his auction includes a fresh Motorcraft 2100, 1.08 venturis carburetor.  Properly set up for your specific application, jetted to your elevation and modded for your driving style and intended use.  The ones pictured in this auction are all prior kits I have sold through EBay, all installed by very happy customers.  The one you will receive with a "Buy It Now" bid will be freshly built and ready to roll. It will be media blasted, hot tanked and will look great. I have modified these carburetors to work best with the 258/4.2 in a non-emissions environment.

NOTE:  These particular kits are slightly different from my normal one in that they will eliminate ALL emissions components.  If you have an E-Test, buy one of my other kits please, as this one will not be for you.  This is one of my least expensive kits, but is also one of my best kits for a stock to slightly modified 4.2......  When installed, you will have 1 vacuum line for your PCV to your intake manifold and one vacuum line for your distributor to the carb.  That’s it folks!!!

What am I offering? 

I am offering the ultimate budget solution to end all headaches of the crappy-ass Carter BBD, 2bbl carb, piece of junk, garbage carbs.  This Motorcraft swap will work on all JEEP/AMC/EAGLE/Javelin/etc 258's w/ any 2 bbl carb set up.  Even if you have the 232, or a 1bbl intake, I can set one up special for you.  This upgrade will improve idle, response, starting, cold starting, acceleration, power and MPG.  This carb will not stutter and cut out like the Carters are known for.  If you can get fuel to it, it will run at almost any angle.  I can build you a carb best for wheelin' or for use as a daily driver, OR both.  I would probably not recommend the Non-Smog kit if you are trying to pass an emissions test, though I know of several that have passed through (Including one of my own)  If you want to retain the factory air cleaner, no worries, I cover how to adapt your factory air cleaner to the Motorcraft carburetor as well.

I have personally installed 100+ of these and have sold many, many more online just through various BBS's (I have recently surpassed the 10,000 mark on kits sold)  It is easy enough for an average person to install with average tools and average knowledge.  My included instructions are over 400MB (and growing) and are full of step-by-step instructions complete with digital pictures that will guide you along the way.

I will assist you in any way that I can for however long it takes you to get it done.  This is an afternoon project for the average Joe, AND...  If you are in the area of Colorado Springs, CO, I will do one better.  I will install the carb for you.  Details to be worked out on a case by case basis....  Usually runs around $50-$100 and takes a couple of hours.

What is included in the kit?

INCLUDED--Carburetor...  Fresh and ready.  Carb will be jetted correctly for your elevation and will have the proper power valve configuration for your ride.  It WILL be ready to bolt on.  (This carb runs 275 CFM , same as my 2150 1.08 version)

INCLUDED--Proper base plate adapter.  As you may know, this install requires a difficult to find (or make) adapter.  They are out there, but be careful, they are not all the same.  I have given up completely on using the Mr. Gasket and Trans-Dapt adapters.  They are pot cast pieces of junk and are usually warped and crack easily.  I have designed my own adapter.  It is C&C milled locally and is precision matched to the mounting hardware and the intake/carb.  You will not find a better adapter on the market.

INCLUDED--Proper fitting base gaskets for the install.

INCLUDED--Proper throttle linkage.  I offer a bracket that converts the rear pulling Motorcraft carb to a downward pulling carb.  Your Carter pulls down and my bracket will utilize your existing, factory linkage (Easiest to install).  I also offer a rear pull linkage that converts your Jeep to a rear-pulling throttle.  You pick which one you want, and I will build your setup accordingly. IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION YOU WILL NEED THE DOWNWARD PULLING THROTTLE LINKAGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  On some late model CJ's that have power brakes (large brake booster) you will have to use the down pull linkage as well as the brake booster will be in the way.  This is not an issue with YJ's.

INCLUDED--All hardware required to mount the new carb and adapter to your intake.

INCLUDED--INSTRUCTIONS INSTRUCTIONS INSTRUCTIONS I have searched long and hard for the best, most common sense information and have compiled very good Word and PDF documents covering everything you should need.  I update this almost daily I find new/better solutions or verbiage.  I will include the same instructions I use AND I will include my updates and problem work-arounds that I found to be pretty common.  (My home # is in there too) These instruction files are HUGE, and yes, easy to follow with step by step instructions and pictures.  The instructions are written for the average Joe and when printed, are over 60 pages by themselves.  They will take you through the complete process of removing the old carb. all the way through tuning the new one.

INCLUDED--Support.  Nothing more to say here.  I will support you in any way that I can. I learned my lessons the hard way and with that being said, I don't see any reason why anyone else should have to.  I will make this as easy as possible for both of us.  I will provide email support and phone support if needed.  Heck, bring it to me and I will show you 1st hand. 

INCLUDED--Throttle return spring bracket.  Pre-built and ready to install....  I just started including this due to popular request from buyers.  (See, I listen to your feedback emails)

OPTIONAL--New, in the box, SPECTRE 6” chrome air cleaner kit and filter.  I will include one for an additional $25.  Your factory air cleaner will NOT fit the new carb without modification.  I also include instructions on how to modify the factory air cleaner setup to fit if you should so desire to keep it. There will be no fitment problems w/ the intake, bowl vent or the brake booster with the air cleaner I use. I will also include an additional FRAM crank case filter when you purchase the air cleaner.  You will receive 2 filters for $25.  I also have the Short Ram intakes which are normally $318 from K&N.  I have mine made by SPECTRE and they are $100.  They come with a remore, washable filter, carb hat, hardware, etc.  See the pics….

OPTIONAL--As stated above, I will give you the choice between a downward pulling throttle linkage, or a rear-pull, direct linkage.  You choose.  No additional fee.  The downward-pulling linkage consists of a lever added onto the MC2100 converting it from a rear pull carburetor, to a downward pulling carburetor that will use your existing throttle linkage setup.  The rear-pull bracket allows a direct cable connection to the carb.  This will include a bolt on bracket and will allow you to eliminate even more "stuff" under the hood.  Both are straight forward installs and are covered in the instructions.  If you have an automatic transmission you MUST have the down pull linkage........  Manual transmissions can use either one.

NOTE:  1983-1986 CJ's with power brakes (Large brake booster) must also use the down pull linkage.  The brake booster is too large and will be in the way of the rear pulling linkage.

OPTIONAL--2 Choke options. (Well, actually 3) Again, this is a personal preference to most people.  The Motorcraft 2100 carburetor and the Carter BBD share a VERY similar choke housing.  To retain your Carter's original electric choke, you only need to remove it from the Carter, reverse the internal temperature coil, and screw it into the Motorcraft carb.  I will include all mounting hardware to do so.  Every setup is a little different, but making this swap requires no real skill. If you need an electric choke, I will include one for $22.  Just add it to the total cost or to the shipping and slip me a note.  It will be there, and it will be pre-installed.  If you prefer a manual choke conversion, add $15 to the total amount and I will include a new manual choke kit with cable and I will modify the carburetor for you.  You will just need to pick the one you are comfortable with.  

OPTIONAL--TFI distributor upgrade.  Some call it the Juice Box, this is everything you need for the distributor swap.  Cap, adapter, rotor, plug wires, coil, wire, instructions and mounting hardware.  This is a VERY simple upgrade and has been proven on and off-road to be one of the best.  It is an excellent mate for your new carb and will deliver a great amount of reliable spark  ($90).    I also have the HEI distributor for the older Jeeps (Pre-1979)  ask for details…

What I don't provide:

--Common sense.  'nuf said.  I will help you in any way that I can.  If you decide to pull out the blow torch and duct-tape after a 12 pack, I can't and won't hold myself responsible.  (But I'll still help you fix it when you sober up a bit...) 

Every install is different to some degree.  I provide the most basic, simple, complete kit as I can.  I include a basic modified throttle linkage that might need to be lengthened or shortened a bit to fit your needs.  All Jeeps are different.  ESPECIALLY once someone (not you of course) has decided that they were smarter than all of the million dollar/year techs that designed the vacuum/emissions systems in the 1st place and capped "stuff" off and randomly removed components.  I will teach you what needs to be there and what doesn't.  I will explain the difference between ported vac and manifold vac and help you determine where your vacuum and vapor canister lines need to go.  I will provide the info for the ever popular "NUTTER" bypass or "IGNITO" bypass to eliminate your computer feedback to/from the Carter.  Please remember that the 2100/2150 is a balls-out manual carb.  No computer required for operation. 

Just a side note, FORD produced this GREAT carb for over 25 years with very little change.  They put it on EVERYTHING, big or small, fast or slow.  AMC adopted a larger version of the 2100/2150 for their V-8's....  You can't beat it.

Any questions, please ask. 

Common questions I receive:

Q:  I have Jeep with 258 (or 232) and 1 barrel carb, would I have to change my intake? A: You can either purchase a used 2bbl manifold OR a 1bbl to 2bbl adapter plate. It's a pretty common plate. I sell the 1bbl to 2bbl adapter plates for $30.

Q:  will this carb fit 1990 YJ wrangler with a 4.2?A:  Yes it will fit a 90. There are a couple more steps for the 83-90 rigs, but I include all of the instructions and they are pretty easy to follow.  This will fit ALL 232/258's out there.  On 86-90 YJ’s I recommend the 2150 setup for the easiest install, though, the 2100 will work great.

Q:  Hey, I have a 89 258 already converted from the carter to a Webber but the Webber seems to be garbage as it has been fine tuned and still running very, very rich. As being my question is, is the conversion process easier for me?  I am a MA resident any one you sell in MA pass emissions? I am interested just need to find out some definite answers as I could spend another $150 and get a new Weber... what’s your view point? Thanks a lot... A:  MA emissions won’t be a problem. I sell Webber replacements almost as much as I sell Carter replacements. The Webbers are great carbs, but are difficult to tune and are often running WAY too rich. The MC 2100/2150 is VERY easy to tune even for a non-mechanical person. Even changing the jets is a 3 minute job with 1 screw driver. I pass strict CO emissions and have yet to hear of a kit that would not pass the local emissions test.  Performance wise, the Motorcraft is the best carb out there.  If I found a better one, I would be selling it and not the MC.

Q:  I like the sounds of your solution to my Carter Crap.. I have a 1977 CJ7, automatic, with power brakes.... I was originally going to go with a Offy intake and Holley, but was I was told I wouldn't have enough clearance because of the brake booster pushes the master cylinder out to far....I saw in one of your pictures (your j10) that it has a booster. Also, what does your linkage include? Thanks A:  Yes, this kit will clear the brake booster.  The linkage includes everything needed to install it. I can also set it up to convert your throttle to a rear pulling linkage and you will have a direct connection to the throttle (just like a Mustang)  You choose and I will set it up.  Both are easy to install.  I just did a 77 w/ automatic... Ran exceptionally well.  I also have 4bbl adapter plates if you have an Offy intake or a Clifford 4bbl intake.  No additional charge, but I need to know when you pay so I can include the proper adapter plate.

 

Q:  Can I keep my factory air cleaner setup?

 

A:  Yep… This will require some modification, but is not difficult and is covered in the instructions.

Q:  what is the difference in the two throttle cable set ups and which one would be better for an 87 4.2 with the Carter .A:  The rear pull is a direct pull cable to the carb. It replaces the whole stock throttle bracket/levers/pivots/etc. It requires you to remove the stock throttle bracket and cut one mount from it. I provide a bracket that mounts to the rear of the carb. The other method is a pivot bracket that uses your existing setup and adds one additional pull. The pivot bracket requires you to only position the throttle ball. I like the rear pull best (less stuff under the hood) but both work great.  Automatics MUST have the down pull.

 

 

NOTE 1:  I will still build custom setups if you want a strictly off road application or if you have special needs.  If you are watching this item, and it sells and I do not have another one listed, send me an email and I will notify you when I list more.  Sometimes, I have 3 or 4 ready at a time, sometimes I have 1.  SOMETIMES even when I have 3, I sell them all in a 6 hour period.  I will never stop building these kits.

 NOTE 2:  This kit is a HUGE improvement over the stock Carter setup. This is also a HUGE improvement over the Webber conversion.  I have replaced many Webbers with my kits and have had very satisfied customers.  I have also replaced a few aftermarket fuel injection setups for frustrated owners.   The ease of tuning this carb is worth the swap alone.  I get asked a lot of emission testing/legality questions on this conversion, and here is my answer:  I live in a very strict emissions tested region.  I have passed several personal Jeeps through the E-test and passed both a visual inspection and the blow test.  We are tested at idle and at 3000 RPM.  The Motorcraft passed where the carter failed.  I don't know emission laws for everyone, but I can say that I have sold conversion kits to almost every region in this country including over 100 kits to California residents, and haven't heard of anyone being forced to remove their setup.  A side note to that would be that I don't guarantee this to be a one stop shop, cure-all, fix everything wrong with your rig purchase.  It will be a great improvement, but if you have other electrical or mechanical problems, you need to fix those too.  I will include information on MANY other simple upgrades including the ever popular HEI distributor upgrade.  I highly recommend this upgrade as a companion to the carburetor conversion.  They compliment one another very well.

NOTE 3:  There are a couple other EBay sellers (all prior customers of mine) listing very similar kits.  With these kits, you will not receive the same adapter, hardware, quality of carburetor or support.  These carbs will not be properly jetted and tuned for your altitude/application and will not have the same modifications that I provide.  Check my Seller Feedback!!!!!!!!!

key word list: jeep carb carburetor MC Motor Craft 4.2 256 I-6 I6 performance scout autolite 2100 2150 2 barrel 2bbl 2bl 2V C.A.R.B. off road off-road offroad rock crawler rock-crawler custom manual standard automatic conversion webber weber red line redline 1.08 108 carter bbd holley