Here at RepRap Guru we wanted to give our customers a better DIY 3D printer experience. With that goal in mind we have spent countless hours developing a truly COMPLETE DIY Prusa i3 printer kit that doesn't require altering, drilling, soldering or cutting anything.. PERIOD!. If you find yourself having a hard time with your build you can call RepRap Guru Direct and speak to one of our several master engineers for FREE! Thats right FREE TECH SUPPORT! OUR competitors cant claim that.

This Listing is for a Complete Black DIY RepRap Guru Prusa i3 3D Printer. Assembly is Required.

** As we receive customer feedback we do make small alterations to the kit if we feel they improve the kits performance and stability, the kit you receive might reflect some of these slight changes and improvements.

Some of The Improvements:

  • All Plastic injected Molded Parts
  • Upgraded MK8/MK9 Makerbot style right handed spring tension drive gear
  • Larger wire hole openings and added access holes for LCD wires
  • All necessary wires have been pre-assembled and or soldered (Heat Bed & Extruder)
  • Longer fan and extruder motor wires, with the extra wire length it allows you to run your harness in a cleaner manner
  • We have added nylon mounting spacers for the Arduino/Ramps 1.4 boards for better air flow
  • Easier labeled Hardware and Rod's with number stickers
With our carefully thought out improvements you should be able to shave some serious time off your build!


This kit includes the following:

  • Complete Set of Black Injected Molded Plastic Parts. [Made in the USA]

  • Black Acrylic Frame [Made in the USA]

  • x12 LM8UU Linear Bearings (2 spares)

  • x2 623ZZ Bearings

  • 8mm Stainless Steal Threaded Rod (Pre-Cut) [Made in the USA]

  • 8mm Chromed Linear Rod for X, Y, Z (Pre-Cut) [Made in the USA]

  • 5mm Threaded Rod (Pre-Cut) [Made in the USA]

  • x1 Dual Power 12v/24v Heated Bed w/ Onboard 100K Thermistor and Pre-Soldered Wires [Assembled in the USA]

  • x1 Direct Drive Extruder with MK8/MK9 Right Handed Injection Molded Parts for 1.75mm ABS/PLA using a .4 Nozzle Hot End [Assembled in the USA]

  • 360W 12v 30A Power Supply

  • x5 NEMA 17 4.8kg/cm Stepper Motors

  • 2 Meters of GT2 Belt (Pre-Cut)

  • x2 20 Tooth Pulleys

  • x1 Ramps 1.4

  • x1 Arduino Mega 2560 R3 Clone

  • x5 A4988 Stepper Drivers (1 Extra)

  • x2 5mmx5mm Couplings

  • x3 Electronic End Stop Circuits w/ LED

  • x2 Belt Tensioners

  • x4 Threaded Bed Adjustment Knobs

  • x4 Bed Springs

  • All Required Nuts/Bolts for Assembly [Made in the USA]

  • Power Cable

  • x1 USB Cable

  • x1 213mmx200mmx3mm Borosilicate Glass [Made in the USA]


Features:

  • Impressive 8”x8”x7” Build Area

  • Able to print ABS, PLA and Many Other 1.75mm Filament Composites

  • Can run 110V or 220V (Comes With US Cord)

Items you will need:

  • Tools

  • Filament

  • Time

Build Guide and Firmware/Software:
** Please note the items included inside the below link are often updated to include new and updated information so please bookmark it for your records.

Other items you might be interested in buying with your kit:


Disclaimer:
This is a kit of components for assembly into a 3D Printer by the end user. Building and using the printer is potentially very dangerous as it involves electricity and high temperatures.
Building the printer will require a certain amount of physical dexterity, common sense and a thorough understanding of what you are doing. We have provided fully comprehensive build documentation to enable you to build your RepRap Guru 3D Printer Kit in a safe manner.
However ultimately we cannot be responsible for your health and safety whilst building or operating the printer, with that in mind be sure you are confident with what you are doing prior to commencing with building or buying. Read all of the manual to enable you to make an informed decision.
Building and operating involves electricity, so all necessary precautions should be taken and adhered to, the printer runs on 12V supplied by a certified power supply, so you shouldn't ever have to get involved with anything over 12V but bear in mind there can still be high currents involved and even at 12V they shouldn't be taken lightly. High temperatures are involved with 3D Printing, the Extrusion nozzle of the hot end runs at 230°C, the heated bed runs a 110°C and the molten plastic extruded will initially be at around 200°C, so special care and attention should be made when handling these parts of the printer during operation. We wouldn't recommend leaving your printer running unattended, or at least until you are confident to do so. We cannot be held responsible for any loss, damage, threat, hurt or other negligent result from either building or using the printer.


On Nov-25-16 at 11:42:52 PST, seller added the following information: