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PROFESSIONALLY SERVICED: A master French watchmaker has serviced on April 2015 the original calibre K880, 17 Jewels, high-quality Automatic Jaeger LeCoultre mechanism, carefully oiling, regulating, and timing the entire movement. It winds and sets smoothly and is keeping great accurate time.
This is a great opportunity for any and all vintage watch collectors to step up to a rare Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner in outstanding condition, original in every detail, with perfect untouched dial, signed logo crown, automatic movement K880, and find out what the mystique is all about...
This particular gentleman’s vintage Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner 1200 automatic, with rare monocoque case made of 10K gold filled, dates from 1960 and is in outstanding untouched condition. We would suspect that the piece was bought in celebration of an anniversary or special event and has perhaps been only worn, at very most, on a dozen occasions. The look of this piece couldn't be more representative of its year of production, and anyone with an eye for classic 20th century design will immediately fall in love with its very chic appearance. Its original untouched perfect dial is wonderfully elegant. This is a large watch, with rare monobloc gold filled case and high grade automatic movement calibre K880, that is noticeably more substantial than the majority of others of the same age. When handled, it has a very pleasing weighty feel that is suggestive of quality, even to a casual observer unfamiliar with vintage timepieces. It is a stunning example of the work of one of Switzerland's most highly respected houses from an era that is regarded by connoisseurs as having been a golden age for the luxury watch industry as a whole.
Jaeger LeCoultre is certainly one of the world’s most desirable watch brands, with current models being offered at phenomenal cost and its vintage output sought after world wide by an army of fanatical devotees. Jaeger LeCoultre movements are arguably the finest produced by any luxury Swiss manufacturer and are manufactured entirely “in house” at the company’s factory in the Vallee de Joux. Only a tiny handful of true “manufactures” exist (this term being the correct one used to describe a brand that is capable of making every individual component part in its movements) and these firms are enormously revered within the industry. Even the majority of the most famous Swiss luxury marques do not actually build their own calibres from scratch, instead purchasing raw movements from one of the major Swiss “ebauche” suppliers and adding their own, in house, complication modules as required.
DIAL : Even as full time dealers with a large network of contacts, we find it very difficult to source watches with very well preserved dials in sufficient quantities to satisfy our customers. The dial here is original to the watch, untouched, instantly eye-catching, and could be conservatively graded as mint condition. Fashion comes and goes, but this Jaeger LeCoultre is still the same classic looking watch that impresses and after all these years is still on the wrist of many watch lover today. Any vintage watch must have its original dial in order to be worth its maximum potential value. The presence of a so-called “restored” dial, meaning one on which the surface has been completely stripped and replaced with a new substitute, will render any watch undesirable and diminish its value at a stroke by typically 40%. When explaining this to new collectors, we often draw a parallel to the world of antique coins, where any evidence of polishing will instantly render an item virtually worthless. Restored dials on vintage timepieces don’t have quite as negative an impact, but they should be avoided wherever possible.
Even when examined under high magnification, the dial is all but free of even the tiniest marks, the majority from the same period having become at least slightly faded or discoloured, or have had their dials entirely replaced or refinished. For nearly twenty years now, connoisseurs of vintage wristwatches have sought out that rarest of breeds, the watch with an original dial in very nice or better condition and we would advise anyone buying for long term financial gain to do likewise. Watches that fall into this category, like the beautiful piece for sale here are very difficult to source today, but well worth waiting for in terms of their future potential for capital enhancement. As enthusiasm for vintage wristwatches increases, as it does year after year, the value of very well preserved survivors by brands like Jaeger LeCoultre is assured and they will unquestionably appreciate at a far faster rate than their more average siblings.
The dial is fully signed “LeCoultre” in black and has the famous “JL” emblem above this lettering in gold, this applied logo perfectly matching the sided baton markers for the hour positions. It is clear upon close examination that the watch has been a cherished possession of its former owner. “Automatic, Master Mariner” is discreetly signed beneath the centre point of the dial, with “SWISS” along its very bottom edge. The very elegant Dauphine shape hands are original and correct for this model, their gleaming gold surfaces matching those of the applied baton markers. Tarnished, scruffy hands will always have a negative effect on the overall appearance of a watch, but these are in virtually mint condition.
CROWN : This watch is fitted with its original correct "JL" signed winding crown. Notice how even the serrated edges of the winding crown here are crisp and well defined, telling us that this piece has spent most of its life locked in a safe for investment purpose.
MOVEMENT : -Serviced and timed in France on April 2015- As one would expect from any product of the Jaeger LeCoultre factory, the automatic calibre K880 movement is a sheer delight to examine. The K880 was introduced in 1959 and was the first of the firm’s movements to feature a centrally pivoted 360 degree rotor that wound in both directions. The K part of the calibre number was a reference to Kif Flektor, the form of shock protection mechanism used in this unit. Jaeger developed this calibre directly from its famous 493 unit that had been designed specifically at the request of two of the world’s most prestigious watch houses in 1951. Jaeger had first begun production of a self winding calibre, the 476, in 1947, but chose to create a “bumper” type oscillating hammer automatic calibre, rather than one with a bi-directional rotor. The company flirted with rotor design in 1951 with the superb calibre 493, this winding in only one direction, but Jaeger LeCoultre watches with this movement were only sold for a two year period and it wasn’t to be until 1959, when the model for sale here was released, that Jaeger LeCoultre automatics finally entered the modern age. Incidentally, a development of this calibre, the 888, is still manufactured by Jaeger LeCoultre today which is rather something of an indication of how significant and how brilliant engineered, these 880 and 881 (same as 880 but with date function) movements were.
There is a very interesting footnote to be added about the design of the K880/881, which is indicative of the incredible standard to which it was manufactured. Perhaps oddly in some eyes, unlike the other major Swiss top-tier manufacturers, Jaeger LeCoultre never offered a chronometer rated watch in any serious commercial quantities. Tiny numbers of these, literally a few hundred units, were occasionally submitted for independent accuracy testing at one of Switzerland’s Observatories for publicity purposes, but in general, the firm’s output was sold without external time trials. One of the most obvious characteristics of the K880 is that, almost uniquely on a movement of this grade, it has no mechanism for the fine adjustment of the index, this normally being required to minutely tune the unit’s running speed. Astonishingly, the reason for this omission was that the K880 was manufactured as standard to such fine tolerances that it would achieve chronometer rated accuracy as a production norm, without the need for any further adjustment.
The American publication “WatchTime” ran a test on the K881 ( Same as K880 but with the date function!) and the various other related Jaeger LeCoultre movements from the same era in its August 2003 edition (pages 88 to 91), concluding that this mechanism “embodies superlative expertise that emphasises skilful, precise craftsmanship and surface beauty”. Further mention is made that in its very slightly revised form, this same movement type was officially certified as a chronometer and sold in tiny quantities as the “Chronometre Geomatic”, a model that commands a huge price today on account of its scarcity.
Everything about this movement screams of the very highest possible quality, from the perfect Geneva waves decoration on the rotor and the bridge plates, to the fact that every individual screw head has been laboriously polished by hand to give it a mirror finish. As an aside, it’s worth mentioning that on watches of this level, the Geneva waves are actually polished into the movement surface with a rotating disk of boxwood, an operation that is only entrusted to the highest grade of Swiss watchmaker with a long service record (the reason being that this is one of the very last stages of movement dressing and a mistake at this point would damage the movement beyond repair and invalidate the many hours of hard work done by other craftsmen early in the production process).
Most attractively, the rotor has two large cut outs in it, replicating the “JL” emblem present on the dial. Additionally, the rotor is correctly signed “LeCoultre Co, Swiss, 17 Jewels”. Stamped close to the regulator is the individual serial number 1427774. This clearly dates this unit to 1960. The watch is, of course, guaranteed to be absolutely genuine and authentic, with no changed or non original parts whatsoever, but intriguingly, Jaeger LeCoultre models are perhaps among the least faked of all high grade Swiss watches. As stated earlier in the text, the watch has been fully serviced throughout its life and the condition of its movement is thoroughly in keeping with its nearly mint outer. There is not even the slightest discolouration or corrosion present anywhere on the movement and the watch works perfectly, having last been serviced and lubricated less than four months ago. It sounds excessive, but the fact is that the K880 is more of a piece of mechanical sculpture than simply a wristwatch movement and to not look any further than a skeletonised view of this calibre is to completely miss the point as to why it is such a gem.
The Jaeger LeCoultre Geomatic of 1962 to 1970, mentioned above in the context of the movement and one of the most sought after vintage models by this revered company, has a case and dial that are almost identical to the item here. Better still, the Geomatic contains a very slightly modified version of the K880 movement in this watch, given the calibre number K881G with the G standing for Geomatic. To buy a tidy vintage Jaeger LeCoultre Geomatic today, we would realistically have to spend at least usd 5000 and in truth, the piece for sale here is a very, very close second to its more famous brother.
One of the most satisfying aspects of these watches is the fact that they represent the absolute quality pinnacle of Swiss watch making. Today’s luxury watches sold in the High Street are built to infinitely lower standards and the only comparable products offered now, quite literally, cost many thousands of dollars even in the most basic forms.
CASE : The heavy 10K gold filled case has an indisputable elegance and gleams like that of a brand new watch with only the very tiniest of imperfections that can be seen under a jeweller’s loupe. It should be noted that this is large model with a total width of 37.10mm (and a drum like depth of a hair under 10mm, this extra thickness being required to accommodate the bulky winding rotor.), making it substantially wider than many vintage Jaeger LeCoultre watches.
Case construction is very typical of the period, with the case body being a complete unit that includes the case back. Or, to perhaps put it more simply, there is no separate, removable case back on this case. Instead, the body is a one piece, very deep, bowl-like structure into which the movement is fitted through the front. This arrangement has the great advantage that it completely eliminates the joint between case body and back, which has since time immemorial been a potential weak point for the ingress of moisture and dirt. One piece construction, often termed as monocoque, was very much the thing in the mid-1960s, with almost all the major Swiss brands offering several models built along these lines. It really stands as testimony to just how effective these one piece cases were that even today, forty or more years on, it is noticeable that movements contained in these housings are typically better preserved than those in more conventional cases with removable case backs.
The threaded waterproof 10K gold filled case is fully signed internally as "Cased and Timed in U.S.A. By LeCoultre, 14K Gold Filled" and the watch reference model: 499-894, and case serial number: 161553. On so many older watches, an incorrect case opening tool has been used at some time in the past, leaving scars to the case back that are both unsightly and detrimental to the value of the watch. In this instance, the watch has only ever been opened through the front with the correct tool, and is therefore in gleaming, unmolested condition. Externally, the case back is signed: "Master Mariner 1200, 10K Gold filled, Use LeCoultre wrench". This stamping is of full depth and has not been in the slightest bit smoothed by wear or excessive polishing.
STRAP : We have fitted this watch with a fine crocodile type leather grain strap, 18 mm wide, and gold tone pin buckle that, while not being Jaeger LeCoultre items, are perfectly in keeping with the theme and chic look of the watch. Both are in mint condition, having never been worn.
This is a superb example of the early 1960s output of one of the most collectible of all wristwatch brands. Its condition is excellent, and its exceptionally attractive mint original dial is one of the best that we have encountered in many years by this famous Le Sentier house. The movement present here is unquestionably among the best executed post-war automatics to be offered by any of the key Swiss houses and if properly looked after in the future, it should be running sweetly a century or more from now, just as many early pocket watches are today. We often think that one of the most compelling reasons to buy a high quality vintage watch by one of the hallowed makers is that, sensibly cared for in the future with routine servicing every three or four years, this will be a possession for life, rather than a disposable commodity that will serve a purpose for three or four years before expiring. It would be almost impossible for the lucky winner to ever lose a penny on this outstanding watch and if owned for several years, it will produce a tidy profit. Twenty years ago, Jaeger LeCoultre watches from the 1950s and '60s were already difficult to find and today, they have virtually dried up entirely. The simple fact of the matter is that, quite understandably, those collectors who do own these kind of expensive Master Mariner 1200 watches don't see any reason to part with them in the present rapidly rising market.
 MEASURES APPROX: * Please take care to consider the dimensions of the watch case given in millimeters (the watch industry standard) and inches. Draw the measurements on paper to help visualize the watch on your wrist as vintage men's watches from the 1910s to 1970s were made significantly smaller than contemporary watches. WIDTH WITH CROWN: 37.15 MM (1.46 INCHES) LENGTH: 42.40 MM (1.67 INCHES) WIDTH WITHOUT CROWN: 35 MM (1.38 INCHES) DEPTH: 10.00 MM (0.40 INCHES) LUGS: 18 MM (0.71 INCHES) BAND: 18 MM WIDE. 
Product Description | Brand |
Jaeger LeCoultre in 10K Gold filled
Master Mariner 1200, Automatic
Reference 499-894
Automatic, Cal.K880
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| Condition | Pre-owned in excellent original condition. |
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Gender |
Men's. |
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Case Material | 10K Gold filled. |
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Band Material |
New Crocodile type leather grain, white stitched, 18 mm. |
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Band Color |
Black. |
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| Dial |
Original French white dial, NEVER REFINISHED, in rare mint condition!
Signed "JL LeCoultre, Automatic, Master Mariner" and "SWISS" along its very bottom edge. |
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Movement Type
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Swiss Made hand wound Jaeger LeCoultre LEGENDARY High Grade Automatic Cal. K880, Signed "LeCoultre Co, Swiss, 17 Jewels, VXN". Serviced in France on April 2015.
Keeps accurate time. |
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Hands
Case Back
Glass |
The classic Dauphine shaped hands are in mint condition and original to the watch.
Monocoque case, made of 10K gold filled.
Clear, very nice condition. |
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Case Width | 37.10 mm with correct "JL" signed logo crown. |
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Case Length | 42.40 mm with the lugs. |
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Case Thickness | 10.00 mm with glass. |
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Crown |
Gold, correct "JL" signed logo crown. |
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Age |
1960. |
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Hand Indicators | Hour, Minute, second. |
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| Comments |
A very desirable and hard to find Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner with very sought after K880 high grade automatic movement, original untouched mint dial and signed logo crown. Recently serviced in France and keeping great accurate time. |
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| Other Info | No Box. No Papers.
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For those who are interested in the history of famous watchmakers, the Jaeger LeCoultre watch company is one of the oldest Swiss watchmakers. Antoine LeCoultre opened a small factory in Le Sentier in 1833 where current factory remains. LeCoultre quickly built a reputation for quality and precision, so much so that he became the leading supplier of movements to the watch making industry in Switzerland. In 1925 Antoine’s grandson, David, merged the company with that of Edmond Jaeger, which is when the current day company, Jaeger LeCoultre came into existence. It is one of the few Swiss companies still producing its own movements, cases, dials and bracelets. This gives the company total control over the quality and precision of its watches and is a contributory factor for it being one of the small number of elite watchmakers with a world wide reputation for quality and precision. Jaeger LeCoultre has been one of the most innovative watchmakers in the world, having produced a number of revolutionary inventions including the Atmos “Perpetual Motion Clock” (which operates by changes in air pressure) and the creation of the world’s smallest mechanical movement which weighed less than one gram. !!! NOTE that the JLC blackboard tag price and the white wooden box seen on some pictures aren't for sale at this time.  !!! Important : l'étiquette JLC visible sur les photos ainsi que le coffret de présentation en cuir blanc ne sont pas disponibles à la vente. "FINE PRINT ": PLEASE READ, UNDERSTAND, AND ACCEPT THE FOLLOWING PRIOR TO BIDDING: Please have funds available and be prepared to make immediate payment upon close of auction. Less than 5 feedbacks, please email us prior to bidding. Those who accept our policies always have a great eBay experience when doing business with us. All items carefully described to the best of our ability. Please ask all questions prior to bidding on this item. This is the "inspection" period just like a live auction. Please do not save questions untill the last minute as they may not be able to be answered in time. We usually respond to emails within 2 hours. A NOTE ABOUT GOLD CONTENT: Whenever a claim is made as to metal or karat purity, it has been verified by jeweler's hallmarks or tested to industry standards. We unconditionally guarantee the content stated in our descriptions. We will specify if an item is not solid gold. We never guarantee that any of the watches we sell are waterproof or water resistant unless the watch is "Brand New" and manufactured to be as such. Since we primarily sell pre-owned wristwatches, we have no way to be certain whether the watch has retained the original waterproofing or resistance it may have had when new.  SHIPPING INFORMATION: Items will be posted on receipt of cleared funds, INSURED TO COVER YOUR FULL PURCHASE PRICE AND SHIPPED INTERNATIONALLY WITH SIGNATURE REQUIRED AND TRACKING NUMBER. Please understand that we have no control over delays or costs once your watch is shipped due to your country's customs or laws. PAYMENT INFORMATION: Payment is due upon close of auction. We accept payment by paypal only. In accordance with eBay policy, payments not received in two days will initiate an unpaid item case through the Resolution Center. All watches have been thoroughly examined and authenticated by Roger, our French certified master-watchmaker. Pictures are of the actual item. About Us We specialize in the fine vintage wristwatch business for over almost three decades. We are based in Phoenix, USA, but also in Paris, France and in Moscow, Russia. We have commonly satisfied customers from all over the world, so please check our Ebay store ! Our watches are carefully inspected for their authenticity and good function. Due to some of our wristwatches age it is reasonable that some wear might be visible. When this occurs it will be noted in the object’s description and pictures. Nevertheless, if you have any questions on an item you are considering of purchasing please don’t hesitate to contact us. We strive for 5/5 star service : if you feel that it is any less, please contact us - we are here to help keep you completely satisfied.
Attention International Bidders: You may be responsible for additional customs fees, duties, etc, imposed by your country.
AUCTION TERMS: If you have any questions, please ask before bidding! We try our best to describe our merchandise as honestly and completely as we can, but it is your decision to bid or not. So PLEASE make sure you can live with the purchase "AS IS" before bidding! We do all we can to pack the items securely. We will cheerfully combine shipping and use the lightest best material to pack your items in.
!!! Few easy steps to keep your fine vintage watch in rude health: - When adjusting the hands of your watch, move them in a clockwise direction only. Counter-clockwise adjustments may damage the movement. - If you must adjust counter-clockwise make it for small adjustments only (i.e. for minutes, NOT hours). - Antique watches generally experience an error of up to 5 minutes a day. Any accuracy of +- 5 minutes is very good.- High altitude flights can be hard on watches due to extreme temperature changes. This can cause the oil viscosity to decrease (gum up) and prevent a watch from ticking (the balance moving freely etc.). It may need to be oiled when it arrives regardless of its recent servicing (if applicable). Although this is only a very slight possibility it can occasionally happen. Please bear in mind that you are buying a used watch and it will require service at some point in time. If you have any questions after reading the description or viewing the pictures please email me prior to bidding. !!! Please check out our Ebay Store for more hard to find Jaeger LeCoultre fine vintage watches ! |
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