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Political and Sartorial Styles

by Kevin Morrison

This book starts with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style. It offers an examination of how dress formed political identities and communicated social and political messages during the period when imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form.

FORMAT
Hardcover
LANGUAGE
English
CONDITION
Brand New


Publisher Description

Starting with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style, this collection explores the relationships among political theory, dress, and self-presentation during a period in which imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form.Organised under three thematic clusters, the volume's chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by West India regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentations of members of parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters and caricatures in novels, paintings, and political cartoon. With its interdisciplinary approach, the book will appeal to nineteenth-century cultural and social historians and literary critics as well as advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students whose research and teaching interests include gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism.

Flap

Starting with the premise that clothing is political, this volume explores the relationships between political theory, dress, and self-presentation during the period in which Britain's colonial empire assumed its modern form. The book assembles an international group of scholars to document the role of clothing in shaping identities and communicating social and political messages. It sheds light on the material basis of the political cultures of Britain and its colonies while offering timely connections to present-day issues and concerns. The chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by the West India Regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentation of members of Parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters in novels, paintings, and political cartoons. Since politics in this period was mostly a man's affair, Political and sartorial styles focuses primarily on men and masculinity - an underrepresented area in scholarship on fashion and style. The book will appeal to students and scholars of nineteenth-century history, particularly those working on gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism.

Author Biography

Kevin A. Morrison is Provincial Chair Professor, University Distinguished Professor, and Professor of British Literature in the School of Foreign Languages at Henan University

Table of Contents

Introduction: Jim Crow's tuxedo – Kevin A. Morrison

Part I: Between metaphor and materiality
1 Smock frock farmer or smock frock radical? Political interpretations of one garment in nineteenth-century England – Alison Toplis
2 A delicate balance of power: Victorian tailors and their gentleman clients – Chris Kent
3 Second-hand clothes, second-hand politics: sartorial exchange, social reform, and the work of the novel in Walter Besant's Children of Gibeon –Peter Katz

Part II: Reading appearances
4 'If you want to get ahead, get a hat': manliness, power, and politics via the top hat – Ariel Beaujot
5 Dressing for disinterestedness: Herbert Spencer, John Stuart Mill, and John Morley – Kevin A. Morrison
6 Sartorial subversion and the House of Commons: political identities, meanings and the responses to MPs' dress, c. 1850–1914 – Marcus Morris
7 Dressing for the vote in Ford Madox Brown's Work– Janice Carlisle

Part III: Global connections and entanglements
8 Spectacles of grandeur and fabrics for the brave: West India regiments' dress through 1900 – Steeve O. Buckridge
9 'The philosophy of clothes': politics and dress in Melbourne Punch, 1860s–70s – Shu-chuan Yan
10 Gertrude Bell, femme impériale – Elizabeth Bishop

Index

Long Description

Starting with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style, this collection explores the relationships among political theory, dress, and self-presentation during a period in which imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form. Organised under three thematic clusters, the volume's chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by West India regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentations of members of parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters and caricatures in novels, paintings, and political cartoon. With its interdisciplinary approach, the book will appeal to nineteenth-century cultural and social historians and literary critics as well as advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students whose research and teaching interests include gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism.

Details

ISBN1526153076
Short Title Political and Sartorial Styles
Publisher Manchester University Press
Series Studies in Design and Material Culture
Language English
Year 2023
ISBN-10 1526153076
ISBN-13 9781526153074
Format Hardcover
Publication Date 2023-01-24
Imprint Manchester University Press
Place of Publication Manchester
Country of Publication United Kingdom
NZ Release Date 2023-01-24
UK Release Date 2023-01-24
Illustrations 15 colour illustrations, 29 black & white illustrations
Author Kevin Morrison
Subtitle Britain and its Colonies in the Long Nineteenth Century
Edited by Kevin Morrison
Pages 296
DEWEY 391
Audience General
AU Release Date 2023-01-31

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