This book starts with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style. It offers an examination of how dress formed political identities and communicated social and political messages during the period when imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form.
Starting with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style, this collection explores the relationships among political theory, dress, and self-presentation during a period in which imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form.Organised under three thematic clusters, the volume's chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by West India regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentations of members of parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters and caricatures in novels, paintings, and political cartoon. With its interdisciplinary approach, the book will appeal to nineteenth-century cultural and social historians and literary critics as well as advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students whose research and teaching interests include gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism.
Starting with the premise that clothing is political, this volume explores the relationships between political theory, dress, and self-presentation during the period in which Britain's colonial empire assumed its modern form. The book assembles an international group of scholars to document the role of clothing in shaping identities and communicating social and political messages. It sheds light on the material basis of the political cultures of Britain and its colonies while offering timely connections to present-day issues and concerns. The chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by the West India Regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentation of members of Parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters in novels, paintings, and political cartoons. Since politics in this period was mostly a man's affair, Political and sartorial styles focuses primarily on men and masculinity - an underrepresented area in scholarship on fashion and style. The book will appeal to students and scholars of nineteenth-century history, particularly those working on gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism.
Kevin A. Morrison is Provincial Chair Professor, University Distinguished Professor, and Professor of British Literature in the School of Foreign Languages at Henan University
Introduction: Jim Crow's tuxedo – Kevin A. Morrison
Part I: Between metaphor and materiality
1 Smock frock farmer or smock frock radical? Political interpretations of one garment in nineteenth-century England – Alison Toplis
2 A delicate balance of power: Victorian tailors and their gentleman clients – Chris Kent
3 Second-hand clothes, second-hand politics: sartorial exchange, social reform, and the work of the novel in Walter Besant's Children of Gibeon –Peter Katz
Part II: Reading appearances
4 'If you want to get ahead, get a hat': manliness, power, and politics via the top hat – Ariel Beaujot
5 Dressing for disinterestedness: Herbert Spencer, John Stuart Mill, and John Morley – Kevin A. Morrison
6 Sartorial subversion and the House of Commons: political identities, meanings and the responses to MPs' dress, c. 1850–1914 – Marcus Morris
7 Dressing for the vote in Ford Madox Brown's Work– Janice Carlisle
Part III: Global connections and entanglements
8 Spectacles of grandeur and fabrics for the brave: West India regiments' dress through 1900 – Steeve O. Buckridge
9 'The philosophy of clothes': politics and dress in Melbourne Punch, 1860s–70s – Shu-chuan Yan
10 Gertrude Bell, femme impériale – Elizabeth Bishop
Index
Starting with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style, this collection explores the relationships among political theory, dress, and self-presentation during a period in which imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form. Organised under three thematic clusters, the volume's chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by West India regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentations of members of parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters and caricatures in novels, paintings, and political cartoon. With its interdisciplinary approach, the book will appeal to nineteenth-century cultural and social historians and literary critics as well as advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students whose research and teaching interests include gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism.