I'll try to keep this short, because realistically, I didn't spend the total of  an hour from start to finish. The materials that I used for this project are as  follows: on package of Doctor Ben's Industrial Weathering Pigment - fresh Rust,  one bottle Doctor Ben's Aged Driftwood, a short-bristled, soft, but stiff brush  (the brush in the photo is a Floquil brush that has been cut off short), an a  small container of water to wash out the brush (if I need it).

  Step 1:  I began with a basic resin casting (Pine Canyon Models) and  sprayed it with the least expensive can of flat black paint found at a local  home center. If it happens to be sunny outside, lay the casting in the sun to  warm up so that the paint will dry faster. Spray the bottom first & when the  bottom is dry, flip the casting over and spay the details from ALL sides. Apply  a second coat if when the first coat is dry & you can still see the white of the  casting. My question is why don't the casters add a little color to these  castings? It would make the finishing process much easier & we could see the  details much easier!

  Step  2:   Brush on the Doctor Ben’s Industrial Weathering Pigments with a  burnishing action. Just keep scrubbing the pigments into the various  cracks and crevasses, without being too neat about it. In this project,  to simplify the process, I just used the Doctor Ben’s Industrial  Weathering Pigment #1119 Fresh Rust; and you can see that it looks good.  If you use several of the various colors of Doctor Ben’s Pigments,  however, the diversity of the colors will give better details. You could  use some of the lighter brown colors for the wood, but for this project  I will color the objects with another technique (shown in Step 4 and  Step 5).

  Step  3:  I typically skip this next  step, but there are folks out there who are interested in how I  usually seal a finish. Now you may have heard of using ordinary hair  spray for attaching foliage to scale tree trunks. I go down to the local  Big Box store and purchase the least expensive "pump" hair spray that I  can find. These products are usually made up a alcohol and lacquer. I  will use this inexpensive hair spray as a sealer to activate the Doctor  Ben's Industrial Weathering Pigments adhesives and done, the pigments  are literally sealed to the casting. Now you will have to play with this  and not to worry, you can't get too much hair spray on the pigments.  But, if you get too much hair spray on the unfinished casting, you will  see a slight sheen such as the group of the seven wooden barrels in the  image to the left. See the slight sheen on the top of the bottom right  barrel top? yep, that what you get, and with a whisk of the brush and  some Doctor Ben's Industrial Weathering Pigment, it is gone. Like I  stated earlier, I rarely seal the Doctor Ben's Industrial Weathering  Pigments. When I demonstrate these products at hobby shows, folks are  amazed of the handling that some of the demonstration pieces get and how  weathered they remain.

  Step  4:   The process of applying the Doctor Ben’s Aged Driftwood can be found  here. So briefly, shake up the bottle of Doctor Ben’s Aged Driftwood for  just a second or two, depending upon how thick you want to stain the  parts. The Doctor Ben’s Aged Driftwood is quite concentrated, and can  get too thick if you use the same bottle for some time. If this happens  to you, just add a couple of teaspoons of rubbing alcohol to the bottle  and shake very well; allow it to settle and check. If it is still too  thick, repeat the process. Now use your trusty burnishing brush to apply  the Doctor Ben’s Aged Driftwood to the sides of the wooden details and  then the tops.

  Step  5:   So, here is the big secret: I have an article around here somewhere  about using Sharpie permanent markers for detailing brickwork and  coloring details. Yes, that's correct, and the colors are permanent, and  will not fade over time. For instance, I used a red marker to color the  soda machine and a yellow marker to color the gas pump. I also used more  markers to detail some of the wooden boxes and door, too.

Included with this Industrial Pigment Set set is our *original*  Doctor  Ben's  "How To #1: The  Art of Turning Toys into Models" booklet (a $3.75 value!). This booklet is for  novices and professional alike.

Now  you have the chance to learn what many thousands of other folks have learned  without having to pay a $7.00 admission fee to get in the door. Read on down to  see some of the information in this very valuable booklet!

Below are the thumbnails for the 27  colors in the Railroad Set #1311. Click on each of the images to see  better the item color and names.

  Finally,   it  is no secret, there are lots of copy-cats out there trying to capitalize  on our Doctor Ben's products, but really, do you actually have time to  play chemist? And nobody said that you have to have all 60 colors. Besides, by  using Doctor Ben's products the work is already done for you with  "contest proven results". Why would you settle for anything less! Second  best is still second place and if you are anything like me you'll want  your models to be winners every time!

These are the very same products that  we've used to build Fine Scale Miniatures (FSM), Master Creations,  Thomas A. Yorke, Builders In Scale, and many other craftsman kits for  our customers, and now you can have these same products, too! Quick and  easy, that's how we like to do it and just like what our motto says,