Before cutting out, please read these instructions and study the decal sheet carefully to determine cut-lines.

The methods described below are for mature modellers and unsuitable for children.

If you have long thumb nails, trim them short before working with ALPs decals. Surface printed film-ink lifts off when manipulated by fingernails!

Specific Guidance.

1. These are generic decals, meaning they are not designed for any specific model or kit but should generally fit all makes.  The decals may therefore not fit your model precisely.    

General Guidance.

Pre-varnish: To avoid trapped air beneath any water-slide decal and the resulting unsightly sheen this imparts to your model after decals dry, before commencing, first apply a light coat of high gloss acrylic varnish to your model's surface and leave to dry hard.

The decals have been printed on full page film using an ALPs printer. This means that decals should be closely trimmed to remove surplus surrounding film before immersing in water.

I use a combination of a scalpel + 'decent' small thin-bladed sharp scissors for cutting out decals. (Course or blunt scissors can leave rough edges on the backing paper/film, which can result in decal 'collapse and death' when removing them from the saturated backing paper.) If you prefer to use a craft knife and rule, to avoid damaging and scratching the surface decal ink, first make a smooth ruler using 1mm to 2mm thick plastic card.  Cut a 25mm to 30mm wide strip, approx 150mm to 200mm long and then lightly sand to smoothly chamfer all edges.

Use 'warm' water to soften water-slide decals. Only soak one decal at a time, for between 10 to 15 seconds depending on water temperature. If the decal is not completely mobile after 15 seconds, to avoid the risk of 'floating off', remove decal from water and lay it backing-paper down on a dampened sheet of good quality kitchen paper until the decal is fully mobile.  Warning: Do not try to force decal off!  Unless the backing paper is saturated and the film adhesive fully softened, decals can collapse!

For that professional printed-on appearance, especially on 3D printed Shapeways’ or if your model has deep paneling or engraving, use a decal softener such as Micro-set. Apply the Micro-set to the model's surface where the decal is to be placed and then carefully position the decal. After a few moments, carefully lay a small folded square of good quality damp kitchen towel onto the decal and then apply increasing fingertip pressure to 'meld' the softened decal into the model's surface detail.

Our carrier film is thin and flexible but durable, allowing each decal to be manipulated many times when positioning.  But avoid using your fingers!  Use a small soft sable art brush to transfer the decal from the water-bath and then use this (or a wooden tooth-pick) to 'nudge' each decal into position. Work quickly when using decal solvents!  if you are unhappy with the decal's position, 'wiggle' your sable paint brush under the surface, to lift off the decal and then reposition.

Where it is necessary to wrap the decal around, for example, the leading edge of a wing or gun barrel, apply additional washes of Micro-set to the decal area being wrapped. Allow to soak for a few minutes and then reapply pressure with damp kitchen towel. Repeat as necessary until you are satisfied.  Alternatively, apply a drop of Micro-sol to the gun barrel, quickly apply decal and leave it to meld to the surface and fully dry.

To avoid any confusion, using a DVD permanent marker, I number the blue Micro-set bottle and cap with a large # 1 and the red Micro-sol bottle and cap with # 2. (Micro-Clear I mark with # 3.)

To further enhance your decal's finished appearance, allow to dry on the model for not less than 20 to 30 minutes and then using a soft art brush, apply a quick generous wash of Micro-sol to each decal's surface. The decals may wrinkle but do not touch them! Wrinkles smooth out naturally while the decals slowly meld to the model's surface. Test the use of Micro-sol on a spare decal or the sheet's logo before starting!

When you are finally finished all decal work, to protect the full-film decal ink (and yield a realistic finish!) it is essential to apply a thin coat(s) of 'acrylic' mat varnish or other suitable clear-coat.

Small white decals can be difficult to see against pale blue backing paper.  To overcome this, buy a new black magic marker pen with broad felt tip nib. Hold nib firmly against backing paper and move slowly allowing the ink to penetrate the backing paper.  This does not damage the decal film but highlights the decals.  Try under a small section of decal to begin with.