Asian Mini Lathe 7" x 10",12 & 14", "Pulley/Belt 3:1 Reduction Power UpGrade, XL Upgrade Kit for 7x10, 7x12 and 7x14 mini lathes

-This kit fits machines that have ((8mm(That's Nominal .314" )) motor shaft) and ((10mm(That's Nominal .393" )) intermediate shaft, such as:

  • Harbor Freight 93212 Central Machinery 7x10 Mini Lathe
  • Harbor Freight 33684 Central Machinery 7x10 Mini Lathe
  • Bolton CQ9318 7x12 Mini Lathe
  • Cummins (Tools Now) 5278 7x12 Mini Lathe
  • Grizzly G8688 7x12 Mini Metal Lathe
  • Harbor Freight 93799 Central Machinery 7x12 Mini Lathe
  • Homier 03911 Speedway 7x12 Mini Bench Metal Lathe
  • Tormach 30689 7x12 Duality Lathe
  • Warco 3005 7x12 Mini Lathe (Imperial)
  • Warco 3004 7x12 Mini Lathe (Metric)
  • Micro-Mark 82500 MicroLux 7x12 Mini Lathe
  • Big Dog BD-0618Ax300 7x14 Mini Lathe
  • Clarke CLK-Bt1028 7x12 Mini Lathe.
  • SEE BELT ALIGNMENT TIPS BELOW:


    Fits Asian Mini Lathe 7" x 10",12",& 14", "Pulley/Belt Reduction Power UpGrade, Aluminum XL Pulleys & Belt, 3 to 1 Reduction instead of the OEM 1.82 to 1, 40% Power increase, Ideal for spinning those 4 & 5 Inch Chucks, “NOTE: This upgrade lowers Max RPM in Low Gear to Approx. 700 RPM, and 1600 RPM in High Gear.”

    Note: This Upgrade Kit fits machines with 8mm / 3mm Key, Motor Shafts and 10mm / 4mm Key, Intermediate Shafts that are retained by OD Snap Rings. (((!!! Keys and Snap Rings are NOT INCLUDED !!!))), there are (2) 4mm set screws on the Hub of the small pulley.
    ---------(NOTE: Photos 2 thru 12 are the Illustration of it's Installation, What's for sell is in Photo 1 )---------

    Note: This is an XL Pulley/Belt System, INDIVIDUAL COMPONENTS WILL NOT INTERCHANGE WITH THE OEM BELT/PULLEY SET-UP THE MINI LATHE COMES WITH STANDARD, XL is .200" pitch and the OEM belt is labeled 1.5 x 70, !!there is no such thing!!, the actual belt pitch is .1875" and is not an Industrial Standard Manufactured Timing Belt.

    Belt Alignment Tips:

    Brief Background, the belt reduction system on the Mini Lathe consist of a Timing belt a Dual Flanged Motor Pulley & ("Un-Flanged" Intermediate Timing Pulley and for Good Reason) Firstly only one pulley with dual flanges for Belt Guidance is require, if the intermediate pulley had Flanges you couldn’t determine proper Parallel tracking of the Belt, You Just Can’t Short Cut the Belt Tracking Alignment, the small pulley is chosen as the guidance pulley because there is Less Drag from belt edge contact than there would be with a Flanged Intermediate pulley, My kits don’t have Flanges on the Intermediate Pulleys, instead I try to show Folks really how easy the belt alignment is while Maintaining as much Power as Possible, and we all know how important that is for the Mini Lathe.

     

    I created these tips after so many people contacted me, asking how the heck do I align this?, the belt alignment is easy on Machines that have the rolling/pivoting motor mounts, so the mount I’m illustrating here is the Push/Pull Stud Type, First of all, one of the Biggest Errors people make is in not considering the Push Studs, they see that the Motor is Bolted in with Pull Studs and remove the Nuts to remove the Motor thinking that they will leave the Push Studs Locked in position and this will make the process EASY, !!! WRONG!!!, the Push Studs need to be Backed off Completely from contact with the Motor when you start your re- installation, Basically after you have your Pulleys installed and Belt in position you Hand tighten the Pull Stud Nuts with the Motor Level(Parallel to the Bed Frame) then Kiss the Push Studs by hand to the Motor,  Then tighten the top Push Stud with a wrench a Little, you’ll notice that the belt is starting to tighten, then tighten the Bottom Push Stud a little, turn the Spindle back and forth in Low Gear and check the belt Tracking, Is it running about center of the intermediate pulley?, If not and the belt is trying to drift Right toward the timing cover, “Your Motors’ Brush Side is Too Low” If the belt is trying to drift Left Toward the Headstock, “Your Motors’ Pulley side is Too Low”, That’s really all there is to it, just remember what the Push Studs are doing, they serve to tighten the tension of the Belt as well as tighten the Motor to the Bed Casting. I’ve included about (10 photos “3 thru 12”), one “Photo 9” Shows where my first try the Motor was Low on the Brush Side causing the belt to drift right during rotation, on my second try I got it near Perfect, also it’s not unusual & normal for a belt to track a half millimeter left in forward or the same to the right in Reverse. Also note if you look really hard at Photo 6(First Try) you can see the Motors Back end is slightly Low where as in Photo 11(Second Try) it's near Perfect Level. ------------------ Happy Machining, Thanks for looking, Questions and Comments are welcome.