eBay

This auction is for a 30.25"Short Scale Conversion Bass VI 6 string for the S style body- with a S style peghead and heel at a Buy it Now price of $125.00.

Short scale conversion Bass neck for the S style body with no modification necessary for intonation, I start with the 25.5" scale and moved it out three more frets to achieve the 30.25" scale. Please note, there's a 10-15 business day build/handling time on these. I try to keep it to 10 days but when it gets real busy it can take a bit longer.

My standard Specs for this neck are as follows:

· 30.25" scale.

· one piece Eastern Hard Rock Maple (a standard for bolt on necks)

· single action truss rod

· black walnut skunk stripe

· Six step drilled holes for the smaller standard die cast Gotoh/Grover/Schaller mini guitar tuners for the bass VI neck, see last picture

· S style heel

· 1 5/8" at nut

· 2 3/16^th” at Heel

· 14" radius Hard Maple fret board

· 1/8^th “ nut slot, Nut not included, to add a bone nut see extras down below.

· 24 frets

110" wide, .053" tall frets installed, for fret level see extras down below. I spray two coats of lacquer on the fret board. Let me know if you plan to put more finish on the fret board. I will sand with 320 dry then buff slightly with fine scotch guard then install the frets. This makes it easy to add more lacquer if you choose to do so. When I do add more lacquer after the frets are installed, I take and cut masking tape into thin strips by laying it on a peace of glass and using a straight edge and utility knife blade. ( I usually use 12" to 16" strips) You can tailor the width of the strips to best cover the tops of the frets but letting the lacquer bridge the fret board and bottom edge of the frets. Comes with no mounting holes, for an extra $5. I can drill those, see extras down below

· 7/32" black position marker top dots.

· 3/32" black side dots.

· Standard back cut a vintage U, similar to a 54 T/S style round back, .875" at the first fret, .975" at the twelfth fret.

EXTRAS If you choose to have any extras done you can commit to buy but don't pay, send a message with which extras you would like and I will send an invoice for the correct amount.

Fret work. I can do a fret mill (level) crown and polish the frets for you as an option for an extra $25, if you do not have the experience to do this yourself, this option comes highly recommended.

Bone nut. For an extra $25. I can rough in a bone nut cut in with nut files and left a little high (factory) left loose so you or your tech can tailor it to your own taste. To secure when your ready just put a dab of wood glue on the outside bottom two edges, install on neck and tighten the strings, the outside two strings is all you need to tighten, let sit for a hour or so and your good to go. You can put all the glue you want to glue this on, but the more you put on the harder it is to replace later on.

Drill mounting holes. For an extra $5. I can drill those for you.

The neck comes sealed with two coats of nitrocellulose lacquer that will let you assemble your project without the hassle of having to put a finish on yourself. Not meant to be show room perfect, but hard and durable.

A word about e-mails and messages, Any options, custom modifications we might have talk about prior to purchase needs to be rewritten at the time of purchase. So, for the record, and as a reminder to me to keep your order straight, please leave me a message

Shipping, I have shipped over 1,200 necks in the last five years, in that time I've had one legitimate shipping claim, it seems that the package slid out of the UPS shrink rapped pallet and was run over by the forklift, pronounced DOA at the seen, end of story. The second one was international, and I never did receive any documentation, pictures or any solid evidence that it was in fact damaged, just a whole lot of accusations and finger pointing. So, because of the potential of damage from mishandling, I have added extra padding to the ends of the neck to help alleviate any problems with mishandling during shipping. If your neck does arrive damaged, there are steps to take to fix the problem.

1st, If it arrives with obvious damage, refuse it, return to sender, let me handle it.

2nd, Or, you can except it with documentation that it was in fact damaged in shipping, if you decide to do this, you might end up with some return shipping cost at your expense.

International the shipping price does not include any tariffs, import duties, or any other form of taxation your country imposes upon arrival. These taxes can be 40% of the selling price or better, you should check with your postal service first if this will poss any problems.

1st same as above, refuse it, return to sender, let me handle it.

2nd, except it with documentation that it was in fact damaged in shipping, if you decide to do this, again, you might end up with some return shipping cost at your expense if it turns out to be worse then you thought. if it turns out to be playable and that's good enough for you, we can start an Ins. claim to help with the pain and suffering. To help you out as much as possible, I will need three things to verify the extent of the damage for the Ins. claim.

!st, pictures of the damaged neck

2nd, pictures of the box shipped in as received, this will make for a better case.

3rd, Documentation from the post office that it arrived in said condition, all can be sent via e-mail, (a claim number that e-bay and myself can access via internet will suffice for the postal service documentation)

I can only help you if you give me something to work with, I will not give any kind of reimbursements under any circumstance without the above information.

Mounting, Truss Rod, and Finishing tips

Mounting your neck, I have come up with a simple way to mount the neck, you will need,

1. A reversible drill,

2. A set of drill bits in 64ths from 1/16th-1/4"(you will be able to assemble your instrument with this set.)

3. A quick grip clamp with the soft rubber pads. (optional)

4. A digital caliper (optional)

To start, fit your neck to the body, with the body lying flat on a table, or other flat surface, support the neck so it lays flat in the neck pocket, with a yard stick, check the alignment of the neck to the bridge, hold your yard stick along the edge of the neck, from the nut down past the bridge, if your bridge mounting screw holes are drilled, you want the yard stick to be equal distance from the edge of the outside two holes. Note the gap in the neck pocket at the upper end, place a shim of the appropriate thickness at that point.

Now you will pick the guitar up, stand it on the butt of the body, with the neck pointing straight up, place the quick grip in the cutout, holding the neck tight in the pocket, with the handle on the top side of the guitar; check to see if it is aligned with the shim in place, and also that the heel is tight to the body. Now find a drill bit that just fits the holes in the body, this will be used to drill a center dimple for the mounting hole in the neck, put the drill bit in the reversible drill, make sure it is tight, now, MAKE SURE THE DRILL IS IN REVERSE, insert the drill bit in the holes, one at a time and just hit the trigger lightly, going backwards, this will just drill a small dimple in the center of the mounting holes. When you’re done with all four, remove the drill bit.

Now you will need the right size drill bit to drill the mounting holes. In rock maple the drill bit should be no smaller than the shank of the screw. With a digital caliper, measure between the threads on your screw, your drill bit should be no smaller then that measurement, but rather, the same size. On softer woods, you can go smaller, but not the hard Maple.

Put the appropriate size drill bit in the drill, at this time. Put one of the screws along the cutout to see how far into the neck it will go, look to see that it won't go too far, then place the screw alongside the drill bit in the drill, adjust the exposed length of the drill bit so it only sticks out the length of the screw. Tighten the chuck on the drill, and double check that the length is still right. Go through the mounting hole in the body, keeping the drill bit centered in the hole. Drill your mounting holes. You’re now ready to mount your neck. I also use this method to center the holes for the tuners as well.

The Truss Rod - single action = single rod. What I do is snug up the rod, don't over tighten. Tighten just enough to where the rod doesn't rattle. With light gauge strings and low action, these heavier 50's style necks shouldn't need much more attention for some time. Before I do a string change, I'll check the relief to see if it needs to be adjusted; if it needs to be, I will snug it up a little when the strings are off. Always adjust the truss rod with the strings off, or way loose. If you do a lot of guitar repairs, you will notice that the guitars that are easy to adjust with the strings on (Gibson – Gretch - Fender bullets), have a lot more problems with broken or stripped adjustment nuts. When the torque to twist the nut becomes greater than to twist the rod, the rod will twist. That's when the trouble starts. If the brass nut doesn't strip, the rod will twist until it snaps; usually at the anchor (Gretch guitars are famous for this). It takes a little bit more time to adjust, tune, de-tune, adjust, tune, check, but done right, you shouldn't need to readjust for quite some time.

The finish - these necks come standard with two coats of nitrocellulose lacquer, this will hold up well with moderate usage, You can apply more, just sand lightly with 320 grit dry. If your going to use anything other then nitrocellulose lacquer, the original finish should be competently removed. What you don't want to do is wet sand between coats, raw wood will suck it up like a sponge, swelling, cracking , twisting, and all kinds of ugly stuff. I dry sand right up to were I get ready to buff. I use paint thinner (mineral spirits), on the hard finishes; lacquers - urethane's - and such. Be careful, even mineral spirits will swell up the raw wood. Not nearly as badly as water, but it will swell. Be most careful around end grain; the very back of the neck, front of the peg head, and especially the tuner holes. Why you ask, because the tuner holes are almost all end grain, hard to get enough finish applied to seal it from moisture; any kind of moisture. I tape this area off, and dry sand it after everything else is done. I have a lot less problems that way.

Any question, please ask, thanks for looking, DC