If you need more than one or two kits, please see my other listing where you can order five or more kits at better pricing, which you can find by putting this item number into the Ebay search:

124879064619



These kits include a free web link to a repair manual that shows how the pump is disassembled and put back together again.


Do you have an espresso machine or similar that uses an Ulka E5  series pump?  
Did it stop making good crema,  flow slow down or stop completely?
If you've determined it's the pump and the pump is still makes a humming/buzzing sound,
and there is no water leaking from the pump, then many times these pumps can be easily repaired.  They are very easy to disassemble.  Sometimes it's just a piece of debris stuck inside.  But the most common failures are:

1 - The O-ring on the piston wears out over time so that pressure leaks by and it can't develop the  full pressure needed to make espresso.

2 - The small plastic ball that functions as one of the valves inside wears out, so that it becomes so small it won't function to seal or it gets so small it gets stuck inside the spring instead of riding on top of it.  

3 - The mushroom shaped valve in the other end of the pump wears out, though this problem is less common..

4 - The O-ring that's between the pump and piping it connects to wears out and leaks, water is dripping out from that external connection.


I have a rebuild kit that gives you:

one piston O-ring  

one new ball for the piston end

one new ball that can be used as a substitute for the mushroom shaped valve 
in the other end of the pump, if that's worn out.

one O-ring that fits the pipe connection at the output end of the pump, which most machines use, eg Saeco Espresso Classico machines.  Other machines may not need it, depends on how they connect to the pump.  When you have the pump disconnected,
this should be replaced so it won't leak when reassembled.

Four parts total.  The O-Rings are Buna Nitrile, the balls are Delrin material.  Some people are replacing these balls with glass, which I advise against.  Glass is hard, much harder than the brass inside the pump that the glass will be slamming into 60 times a second.  Instead of the ball wearing, you'll have the brass pump seat wearing away.  Your original ball likely lasted a long time, this replacement will too.

Important! The picture of the pump is for identification only.  You get the four parts, not the pump.  The pump is sold in several models, with brass or plastic end piece, different voltages, etc.  All use the same o-rings and ball.

To disassemble,  take the  two screws out and the pump slides out of the solenoid.  Then it's just a twist lock that holds the two halves of the pump together.  You press inward from both ends, while turning to unlock it.  The locking part is clearly visible.  Take it apart slowly, pay attention to the order of the pieces, lay it out in series on a counter.  In the output end of the pump where the threads are, inside you will see a plastic retainer.  You just need a pair of tweezers or very small needle nose pliers to gently pull on it, while unscrewing it counter-clockwise.  The retainer will come out and behind it is a spring and the mushroom valve.

Check for the above problems, see if there is any debris.  The little O-ring on the piston must fit snugly, if it slides easily or can be wobbled around on the piston, it's worn out.  That seal has to stand up to over 150 PSI to make espresso.

I also include a website link that shows the pump taken apart, the order the parts go back together as well as other tips on fixing the pump.  So if you forgot how it goes together, no worries.

Parts are located in NJ, if you order by about noon EST I usually have it out the same
day via USPS first class mail in a letter size envelope, otherwise it ships next day.  I ship Saturdays too. Delivery is typically 2 to 4 days in US, 7 to 14 days international.

Check my feedback from the many customers who have bought these and successfully restored their pumps.