URQHUART

AND GLENMORISTON

OLDEN TIMES IN A HIGHLAND PARISH

DESCRIPTION: , Hefty 4to (26cm / 2kg), xxi - 596 pages.with 15 plates (see list below). original cloth boards (new cloth spine) . 

CONDITION: VERY GOOD.  Original cloth boards have a new spine which is in fine condition.  Tight binding. Fresh endpapers.  Gift inscription from the author to half-title.  An excellent presentation copy of the second edition of this work in a scarce large-paper format, albeit with a new spine.  The usual format is brown cloth (see old stock photos below). Full preface and contents/list of illustrations after the photos.

PREFACE


THE following pages are the result of much gathering, begun during my school and college days, of the traditions and legends and songs of my native Parish, and of much searching, in more recent years, for written records referring to it. I have endeavoured to give in them a plain and accurate account of the Olden Times, and a true picture of the Past. The work is, however, that of a novice in book-writing, who has written it, for his own diversion and recreation, during hours of freedom from the labours and anxieties of a busy professional life; and, while no effort has been spared to ensure accuracy of statement, the book is probably not without blemishes of a literary nature which it might have escaped in other hands, and under more favourable circumstances.

I have received generous help in connection with the work. My parents, whose wonderful store of legend and song first suggested it, and the old people, all over the Parish, whose tales at many a ceilidh are still a pleasing recollection, are now beyond the reach of this expression of my gratitude; and so is The Chisholm, who placed his family papers at my disposal.  Others who helped are, happily, still with us. To Caroline, Countess Dowager of Seafield, I am specially indebted, for free access to the numerous and invaluable ancient papers preserved at Castle Grant. My thanks are also due to Mr Fraser-Mackintosh of Drummond, for the use of interesting documents in his possession; to Dr Dickson, Curator of the Historical Department, Eegister House, Edinburgh; Mr Clark, of the Advocates' Library; Mr Law, of the Signet Library; the Rev. Walter Macleod, Edinburgh; Mr Francis James Grant, W.S., Edinburgh (a worthy descendant of the learned James Grant of Corrimony) ; the Clerks of the Synod of Moray and of the Presbyteries of Inverness and Abertarff; and the officials of the Record Office, London, for much courtesy and aid in the course of my researches; to Provost Ross, Inverness, for the very successful "restoration" of the Castle, which forms the frontispiece, and for the architectural description and ground plan of the Castle; to Mr Mackintosh, artist, Inverness, for the sketches of the Bridge of the Leap and Mac Uian's Pool; to Mr Grant of Glenmoriston, for the loan of the Killicrankie Shield, of which an illustration is given, and for the portrait of Patrick Grant, the protector of Prince Charles; to Mrs Grant, senior, of Glenmoriston, for the drawings of Iain a' Chragain's Sword and the Glenmoriston Pillory; to Miss Cameron, late of Lakefield, for the drawing of the Urquhart Brooch; to the Council of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, for the illustrations of the Balnalick Urn and Bronze Blade, and of the Balmacaan Sculptured Stones; to Mr J. E. N. Macphail, M.A., advocate, Edinburgh, who has, at great trouble, revised almost all the proof-sheets; to Mr Alexander Macbain, M.A., Inverness, who, in connection with the appendix on Place-Names, has freely given me out of the abundance of his Celtic learning; to my father-in-law, Mr John Mackay, Hereford, author of " Sutherland Place-Names," for valuable suggestions on the same subject; and to my Wife, who has relieved me of much of the labour connected with the transcription of old writings.

It has been the will of Fate that the story of the Parish should be told by the last man who has a home or a holding in it of a family who, for centuries, acted some little part in that story. I hope I am doing the old place a service and not a wrong by publishing it. I trust, also, that no one will find cause of offence in anything I have recorded concerning his or her forefathers. It is the duty of the historian, however humble he or his subject may be, to tell his tale truthfully and without favour; and I have, in endeavouring to act up to that duty, experienced the pain of having to record unpleasant things, not only about my own forbears, but also regarding ancestors and relatives of some of my best friends on earth. The only comforting reflection is that the men of the Past ought not to be judged by the moral standard of the Present.

 WILLIAM MACKAY.

 CRAIGMONIE, INVERNESS, Christmas, 1893.


CONTENTS



CHAPTER I

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH BEFORE 1296

PAGE

The Early Ages. Physical and Climatic Changes. Early Man.
The Caledonii. The Picts. Urchard in Moravia. The
Legendary Origin of Loch Ness. The Children of Uisneach.
The Wars of the Picts. The End of their Kingdom.
Incursions of the Norse. Monie, Son of the King of
Scandinavia. The Conflict of Craigmonie. The Risings of
the Moraymen. Conachar in Urquhart. The Big Dog and
the Wild Boar. Origin of the Forbeses, Mackays, and
Urquharts. The Harrying of the Church Lands. The Pope's
Protection to the Church of Urquhart. Gillespic Mac-
Scolane's Deeds and Death. Urquhart Granted to Thomas
Durward. Sir Alan Durward. Dispute regarding Church
Lands. The Settlement. Sir Alan's Death. The Cummings 1

CHAPTER II
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1296 TO 1362

Edward I. invades Scotland. John of Glen-Urquhart. Urquliart
Castle taken by the English. Sir William Fitzwarine Con-
stable. He is harassed by Andrew Moray. A Sabbath Day's
Journey and Fight. The Countess of Ross in Urquhart.
Moray Besieges the Castle. Death of William Puer and
Fitzwarine's Son. An Army of Relief. The King's Instruc-
tions. Fitzwarine's Letter to the King. Sir William
Wallace. The English expelled from Urquhart. Forbes
Constable. Fitzwarine in Prison. His Wife's Devotion.
Edward's Great Invasion. The English again in Urquhart.
Forbes and his Garrison put to the Sword. His Wife's
Escape. Sir Alexander Gumming Constable. Bruce.
Thomas Randolph Proprietor of Urquhart and Glenmoriston.
His Highland Followers. His Regency and Administration
of Justice. His Murder. Death of his Son, Thomas
Randolph. John Randolph. Sir Robert Lauder holds the
Castle against Baliol. His Visitors at the Castle. Sir Eobert
Chisholm. John Randolph Slain, and Chisholm made
Prisoner. Chisholm Constable of the Castle. Death of
Lander. His Character 1$



CHAPTER III

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1346 TO 1455
The Barony of Urquhart reverts to the Crown. Is granted to the
Earl of Sutherland. Acquired by the Earl of Stratherne.
Sir Robert Chisholm. His Urquhart Possessions go to the
Wolf of Badenoch. Stratherne lets the Barony to the Wolf.
The Wolf withholds the Rent. A Royal Quarrel. Appeal
to the King. The Wolf and the Bishop. The Burning of
Elgin Cathedral. Thomas Chisholm. The Wolf's Death.
Scramble for his Possessions. Urquhart seized by Donald of
the Isles. Charles Maclean. Parliament deals with the
Castle. The Red Harlaw. The Barony possessed by the Earl
of Mar. Claimed by the Duke of Albany. A Compromise.
. The Castle repaired by the King. Death of Mar. The Lord
of the Isles seizes the Barony. Hector Buie Maclean's
Exploits. The Tragedy of Caisteal Spioradan. Ogilvy of
Balfour holds the Castle for the King. The Castle taken by
John of the Isles. No Rent. Parliament annexes the Barony
and Castle to the Crown ........ 38


CHAPTER IV
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1455 TO 1509

The Lordship of Urquhart granted to the Lord of the Isles for
Life. He and his Highlanders in England. His Rebellion
and Attainder. The Earl of Huntly in charge of the Lordship
and Castle. The Macleans claim Urquhart. Their Position
and Power. A Thirty Years' War. The Lordship let to
the Baron of Kilravock. Opposition to him. Arbitration.
Bonds of Friendship. Strange League against the Baron.
He throws up his Lease. The Parish Waste. Sir Duncan
Grant to the Rescue. His connection with the District. The
Conflict of Foyers. The Red Bard in Urquhart. Struggle
for the Lordship. Lease to the Bard. The Bard King's
Chamberlain. He trades with the King. The Lordship
granted to Himself and his Sons absolutely. The reasons
for the Grants 59-

CHAPTER V

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1509 TO 1535

The Charters of 1509. The New Baronies of Urquhart, Corrimony,
and Glenmoriston. Eeservation of Church Lands. The
Proprietors' Duties and Services to the Crown. The Castle
to be added to and Strengthened. The Inhabitants to be
Protected. Waste Lands to be Eeclaimed. The King's High-
way to be Improved. Bridges to be Maintained. Hemp and
Flax to be Cultivated. Strange Division of the Parish.
Gradual re-adjustment of Marches. Troubles with the
Inhabitants. Troubles with the Crown. Compositions for
Crimes. The Last of the Macleans. Invasion of Sir Donald
of Lochalsh. A Large Booty. Prices of the Period. The
Bard's Proceedings against Sir Donald. The Bard's Treaty
with Lochiel. Death of the Bard. Seumas nan Creach.
Barbarous Decree against the Clan Chattan. Urquhart
exempted from the jurisdiction of Local Courts . . .77

CHAPTER VI

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1535 TO 1560
Troubles in the Western Highlands. Feud between Ranald Gallda
and John of Moidart. The Lairds of Grant and Glenmoriston
assist Ranald. Battle of Blar-na-Leine. Glengarry and
Lochiel invade Glenmoriston and Urquhart. The Great
Raid. The Spoil and the Despoiled. Urquhart Burnt.
Incidents of the Raid. The Strong Woman of Richraggan.
The Big Smith of Polmaily. His Adventures with the
Fairies. A Wonderful Filly. The Smith's Sons Slain.
Legal Proceedings against Glengarry and Lochiel. Their
Lards apprised to the Lairds of Grant and Glenmoriston.
Glenmoriston's Death. His Character and Influence. Dis-
pute regarding his Succession. The Ballindalloch Feud.
Death of the Laird of Grant. Sad state of the Country. The
Justiciar of Urquhart and Glenmoriston. A ghastly Gift to
the Queen Regent. The Reformation. The Church's Patri-
mony Alienated. John Mackay acquires Achmonie. The
other Church Lands fall to the Grants . . . . . 94

CHAPTER VII

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1560 TO 1626

The Camerons and Clan Ranald plan another Raid. Mackintosh
and Mackenzie of Kintail ordered to protect the Parish.
League of Loyalty to Queen Mary. The Men of Urquhart
and Glenmoriston in Arms for her. Their March into the
South. Urquhart Feu-duties applied toward the Queen's

Maintenance in Lochleven Castle. Patrick Grant of Glen-
moriston invades Ardclach. He marries the Thane of
Cawdor's Daughter. The Thane builds Invermoriston House,
Iain Mor a' Chaisteil of Glenmoriston. His Combat with
an Englishman. His Fir Candles in London. His Influence
and Acquisitions. Appointed Chamberlain of Urquhart.
He murders a Packman. Criminal Letters against him.
Feud between the Macdonalds and the Mackenzies. The Raid
of Kilchrist. The Conflict of Lon-na-Fala. Allan of Lundie's
Leap. The Murder of the Mason of Meall-a'-Ghro. Bonds
of Friendship between the Laird of Grant and Glengarry ,
and Allan of Lundie. A Big Timber Transaction. The Laird
saves Allan . 118

CHAPTEE VIII

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1603 TO 1640
The Proscribed Macgregors seek Shelter in Urquhart and Glen-
moriston. Their Harbourers Fined. Their Evil Influence on
the Men of Urquhart. Doule Shee's Raid. Commission of
Fire and Sword. Housebreaking at Balmacaan. The Carron
and Ballindalloch Feud. Career of Seumas an Tuim. His
Supporters in Urquhart and Glenmoriston. The Castle
Repaired. The Clan Chattan in Urquhart. Their Friends
Prosecuted. The Earl of Moray persecutes Grant of Glen-
moriston. Grant visits the King, and His Majesty Intervenes.
Death of Glenmoriston and the Laird of Grant. The Story
of the Covenant. The Covenant subscribed by the Lairds of
Grant and Glenmoriston. Opposed by the Parish Minister
and Lady Mary Ogilvy, Liferentrix of Urquhart. A Short
Conflict. The Minister Yields. Attempts to stent Urquhart
for the Army of the Covenant. Lady Mary's Concessions . 136

CHAPTER IX

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1640 TO 1647
The Solemn League and Covenant. Montrose and Alasdair Mac
Cholla Chiataich take the side of the King. The Laird of
Grant and the Tutor of Glenmoriston hold aloof. Alasdair's
Requisition on the Tutor. The Tutor's Trick. A Brilliant
Campaign. Battle of Inverlochy. The Laird of Grant sends
men to Montrose. The Covenanters invade Glen-Urquhart.
Lady Ogilvy robbed and driven out of the Parish. Her
Appeal to her Son. Undertaking to support the King.
Montrose's description of the Laird's Recruits. Urquhart
Men killed at the Battle of Auldearn. Montrose's Higli-
landers in Glen-Urquhart. Kaid upon the Aird. Lovat calls
upon The Chisholm to drive the Eoyalists out of the Parish.
Disputes and Notarial Writs. Montrose's vengeance on the
Frasers. His skirmish in Glenmoriston. His Exile. Huntly
takes the field for the King. Middleton defeats Huntly in
Glenmoriston. Lady Ogilvy's Troubles and Death. Feud
between her tenants and those of Glenmoriston. A Fight at
a Funeral. Death of the Big Miller. The Condition of the
Castle 150

CHAPTER X



OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1647 TO 1668
Landing of Charles II. He is supported by the Laird of Grant.
Patrick of Clunemore at Worcester. The Fate of his Fol-
lowers. Cromwell's Soldiers in the North. Glencairn's
Eising for the King. Lochiel and Kenmure in Urquhart.
Middleton supersedes Glencairn. Middleton pursued by
Monck. Monck in Glenmoriston and Kintail. Middleton
defeated. Dalziel of Binns and Middleton in Glenmoriston and
Strathglass. The Chisholm tried by Court-Martial, and Fined
and Imprisoned. The English place the First Ship on Loch
Ness. The Story of the Event. Peace and Prosperity. The
Eestoration. The Caterans Let Loose. The Hanging of
Hector Maclean. The Burning of Buntait. Dispute between
Glenmoriston and Inshes. Glenmoriston Burns the Barns
of Culcabock. He seizes Inshes and keeps him Prisoner. Is
apprehended by the Eobertsons of Struan. The Dispute
settled. Donald Donn and Mary Grant. Donald's Career,
Capture, and Death . 166

CHAPTER XI

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1668 TO 1690
The Laird of Grant's Chamberlain killed by Mackay of Achmonie.
Mackay forced to surrender Achmonie to the Laird. Fatal
fight in Slochd-Muic. Achmonie conferred on William
Grant. Eestored to the Mackays. Thomas Grant of Bal-
macaan. Culduthel's Eaid on Borlum. The Castle repaired.
The Monmouth Eebellion. Unsettled state of the Country.
The Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston support King
James. The Eevolution. The Laird of Grant supports
William and Mary. The Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston
adhere to James. Dundee's Campaign. The Camerons' Eaid
on Urquhart. Quarrels in Dundee's Camp Killicrankie.
Adventures of Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston in the
Battle. Iain a' Chragain's Troubles. Invermoriston House
Burnt, and Glenmoriston Devastated. A Whig Garrison in
Urquhart Castle. The Castle besieged by the Jacobites.
Supplies for the Garrison. The Haughs of Cromdale. Close
of the War 191

CHAPTER XII

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1690 TO 1708
The Parish Unsettled. The Castle garrisoned by the Whigs.
They Vacate and Destroy it. Its Last Eecord. Its Chambers
of Treasure and Pestilence. King William's Measures to
subdue the Highlands. Devastation of Urquhart. The
Losses of the Laird of Grant and his Tenants. Compensation
recommended by Parliament, but refused by the King.
Insecurity of Life and Property. Raids and Dackerings.
Proceedings against Achmonie. Eaids by Glenmoriston
Men on Dalcross, Glencannich, and Dunain. Colonel Hill
endeavours to stop their Adventures. Horses stolen from
Shewglie. The Track and its Eesult. The Macmillans of
Loch-Arkaig-side take a Spoil from Glenmoriston. The Fight
of Corri-nam-Bronag. The Eaid of Inchbrine. The Conflict
of Corribuy. Death of Shewglie. His Son's Revenge.
Death of Gille Dubh nam Mart 210

CHAPTER XIII

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1693 TO 1736
Fairs Established in Glen-Urquhart. Erection of the Eegality of
Grant. Sir Ludovick Grant acquires Abriachan, Culnakirk,
and Clunemore. He makes over Urquhart to Brigadier Grant.
The Brigadier's Career. The Fifteen. The Brigadier on
the side of King George. The Men of Urquhart and Glen-
moriston support the Chevalier. Glengarry and Glenmoriston
in Argyll. Sheriffmuir. Keppocli's Eaid on Urquhart. The
Brigadier and the Jacobites of Urquhart. Attainder of Iain
a' Chragain. Invermoriston House Burnt, and Glenmoriston
Forfeited. The Forfeited Estates Commissioners and their
Difficulties. The Court of Sir Patrick Strachan. The Battle
of Glenshiel. The Commissioners' Factors. The Factors in
Glenmoriston. Patrick Grant joins Donald Murchison. The
Fight of Afch-nam-Muileach. General Wade. Fort-Augustus
Built. Wade's Eoads. Galley placed on Loch Ness. Glen-
moriston purchased for Iain a' Chragain. The Price and its
Application. Iain a' Chragain's Death. His Career and
Character .225

CHAPTER XIV

OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1719 TO 1746

Sir James Grant. The Forty-Five. The Three Alexanders of
Urquhart support Prince Charles. A Message of Welcome
to the Prince. Agitation and Threatenings. Jacobite
Recruits from Urquhart and Glenmoriston. Ludovick Grant's
Policy of Caution. The Prince's Letter to the Gentlemen of
Urquhart. His Cause espoused by the Minister. A Sabbath-
Day's Meeting in support of the Prince. The Factor's
Reports to Ludovick. Ludovick's Letters to the Factor.
Patrick Grant of Glenmoriston joins the Prince. Their Firet
Interview. Prestonpans. Colonel Macdonell's Demand.
Achmonie's Mission to Castle Grant. Ludovick's Message to
the Gentlemen of Urquhart. Macdonell in Urquhart. An
interrupted March. The Macdonalds and the Erasers in
Urquhart. The Conference of Tornashee. Doubts and Hesita-
tions. Corrimouy and Achmonie visit Ludovick. The Earl of
Cromartie, the Master of Lovat, and Macdonald of Barisdale
in the Parish. Achmonie's Undertaking to the Laird of
Grant. The Cause of the Prince prospers in the Parish.
The Factor in Despair. The Prince's arrival in Inverness.
New Recruits from Urquhart ...... 241



CHAPTER XV
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1746

The Battle of Falkirk. The Duke of Cumberland in Scotland.
Prince Charles at Inverness. Cumberland crosses the Spey.
The Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston summoned to join
the Prince. Culloden. Incidents of the Battle and Flight.
Alexander Grant's Exploits. Heroic Wives. Ludovick Grant
and his Eight Hundred in Urquhart. Rebel-Hunting. Pro-
tections promised, and the Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston
Surrender. Fears and Forebodings. Treachery. Despair
and Maledictions. Ludovick's Intercession and its Result.
Shewglie and his Son and the Minister in Tilbury Fort.
Shewglie's Death. Release of his Son and the Minister.
Banishment to Barbados. The Fate of the Exiles. Notices
of some who Returned. Donald Mackay. William Grant.- -
Donald Macmillan. Alexander Grant. Donald Grant.
Alexander Ferguson. Donald Ferguson .... 271

CHAPTER XVI
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH 1746 TO 1747

The Government's Treatment of Ludovick Grant. Glen-Urquhart
harried by the English Cavalry. The Blanket Eaid. Inver-
moriston House Burnt, and the Glenmoriston People
Plundered. Cumberland at Fort-Augustus. Atrocities in
Glenmoriston. A Eeign of Terror. The Story of Eoderick
Mackenzie. Cattle dealing between English Soldiers and
Southern Drovers. Gay Life in the English Camp. Horse-
Eacing Extraordinary. The Seven Men of Glenmoriston.
The Wanderings of Prince Charles. The Prince in Glen-
moriston. His Three Week's Life with the Seven Men. An
Oath of Secrecy and Fidelity. The Prince's Movements. His
Escape. His Appearance and Habits. Devotion of the Seven
Men. The English leave Fort- Augustus. Famine and
Pestilence in the Parish. The Use of Arms and the Wearing
of the Hghland Dress Prohibited. A Terrible Oath. Eesults
of Culloden. Close of the Olden Times . .291



CHAPTER XVII
THE CHUECH IN THE PARISH BEFORE THE REFORMATION

Introduction of Christianity. St Ninian and Ternan. The
Temple, or St Ninian's Chapel. The Story of Merchard.
His Church in Glenmoriston. Traditions concerning Him.
His wonderful Bell. Drostan, Patron Saint of Urquhart.
His Chaplainry and Croft. Eelapse of the People into
Paganism. St Columba's Mission. Marvellous deeds in the
district of Loch Ness. Opposition of the Druids. Columba
in Urquhart. Conversion of Emchat and Yirolec. Inver-
moriston Church. Columba's Well. St Adamnan. The
Church of Abriachan. The Mission of Curadan. The Church
of Corrimony. Gorman. The Churches of Lag an t-Seapail,
Achnahannet, Pitkerrald, Kilmichael, and Kilmore. The
Celtic Clergy and their Services. Fall of the Druids. Their
Eeligion and its Eemains. The Eomau Catholic Church
Established. Origin of Parishes and Church Endowments.
Erection of the Parish of Urquhart. The Parish Church and
its Property. The Chapels and their Crofts. The Chancellor
of Moray. The Clergy of the Church and Chapels. The
Eeformation. The Parish Priest turns Protestant. Loss of
the Church Lands in the Parish. The People Spiritually
Destitute 320

CHAPTER XVIII

THE CHURCH IN THE PARISH FROM THE REFORMATION
TO THE REVOLUTION

PAGE
The Church of the Reformation. John Knox's Superintendents.

Episcopacy. Presbytery Established. Scarcity of Preachers.
Exhorters and Readers. Mr James Farquharson, Exhorter
in Urquhart. The Parish under the Charge of Andrew
McPhail. John McAllan, first Protestant Minister. The
Rev. Alexander Grant. New Churches. Grant's Troubles
with the Church Courts. He resists the Covenant, but is
forced to Subscribe. The Rev. Duncan Macculloch. His
Want of Maintenance,, and Troublous Career. His Deposition.
A Six Years' Vacancy. Restoration of Episcopacy. Mac-
culloch Reinstated. A Presbyterial Visitation. Lamentable
state of the Parish. Macculloch's Resignation. How he
slew a Glenmoriston Man. Loose and unruly walking in
the Parish. Searching for a Minister. The Rev. James
Grant. His Presbyterial Trials. Induction Ceremonies.
Persecution of Roman Catholics. Papal statistics of the
Parish. The Rev. Robert Monro appointed Preacher in
Abertarff and Glenmoriston. His Difficulties, Privations,
and Irregularities. Lord Lovat's Midnight Marriage.
Presbyterial visitation of Urquhart. Peace and Prosperity.
The Elders. The Rev. Robert Gumming. Monro's Pro-
test. Prelacy in the Parish. Troubles in the Church. The
Revolution. Presbytery Re-Established 345

CHAPTER XIX

THE CHURCH IN THE PARISH FROM THE REVOLUTION
TO THE DISRUPTION

Episcopacy in the Parish. The Rev. Robert Cumming remains
Episcopalian, but retains the Living. Cumming and the
Presbyterian Clergy. The State of the Parish. Presbyterian
Missionaries. Presbytery Meetings in the Parish. The Rev.
William Gordon. A Missionary Preacher settled in Glen-
moriston. The Rev. John Grant. He favours Prince
Charles and is imprisoned in England. His Death and
Character. The Rev. James Grant. The Rev. James Fowler.
Troubles in the Parish. The Meetings of Duncan of
Buntait. The Factor interferes and mysteriously Dies.
The Rev. James Doune Smith. Charges of Immorality.
The People desert the Church. Presbyterial Enquiry.
Smith interdicts the Presbytery. The Disruption. The
Rise, Influence, and Character of the Men. State of Religion
in Glenmoriston. The Rev. Robert Monro. Royal Bounty

Missionaries. Glenmoriston erected into a Parish quoad
sacra. Churches and Chapels in Olden Times. Worship and
Church Service in the Past. Legends and Relics of the Saints.
Festival Days. Gaelic Liturgy. The Gaelic Bible. Gaelic
Tunes. The Sabbath in Olden Times. Sports and Pleasures.
- -Sunday Christenings and Penny Weddings. Lykewakes.
atroduction of Puritanism. Its Progress and Effects . . 370

CHAPTER XX
EDUCATION AND CULTURE IN THE PARISH

Education before the Reformation. The Parochial System.
Unsuccessful attempts to plant Schools in the Parish. The
First School. Charity Schools at Duldreggan, Milton, Pit-
kerrald, and Bunloit. The First Parish School. Subsequent
Agencies. The Education Act. Old Salaries. Old School
Books. Gaelic in Schools. Old Punishments. Cock-fighting
and other Sports. Urquhart Authors. James Grant of Corri-
mony. Charles Grant. Lord Glenelg. Sir Robert Grant.
James Grant. John Macmillan. Buchanan Macmillan,
King's Printer. Patrick Grant. James Grassie. Angus
Macdonald. William Grant Stewart. William Somerled
Macdonald. James Grant, Balnaglaic. Allan Sinclair.
The Bards of the Parish. Iain Mac Eobhainn Bhain. Ewen
Macdonald. Shewglie and his Daughter. Alasdair Mac Iain
Bhain. Iain Mac Dhughaill. John Grant. Archibald Grant.
Angus Macculloch. Lewis Cameron. Angus Macdonald.
William Mackay. Hugh Fraser. Survival of Bardism . 393

CHAPTER XXI
FOLK-LORE IN THE PARISH

Decay of Folk-lore. Decline of the Ceilidh. Satan in the Parish.
His Conflicts with the Men. The Death of the Factor.
Fair Ewen of the Goblin. Hags and Goblins. Cailleach &'
Chrathaich. Destruction of the Macmillans. Cailleach Allt-
an-Diinain. Death of Macdougalls and Macdonalds.
Cailleach Allt-Saigh. Cailleach Chragain-na-Caillich.
Donald Macrae's Adventure. Daibhidh and Mor of Corri-
Dho. Their Feud against the Men of Urquhart. Bocan na
Sleabhaich. The White Mare cf Corri-Dho. The Death of
Alasdair Cutach. The Fairies and their Haunts. Theft of
Mothers and Babes. Other Depredations. Fairy Love-
making and its Results. Gay Life in Fairy Knowes. The
Fairy Smith of Tornashee. The Witches of the Parish.
Their Pastimes and Pursuits. Divination. Dead Men and
Demon Cats. A Famous Seer.-The Evil Eye. Second Sight.
Sacrifices and Safeguards 417

CHAPTER XXII
INDUSTRIAL AND SOCIAL LIFE IN THE PARISH

Origin and History of Agriculture and Land-Ownership. Davachs
and other Divisions. Rise and Fall of Population. Sub-
Division of Holdings. The Occupiers of the Soil. Origin of
the Crofter. Leases. Agricultural Productions and Customs.
Ancient Trade in Cattle,, Skins, Wool, and Furs. Rents
and Services. Foundation of Lewistown and Milton.
Famines. Game Laws. An Ancient Royal Forest. Timber
Traffic. Trades. Old Industries. Copper Mine. Iron
Works. Lime Manufacture. Distaff and Spindle. Linen
and Woollen Factories. Introduction of Spinning Wheels.
Ale. An Ancient Brew-House. Whisky-Making. Modern
Breweries. Roads and Bridges. Traffic on Loch Ness.
Ancient Boats. Cromwell's Frigate. The Highland Galley.
Steamboats. Highland Hospitality. Inns. Samuel John-
son at Aonach. The Dwellings of the Past. Modern Improve-
ments. Law and Order. Sanctuaries. Baron Courts and
their Procedure. Curious Administrative Division of the
Parish. Church Courts. The Poor. Social Customs. Fights
and Feuds. Modern Changes. The Conclusion . . . 437



APPENDICES

APPENDIX A:

Description of Urquhart Castle 467

APPENDIX B :

I. Details of Spoil taken from Glenmoriston in October, 1544

II. Details of Spoil taken from Tenants in Glen-Urquhart in April and May, 1545 .471

APPENDIX C :

I. Lease by the Bishop of Moray to John Mackay and his

Wife, of Achmonie. 1554 479

II. Lease by the Laird of Grant to Donald Cumming of Dulshangie, of Meikle Pitkerrald. 1660 . . . .480

III. Articles of Agreement between James Grant, Esquire of Grant [afterwards Sir James Grant], and James Delias,

Mason at Garthkeen. 1770 . . . 482

APPENDIX D :

Charter by the Bishop of Moray to John Mackay and his

Wife and Son, of Achmonie. 1557 483

APPENDIX E :

Donald Donn 487

APPENDIX F :

Proceedings Brigadier Grant against Alexander Mac Uisdeau

Glass in Buntait and his Mother ..... 490

APPENDIX G :

Accompt Ludovick Colquhoun of Luss with the Publick for the Purchase Money of the Estate late of John Grant, late of Glenmoriston, attainted 463

APPENDIX H :

I. A List of the Persons in Urquhart who were Concerned in the Rebellion, Surrendered themselves Prisoners to Sr. Ludovick Grant, and were by him brought in to Inverness. 1746

II. A List of all the Men in Glenmoriston that Surrendered themselves to Sr. Ludovick Grant, May the 4th, and by him delivered to his Royall Highness the Duke of Cumberland, May the 5th, 1746

III. List of Arms Surrendered to Ludovick Grant at Balmacaan, May, 1746 498

APPENDIX I :

Report of the Cattle and other Effects taken by the Army from the Country of Urquhart in 1746 .... 499

APPENDIX J :

Extracts from Bishop Forbes" " Lyon in Mourning" . . 501

APPENDIX K:

The Seven Men of Glenmoriston 502

APPENDIX L :

Notices of the Principal Families of the Parish . . . 505

APPENDIX M :

Letters of Collation by the Bishop of Moray in favour of Sir John Donaldson to the Chaplainry of St Ninians. 1556 . 515

APPENDIX N :

Stipend of the Parish Minister at various periods . . . 518

APPENDIX O :

Selections from the Productions of the Bards .... 519

APPENDIX P :

Baron Court Records ......... 546

APPENDIX Q:

I. Abstract Accompt of the Bussiness done at the Manufactureing Station of Glenmoriston and Neighbourhood by me, Alexander Shaw, Undertaker for said Station, the year 1764 555

II. Account of the Distribution of Wheels and Eeels ordered by the Honourable Commissioners of Annexed Estates to the Inhabitants in the Neighbourhood of the Manufactureing Station of Glenmoriston, the year 1764 . . 556

APPENDIX R :

Extracts from the Drumnadrochit Inn Visitors' Book . . 557

APPENDIX S :

The Poor, and Fools

APPENDIX T :

Papers concerning the Marriage of an Urquhart Heiress in 1737

APPENDIX U :

The Urquhart Settlement in Nova Scotia ..... 570

APPENDIX V :

Urquhart and Glenmoriston Place-Names ..... 572



ILLUSTRATIONS
Urquhart Castle in the Olden Times .... Frontispiece

Urn and Bronze Blade found at Balnalick . . facing page 3

Facsimile of Letter by the Governor of the Castle to Edward I in 1297 facing page 20

The Bridge of the Leap 73

Mac Uian's Pool 75

Iain a' Chragain's Shield ........ 205

Iain a,' Chragain's Sword 209

Ruins of the Castle ....... facing page 211

The Urquhart Brooch 212

Patrick Grant, one of the Seven Men of Glenmoriston . . . 314

Ancient Trees at Site of Temple .... facing page 336

Ancient Sculptured Stones at Balmacaan . . facing page 338

Stone, with Cross Inscribed, from The Temple .... 385

The Glenmoriston Pillory 463

Ground Plan of the Castle facing page 467

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