2004 Human Bloodbowl 5th Edition Citadel Pro Painted Team Fantasy Football Sport. Designed by Mark Bedford and painted by Mark Abbott.

This painted 5th edition team consists of 16 miniatures of the set BUT there are only 15 different miniatures as one of them is duplicated. I don't know why this is. The original set consisted of 10 Blitzers, 4 Catchers and 2 throwers as per what it called them in the catalogue but realistically there were only 4 Blitzers in the set as sold by GW. That's if you look at the Blitzers being the players with two bars on their helms. The players are the 5th Edition Games Workshop Citadel metal miniatures. All the fifth edition figures would show 2004 on the slotta (if you could see them), but came out in May 2005. They were shown in the GW 2005 Specialist games catalogue. The 2004 Specialist games catalogue showed the 3rd edition which just doesn't do it for me, a bit ho hum. I'm unsure if I prefer this set to the prior 2nd edition set. I usually always have a penchant for the earlier models, but this set has 16 different miniatures, and all in different poses. Various Bloodbowl teams out there, especially the later ones have the same poses with slight differences. This set is really different and stands out from all the others due to it. Looking at the UK GW 2005 Specialist games catalogue they've got a stack of Blitzers as well. Two on the first page and then a further eight on the second page? In total the UK catalogue shows 10 Blitzers (a bit of an overkill there), 4 Catchers, 2 Throwers and also the sideline staff of the referee and a Cheerleader. This cannot be right, and I do feel that there is a catalogue error, as it names two different figures as Blitzer 1 and two as Blitzer 2. Initially I thought that perhaps they should have been labelled as Runners or Linesman, but they have a grill on their helms and it's the Blitzers that usually have this facial protection. 

Looking at the US 2005 to 06 Specialist games and classic range catalogue, it shows all the second page Blitzers as Linemen so I'd guess an error in the UK printing. This then brings it more in line with the proper team lineup which the latest competition rules show as 0 to 16 Linesman, along with 4 Blitzers, 4 Catchers, and 2 Throwers. I do like the way that someone has thought about this team though, as the Throwers and Catchers do not have a grill across the face, as realistically to play well on the field they would need full vision to see the ball easily and wouldn't be in the thick of it as much, in theory! The Throwers and Catchers also appear more lightly armoured for speed on the pitch. None in the catalogue are labelled as Linemen, but Linemen are needed as the latest competition rules show 0 to 16 Linesman, along with 4 Blitzers, 4 Catchers, and 2 Throwers. So the 10 Blitzers catalogued is a bit of an overkill. The Humans also get an Ogre on the team, and they go very well with the Ogres that were released earlier in 2002, as they have spiked shoulder pads.

Humans are seen as a very flexible, jack of all trades with average player skills. They are not the fastest, toughest hardest team, but can switch plays very easily. A good team to start playing the game with, as you don't need to carry out complex plays and tactics, which are needed with some of the harder to play teams. Famous Human teams are the Albion Wanderers from the Isle of Albion, Altdorf Acolytes who play in the Griswell Memorial Stadium, Bad Bay Hackers, Bright Crusaders (AFC West), Creeveland Crescents (AFC North) shown on the Hoshi Komi card (I'm sure someone is taking the mick out of a  language barrier here), Middenheim Marauders from the city state of Middenheim, Middenland, Paravon Penetrators and The Reikland Reavers from Altdorf (NFC West home stadium the Altdorf Oldbowl).

This listing also includes a brand new cardboard KRQ one quarter (1/4) KRU sized box for protecting the painted gaming miniatures. It contains three foam layers. 2 x M4H sized layers and the foam top sheet. The Kaiser Rushforth KR storage boxes are good Archive quality cardboard and their motto soft foam for figures, hard cases for soft foam is very apt

It's always difficult to state how good someone's paintwork is, so I've taken the best pictures that I can. Pro Painted (meaning professionally painted) is a term that is overused on E-Bay. A professional painter is someone that makes a living doing it. So that doesn't mean that they have to do it well, as a painting service could churn out a huge amount of airbrush sprayed paintjobs, such as some army painters out there. I'm not saying that people working for that painting service or studio do not have talent for figure painting, just that they have to paint to what the market wants, or what the individual customer wants to pay for. That may well be mass pre-painted armies. Different people are happy with different standards, and a lot of it is in the eye of the person that perceives the artisans finished painted miniature. Some people are happy with a very basic paintjob be it paint brushed or airbrushed. I would use the term Pro painted for a level of skilled paintwork that I would not put the item in paint stripper, as the artists paintjob is just too good for that. At a certain level of quality it passes a pivotal balancing scale point, that it is unlikely someone else will take the time, effort and have the skill or patience to paint that model to a higher standard. An artist is someone that produces an item that is aesthetic, to them or others. Painted miniatures that are above the level that I'd strip back cover a wide field. A well known standard is Games Workshop's Golden Demon. There are three levels, Bronze, Silver and Gold, but even that can come down to peoples perceptions of art, as some years Golden Daemon can be surpassed by the prior years, due to the level of that years entrants, and what is considered artistic at the time. Fashion changes what is considered art, and it may come down to what is popular at the time.

Many different painting techniques can be used for figure painting, from simple ones for shading such as drybrushing, highlighting, washes and any weathering. Also certain advanced painting techniques such as Non Metallic Metal (NMM) or the layering and feathering blending techniques, using a wet palette. Toning, outlining and edging can add substantial time to a project as can any little details on the miniature to add individual character. Various quality paints can be used, either enamels or the more popular acrylic mediums, as well as different formulations of inks and varnishes. When you buy a painted miniature, be it a studio painted commissioned piece, exactly how you specified it, or something that just happens to be what you want, you are paying for three things. The materials used (be it the miniature itself or just the paint, inks and basing materials), the painters skill and most costly, their time to complete the project. I think people see a pre painted miniature and think, "hmmnnn, that's a bit of money," but possibly they only see the cost to actually buy the miniature itself (which is another add on cost) rather than all the hours that went in to create it, from start to finish of the project. The invested time in getting that figure to that high standard is it's inherent value, but the real value for some is in the enjoyment of using it in gameplay, or having it admired on the shelf.

Personally I see a good part of the unseen cost going into the preparation of a gaming miniature. I can spend nearly an hour filing a 28mm figure and washing off any oils from my hands ready for spraying on the undercoat. For metal miniatures you have to remove flash, file off the mould lines and remove any runoffs that crop up in the moulding process. Plus, if it's multiple parts, there is the drilling and pinning all the separate pieces. To drill and pin multiple parts for assembly can take hours on larger miniatures. Then there's use of any filler needed for gaps or damage to moulds such as voids or breaks. For plastic it's easier to glue parts together but there's still removing it from the sprue, scraping any mould lines off, positioning and filling gaps. Any further sculpting or conversion work can add many hours to a project. There are artists out there speed painting miniatures to an acceptable standard on their commissioned work. I can't speed paint, as I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and it can take me 8 to 10 hours to paint a single 28mm miniature, plus if you really start putting nice detail on the base, then that adds to the time taken. As with anything in life, the longer you spend on something, the better it will turn out. All those hours for any project cost money, so you only have to look at what you would earn per hour, and start to add it all up. How much is your time worth?

I have to add these are nice condition gaming pieces. I believe that they have been painted with Citadel paints and then a Citadel wash has been applied over. The artist has chosen well on the colours used, I think blue and red go well together but the white does have a dirtied effect.

I do note that mould lines can be seen on some of the miniatures just so you are aware of what they are buying.  If you are unhappy on receipt, then there will be no issue on them being returned, as per E-Bay guidelines. They have a matt coat of varnish on them, I am unclear if they have a gloss coat underneath that for additional protection. You may wish to spray them with a satin coat just to be sure. I have added Base weight beads to each miniature, which are Lead. If you don't know what I mean, they can be seen here:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=142075639364&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT#ht_3063wt_918

These add additional weight to them and they remain in place easier, if the board is knocked. I have also finished off each base with a type of black felt effect finish, rather like you would see on the base of chess gaming pieces. I've taken a picture of this as well. These can attract dust if placed on a dusty shelf but when the pieces are laid down during gameplay, due to player knockdown, they look a lot nicer underneath than looking at the slotta, filler or glue used.

A larger size here:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=142022043505&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT#ht_2390wt_918

IF YOU BUY PAINTED MINIATURES PLEASE BE AWARE THAT PAINT FADES IN SUNLIGHT. THIS CAN OCCUR OVER A PROLONGED TIME AND CAN GO UNNOTICED UNTIL IT IS TOO LATE. I PERSONALLY FEEL THAT INK WASHES, ANY MANUFACTURER'S INKS, ARE NOWHERE NEAR AS GOOD AT RETAINING THEIR COLOUR AS PAINT IS. IF KEPT AWAY FROM SUNLIGHT A PAINTED MINIATURE WILL LAST A  LIFETIME, BUT IF DISPLAYED IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT (EVEN BEHIND GLASS) FOR PROLONGED PERIODS THEN THE ULTRAVIOLET RAYS (UV) WILL AFFECT THE PAINTED COLOURS OVER TIME AND INKS (PERHAPS IN ONLY A FEW MONTHS) WILL JUST FADE AWAY EVEN QUICKER IN COMPARISON. IF YOU ARE TO DISPLAY THEM SOMEWHERE, DON'T ACCIDENTALLY RUIN THEM OVER TIME. IF YOU DO USE A CABINET (TO KEEP DUST OFF AS IT CAN GET IN ALL THE DETAILING) THEN HAVE IT IN A SHADED CORNER UNDER UNNATURAL LIGHT. THE BEST WAY IS TO KEEP THEM SAFE IN A FOAM STORAGE CASE SUCH AS A KAISER RUSHFORTH (KR) MULTICASE.

SHOP LINK:  Hygienic Porridge Miniature Emporium  Thanks for looking.

I only post to the invoice address. Please read postage, packaging, returns and payment details prior to bidding. Item is in good condition, unless otherwise stated. There may be residual paint on it, all miniatures have been washed to remove any residual chemical paint stripper, but I advise washing in soapy water with a toothbrush prior to painting, due to handling. I'm a collector, and honest seller, with excellent feedback. If there is an issue, then please contact to discuss, prior to leaving poor feedback. 

WARNING. This is not a children's toy. It is a collectable for adults and is not recommended for young children under the age of 14 years old. Use of the product is at the user’s own risk, who by purchasing accepts responsibility from the point of receipt. CHOKING HAZARD, may contain small parts. Please be aware that the items, and the packaging that they are received in, are a choking hazard and may restrict breathing. They may pose a DANGER OF SUFFOCATION so please either store or dispose of packaging carefully. Do not ingest and keep away from small children. Items received may contain Lead and other metals, do not place in the mouth or swallow as it may be harmful if eaten or chewed. Wash your hands after handling and keep away from foodstuffs. Use of gloves is advisable in handling, especially if you have allergies to the product. Items and parts sold may have sharp points, edges or a cutting blade, be aware and avoid puncture injury to the eyes. Store carefully as items may be a slip, trip or fall hazard.