Are you ready
to do some weathering?
Using Doctor Ben's
Industrial Weathering Pigments® as a single component of the
Doctor Ben's Weathering Products®, the Industrial Weathering
Pigments are an even more powerful tool in creating a more
realistic model. Not a powder; and not a chalk, the Doctor
Ben's Industrial Weathering Pigments are easily applied using a
soft, but stiff, ordinary hobby brush. However, be careful, a
little bit goes a very long way! I've been using the Doctor
Ben's Industrial Weathering Pigments to tint Hydrocal for
years. Just a 1/4 teaspoon make a whole lot of difference when
tinting white Hydrocal to an earth tone color. Very cool!
To the left are
additional great Doctor Ben's products and as we get more
images we'll get them posted here as soon as possible! The
Doctor Ben's Weathering products work best in conjunction with
other Doctor Ben's Weathering Products as well as competitors'
products--hey, why not!
Remember, they're
not chalks, and they're not powders, but they ARE Industrial!
Using Doctor Ben's Industrial
Weathering Pigments®
I'll try to keep
this short, because realistically, I didn't spend the total of
an hour from start to finish. The materials that I used for this
project are as follows: on package of Doctor Ben's Industrial
Weathering Pigment - fresh Rust, one bottle Doctor Ben's Aged
Driftwood, a short-bristled, soft, but stiff brush (the brush in
the photo is a Floquil brush that has been cut off short), an
a small container of water to wash out the brush (if I need it).
Step 1:
I began with a basic resin casting
(Pine Canyon Models) and sprayed it with the least expensive can
of flat black paint found at a local home center. If it happens
to be sunny outside, lay the casting in the sun to warm up so
that the paint will dry faster. Spray the bottom first & when
the bottom is dry, flip the casting over and spay the details
from ALL sides. Apply a second coat if when the first coat is
dry & you can still see the white of the casting. My question
is why don't the casters add a little color to these castings?
It would make the finishing process much easier & we could see
the details much easier!
Step 2:
Brush on the Doctor Ben’s Industrial Weathering Pigments with a
burnishing action. Just keep scrubbing the pigments into the
various cracks and crevasses, without being too neat about it.
In this project, to simplify the process, I just used the
Doctor Ben’s Industrial Weathering Pigment #1119 Fresh Rust;
and you can see that it looks good. If you use several of the
various colors of Doctor Ben’s Pigments, however, the diversity
of the colors will give better details. You could use some of
the lighter brown colors for the wood, but for this project I
will color the objects with another technique (shown in Step 4
and Step 5).
Step 3: I
typically skip this next step, but there are folks out there
who are interested in how I
usually seal a finish. Now you may have heard of using ordinary
hair spray for attaching foliage to scale tree trunks. I go
down to the local Big Box store and purchase the least
expensive "pump" hair spray that I can find. These products are
usually made up a alcohol and lacquer. I will use this
inexpensive hair spray as a sealer to activate the Doctor Ben's
Industrial Weathering Pigments adhesives and done, the pigments
are literally sealed to the casting. Now you will have to play
with this and not to worry, you can't get too much hair spray
on the pigments. But, if you get too much hair spray on the
unfinished casting, you will see a slight sheen such as the
group of the seven wooden barrels in the image to the left. See
the slight sheen on the top of the bottom right barrel top?
yep, that what you get, and with a whisk of the brush and some
Doctor Ben's Industrial Weathering Pigment, it is gone. Like I
stated earlier, I rarely seal the Doctor Ben's Industrial
Weathering Pigments. When I demonstrate these products at hobby
shows, folks are amazed of the handling that some of the
demonstration pieces get and how weathered they remain.
Step
4:
The process of applying the Doctor Ben’s Aged Driftwood can be
found here. So briefly, shake up the bottle of Doctor Ben’s
Aged Driftwood for just a second or two, depending upon how
thick you want to stain the parts. The Doctor Ben’s Aged
Driftwood is quite concentrated, and can get too thick if you
use the same bottle for some time. If this happens to you, just
add a couple of teaspoons of rubbing alcohol to the bottle and
shake very well; allow it to settle and check. If it is still
too thick, repeat the process. Now use your trusty burnishing
brush to apply the Doctor Ben’s Aged Driftwood to the sides of
the wooden details and then the tops.
Step
5:
So, here is the big secret: I have an article around here
somewhere about using Sharpie permanent markers for detailing
brickwork and coloring details. Yes, that's correct, and the
colors are permanent, and will not fade over time. For
instance, I used a red marker to color the soda machine and a
yellow marker to color the gas pump. I also used more markers
to detail some of the wooden boxes and door, too.
Included with this Industrial
Pigment Set set is our *original* Doctor Ben's "How
To #1: The Art of Turning Toys into Models" booklet (a $3.75
value!). This booklet is for novices and professional alike.
Each year we attend numerous
hobby shows and we have some basic techniques that we share with
our visitor where folks can take our products home and begin
using them just like at the show-no experience necessary!
Now you have the chance to learn
what many thousands of other folks have learned without having
to pay a $7.00 admission fee to get in the door. Read on down
to see some of the information in this very valuable booklet!
Below are the thumbnails for the
27 colors in the Railroad Set #1311. Click on each of the
images to see better the item color and names.
Depending up the brand of
your monitor, the type of graphics card that you computer has,
the lighting in your room and a dozen other reasons, some of
these colors of the above images may look identical. We can
assure you that these colors are quite different. Watch for the
upcoming Doctor Ben's "How-To #2: Weathering & Painting with
Industrial Pigments”. Yes, I said *painting* which is something
that you can’t do with the other brands, either! And part of
this *new* booklet will introduce a brand new tool: The Doctor
Ben's "Pigment Palette" which enables the user to paint items
such as the sides of railroad tracks already installed one a
layout!
*Each of the eight containers
are measured as a 2 ounces by volume container. Each container
is about 3" in diameter and 1 3/8" tall.
Finally,
it
is no secret, there are lots of copy-cats out there trying to
capitalize on our Doctor Ben's products, but really, do you
actually have time to play chemist? And nobody said that you
have to have all 60
colors. Besides, by using Doctor Ben's products the work is
already done for you with "contest proven results". Why would
you settle for anything less! Second best is still second place
and if you are anything like me you'll want your models to be
winners every time!
These are the very same products
that we've used to build Fine Scale Miniatures (FSM), Master
Creations, Thomas A. Yorke, Builders In Scale, and many other
craftsman kits for our customers, and now you can have these
same products, too! Quick and easy, that's how we like to do it
and just like what our motto says,
We Turn Toys into Models! |