Some useful information to consider...
Regarding the paper I use:
I use 70 pound text as well as 67 and 80 pound cover Mohawk Cream Superfine paper (unless stated otherwise in the book's specific ad). Mohawk Superfine is the finest printing paper made today and is manufactured by a fourth-generation, family-owned and operated business right here in Cohoes, NY. No other paper has the same reputation for quality, consistency and uniformity. Superfine inspires great design with its superb formation, lush tactility, archival quality and timeless appeal.
Regarding the woods I use:
I construct my cover boards and spine board from 3/16" Mahogany LuAnn (floor underlayment). This provides extreme durability and the highest resistance to warping. Any trim work is done in solid Maple or Mahogany. I do not use cardboard in the construction of my books, nor will I ever.
Regarding Leather Quality:
All of the leather I use during the construction of my books in manufactured here in the U.S.A.
1) Full Grain Leather (Which is the leather I typically use for my one-of-a-kind "Hell-Fire" editions)
for only the most high-end products. Full grain leather only uses the very highest (closest to the air) layer of skin, which is the toughest, most durable, and most beloved. It is left unfinished, meaning it has completely unique characteristics, creases, and coloring. Because of the smaller amount of leather on the surface of each animal and the difficulty of working with full grain toughness, the price is understandably high.
2) Top Grain Leather (Which is the leather I use for my works)
to get high-quality goods at a much more reasonable price. The most common "luxury" leather is top grain, which takes the layer of skin just below full grain and works it lightly to remove imperfections. It is smoother and more consistent than full grain, but easier to work as well, keeping the price down. While not as durable as full grain, it is still a strong, well-crafted leather.
3) Genuine Leather
usually has a suede side or feeling to it. Genuine leather is made by stripping off the harder, more expensive grains from the top, then using the softer, easier to work leather underneath. It is not as durable as full or top grain, but it is much cheaper since it can be manufactured into a variety of goods with ease. Remember - genuine leather is a specific grade, not the phrase for real leather. If you request genuine leather in a leather shop, they will have a specific type of product in mind.
4) Bonded Leather (Which is the Leather used for traditional book binding)
is made from ground up and glued leather shavings. While bonded leather is still leather, it isn't an unbroken or regular piece of animal skin. Instead, the shavings from all the other leather grades are collected, ground up, and mixed with an adhesive liquid to make a piece of leather. Though cheap, the quality is severely lacking. Because the quality is less impressive, bonded leather is often used for book covers and other smaller, less worn items.
Regarding the glues I use:
I use 6 different glues throughout the process, all of which are produced here in the U.S.A.
Regarding the brass I use:
This is where a great challenge for me really comes into play.
The brass clasps which I salvage from antique 19th century books are of solid brass, not plated tin which is so commonly found today. I spend a great deal of time restoring the finish on the brass, as well as re-work the hinges and pins. When I am finished, the clasp is in as near the condition as possible that it was when new in the 1800s.
Any nails or screws I use are of solid brass and made in the U.S.A.
The brass tacks I use for my spines are made in the U.S.A. and come from a local supplier. Some are solid brass, while some are plated zinc.
The pentagram/seals which I adorn the covers of my books with are of solid brass. Unfortunately, I went through many an engraver within the U.S. (seven to be exact) and was not satisfied with the end results of which I was receiving. Many engravers within the United States for some reason absolutely love their laser engravers. While they may work for some individuals, I was looking to obtain the best outcome possible for my finished works. I discovered Andy of Engraving Studios, based in the UK. (engravingstudios.co.uk) After communicating and working with him, I discovered the machinery he uses, his impeccable skills, his longevity in perfecting this craft, the extent he is willing to go to get the job done right, and maybe most importantly, his passion for what he does. May his work and his ethics set the example for others. Thank you Andy for your patience and your craft.
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