Miniatures may be Lead or White metal, some parts may be plastic or resin. Items will be carefully and professionally packaged in bubble wrap and sent in a Jiffy bag. Metal miniatures are stripped (unless sold as New or Painted), so you can see exactly what you are getting. The picture shows the standard of the item that you will receive, likely not the actual one that you will receive. The picture may show a painted item so you can see what the figure can look like with time and effort. I try to get all items reconditioned back to what they were when originally sold. Any lead rot, it's binned. Damaged or poorly cast items are either binned, or if sold then they are clearly labelled as damaged, as people may want these for conversions. Books are sold as Reconditioned, if they are second hand, or New if they are mint.
Additional pictures may show the reverse of item but you only get one of what is shown in the main listing picture. If additional pictures show other items then they will be included. The listing may state "Dwarf 7 Dwarf Dwarves" this means that the original catalogue description was Dwarf 7 and the other descriptors are so people searching can find what they want. Please read full description for exactly what you will receive though, and please be aware that bases are usually not included unless shown in the picture. Item received may be darker than shown, as the camera flash can make the item look brighter.
Sorry, but I don't take offers on the price. Please don't contact me asking to buy items cheaper than shown, because if I start to, then I'll be inundated with different people E-Mailing me, which it's nice to chat, but I'd never get anything done. Not that I'm big business, it's just me in the back room. I do not sell fakes/copies. I wouldn't want to be ripped off myself, and wouldn't rip off others. I've been in contact with Games Workshop in the past, for their advice over this, I will report people who do, and will continue to do so. Fakes are theft. People who do so are stealing, and make peoples collections worthless. If you see it, report it.
COMBINED POSTAGE OFFERED: Please use the basket and then request the combined invoice that will save you money. If E-Bay won't let you request an invoice, use E-Bay.co.UK & not E-Bay.COM or other E-Bay sites. If unable to use the basket, commit to buy each item BUT DO NOT PAY, wait, and I'll send an invoice to you. Also some mobile device Apps don't allow it as they show less options on the page, if you use a PC, then it likely will. Postage price includes the protective packaging and combined postage savings usually notice at 3 items or more. Please only pay the discounted postage invoice. If unhappy with the postage cost, please contact me, prior to paying, to discuss. Higher value orders will be sent signed delivery, this may also be dependent on the country and buyer ratings. PLEASE CONTACT ME BEFORE LEAVING ANY BAD FEEDBACK. Items are sent out the same or the next day. Unfortunately I have no control over rare postal delays, please be mindful of this if leaving low star ratings. Thank you.
Check out my shop for quality, hard to find, original items available worldwide. The shop links in this part of the listing will show more items for sale than other links or shop icons elsewhere on this page. SHOP LINK: Hygienic Porridge Miniature Emporium Thanks for looking.
Basing Pads 25mm 40mm Round Self Adhesive Sticky Back Velour for Bloodbowl Bases.
This listing is for black sticky back basing pads. These round velour disks are approximately 0.5 mm thick (when they have been positioned with the backing paper removed) and are for use with 25mm and 40mm round Games Workshop Citadel bases. Although you'll find these pads useful for any manufacturer of plastic wargaming bases around those sizes. These peelable sticky discs are specifically designed with Bloodbowl in mind, for when a player has been knocked down and you can see the bottom of the base which is unsightly. Also they offer grip for the board knockers which is noticeable in unweighted plastic miniatures, helping to prevent player slippage that can move positions out of the control of their coach! You can use them for any boardgame pieces though, I know that one size that I sell have been used for the Cool Mini Or Not (CMON) Zombicide figures. They may even be useful for ornaments or trophies, although I think you may want thicker protective pads for anything really weighty though such as a very heavy stone based trophy.
You will receive 38 basing pads in total. That's 32 base discs for Games Workshop Citadel 25mm round plastic bases and 6 basing discs for Warhammer 40mm round plastic bases. This means that you can base two full old school based teams. I say that, as GW are going to put the new edition of Bloodbowl miniatures on 32mm bases (see my other listing that sells these). So you'll easily have enough 25mm pads for two teams worth of standard players and the 6 larger 40mm will easily cover two teams worth of Big Guys or a single Ogre teams Ogre players. I've put in the title that these are 25mm and 40mm but they are actually designed to fit 25mm and 40mm, bases. There's a slight difference here, which will likely go unnoticed by many, but I wish to mention it for two reasons, just to be clear.
1. If you try to put a 25mm pad on the underside of a 25mm base, you have to line it up perfectly. With these, it's easily done, but some people might not. If you don't then the pad will jut out slightly on one side. If this occurs some of the sticky adhesive backing will be visible (hardly noticeable) but over time will collect dust, bits of food, hair, blood, bones and whatever is lying around on the pitch. Due to this, these adhesive circles have been cut minimally under the actual size of base to try and prevent this from occurring. I noted this issue when I went out and bought a 25mm paper craft circle cutter so that I could do my own models. After spending a countless hours hunting around shops, both on the internet and off it, I found out that you'd be hard pressed to actually locate a 25mm hole punch. I think you'll find that most of them, all the ones I could locate, are made for the American market. This means that even the ones that state on the packaging that they are 25mm are not, as they are actually made to cut a 1 inch hole. Now most people think that 1 inch is 25mm, but it's not. It's actually 25.4mm. That may seem minimal, but it really notices and is too big.
2. Games Workshop 40mm bases are not actually 40mm, by my measurements they are actually 39mm. Who knows GW may rectify this in future or just choose to update sizes that they have on offer. Not that anyone really notices or cares as not many people will split the infinitive, but just so you know, these are sized for Games Workshop 40mm plastic Warhammer bases.
The circular velour disks shown in the picture may look slightly oval, but this is due to how the material that they were cut from was actually stored. Each sticker is a perfectly round cut circle using a specialist cutter. When they are applied to your plastic bases, they will remain flat. I've shown the pads on a paper sheet in the main picture, but the disks do not come attached to a sheet. This is just to display what you will actually receive, and were put on the paper as they contrast with it well. You will actually receive them in a small self seal plastic bag. These self adhesive backed basing pads are easy to apply, but also easy to remove and adjust. For those without nails, the best way to peel off the backing film is to dig it slightly with a craft blade. I've also put pictures up showing this. The backing paper comes away easily revealing the sticky backing surface. They are initially repositionable, but they will stay in place once applied. This is because the 'stick' on them is a water based adhesive, which allows for repositioning during application and cures within approximately 24 hours. If you do use them on smooth surfaces, such as glass or those cut perspex bases, then the smooth surface can be sprayed with water to improve adhesion. I did initially just cut them out by hand but it took ages, and I sat there thinking, if I could just buy the damn things. Hence me putting them up for sale. Also useful for finishing off Warhammer 40K or Warhammer Fantasy Battle (WHFB) miniatures, if they are special and you want them on the shelf or in the trophy cabinet.
They are a man made velour and work the same as vinyl contact paper or the better known sticky back plastic that Blue Peter was proud of! Velour or velours usually refers to a plush knitted fabric, material or textile similar to velvet (I think velveteen has more of a sheer effect). Velour can have a felt like appearance and is usually made from cotton but, as with the pads in this listing, can be made from synthetic materials. I assume these textured basing discs are likely polyester, so not good near a naked flame. Not that you are going to be burning up your prized miniatures! I did look at using sticky back felt for these discs, but over time felt leaves a fur on any unfinished cut edge. That's because Felt is made up of lots of wool fibres, so is in effect hairy. This velour has a fine pile or nap to it like a suede effect material perhaps, which I feel gives a better grip and is exactly what you need to stop items moving about. For example the green baize on your pubs pool table is not very fine so increases friction thus slows the balls down. The nap is the raised (fuzzy) surface on certain kinds of cloth, Nap can also refer to other surfaces that look like the surface of napped cloth, such as the surface of felt. I'm just trying to describe what it is, so there's no misconception. It's a cheaper product than felt (some people might refer to it as an artificial baize), it has a raised fuzzy surface and I believe serves the specific purpose that I'm selling it for, much better. Like any material if you put the on a dusty or dirty surface, then they will get dusty and dirty. As they are a material then they have an air release function, as air can pass through them. Some plastic foils trap air in bubbles underneath but you won't have any issues with these. That said, don't try to breathe through them! They are a choking hazard so keep away from small children and if chewed or swallowed could block an airway.
I've shown pictures of a Milliput filled base (40mm) and a base weighting beads filled base (25mm), with Neodymium magnet glued in, having a velour circular pad applied and what it looks like afterwards. The latest Games Workshop Bloodbowl miniatures are plastic and Forgeworld resin. Having weight and basing pads makes them feel like a little chess piece and adds that little extra quality to them. Please ensure that you put the pads on as the last thing you do, after the varnish coating as they will absorb superglue, paint and varnish, ruining their effect and finish. I'd heartily advise you weight your plastic miniatures bases (no matter what product you use), as they will move about in gameplay, especially if you've got those pesky board knockers. Jim and Bob would approve!
I weight all my miniatures, even though they are nearly all metal, as I like something weighty on the gaming table. If you are interested in the base weight beads to weigh down your plastic miniatures, then I sell them here:
and a cheaper deal here:
They work well and that's why I use them. They are not just for Bloodbowl, as any Warhammer plastic models with plastic bases can fall over, or be easily toppled when moved in gameplay. Very noticeable with the Standards or banner bearers but even standard troops like the Warhammer 40,000 Tyranid Hormagaunts have this issue. Even some Games Workshop Citadel metal miniatures, be it Warhammer 40K or Fantasy Battle, have the same issue as they can be top heavy due to a high centre of gravity. Especially if it's in a bit of a leaping forward or action attacking pose. Usually it's the Standard bearers that tend to topple over in game play. Why spend all that time putting a miniature together and painting it up, to whatever standard you paint to, to have it fall over and be chipped, bent, damaged or broken. The Lead beads work with regimented or skirmish units, with or without movement trays. They are easy to use Lead pellets and to fit various size bases. Just pour them in, and dab a high viscosity superglue all over them. If you are using Neodymium magnets, either to attach a Bloodbowl ball to the base or to attach the base to metal trays for carriage, then the beads can still be used. Just glue your magnets in first and then use the beads.
You may well fill your bases with Milliput (modellers Epoxy putty), Plaster of Paris or my preferred Base weight beads (because I sell them!). Seriously though, I've used Milliput and it doesn't bond well with the plastic and neither does Plaster of Paris. They do work, but they are messy, it takes ages to do and neither have the weight that Lead shot does. I definitely know that Milliput can later pop out of the base (as plastic gradually degrades and shrinks slightly over time), to which you then need to glue the Milliput back in again. I'm telling you this happens, as it happened to me, and it's a ballache! Some people use 1 pence or 2 pence pieces to weight bases, but again these coins do not have as much weight as the Base beads and, as with some base weight plugs that are sold by people, they can only be used for specific sizes of plastic bases. If you use 1p and 2p coins and want to have a magnetic ball in Bloodbowl then you may have to drill through the coin, which isn't easy. Plus the Base weight beads weigh more than these coins, which is the whole point and purpose of weighting your bases. I truly feel that the way to go, is to put a Neodymium magnet in the base, a second one for the ball if needed (ensure you get the polarity the same way around) and to fill with Base weighting beads.
The Lead Base weighting beads will roll and form into any space. This flow of base balls means that they can be used for a multitude of different base sizes. 1p and 2p coins do have the advantage that the newer minted ones (since September 1992) are not actually copper. This is because copper is now more valuable in weight than the coins value that it represents. Instead the newer coins are actually a mild steel core and electroplated in copper so are actually attracted to a magnet. An advantage being that you can then use magnetic sheeting on the shelves of a miniatures storage box to attach these to, or the movement trays, for transport. If you do this then please be sure to fix the coins in such a way that minimises the distance between the coin and the magnetic material. Due to the thickness of the coin and the depth of some bases you can get an air gap, which will affect grip dramatically. If you place the coin on the table and place a small ball of epoxy putty on top, then force the base down onto it, the coin will be flush to the bottom of the base. As I said earlier though your epoxy putty may lose it's grip over time, so when it's set you may want to dab on some superglue so that it runs round the hidden side of the coin to ensure it remains solid. Always wise to do this kind of work prior to having glued your miniature on the base, as the bases can just be turned over and will lay nice and flat.
You can buy flexible adhesive backed magnetic material in tape, off a reel, or in sheets to cut yourself using scissors. You can also buy this magnetic material in precut pads for the bottom of bases for when the sheet is put on movement trays. The disadvantage being that the magnetic material works out pretty expensive when you add it all up, for the overall coverage that you are going to need for a Warhammer army. If you go that way make sure you get it in a thickness to give a good strong hold (be aware that magnetic sticky tape on a reel can be super thin and offers little grip). I've seen people put magnetic sheeting under the bases, on the top of the movement tray, then also underneath the movement tray, and also on their storage trays. Easy carriage, time saving to game, but this works out hideously expensive. The individual miniatures look nice from underneath though, but the movement trays depth is virtually taken up by the magnetic material. So miniatures tend to ride high in the standard trays. Also, When you use this magnetic sheet, you need to get the polarity right. I don't think a lot of people are aware of this issue. If you have regimental type bases, and cut the tape in squares, it will not hold anywhere near as well if turned 90 degrees. This means if you have a 5 x 5 square movement tray, you need to align all the pads correctly before sticking them on. If you wish to use a 5 x 6 movement tray, thinking that you can have a different frontage (6 at the front with 5 ranks, or 5 at the front with 6 ranks), then it won't work. Unless you want them all facing the wrong way in game or not attaching as well to the tray in game. I know this for a fact, as I've fiddled here with it myself. An example being lightweight 1998 era Skaven slaves on 20mm x 20mm square bases (pre Age of Sigmar, AOS). I can hold the tray upside down if the minis are on correctly, but turn the bases 90 degrees then you've got no chance. The Skaven slaves are very light metal miniatures, not weighing much at all, if you have heavier miniatures (not so much an issue with plastics) then you will have problems. Just ensure that you use thick enough magnetic sheet because if it's too thin, the tape will not have enough magnetic strength to hold the model in place, be sure to check your largest model first.
I genuinely think that you are better off putting the much more powerful Neodymium magnet in the base and instead using a steel tool box which they will then attach to (utterly excellent for 1st edition Man O War miniatures, which even have a hollow for the magnets). You can use Neo magnets with a thin carbon steel shim or (also called steel foil, steel sheet or steel paper) on your movement trays, but it rusts, so you'll need to coat it with a non waterbased undercoat. If you are using carbon steel shim, degrease it and clean it up prior to painting, or any paint you put on will just not get a good grip and will lift off. This is because of the oil on the rollers, that is needed to manufacture the carbon steel shim. For cleaning it I'd advise Acetone (which is available in some nail varnish removers) or perhaps Isopropyl / Isopropanol alchohol (it's flammable, take full safety precautions). They'll evaporate leaving the surface clean, rather than a petroleum based such as White Spirit, although you'll get away with useing the latter. Get the right shim, don't buy stainless steel, it's more expensive and the Neodymium magnets will not grip to it well, if at all. Please be aware that the thinner the shim, the more expensive it can get so to go a little thicker means you save money. I'd advise to buy it on a roll, rather than sheets of it, to save on wastage. The thinner shim steel can be cut with scissors, confirm with the seller first, tell them what you want, and they may even send you a few off cuts to test your magnets grip on. Neo magnets will also be attracted to the magnetic sheet but nowhere near as well. Even using large ones, 5mm x 2mm, the grip will be weak, so not very practical. If you choose to use Neos with the steel shim on your movement trays, this is a win win situation, but may well fall out of fashion over time because of the more skirmish orientated Age Of Sigmar (AOS) rules. They really make a difference with plastic miniatures. I truly feel that to have magnets in the bases and carbon steel shim is the way to go, but it may come down to personal preference. You may instead wish to use magnetic sheet to attach to carbon steel shim lined boxes. I like KS storage, but setting up my Skaven army takes an age.
SHOP LINK: Hygienic Porridge Miniature Emporium Thanks for looking.
I only post to the invoice address. Please read postage, packaging, returns and payment details prior to bidding. Item is in good condition, unless otherwise stated. There may be residual paint on it, all miniatures have been washed to remove any residual chemical paint stripper, but I advise washing in soapy water with a toothbrush prior to painting, due to handling. I'm a collector, and honest seller, with excellent feedback. If there is an issue, then please contact to discuss, prior to leaving poor feedback.
WARNING. This is not a children's toy. It is a collectable for adults and is not recommended for young children under the age of 14 years old. Use of the product is at the user’s own risk, who by purchasing accepts responsibility from the point of receipt. CHOKING HAZARD, may contain small parts. Please be aware that the items, and the packaging that they are received in, are a choking hazard and may restrict breathing. They may pose a DANGER OF SUFFOCATION so please either store or dispose of packaging carefully. Do not ingest and keep away from small children. Items received may contain Lead and other metals, do not place in the mouth or swallow as it may be harmful if eaten or chewed. Wash your hands after handling and keep away from foodstuffs. Use of gloves is advisable in handling, especially if you have allergies to the product. Items and parts sold may have sharp points, edges or a cutting blade, be aware and avoid puncture injury to the eyes. Store carefully as items may be a slip, trip or fall hazard.