You are now admiring some of my custom made USN flight jackets. In this case a late 1940's and early model 55J14 G-1 flight jacket by Aviators Clothing Co. that I can build in sizes 36 through 48 for you to suit. Please take the time to let me explain what I know about this particular jacket.
According to John Chapman and Andrew Swatland (two vintage flight jacket guru's & who both researched Aero) this same company had it's roots in the renowned WW-2 era & A-2 jacket maker Aero Leather Clothing Co. of Beacon New York. Soon after WW-2 Aero reorganized to form Aviators Clothing Co. and was awarded their one and only single intermediate weight USN leather flight jacket contract in 1949. Now a beyond rare flight jacket from the first redesigned series of USN jackets immediately following WW-2.
Presumably this 55J14 series and first model G-1 jacket was let once the stock pile of WW-2 era flight jackets were used up. These early G-1's were the direct result of an improved or redesign of the just earlier M-422, M-422A & most specifically three (Arnoff, L.W. Foster and Bogen & Tenenbaum) individual late War AN model jackets. Ultimately culminating into a better fitting jacket for its intended use over those fore mentioned or just earlier WW-2 era model designed flight jackets.
This Aviators Clothing jacket is truly a between the Wars mil spec made jacket, issued prior to the Korean War. Made during a time when naval aviation had been diminished to pre WW-2 levels. By 1950 the number of active duty aviators were at an all time low. Exactly why by in large the USN fought the Korean War by calling back up those WW-2 reserve aviators.
Likewise, this particular make jacket was not truly mass produced like earlier WW-2 era jackets or post 1950 model jackets. As a between the Wars pre Korean War era flight jacket this Aviators Clothing Co. jacket is arguably from one of the all time lowest volume contracts ever let by the USN post WW-2. As a result an original Aviators Clothing Co made 55J14 model G-1 is seldom if ever seen come available.
In fact more than likely less Aviators Clothing jackets were made than the sum from the four 1940 through 1941 limited contracts from all the (prewar) combined M-422 (1st model leather USN flight jacket) series jackets complete. A statement I intend to back up with my next visit to the National Archives in D.C.
Over a fourteen year period I've been fortunate enough to have sourced five of these beyond rare jackets. Each differently sized as a Small (size 36, 38), Medium (size 40 Regular & size 40 Long) and Large (size 44). All were dissected and then reverse engineered to allow me to more accurately reproduce the original pattern for this Aviators Clothing Co. jacket offered here.
Nearly all those original Aviators Clothing Co. jackets I accumulated & dissected to derive my patterns were found to be infected with red rot in their hide. A common malady inherent to the 55J14 model G-2 and includes this particular make jacket. In fact to this day I have yet to have encountered a single original Aviators Clothing Co G-1 jacket that was not somehow adversely affected by this leather malady. That same problematic red rot is now quickly rendering those already exceeding rare original Aviators Clothing jackets extinct.
Unfortunately, that damage found in each of my originals precluded the possibility of doing any restoration work. However & in each case there was still enough remaining to accurately duplicate (allowing me to get a one to one translation) my now excellent and most accurate Aviators Clothing Co. jacket's remarkable original pattern.
A period picture of an Aviators Clothing Co 55J14 G-1 jacket being worn can be seen in the last descriptive image. This remarkable picture was taken in 1950 or 1951 off the coast of Korea during the Korean War. That naval aviator is seen wearing his Aviators Clothing Co. G-1 jacket as a member of VF-874 and flew the F4-U Corsair in support of UN troops off of the USS Bonhomme Richard (CV-31). A great example of a USN aviator from back in the day who was issued and wore this exact same make Aviators Clothing Co G-1 flight jacket offered here as one of my reproductions.
The changes implemented to create this 55J14 model jacket made them a better flight jacket. That is verses the WW-2 type. Among those changes I found that this Aviators Clothing design has many notable differences that really make this particular jacket's design visually stand apart from most all other early G-1 jackets.
The 55J14 model G-1 was designed to have a slightly shorter body length as compared to WW-2 flight jackets and more conducive for being worn in the sitting position. In addition fewer 90 degree angles. Thereby slightly changing the overall look as compared to earlier models.
The look of this jacket is especially well defined from the rear with an hour glass shaped curve to it's action back panel's leading edge. A more noticeable difference and again not seen utilized by any other like and earlier AN-J-3A or AN-6552 models (Arnoff and Bogen & Tanenbaum) with the single exception being the W&G 35805 (as seen here item # 115165026070) and closest designed back panel from a late WW-2 era jacket maker. Most notably each individual maker had their own take on any & all panel designs, sizing and configurations for each particular individual panel. Thereby making this Aviators Clothing Co. jacket among the most unique as compared to all other USN flight jacket designs.
When compared to all other G-1's the most remarkable design implemented by Aviators Clothing Co. jacket makers is in regards to how their front and back panels are of both almost equal length or symmetrical to their positioning at the side seams. In addition, the side seams are situated directly underneath the sleeves. Combined with incorporating a unique and altogether superior sleeve gusset to I crease mobility. A design up & until this time was completely unique to this make jacket. Furthermore and compared to other fore mentioned makers who utilized a close in design jacket. All of which allowed for an increased overall function and appeal.
A truly note worthy and readily visual difference with this particular maker's design as compared to other makes is the additional width of it' s back verses the front panels and how it's sleeves are incorporated into the pleated (action) back panel through the side seam. In addition, an increase to the overall sleeve hole size as compared to other USN flight jacket makers with this particular design. To include the side seam placement which created an advantage to this design by adding much in the way of mobility to this particular flight jacket. Beyond a doubt, for it's time and beyond, this jacket's overall innovative designs created one of the most free moving G-1's ever made and as a result an absolute pleasure to wear.
This Aviators Clothing Co. jacket is in fact more blousy than most all other G-1 jackets I've ever encountered. In part created by it's good front pocket spread. Thereby lends it's self to a classy look and sets it apart from other makes of 55J14 model jackets. To include those WW-2 era AN model jackets that came before which at first glance utilized this close to the same unique more free moving back panel design was implemented. Thus a first of it's kind & an attribute that immediately peaked my interest.
In the end, the 55J14 jacket's overall design created a trend setting G-1 look which was accentuated by the addition of a well defined drop to the front panel as compared to any other USN jacket made to date. That drop was made by lowering it's front panel as it moves forward & away from the side seams and towards the leather extension tab where it terminates at the zipper connection point. This particular design change creates a wedge of unsupported leather directly underneath the pockets. In fact that increase of area is so profound that the pockets must be set parallel to the zipper track as the means of maintaining continuity. Therein the difference found on earlier models that kept their pockets closer to 90 degrees to both the waist knit seam and zipper track. This marked change ultimately creates a well defined angular fold to the front panel's leather between the zipper track and immediately forward of the pocket which greatly contributes to it's blousy look
All of which can be seen in my Aviators Clothing Co reproduction examples (size 40 & 42 seen shown in the descriptive images) to include that jacket worn on the original Korean War era picture seen in that last attachment. To include my size 44 original Aviators Clothing Co. jacket seen in the second to the last image. A look not found as well defined as compared to any earlier model USN flight jackets. All of which greatly enhances this jacket's unique style over most all others.
The last mention able difference concerns this Aviators Clothing Co. jacket's sleeve design. All of which is innovative and yet for the most part completely hidden from view. Much like all USN flight jackets this particular jacket maker has a completely unique gusseted sleeve assembly by design. However in this case it's gusset design was carried one step further because of it's more triangular in shape verses the normally implemented tear drop shape. In fact this jacket's entire sleeve/gusset assembly design is unlike any USN type sleeve set up I've seen to date. Combined with an enlarged sleeve hole all resulted in an increase in mobility over any and all others.
My build examples of this reproduction Aviators Clothing G-1 seen in the descriptive images were done using a naturally grainy vegetable tanned goat hide of a superior quality. Exactly what you would expect for your jacket. I have several different hides to choose from. All created specifically for my builds. Note, in the second to the last image is a comparison picture of my all original size 44 Aviators Clothing Co. G-1 with a suggested grainy hide. Most of my hides were sourced out of Italy with a minimum order. So I have plenty of this same seal brown colored 1.00 mm and 1.1 mm thick goat hide available.
Much unlike 100% chrome tanned hides which is now seen used on more modern USN type jackets. Once well worn, the vegetable tanned type of hide to be used to create your jacket & offered here will develop patina. Thus adding even more character and grain with wear.
Your proposed jacket's mouton will come from a same era vintage garment. Carefully selected by me and then expertly attached. Thus better correctly recreating that just right look and like no other.
The rayon lining material that will be used for your build was sourced out of the UK. This proposed high end lining is the same type originally used on early USN type flight jackets. That sourced lining material to be used is the absolute thickest and correctly colored rayon I have found available in the correct shades of brown.
Much like all of the USN jackets that I reproduce I utilize the correct USN font. To facilitate I had this particular font CAD duplicated. Likewise the USN font for this maker and not unlike all the USN flight jacket makers is unique to this particular make and model.
Both the size 40 & 42 seen in the descriptive images came equipped with a correct era NOS blackened brass Conmar zipper assemblies. Unless specified your build would come with a Japanese made reproduction blackened brass zip chain to which I attached a correct Conmar female connection point and slider to aid in longevity. As seen with the descriptive images.
As seen originally, your Aviators Clothing Co. reproduction jacket will be stitched using 100% nylon thread. In addition, come equipped with correct buttons. Again, unique to this same era 55J14 jacket.
The knits are 100% wool and the exact match to those originals. I had these knits special made. Furthermore and with regards to the knits and since those exact type originally used were unique (correct 55J14 knits are otherwise not available). As the cuffs are specially configured to match that same style seen on those originals.
Please go here eBay item # 115324302205 & see those provided descriptive knit images which includes comparison pix of one of my untouched original (size 40) Aviators Clothing 55J14 G-1. To include additional comparison pix of each of my completely original 55J14 model jackets that were produced for the USN from within my collection. All of which originally used this exact same type knits I had duplicated for this particular build.
To further the authenticity of this build there a a couple of additional features that will be found on my jackets. To include main & size labels originally found on this same model 55J14 that I have had duplicated.
Recently, I retired my vintage Keyhole Buttonhole macine. Going forward all of the buttonhole work for my jackets will be done using my brand new modern machine. Capable of duplicating buttholes as originally used back in the day by these USN jacket builders. As seen used to create their pocket flaps and throat latches for this particular model USN flight jacket.
Should you want a new build there will be a waiting period. At the stated price point this jacket can be built in size 36 through 48 as needed. Most notably larger size jackets can be built but not at his offered price point. .
I'm enthusiastic about all things vintage jacket. I collect them, wear them, build them, refurbish them, research them and they are a favorite topic of conversation. Please feel free to contact me to discuss.
Cheers, Dave Sheeley