For a proposed build you are now admiring one of my custom renditions of a late WW-2 by W&G. From the USN's N288s-35805 AN-J-3A and one and only intermediate weight flight jacket made using horsehide. This jacket is one of the more truly unique USN flight jackets. Let me tell you all about it.
Prior to and throughout WW-2 W&G enjoyed a long association with building leather flight jackets for the USN. That said, this particular jacket from the N288s-35805 contract was delivered to the USN in 1946. Judging by the limited number I have seen of this same model jacket tells me it comes from one of the more limited volume contracts. This same model jacket also represented W&G's dead last USN leather flight jacket contract. Notwithstanding, with this final contract they chose to alter their pattern, upgraded their earlier design and began using nylon thread throughout.
That original design which were all done using goathide began in 1940 and spanned their M-422, M-422A and also utilized throughout all AN contracts save one. In the end, with this N288s-35805 contract only the sleeve assembly, pockets, throat latch and interfacing were left unchanged. To derive this jacket's pattern all other panels from their earlier original design were either modified, altered or changed out completely.
The changes implemented reconfigured the side seams or where the front and back panels connect.This change moved that connecting point closer to the center of the underarm. In addition the entire back panel was reconfigured. Thereby the leading edge of the action back panel was reshaped to have an hour glass configuration verses a straight line. As a result of these design changes they increased mobility, comfort and style as compared to their earlier design.
Another unique feature regarding this contract is related to their choice of knits. This particular contract represents one of the few USN flight jacket made that utilized red colored knits from the factory. On the other hand, I have seen one other original from this same contract done using seal brown knits. To that end, should red knits not suit you, either red or brown colored knits are correct for this build.
The horse hide I am using for this build varies between 1.0 and 1.1 mm in thickness. All acquired from Italy and is vegetable tanned. Although not particularly stiff it will require some break in. Which can be attributed to being slight more dense as compared to goat and the usual hide used for all other like USN leather intermediate flight jackets.
Likewise, all of my reproductions for this particular build follow all that same original construction techniques as seen on my original N288s-35805 jacket. To include being stitched in it's entirety using both the correct color & diameter nylon thread. Notably, this contract utilized a nice looking contrasting thread throughout.
Your proposed jacket's mouton will come from a same era vintage garment. Carefully selected by me. Thus better correctly recreating the look of those original jackets. That exact color to be used is optional. Most notably, that example seen in the descriptive images was faded by me and an upgrade. That now golden mouton began dark brown in color and took the better part of an entire Summer season to achieve that look.
The rayon lining material that will be used for your build was sourced out of the UK. The same type of lining and color originally used on USN type WW-2 flight jackets. That sourced material to be used is the absolute thickest and correctly colored rayon for this build I have ever encountered and available in the correct shades of brown.
Please note the last image seen in the descriptive images. That is an image of my original horse hide W&G AN-J-3A with a same horse hide example I use for this particular build. In addition, one of the two original jackets I used to derived this pattern. These model jackets utilized a unique dull red 100% wool knits. All the knits I use for my jacket builds were done to my specifications here within the USA.
At the suggested price point your proposed jacket build is priced to come with a correct era brass or blackened brass late War Talon zip and correct two different size diameter buttons.Exactly as used on the original jacket.
However, should you choose not to use an original WW-2 era Talon zipper assembly a reproduction type zipper can be substituted. In that event a price adjustment can be arranged. Currently, I've got a modern reasonable facsimile that can be substituted.
Much like all of the USN jackets that I reproduce I utilize the correct USN font. To facilitate I had this particular font CAD duplicated. Likewise the USN font for this maker and not unlike all the USN flight jacket makers is completely unique to this particular make and model.
Recently retired my vintage Reece 101 keyhole button hole machine. Going forward all the pocket flaps and throat latches required for this particular build will be done with my brand new machine. My new macine is more than capable of doing the utmost superior work. I've included an example of what my new machine can do with this same horse hide.
For an upgrade to this build I can double the lining. On my personal jackets I always chose to double the lining on all my jackets within my personal collection! Note, these USN jackets generally wear from the inside out. Most notably from the back side of the lining rubbing against the suede side of the leather, along the mouton collar & always the first thing to go on a jacket. Thus doubling the lining it greatly extends the life of one of these jackets.
There will be a waiting period for this build. At the stated price point this jacket can be built in Regular sizes 36 though 48 as needed.
Please contact me David Sheeley if you are interested in seeing some more additional pix. Or pix from my original horsehide N288s-35805 AN-J-3A jackets. Both reverse engineered to derive my pattern for this build.
I'm an avid vintage jacket collector and jacket restorer. Feel free to contact me at your at your earliest convenience to discuss a build.
Please look through my other jacket build options available.