I encourage you to read my ABOUT ME page by clicking HERE. You also might be interested in looking at my auctions that ended recently that did not sell, by clicking HERE.

SHIPPING  (How and when you’re gonna get it):

• Where possible I will try to combine multiple purchases into one shipment to save you on shipping costs.

• Items shipped after payment clearing MY bank.  Please note that this is not a full-time endeavor for me and I do have other responsibilities.  I always try to get these items shipped ASAP, but it might take a few days or perhaps as much as a WEEK OR TWO for me to get your item shipped out, depending upon many factors.  If you have a special situation and you want the item shipped ASAP, please arrange that with me BEFORE you bid or submit an offer for my acceptance.  Please don’t hold me responsible for the shipping/carrier’s efficiency.  I can only do what is in my control to get your treasure to you as soon as I possibly can.

• I do not charge any handling fees, nor do I charge for packing materials/supplies.  The charge that I list for "shipping" is based upon many years' (since 1997) experience of selling on eBay, and my policy is to quote a fixed price in order to keep it simple.  I generally ship items via USPS Priority Mail, but unless specifically mentioned in the listing then it would be my option to go for another method.  If I know that I'm sending it to you via Priority, then I'll probably indicate that in the listing.

PAYMENT  (You get the treasure, I get the moolah):

• Payments not received within 3 days from end of auction - buyer risks right to purchase and appropriate feedback.

BIDDING:

• Bidders with either NET negative feedback or a zero (0) rating must email me before bidding. I reserve the right to cancel your bid otherwise.

• Make sure you re-review the entire listing, including questions/answers, before placing your bid since the listing might have additional information added later which comes up at the very bottom of the listing.

CONTACT (Communication is important):

Some comments on Antique POLISH CANDLESTICKS:

• Experience:  I have been exposed to and have had an interest and attraction to antique Polish/Russian/European candlesticks for my entire life.  I do know something about them, and would like to share some of that with you.
• Condition:  The lightweight Warsaw Poland candlesticks are fragile.  If you drop one on it’s leg, it will probably bend.  When holding it in one hand to polish (clean), if you hold it with too strong of a grip, it can bend.  I am of the opinion that most twists/breaks that occur are caused by this.
• Imperfections/Damage:  Since they are so fragile, MANY of them that you see for sale will have some damage/imperfection – either a twist, a break, a bend, or a repair.  I REVEAL ANY/ALL IMPERFECTIONS on my items in the listings.  Unfortunately for the buyer, not every dealer does this.  I’m sure those sellers that don’t reveal this are not doing it intentionally, but rather from lack of experience/understanding and perception.  Perhaps they believe these twists/bends/breaks add to the beauty?  Whenever I purchase a pair I examine them up and down, inside and out, to assess the condition.  Also, since these candlesticks are quite ornate, sometimes the repair is difficult to spot.  Doe it really matter?  Well, that’s up to you.  But as I said, my intention is to reveal that information to you.
• One of the most common telltale sign of an imperfection from a bend/twist/repair is candlestick HEIGHT.  Ideally, the lightweight Polish candlesticks should be very very close in height and differ by no more than one-half an inch.  That difference could be attributed to slight bends in the legs, which is perfectly acceptable.  Any height difference more than that, you really have to question the condition.  So, be very observant of the pictures you’re viewing and compare the heights.
• Hallmarks/Markings:  Most antique lightweight Polish candlesticks were hallmarked.  Due to age and wear, it is not always easy to find the markings.  Sometimes they are actually in the bottom of the bobaches where the candles go, and they get worn out easily.  Once in awhile I come across a pair that I can’t find the markings and I am perplexed by that.  I do not have an answer for that.  Perhaps some day someone will enlighten me.
• Enhancements:  Sometimes people have turned their candlesticks into functional electric lamps.  Usually that entails drilling a hole down the center (into the top) and sometimes a hole on the base for a switch.  Look for those signs.  Does it detract from the beauty?  Lessen the value?  That is totally up to you.
• Enhancements to Repair:  Sometimes a lightweight candlestick is damaged in a center point and what they do is they remove the entire center point from BOTH candlesticks, and then resolder them together.  The end result is a candlestick that is missing some of its important original workmanship.  I WILL REVEAL THIS TO YOU in the listing if it has occurred.
• My Personal Opinion on Condition:  I really adore these candlesticks.  I guess if we ever have an electric outage I’ll have plenty of places for candles J Personally, I enjoy my antique metalware in its original as-is, dirty condition.  I’d rather my antique metalware have some original aged patina on it than look shiny and new.  Oftentimes I don’t even attempt to repair or bend something back into shape since it could actually cause more damage then help if it’s not done right.  My dad was an expert metalsmith, but unfortunately I don’t have his tools to do what he used to do.  Of course, everything I just said is an INDIVIDUAL preference.  You might like your metalware polished, and that’s fine with me.  All of these candlesticks can be polished to a bright shine, if you like.  Again – personal preference.