Here we have two rare OQO Model 01’s complete with rebuilt batteries both working on and off the mains.

What is included:

2 x Model 01 - finer details below.

2 x Octopus cables (FireWire,power,usb,lan,vga)

2 x VGA adapters

2x OQO original PSU’s

3x Spare CMOS batteries

2x CF to 1.8 IDE

1x 1.8IDE to flat ribbon connector

2x Cases one marked OQO and the Other PDair

2x Rebuilt batteries (working)

Only one device has the original stylus.

There is an HP pen that uses the same magnetic tip which works fine for the device with the missing stylus.

**Note since listing one of the cases seems to have deteriorated and stuck to the battery, it will still be included but I guess this is an age thing**

All buttons on the keyboard are tested working on both devices.

Function (FN) and F2 boots to the system BIOS to use other F keys it’s FN and the number.

The flat terminal connectors from the original batteries I’ve left in the box in case you want to rebuild the batteries again later using these.

Now the negatives and finer details - there is a lot to share so please read carefully.

The machines do power up and run Windows XP, however they are prone to overheating (this is an original issue with the OQO due to the CPU and small fan / heatsink) the fans do spin up but you have to be careful where you place your fingers not to cover the small grill.

The batteries whilst they have been replaced are not in anyway guaranteed and as such are limited liability in using them. Be aware batteries can overheat and are a potential fire risk. It is accepted by the buyer any risk please don’t leave them unattended while charging as these are modified not original cells inside.

One of the units came to me with the small gears missing therefore to space the screen I used some small screws. If these are removed the screen mechanism can pull the screen cable out and you’ll get no image - the cable is an absolute pain to replace.

Secondly push the screen back too far (due to no gears) then the screen goes off. So it has to be no higher than the line on top of the keyboard. This can make opening it a little less smooth than the one with the correct gear however by adding those small screws as spacers it allowed the device to be restored to working order, it came to me as a dead unit.

I replaced the CMOS batteries in both a few years ago. The batteries I’ve included are the same age however they are unused, to replace the batteries (CMOS) is a full tear down and not for the faint of heart especially reattaching the screen cable is pretty fiddly and not something to do if you don’t need to.

The machines do overheat and stall/freeze at times. When this occurs you have to hard power them off (holding down the power button). I did add new thermal paste to each CPU however that is now a few years old so may need doing again.

To change the thermal cpu paste, remove the battery, unscrew the 3 external case screws, remove the two right screws on the metal block with the red wire across it. Peel back the brass tape and lift the WiFi card and unplug the red cable to the speaker, lift the red wire off the metal block. Unscrew the right speaker then lift the metal block (heatsink) upwards. There is a 4 pin connector for the fan. Clean off the thermal paste with a little alcohol and then dry. Apply paste to the cpu and then put it back together again being careful with the red cable when plugging back the network card and reattaching the speaker cable.

Note removing the back panel also gives access to the hard disk / SSD be careful not to trap anything and leave the blue bumper in place.

While the wifi network appears to connect I’ve not been able to get a browser to connect however this could be my router being too new / fast for them. WiFi is detected and connects. I tested both octopus cables (I honestly don’t know if this is the right name but when I bought they were described this way) they work fully however I haven’t tested FireWire (I assume they work but I have no FireWire devices)

One of the units came to me with a dead hard disk, so I installed a zif SSD via an adapter which uses a ribbon connectors then a ribbon to 1.8ide connector. It’s not pretty but it works (I left an old Royal Mail calling card below it to prevent anything shorting out as there are exposed metal on the zif SSD. There’s not a lot of movement in the machine but leave the blue rubber from the original 1.8ide drive to keep things snug. If you want to replace it with a 1.8ide drive you simply unplug the connector and place a 1.8ide drive in the blue bumper. However the zif SSD is likely more performant. I can’t recall if I replaced both but I’m not taking the second machine apart again.

One unit is missing a screw that holds the back on the device it however is not causing any issues.

It is quite a rarity to have all the equipment and cables and vga adapters with two rebuilt batteries and two functioning units! I put this together buying parts from different places and they are only getting rarer to find.

The batteries seem to charge fine and I ran both machines off the mains for over 30minutes each at the time of listing and they still held further charge. I did put them to charge once more afterwards.

If you decide to use a CF adapter as included note that XP won’t see the disk as a hard drive and therefore won’t allow disk caching. It is fine in earlier versions of Windows but XP detects it as an external device. There maybe ways round it but would suggest to use an zif SSD (such as an iPod SSD) as I have should you want to change to SSD or the SSD I’ve included. The various connectors and components came from eBay / Ali express for the SSD.

I’ve tried to be fully open and honest with all I can but if you have questions do ask.