SUMMER HOLIDAYS.

1932.

000

A week's holiday and the call of Land's End, The Lizard, and blue Atlantic against the wonderful cliffs of Kynance.

the On the Friday night I left Leicester, with the Norton duly loaded, on its first holiday. My pal and I met at a cross roads the other side of Stratfora-on-avon, and after the necessary celebration betook ourselves to the business in front of us, namely, to arrive at Land's End without undue waste of time. Southwards then along the fine undulating road past Moreton -in-the-Marsh, Stow-in-the-world, Northleach, and finally dropping down in to the town of Cirencester. Here we could find no inviting hostelry, and so determined to push on to Malmesbury, which we reached into the failing light at 9.25 p.m. where we were made welcome at the King's Arms, on my part having covered over 100 miles since Leicester. We always make a practice of a good start for our holidays, and a splash at the local hotel.

SATURDAY morning we left on our way at 10.15 a.m. and made 

excellent time through Chippenham, Melkaham, Trowbridge, and Prome. Here abouts an awkward piece of road delayed our good speed, but we quickly got going again through Bruton, Castle Cary, Sparkford sna Ilminster. Then on through Dlchester to Honiton, where we arrived for lunch at 1.0 p.m. It had been a splendid ride through Wiltshire and Somerset, up and down the chalk hills, or along long straight stretches of road on the uplands, with wonderful views on either hand. After a good lunch at the Angel Hotel, so splendid that we did

not leave till 2.30 p.m. we left for Exeter. (Unfortunately Bertie, my pal, developed a sore back, due to a previous strain and stiff saddle springs, which threatened seriously to delay our journey. However after arest by the roadside the trouble wore off, but a quiet speed was necessary for some time). Leaving Exeter we were soon on Dartmoor. Here the clouds greeted us and a slight drizzle, which swept down from the Tors. Here was my turn for trouble, when an old split pin chose to leave the gear operating lever. Of course I should have replaced it before leaving Leicester. Luckily a wayside garage was able to replac the missing part, and we were soon our way to Okehampton and Launceston

Here we stopped to view the town and the old jail, which stands on a hill and commands a fine view of the country for miles around. Thus far 148 miles today. A fine run followed across the moors of Bodmin, with Brown Willy standing out rugged and clear. Later we dropped down into Bodmin, and a short distance further stopped at Lanivet, where Mrs Warren gave us the real Cornish cream, and fairly filled us with good things. We were on our way again by 6.30 p.m. travelling straight down through the centre of Cornwall, passing Redruth, Camborne and Hayle. Penzance was reached at 8 p.m. Here we stopped and view the bay, with St. Michael's Mount standing out in the clear evening sky.

After some shopping we went on to St. Just where we arrived at 8.55.p.m. with 230 miles to our credit for the day, and 335 miles from Leicester. Before turning in, as we were feeling quite fresh we travelled to Cape Cornwall and watched the sun set over the sea, whilst around us light- houses blinked, and the Scilly Isles lay like a cloud on the horizon.

SUNDAY dawned fine but very hazy, and leaving at 11.30 a.m. we pottered up north to Botallack Mine, which has buildings right down on the water's edge. Here we saw a fox. Later we returned through St Just. and continued to Land's End. Here we tramped the cliffs northwards, and had our meal with a friendly gull. Later in the afternoon we went south to a little inlet called Porthcurnow, where the Atlantic cable was brought ashore. It is a little rocky cove with wonderful white sand. Here a gradient of 1 in 3 lifted us up to the cliff top, from which we saw a battleship close inshore. Here I remembered I had left a book on the roadside near Land's End, and made a fruitless journey back to retrieve it. Afterwards we went to another charming spot called Porthgwarra, and leaving the bikes we tramped the cliffs towards Land's End. This took along the coastguard's path among the finest cliff scen- ery in England. The rocks had magnificent vertical formations, with individual pieces the size of a room. All kinds of natural life was found us, rock rabbits, solan geese, endless gulls and cormorants.

At Tol-Pedn-Penwith the cliffs form a natural ladder of gigantic dim- ensions, at other spots the cliffs form vertical clefts where you can flat and peer in the sea far below. The formations take on all kinds of coast sisilitudes, a particularly good one being the Horses Head. The itself is a series of bays, which come into view one by one ss you travel on. Far off across one of them I spotted a triangular fin close into the shore. We made haste to come up with it and eventually gained the cliff directly overhead. Here we saw two sharks, and through the glasse you could see every detail in the clear water. As dusk was rapidly falling we made our way back to Porthgwarra and the bikes, and an even run brought us back to the hospitable home of Messrs Keverne and Sible Every time we visit this part of the country we always make a point o visiting these folk, who always make everybody so comfortable

MONDAY morning was cloudy, with the wind blowing from the west. The highlands behind St. Just were covered by banks of clouds, and Carn Brea was nearly invisible, Observing that the clouds did not form overthe flatter Lizard Peninsular, I suggested a run out that way, and so passing through Penzance we travelled via Helston southwards into the sunlight. Turning off to the east we soon arrived at Cadgwith. a tiny fishing village in a narrow inlet. After leaving the bikes and investigating the place we tramped up the steep hill out of the valley, refreshing ourselves with an excellent drink at a farm house of home made wine.

Soon after leaving Cadgwith a huge hole appears in the cliffs

where the sea has eaten its way in, and is called the Frying Pan. This

was the hottest day yet, and personally I was painfully sunburnt. We were fortunate enough to see several shipd of interest, including a full rigged ship, the Berengaria, a new French liner, a German liner, and many other craft. Two miles along the exposed cliffs in the hotmsun was enough, and we crouched down under the shadow of a bank to eat our midday meal. Making our way back over the inland fields we eventually found ourselves back in Cadgwith, where we collected the bikes, and made for Lizard Town and the tiny little spot called Church Cove. Here we

TUESDAY morning at 10.30.a.m. found us at Kynance Cove, the fam- ous beauty spot. We soon climbed the cliffs northwards, admiring the rock scenery, and the numerous islands. Presently we came to the Horse. This is a steep rocky projection out into the Atlantic, with sides too steep for any soil or vegetation. The scenery here is beyond description, The blue sea, the red and coloured cliffs, the white foam and deep sky with the sea-birds all around us. Countless sea-birds nest in crannies on the Horse, and many young were about. A short distance further brought us to Pigeon Ogo. a wonderful amphitheatre of rock, hollowed out of the cliff, with the sides overhanging, so that by lying full length and peering over the edge you cannot see the water below. This faces north-west and is practically sunless, being gloomy beyond words.

Then back down into Kynance for lunch, and up along the clif is southwards to the Lion Rock. This a piece of cliff left standing in the sea by the erosion of the remainder, the land from which it came still has a vertical rock face and a narrow neck of land with vertical sides projects seawards. On this neck we parked ourselves for a long time, and the impression is that one is more or less floating on air, with

ok

the edge

reveals a 200 ft drop. Here we spent most of the afternoon, enjoying the wonderful view. Later we wandered back to the main road, and went round to Gunwalloe, chiefly noted for the church which is built on the sands immediately behind a protecting bluff of cliff. There is no other building near. A fine view is obtained of Poldhu station, and the cliffs by Mullion. After that to Love Pool, a sheet of fresh water separated from the sea by a bar of shingle. This stretches for two miles inland nearly to Helston. Round we went to Helston again and turned into Porthleven, a famous shipbuilding village. As the annual fair was in progress we hastened out after viewing the harbour.

We made our way across the Lizard Peninsular to the east coast, through St Keverne, to a little spot calledPorthoustock, a little inlet with a few houses and a local stone quarry. We were made thoroug ly comfortable at a little bungalow, and whether it was the heat or the walking, I do not know , bub we were but absolutely tired out. In fact a night's rest did not repair the damage.

WEDNESDAY found us still tired, so we spent an interesting morning viewing the stone quarries, and seeing the blasting, which hurled lumps of rock far across the bay. Then we tramped the cliffs once more to see the wreck of a steamer on Lowlands Point. Back to our little spot again. Later northwards to Porthallow, and round the country near Helford River through Manaccan and Helford itself. The roads are narrow lanes, continually overhting with trees, and of course the gradients have to be seen to be believed. Helford is a little gem in the backwaters of the sea, with thatched cottages covered with roses.

Another steep climb brought us on the road to Gweek. Here

tea-time approaching and the weather looking like breaking up, we turned

back to Helston for the necessary. During tea the rain set in as a steady drizzle. Later across the Peninsular eastwards to Coverack. Here we were made welcome as was usual in this part of the country, and in the evening went out to see a young shark which had been just brought ashore by a firherman, who caught it in his nets. Round the next bay we saw another wreck. The glass was steadily dropping and the old salts promised a wet day for the morrow.

THURSDAY brought us heavy rain and high wind, and as we were still well down the Cornwall Peninsular, it seemed advisable to get nearer home. Accordingly we wrapt ourselves up and braved the weather. Our journey took us across to Gweek, and thence up a narrow bumpy lane on to the high land in the rear of Falmouth. Here the rain and the wind thoroughly did their best to make our life miserable. Passing through Stithians, Perranarworthal, Truro and Ladock we eventually arrived at Wadebridge. Here my pal, who was not so well protected as I, was so wet that I was fain to laugh at his miserable drowned-dog appearance. A good hotel and grub was essential, and after supper we went down to the local cinema in the pouring rain to spend the evening. To add to our misfortunes the films had not arrived by the last train, so all the local population trooped home again. We spent the rest of the evening reading the hotel novels. It was a day wasted for sight seeing.