Please take note that the leading picture is not the model you are now getting. Look at picture  no. 10, 11, and 12 to get the new model. It works the same as as far as getting the bees from the tree, but I no longer incorporate the lever to work with the screen. Way too much work, hardware and time to make it that way. The screen is placed on now at the end of the process by itself. Where it was on from the beginning and the lever did all the settings., well now the two works separate.
       The bolt  on the board will allow you to place the box flush against it. As you can see you may have to close the sides with rags or even more boards.What you are buying here is a new, un-painted Beehive Nuc box for both raising bees and trapping bees. The feature here is that this box is also designed to rob  the queen and all the bees from a tree or building. This setup will allow you to rob the queen, the bees, and the honey from most trees, or buildings without having to cut down the tree or remove the wall. Once you have removed the queen and the bees then you can bring over a new hive to set in front of the tree so they can rob the honey out of it. So, with this , you can use it for only raising bees as a nuc box, or you can use this box to rob from the trees the nursery and fanner bees, or the queen and all the bees. One single robbed hive and honey should pay for this. Some trees may need some modification considering the size split in the tree the bees are in. A rule is the smaller the size split the easier this will be to place on the tree. The foundation attachment that comes with this will work with most trees with some  extra sealing with sponges or old cloths. Once you have the bees coming only out of the foundation board hole, then you can hook up the box.  The screen is used in two of the stages.
It will take 5 stages to complete once attached to the tree or building. The biggest split in a tree I have ran across was about 18 in. long and 3 to 6 in. wide. Easy steps hanging it  and easy leaving with it.There are two ways to take the bees. One by putting supers on it as they build up in your hive's single box (since the Queen is trapped in your box and can no longer lay eggs in the tree). The other is to keep taking them away by frames into other nuc boxes making sure you do not take the queen until you  have cleaned out all bees.  I prefer taking the frames with eggs in them along with the nursery and fanner bees until you have gotten all the bees out, then it is honey robing time. I am sure of the method because I have had the success with it. The slider bar allows you to set the trap from the outside without going into the box if you do not want too. It allows (1) for just taking field bees, (2)Just taking house keepers, (3)Taking both and leaving it from there. Or (4) a few maneuvers will  get all the bees even the queen. Step one is engaging the slider to have all access in and out of the tree of all bees coming and going. First by bringing in a brood frame with eggs. Checking in a few hours to see the house keepers over (And Possible queen, but unlikely this soon). If the queen is over that soon (Unlikely) then you can slide the bar to put the queen excluder on the hole. This will make sure the queen will not get back in the tree If the box is too full you will need to take some out on the frame you brought leaving the queen to stay. You will need to replace the brood frame with another. You will also note the date and wait 22 days to insure all eggs and larvae has hatched in the tree. Then you can slide the bar all the way in and  close all contact to the tree leaving a route for any field bees to still come out the screen tunnel , but can only return to the box.
     What forces the bees over is that when you get your first house keepers over, Check for queen, but not likely so quick that she will be there, you then slide bar all the way in causing the bees in the box not to be able to go back and forth, Only the field bees will leave out but can only come back in the box in one day you will have more than you need if you just want a starter amount. They are loaded with their honey, pollen etc. and will have to build and pack inside of your box. Three days latter you will have a queen cell and worked cone from the tree bees. Since you will be having to removes bees every so often anyway because  of the migrations as this continues, then I take the  bees on the brood frame out and replace it with a new brood frame. This time I want all stages of brood and specifically those capped and ready to hatch that day , or just a couple days away at the most. I still want eggs as well. I leave the tree open for all the bees to re adjust for what they have gone through. Some will go back into the tree, but now there is work already out there in the box  "done by them". The queen likes to lay eggs in "fresh cleaned" cells. That is why the capped bees are needed to be there and hatching out. This could be happening within 4 days all together, and this is when she is to come over. Wait about two more days and if she is not over close off the tree again and it will get  worked again just like the first time. When all the field bees can not take their supply back into the tree they will again treat this as  their  new hive, will again attempt a queen cell etc. But mainly have more of their own work in the box.Wait three days(This cause the bees in the tree to suffer some) and you will have an over crowded box, Open it up to the tree again, there will be much more work now done in your box. This is where the queen is likely to come over and even have an extended stay laying eggs. I have not had to go the second round on this  so far, she has laid eggs on the first cycle.
Full instructions and phone number will be provided.
    You will receive all the hardware needed to complete the nuc box. Shipping and handling is estimated as of now. These have to be shipped separately so no discount if you are buying more than one. This weighs right at 15 lbs. It will average $28.00 and higher to some locations. Please email me for questions.