sorry.... nov 2022. this stuff coming out of UK is rocketing up at 50% increases... where out pollies come up with their horseshit 6% cpi is anyones guess.... every order that arrives just keeps on going up, and , and up... these have doubled in the last 2 years. 

THIS IS A BRILLIANT-CHROME NUMBER PLATE  LIGHT MADE TO ORIGINAL SPECIFICATION AND IN A HEAVY QUALITY SOLID METAL/CHROME AND GLASS LENS. CALLED A "D" LIGHT , OR L467, IT FITS MANY MANY CARS  

THIS EXACT HI-Q ONE IS NOW ALSO AVAILABLE IN SATIN BLACK. To move between the two, simply search on the same title, but change CHROME to BLACK and vice versa.

EG

AC cobra

Austin a30, a35, a40, a90

Daimler sp250

Hillman Minx

Kit cars

Land Rover 2/3

MG midget MGA MGB TD TF

Mini

Morgan

Morris minor

Rover 75

Singer 51/56

Sprite, A/H

Triumph Herald spitfire vitesse GT6 TR3

Even Hella are “chromed” plastic.... this is a top quality unit. You will be DELIGHTED with this light... it feels and looks superb... the mirror finish, the weight of it etc, the glass lens, no compromise was made with this one. (I do have listed a plastic one for around ten bucks which suits some applications or budgets)

This is only for the discerning vintage buyer who wants an original metal/chrome and glass light... made to the original specs and more OE. The plastic “chrome” one (even Hella is plastic) looks cruddy to start with and goes off in a year.... it just spoils all your hard work... this one can be polished

Fitting tips below

The photos are hard to take as the chrome constantly reflects everything like a mirror and it makes photos hard to take.

Fitting tips.

I have just fitted one and here are some tips.

Put a blanket down in case you drop the glass.

Undo light, remove lamps (see bullet part). Push hole carefully in rubber for positive feed.

Personally, I would not use the earth bullet… I would use a crimp and fit to one of the bolts of the light as they come through on the inside of the boot

Set it all up with a semi-loose fit and the wires all ready to go.  Now connect the positive feed using a bullet.

The bullets are old-school ones… not like modern… you cut the insulator on the positive feed wire to 8mm, do not twist the end wires….   Then holding the bullet in your fingers, poke the wire thru from fat end to thin end, so the insulator is inside and all the spray of wires is back outside.  Then fold the bare wires back over the bullet… . 

Now comes the part that requires adept fingers and use of a medium pair of long nose pliers.  Remove the two globes and carefully line up the bullet in the copper ring in the middle (NOT the earth one).  It is quite tricky as it is a very firm press-fit into that copper ring (to squeeze the wires between two surfaces), but the frame gets in the way.  Stay calm and line it up then use the pliers to press it in. Don't get your fingers between the pliers or $#!%$#!

Once that’s in it’s all a breeze.

If the light is not fitted to a perfectly flat surface you may need to think about minor compromises in nut tightness, or sealing perfection etc… Don’t just tighten it up without a care as a curved surface and flat glass are not good friends….