ELECTRIC SUNROOF REPLACEMENT ROOF OUTER SKIN

FOR BRITISH OPEN CLASSIC MINI & NISSAN PAO.

THEY BOTH SHARE THE SAME ROOF THE FITTING INSTRUCTIONS ARE THE SAME ?   

WILL POST WORLD WIDE ASK FIRST ABOUT COST

STEVE@EASYEBAY.NET

 

NO LONGER AVAILABLE NOW FROM THE MAKERS  
WE HAVE BEEN MAKING THESE REPLACEMENT OUTER ROOF SKINS FOR ABOUT 14 YEARS NOW & SENDING THEM ALL OVER THE WORLD TO PRIVATE OWNERS AND CLUBS ALIKE.
THEY COME WITH STEP BY STEP EASY FITTING INSTRUCTIONS PLUS PHOTOS INDUSTRIAL GLUE E.C.T 

[ GLUE ONLY SUPPLIED TO UK ] WE ARE NOT ALOUD TO SEND GLUE IN THE INTERNATIONAL  POST BY ROYAL MAIL. IT WILL COME WITH DETAILS OF THE TYPE OF GLUE YOU WILL NEED

COME STANDARD IN BLACK
WE CAN MAKE MOST COLORS ASK

WE HAVE NOW STARTED MAKING THE OUTER ROOF SKIN IN A MOHAIR TYPE CLOTH &VARIOS COLORS BUT @ AND EXTRA COST OF £100.00 PE-ROOF ASK?

STEVE 07836713404 ANY  QUESTIONS ?WORKING HOURS PLEASE

FITTING INSTRUCTION,S IF LEAVING THE MAIN FRAME WORK IN THE CAR

THINKING ABOUT FITTING A NEW ROOF FABRIC TO A MINI SUN ROOF / NISSAN PAO

If you are capable of DIY it will present no problem and will be easy to renew a shrunken or ripped roof. It involves gluing with contact adhesive, but the new roof has all the lines marked on it so you know where to position it. The glue is included in roof kit supplied by FIGAROCARS. The one thing it may require whilst replacing the cover are the 2 wire bond stretchers that run inside the outer edges, these are located in sprung retaining brackets which are pop riveted with a total of eight 3mm pop rivets. The cables can be all rusted through, but if yours are ok you just rivet them back as they are.  New ones can be fabricated from cycle brake cables, (most brake and gear cables are stainless steel now) and usually come with one nipple already attached. Once the 2 springs are threaded back onto the new cable another nipple needs to be crimped on, (the total length over nipples is 1085mm), if you do not have a complete old one to measure.  Draw strings are included in the new roof to allow you to feed them through the stitched channels.

 

STARTING THE JOB-- REMOVAL OF THE WHOLE ROOF NOT NECESSARY. BUT I THINK  ITS THE BEST WAY ?

Start by opening the roof about 300mm, (If it will not power open use the emergency handle to wind it back) Pull off the edging rubber around the roof aperture, carefully unstick the headlining from that same aperture and drop the headlining down at the rear, (you can remove the whole headlining but it is a lot of extra work and may get damaged in the process). On the headlining (of the opening roof) where it tucks up at the front, push it forward to gain some slack and unhook it off the retaining hooks and allow to hang down. ) This exposes the 6 front header fixings , 3 each side, two 10mm nuts and one Phillips machine screw.) Once they are removed the header rail comes free and lift clear, (FIG 2A &3) at the rear under the rubber seal next to the 10mm nuts holding the wholeroof unitin there are 6NoPhilips machine screws,  remove these to release the rear header of the sun roof, you may find it easier if you remove the 6No 10mm nuts and flat retaining bar to get at them (you will notice the holes are slotted, we will come to that on reassembly). Remove them and lift the rear header forward and it uncovers the 2 inspection plates   held on with 4 machine screws in the aluminium runners.  Once removed  you slide all the hoodsticks back and out of the apertures, (FIG 8) on the end of the hood sticks there are sliders (FIG 9),  that’s the roof covering separated from the roof. You can now work with it on the bench, remove all the covering where it is stuck to the front and rear headers,  there is a rubber seal on the front header which you remove and glue back in position when the new cover is in place, as do the small sponge fillers at each side. This is the point when you find if you require new cables. Drill out the old pop rivets (3.1 drill bit) from the 4 retaining brackets located at each corner, unclip the spring and nipple, clean up the springs and brackets grease them so they slide easily within. Lay out the new cover and use the draw strings to pull the cables back into place, pop rivet the brackets back in place, apply the adhesive to both the new cover and the steel headers, allow it to go touch dry and then stick in place making sure you stay on the pre marked lines of the roof. Lastly stick the 4 corner covers in place to tidy up the corners. From there on it is self-explanatory  and is reversal of the above,  the only tip here is when tightening the 6 rear header screws, make sure the header is at the rear of the slots (so you have a small amount of adjustment in the future if the need arises, as you will never have to make it tighter).  It is at this point a good time to clean and oil up the mechanism, you may also have noticed 4 drains(1 in each corner) and DO NOT try to poke anything down them as they are blocked off on the Mini installation with a plastic caps and if you loosen them or make a hole in them water will run inside the car.  The best practice is not to rush but give yourself plenty of time to complete the job.  You will find the new roof cover at first will have some fold creases and may look slightly baggy, but do not panic it will pull into place within a couple of days for a nice fit.  Now is the time to wait for the sun to come out and then roll that canvas back with ease…………………….




THINKING ABOUT FITTING A NEW ROOF FABRIC SUN ROOF

TO YOUR MINI  OPEN CLASSIC  OR NISSAN PAO THEY SHARE THE SAME ROOF
 
If you are capable of DIY it will present no problem and will be easy to renew a shrunken roof. It involves gluing with contact adhesive, but the new roof has all the lines marked on it so you know where to position it, and the glue is included in roof kit supplied by FIGAROCARS. The one thing it may require whilst replacing the cover are the 2 wire bond stretchers that run inside the outer edges, these are located in sprung retaining brackets which are pop riveted with a total of eight 3mm pop rivets. The cables can be all rusted through, but if yours are ok you just rivet them back as they are. New ones can be fabricated from cycle brake cables, (most brake and gear cables are stainless steel now), and usually come with one nipple already attatached. Once the 2 springs are threaded back onto the new cable another nipple needs to be crimped on, (the total length over nipples is
1085 mm) if you do not have a complete old one to measure. Draw strings are included in the new roof to allow you to feed them through the stitched channel.

STARTING THE JOB

 

THE WHOLE ROOF UNIT BEING REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE!!!!

Start by opening the roof about 300mm, pull off the edging rubber around the roof aperture, carefully unstick the headlining from that same aperture, and drop the headlining down. ( you can remove the whole headlining, but it is a lot of extra work and may get damaged in the process)


Then on the headlining, (of the opening roof) where it tucks up at the front, push it forward to gain some slack and unhook it off its retaining hooks and allow to hang down. This exposes the 6 front header fixings. Remove the exterior plastic wind deflector,

disconnect the motor wiring connector, pull off the 4 drain pipes at each corner, undo the 40 10mm nuts holding the roof in the car, and with some help lift the whole unit out of the car.

With it laying on the bench with the inside facing up, you can now undo those 6 front header fixings, 3 fixings each side, two 10 mm nuts and one Phillips screw. Once they are removed the header rail comes free, then at the rear under the rubber seal there are 6 Phillips screws which releases the rear of the sun roof, (you will notice the holes are slotted, we will come to that on reassembly) remove them and now turn the whole roof unit up the other way. Lift that rear header forward, and it uncovers the 2 inspection plates held on with 4 screws in the aluminum runners.


Once removed you slide all the hood sticks back and out of the apertures, that’s the roof covering separated from the roof. Next remove all the covering where its stuck to the front and rear headers, there is a rubber seal on the front header which you remove and glue back in position when the new cover is in place, as do the 2 small sponge fillers at each side. This is the point when you find if you require new cables. Drill out the old pop rivets (3.1 drill bit) from the 4 retaining brackets located at each corner, unclip the spring and nipple, clean up the springs and brackets, grease them up so they slide easily within. ( "You can get round this without drilling if are careful by prizing open the bracket just enough to remove the spring and wire and then again to replace it"). Lay out the new cover and use the draw strings to pull the cables back into place, pop rivet the brackets back in place, apply the adhesive to both the new cover and the headers, allow it to go touch dry and then stick in place making sure you stay on the premarket lines of the roof. Lastly stick the 4 corner covers in place to tidy up the corners. From there on it is self explanatory and is reversal of above ,the only tip here is when tightening the 6 rear header screws, make sure the header is at the rear of the slots( so you have a small amount of adjustment in the future if the need arises, as you will never have to make it tighter). It is at this point a good time to clean and oil up the mechanism, blow out the 4 drains and check they are not blocked. It is advisable to put a temporary 12 volt supply on the motor so you can check the operation of the roof before putting it back in the vehicle. The best practice is not to rush, but give yourself plenty of time to complete the job. You will find the new roof cover at first will have some fold creases and will look slightly baggy, but do not panic it will pull into place in a couple of days for a nice fit. Now is the time to wait for the sun to come out and roll that canvas back with ease.....................