METHOD B
Alternatively, the sensor can be registered to your bike's ECU by a dealer if you are NOT able to give me the existing ID. I will give you a new ID on the test report slip that will be with the sensor so that it can be given to the KDS operator (dealer) to program into the ECU and it will be hand written on the sensor for future reference. The sensor ID can be registered to the ECU before, during or some time after tyre fitting.
And if you buy a pair ensure you know which one went into which wheel F & R.
I have registered these to my own 1400GTR using the existing ID and using KDS just as a dealer does and they function perfectly. I spent many months of trial and error/$ to find a cheaper alternative to the costly Kaw sensor.
HELPFUL HINT
Next time you have the tyre replaced show these pix to the tyre fitter so s/he knows what's inside, OR BETTER STILL - unscrew the nut and allow the sensor to drop inside the tyre out of harm's way. Take care not to lose the washer under the nut and the thicker metal washer and rubber seal on the inside.
The valve stem is slightly longer than the new genuine Kaw sensors, which you sometimes need to use a flexi-hose thru the hub or right angle adapter on anyway to inflate, but I'll even include a 135 degree valve fitting with each sale to make it easy when on the road. DO NOT leave this adapter fitted while the bike is in motion.
When purchasing, let me know your preference of Method A or B.
The same process is available for North American bikes operating on 315MHz if you wish - just ask me.
So says a happy customer: I've just fitted a pair of these sensors today along with new tyres and they work a treat. The workshop coded them in without a drama. They were less than half the price. Money well spent. No messing about with sealed sensors, soldering batteries.