules. These sets could later be purchased as one in the Queen of the Spiders adventure module. In the AD&D realm the Dark elves were weaker fighters and favoured poisons, but had very powerful magic. The strongest magic users and sorcerers were the female priestesses.

The Dark Elves are first presented as a player character race in Gary Gygax's 1985 Unearthed Arcana rulebook. Several Elven sub-races are described in the book, including Grey Elves, Wood Elves, Wild Elves, and Valley Elves. The evil Dark Elves are described as the most divergent sub-race, and any Dark Elf player characters are considered outcasts from their homeland, either by choice, differing from the standard chaotic evil alignment of the race, or having lost in some family-wide power struggle. The Dark elves have some excellent and powerful magical items, but these lose their power and degrade rapidly when removed from the Under dark and exposed to sunlight, turning to dust.

The Drow are later presented as a role player character race for the 2nd edition 1992 book The Complete Book of Elves and are now fully a part of the Advanced Dungeons and Dragons role play ethos. They can also be found in various other game systems such as Pathfinder role playing game. Pathfinder also has Half Drow, who are also referred to as Darkborn by humans or Thinblood by Drow. They are the equivalent of Half-elves. There are also various books written on Drizzt Do'Urden, probably the most famous Dark Elf, who also appears in various computer gamesConversely the Dark Elves are known as Druchii in the Warhammer world and live above ground in massive densely populated cities. The Druchii are pale skinned with raven black hair and truly evil.

Regards the above links, thank you to the individuals involved for taking the time to make that information available for people. An excellent and detailed resource.

SHOP LINK:  Hygienic Porridge Miniature Emporium  Thanks for looking.

I only post to the invoice address. Please read postage, packaging, returns and payment details prior to bidding. Item is in good condition, unless otherwise stated. There may be residual paint on it, all miniatures have been washed to remove any residual chemical paint stripper, but I advise washing in soapy water with a toothbrush prior to painting, due to handling. I'm a collector, and honest seller, with excellent feedback. If there is an issue, then please contact to discuss, prior to leaving poor feedback. 

WARNING. This is not a children's toy. It is a collectable for adults and is not recommended for young children under the age of 14 years old. Use of the product is at the user’s own risk, who by purchasing accepts responsibility from the point of receipt. CHOKING HAZARD, may contain small parts. Please be aware that the items, and the packaging that they are received in, are a choking hazard and may restrict breathing. They may pose a DANGER OF SUFFOCATION so please either store or dispose of packaging carefully. Do not ingest and keep away from small children. Items received may contain Lead and other metals, do not place in the mouth or swallow as it may be harmful if eaten or chewed. Wash your hands after handling and keep away from foodstuffs. Use of gloves is advisable in handling, especially if you have allergies to the product. Items and parts sold may have sharp points, edges or a cutting blade, be aware and avoid puncture injury to the eyes. Store carefully as items may be a slip, trip or fall hazard.