50 Nui Chua Rabeayae Ova (Eggs)


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Nui Chua are a lively and attractive species, recently discovered in Vietnam. (First described 2018). A very easy care species. Happy at normal room temperature. They eat a wide variety of leaves. (See Care below.)

Females get much larger than the males, and take longer to reach adulthood. Males sometimes pair up with a female nymph (see picture 5), and he transfers himself when she moults. Pairs can remain together for life.

Eggs are tiny balls. They are a powdery mottled white when first laid, and darkening to brown. 

Nymphs start small and dark, but soon become really pretty with stripy legs, long stripy antennae, and glittery gold flecked bodies. Both sexes change to a rich red/bronze colour with slate grey heads, after their final moult.


Pictures show:
1.      Eggs/ Ova
2.       L1 Nymph.
3,4.    Adult Pairs.
5.       Adult Male, Sub-adult Female Pair.
6-10.  Nymphs male and female.


CARE:  Nuichua Rabeayae.

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Nui Chua are easy care. Happy at room temperatures, living together, and with other species.

Cages: Babies are tiny so keep in a small cage or tub until they have grown a bit. They will eventually need a well ventilated cage 25 to 30cm high. They prefer a net or mesh cages, to tanks, as it provides climbing grip, and ventilation. If your cage has smooth sides use branches for support.
Mist leaves and substrate to provide humidity, but don't keep it too wet. Humidity is important as it helps nymphs to moult successfully, but mould is bad. I use kitchen paper on cage floors, to help regulate this. Paper also makes egg gathering easier.
Humidity is not as important to adults, but they still enjoy a drink. 
Food: They will eat a variety of leaves. I use mostly Bramble, but also Oak and Beech, Whitebeam, and Raspberry in season. I have heard they will also eat Hawthorn and Rose. Bramble is good all year, and in winter you can find it even under snow, and is all old leaves (no toxic young ones). Beware of the thorns, they can injure large critters.
DON'T use florists leaves. They may be sprayed.
Rinse leaves in fresh water before using. A metal lidded jam jar with a hole punched through the lid makes a good water container for stems. Replace leaves when they start to dry out.
AVOID leaves from beside very busy roads.
ALWAYS choose healthy mature dark leaves, and avoid fresh pale young ones as they are often high in toxins.

EGGS: Take several months to hatch. (the time can vary enormously). Keep them on slightly moist kitchen paper in a well ventilated container. When eggs start hatching, cover lightly with strands of moss. Climbing through helps babies get free of their egg shells. Mist eggs very lightly with water. You want them to stay humid, but not wet enough to go mouldy or drown. Let the paper just dry between misting. If you see mould, clean eggs by tipping them onto a clean damp cloth, removing bad eggs, and then very gently rolling the others around on the cloth. Clean the container too, before putting them back. I keep egg tubs on damp sand in a small stacker box, and use the lid to regulate the humidity.

Hatchlings: Keep babies in small containers. Little pop-up net cages are good, or plastic tubs with net lids. Use a jar with perforated lid for the food stems. (Pack gaps with tissue.) Small cages make finding tiny critters easier when changing leaves, and lets you keep a close eye on them. Having just a few leaves means lots of nibbled edges, which seems to encourage new babies to start feeding. Once they start they usually do fine. Use healthy leaves, keep them especially fresh, and trim the edges until they get going. The best starter leaves are ones that have been nibbled by other nymphs.  
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Currently Wednesday.  Critters will be sent 1st Class. Eggs 2nd Class.
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