Synhouse has customers in 42 countries.

Synhouse ships to your country and has since before eBay existed.

If you are looking at a small/normal item in the Synhouse eBay listings and seeing no shipping options to your area or seeing a notice that says the seller doesn't ship to your address, this is incorrect. I've been shipping to Australia, England, etc. since 1990, five years before eBay even existed, and eBay has deleted ALL the shipping options and prices I've spent many hours setting up, in order to enable eBay International Shipping, and then tells people in the most commonly shipped to countries that shipping is not available there. This is fake and idiotic; eBay had already been shipping there with the eBay Global Shipping Program for a few years, now says they don't with eBay International Shipping AND deleted my own shipping options without my permission or knowledge, when it could have and should have been left in place as an option because at least it WORKS and eBay doesn't know what they are doing.

This goes WAY back to 2017 with people in New Zealand (one of the most commonly shipped to Synhouse countries) telling me that I don't ship there, and 1) multiple calls to eBay didn't solve it, 2) they sometimes said they solved it but didn't, and 3) said "Uhm, wait 24 hours and it will be working.", which is how eBay gets you off the phone. And I could never get that New Zealand problem solved. The new problem since early 2023 is eBay deleting my own shipping options in order to put theirs in, then theirs tells people no, the seller doesn't ship there, but I CAN manually set up a shipping method (usually with Synhouse it's one price each for USA, Canada, Asia/Australia, and the rest of the world.

Now I'm getting messages like these:

5/16/2023: Hi, Wondering how much shipping would be to Canada, postal code T2N 2P7. Thanks!
Can you enable the ebay international shipping option for me? I am very interested.
1/1/2024: Hi there can you post to London uk and how much would postage be?
Hi how much would postage be to London England
Thanks for your reply. Im trying to check out but im get the message saying seller doesn't ship to your address. Please advise as i really need the new faceplate.
1/30/2024: Hello synhouse, I have a T8 and would like to buy your Optical-Emitter-Set just to make sure to have it in the future. Is there a reason you don't ship to Germany?

If you see that any small/normal Synhouse item does not ship to you/your area, this is FAKE and wrong, please send an eBay message to tell me and I can manually enter shipping to your area AGAIN.

Sorry for this incompetent platform I've been struggling with for 25 years now...
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(Please note: The photos in the photo gallery are the copyrighted

property of Synhouse and as such are watermarked with SYNHOUSE SYNHOUSE
SYNHOUSE in purple, green, and black across the photos. These marks
don't exist on the actual product. As you can see, those words run off
onto the background wall, floor, wood, etc., they aren't really there,
just superimposed on the photos to secure them.)

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This listing is for the E-mu Emulator II+ main control panel overlay
ONLY, not the smaller Moog wheels panel overlay (even though it's shown
in the photo gallery for reference regarding how well it matches this
main one). The Moog wheels panel overlay is available separately in my
other listing "Brand New E-mu Emulator II Replacement Moog Wheels Panel
Overlay - MINT & NEW!".

If you need both pieces, please send me an eBay message and ask for the
discounted/combined shipping full set E-mu Emulator II+ main control
panel overlay + Moog wheels panel overlay for $191 plus the same
shipping price that you see on this listing for the single piece, and I
will set it up for you.

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Completely renew the control panel of your E-mu Emulator II+ with this
brand new replacement overlay from Synhouse, manufactured of the highest
quality polycarbonate and adhesive with crystal clear printing and
brilliant colors.

It is properly made of a sandy-textured polycarbonate substrate
material, with die-cut holes for the buttons, LEDs, and sliders, and has
the correct smooth clear plastic window over the LCD.

Synhouse now has you covered on all three models, even the two newer
ones with the low energy logos (instead of the highly stylized E-mu
tuning fork logo on the Emulator II and SP-12/SP-12 Turbo, they were
really phoning it in by '86) that kids have been crying about since
Synhouse came out with the standard classic Emulator II replacement
overlay March 15th, 2018.

The E-mu colors:

The dark blue color is a slightly bright bluish dark blue that some
would say is most like the original Emulator II machines from the second
half of 1984, for reference I have included a photo of an October 1985
E-mu advertisement in the photo gallery here that shows what is probably
a fairly early unit. While most of my Emulators are wrapped in padded
blankets and flight cased in the back of the Synhouse warehouse, I do
have five of them in front of me at home, and the dark blue on all of
them is a slightly darker and less blue than it is on this new overlay.
I did it this way because people have commented that Emulator II
overlays from other sellers in the past weren't as blue as they
remembered, and I guess the blue is a distinctive thing about E-mu
instruments. I should note, though that the differences I am referring
to are very slight, and the actual color difference between anything I
have owned or seen or manufactured is very small, too small to capture
in some photos. When I created this overlay set over the fall and winter
of 2017, I spent a lot of time working to achieve that bluer blue of the
1984 Emulator IIs that people talk about. The Emulator II overlays sold
by anyone else have been shown in many, many photos (dark and blurry
photos, and most often photographed through the plastic wrapper), both
from the seller and from people who bought them, didn't put them on
their instrument, and put them up for sale, don't show much of a blue
color at all. They have a blacker appearance in all photos I've seen.
This could be related to lighting or other factors, but I feel that my
Emulator II overlay set perfectly matches the E-mu blue that people
remember and see in old photos.

Emulator IIs that were used little and have been kept in the flight case
seem to have the darkest blue now, and my estimation is that this is
darker than it was 35 years ago, as things tend to darken. Everything
gets darker over time, from car seats to footballs to wood to human
skin. Emulator IIs that were used a lot, sold and resold (some of these
actually got steady use throughout the 80s, 90s, 2000s, and 2010s, not a
lot of instruments can say that, even the mighty Minimoog saw almost no
use in America 1980-1995), often have overlays that are severely faded
and streaked, very badly on the little Moog wheels panel overlay. In my
"Brand New E-mu Emulator II Replacement Moog Wheels Panel Overlay - MINT
& NEW!" listing, you can see a particularly bad one, and on that one,
just in the dark blue area, you can see it has transformed into fifty
different shades of blue, from badly darkened by age to damaged almost
to light gray.

I have total control over every aspect of every process in the
manufacturing of all Synhouse products. If I want it to be orange, it's
orange. If I want it to be a 5% darker orange, then it will be redone
in  a 5% darker orange. If I want it orange with gold polka dots, then
it will be done in orange with gold polka dots. This isn't a random
process for me and I don't just shrug my shoulders and accept what I get
the first time if it isn't precisely right. Big suppliers don't expect
me to accept whole production runs of things that were done wrong and
don't look right because they know they'll lose my business.

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There is a minimum shipping price for all of my small components and a
different minimum for a very low value item or for something $50 or
more. However, I can ship almost any number of parts for the
international shipping that it shows for most of those items. So if you
want, for example, an SP1200 overlay and some knobs and some switches,
or knobs and switches and potentiometers or whatever, just let me know
IN ADVANCE and I will set up a special listing for you so that you will
only pay the shipping once. This is if you tell me IN ADVANCE, not if
you ask for it later because any shipping money paid has already been
docked 14.9% by eBay managed payments and that money is not coming back.
Yes, eBay takes the same percentage of the stated shipping charge as
they do on the item since 2011. So let me know in advance and I can set
it up so that you can save a lot of money by buying and shipping the
parts together.

I can also set up special listings for different quantities of items
sometimes. Usually the price is the same per item but I can set it up
and that saves a lot of money on shipping.

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Please read and understand everything above before buying.
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Everything below this line is just extra information about Synhouse
overlays and the work that goes into making them, reading it is optional.
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All Synhouse drum machine/synthesizer overlays are in stock and
available at all times, but sometimes the listings expire and aren't
relisted. There are presently 13 Synhouse drum machine/synthesizer
overlays (not including the miscellaneous array of overlays used in
Synclavier production) in production and in stock:

E-mu Drumulator Little SP overlay (SP1200 style overlay that sticks over
original Drumulator graphics [which are usually worn off] and makes it
match the look of your SP1200) $49.50

discounted/combined shipping full set E-mu Drumulator Little SP overlay
+ (1) new SP1200 fat cap slider cap + (2) new replacement knobs $74.50

E-mu SP1200 overlay $144

E-mu SP-12 (non-Turbo) overlay $144

E-mu SP-12 Turbo (says Turbo on it) overlay $144

E-mu SP-12 rear jackplate overlay $29

discounted/combined shipping full set E-mu SP-12 (non-Turbo or Turbo)
overlay + rear jackplate overlay $168

E-mu Emulator II main control panel overlay $168

E-mu Emulator II+ main control panel overlay $168

E-mu Emulator II+ HD main control panel overlay $168

E-mu Emulator II Moog wheels panel overlay (normal new blue color that
matches the new main control panel overlay) $29

E-mu Emulator II Moog wheels panel overlay (slightly lighter/grayish
blue color that is more likely to match a faded old main control panel
overlay, normally recommended if you are keeping the old main control
panel overlay and only buying the Moog wheels panel overlay) $29

discounted/combined shipping full set E-mu Emulator II, Emulator II+, or
Emulator II+ HD main control panel overlay + Moog wheels panel overlay $191

Moog Source control panel w/62 REAL SWITCHES to replace membrane panel $247

New England Digital Synclavier II ORK MIDI panel overlay $29

360 Systems Instant Replay HD Audio 2.0 overlay $69

Most of these are listed here on eBay most of the time and the prices
don't change.

If you need one of these but don't see it listed, please send me an eBay
message and I will relist it on eBay for you, and I can also make a
special listing for you along with any other parts needed, which can
usually go with free combined shipping if the normal shipping is paid
for the overlay.

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Other brands:

Others have made drum machine and synthesizer overlays before Synhouse
came to the market in late 2017, and they're cheaper, too (as they
should be, with wrong colors, stripes and other details in the wrong
places, etc., well, sometimes they have been HIGHER than the Synhouse
price, like SP overlays for $160 then the price is cut in half to $80
saying he's losing $25/each because they cost $105 to make, and within a
year is back begging for ten guys to pay $99/each so he could make more,
sure seems strange that, after the Synhouse overlays are out, he wants
to do additional production at a loss of $6/each...), others something
like 100 Euros then price cut to 40 Euros, others have been offered for
less than 1/5th of the earlier price, going from $135 to $25). As an
added bonus, their prices CONTINUE to drop now that the superior
quality/detail Synhouse products are available, along with ever more
emphatic claims of "IMPOSSIBLE TO GET NOW.", "LAST ONES!", "RARE!",
"CLOSEOUT", "SELLING AT COST!", and "WON'T BE MADE AGAIN.".

Please allow me to say something about business that you may have
already figured out fifty years ago from the advertising of car dealers:
Any business that has a sales pitch that tells you in their advertising
what their actual cost is (the most closely guarded secret in business),
they are either 1) lying or 2) the village idiot, pick one (although I
will allow that BOTH may apply in the examples I am giving).

You can eBay search the items to look at completed listings, see even
more old eBay listings in web searches, and check the forums and other
websites, and see the pattern of price drops that have occurred because
of me. It sure is funny that the 2018-2019 price is lower than the
2013-2014 price was! Back here in the real world, MY suppliers certainly
haven't dropped prices, in just the past six months, some components and
materials have gone up 5%-10%, another one 100% (though that one is more
likely a temporary spot market price spike and will eventually come back
down about 80%). Thus far, one of the other overlay guys has dropped the
price 20%-80% and dropped the shipping 35% in frantic listings and
relistings with countless price and quantity changes, another has
dropped the price 38%.

Their sales pitch has changed: Before I existed as a competitor, they
were selling on quality. Now that I exist, they're selling on price.
That's the effect of the Synhouse quality. They're running for the exits.

So whether you get the superior Synhouse quality here or the huge
discounts coming from lower quality competitors running scared and
having clearance sales, you can thank me later.

On each eBay overlay seller, you can click to see the SELLER'S OTHER
ITEMS, then click to see completed listings, and see that the prices in
green are the ones that actually got a buyer, then use your pocket
calculator to add it all up and see that Synhouse sometimes sells more
in two days than the others have sold in two months.

Wrong details on other brands:

The gray-blue-gray-red stripes are wrong: The first time I saw that
Emulator II overlay set that's been selling since 2013, it looked wrong
to me, just different from the old one it was supposed to replace. The
main problem that catches the eye immediately when looking at it for the
first time is that the gray-blue-gray-red stripes atop each panel
section on the main panel are wrong. The stripes are too far apart. It
looks bad. For example, see where the broken red stripe seems to sit too
high and just run into the right side of the "l" in Master Control. And
compared to the stripes on the small Moog wheel panel, it just doesn't
match. This is no minor detail, it's a huge mistake in the design that
can be seen from ten feet away. You can see an example of this in the
eBay photos here.

The printing and cutting aren't properly aligned: The Emulator II Moog
wheel panel that goes along side the main panel basically looks correct
in a lot of ways, but the printing and cutting were out of alignment, it
varies greatly as you can see with the three examples in the eBay photos
here. On some pieces seen, the white pinstriped section isn't even
centered in the overlay, the light gray border on the left side is wider
than the one on the right side. That is to say that the artwork of the
Moog wheels panel overlay is off-center relative to the die cut edges of
the overlay. This is more evident on some pieces and less on others, so
it likely means the die cutting tool came down on top of the artwork in
different places from piece to piece.

Additionally, the die cutting is not correct. It is using a defective
die cutting tool (if they even have a die cutting tool at all) that cuts
it to the wrong shape and the wrong size, multiple Emulator II owners
have pointed this out. One used a laser cutting machine to try and
correct the cut, or at least as well as it could be done after the fact.
Another one re-cut it with tools, saying, it was "too big and I had to
cut it - which led to color peeling off from it.".

It would be easy to pinpoint a single problem if everything else were
correct, but almost everything is a little off.

Text in the wrong place: On the main panel overlay, a LOT of the text is
too far left. The word GAIN in the Sample section is so far left, it's
past the leftmost edge of the round hole for the potentiometer, and
while the right edge of the word SAMPLE is almost exactly in line with
the right edge of the switch hole above it on the old one, this one has
the word SAMPLE aligned with the LEFT side. In the Special---Disk
section, on the old one you can draw an imaginary straight line down
from the right edge of both of the switch holes, on the right that comes
down directly on the back left edge of the K in DISK 1 and DISK 2, but
on this one the text is too far left, just the same on the left side of
that same section, the right edge of the left switch hole goes right
down the back left edge of the P in CATALOG SPECIAL, where in this one
the entire P is to the left of that imaginary line. In the Enter
section, this is one place where E-mu had the word ENTER actually
centered under the switch hole, but on this one, it's misaligned, it's
way off to the left.

Diminished vertical light gray areas: This is so minor that it should
sound like nitpicking, but it's part of what makes it look wrong to the
eyes. On the main panel overlay, the light gray areas between the white
pinstriped sections are too narrow. In the vertical areas they are
barely wider than the white stripes themselves, where the old one (and
the Synhouse overlay) had gray areas that were 2.5 times the width of
the white pinstripes. This happens in six places, for example in the
light gray space between the Master Control and Sequencer sections.
Borders in most designs are usually uniform all the way around, so when
one part is far too narrow, it's going to be noticeable. The basic
Emulator II motif has sections of large dark blue and small light gray
boxed off with white pinstripes, and all of those sections are separated
by light gray areas. So, for example, if you look at the old overlay on
your Emulator II, the bottom where the Sequencer and Enter sections are
separated from each other and from the bottom edge of the overlay,
you'll see that the horizontal lower light gray part at the edge and the
vertical light gray part between those two sections are just about the
same width, and you can roughly measure with your eyes how wide they are
by comparing them to the uniform thickness of the white pinstripe (the
light gray area is approximately 2.5 times as wide as the white
pinstripe on either side of it). Now look at this one in the trash
design selling since 2013. The horizontal light gray area is twice as
wide as the vertical area! Again in this design, a 100% error from one
to another. The reason I'm using the Sequencer/Enter area as an example
is because the problem is worse there than in other areas and it will be
easier for you to see in the photos, because this crap design is
different all the way across. You'll see that your old one has vertical
light gray sections of the exact same width all the way across. This is
much like the problem below with the cutouts for the LEDs being in the
wrong place (actually, the printing design is in the wrong place, making
the LED that should be well into the dark blue area so high up that it
is touching the light gray area), I'm using the LED under Special as the
example, because it's the most noticeable there. And it's slightly less
noticeable on the other LEDs, probably because one or two of the
silkscreen tools is crooked, or because the die cutting tool is of poor
quality and bad accuracy.

Your eyes are used to seeing manufactured things that are straight and
uniform, so when you see this, it just looks wrong, even if you can't
tell immediately exactly what it is that is wrong. As if someone cut a
piece of plywood a little crooked on one or two of the edges, you
couldn't tell which edge was wrong or by how many degrees, but it's
straight or not straight, and you can tell that right away.

These vertical light gray areas are so narrow that it gives the whole
thing a wrong look. Since that dark blue area came out SO dark on that
one, the added problem of diminished vertical light gray areas just
gives the whole thing a darked-out look unlike the original which is
more two-toned in style.

LEDs appear to be in the wrong place due to graphics printed in the
wrong place: In the sections Enter---Real Time
Control---Special---Disk---Sample of your old Emulator II original
overlay, the LED holes are well into the dark blue section, but this one
selling since 2013 has the LED holes touching (on some) or almost
touching (on others, there's no precision at all in the manufacturing of
it and one piece varies from another) the light gray area. It's probably
not that the LED holes are in the wrong place, but rather that light
gray area is too large and comes down too far. It's hard to tell by eye,
because the main feature of that area is the gray-blue-gray-red stripes
atop each panel section, and those are totally screwed up, as noted above.

In general, there are imperfections in the spatial relationships of
everything. This is almost certainly because it's drawn on a computer
screen piece by piece by piece, lots of little bits of piecework put
together and moved around, and is not done globally. If you were able to
look at as a 3D transparency with it and a scan of the old one (and the
Synhouse Emulator II overlay as well, which is the same as the old one
because we do it this way, globally, viewed as a transparency) at once,
it might be that only the die cut LED and switch holes are in the
correct locations, and that ALL the graphics and text are in the wrong
places.

If this were a unique design for an original new product that no one had
ever seen before, it would be fine, it's generally well made of good
materials, is durable, and will give a long life of usage. But it's not.
The point of this product was to be an exact replacement, to look like
the old one, and to fit like the old one, and that's what it was falsely
claimed to be, and in that regard it has missed the mark on many, many
points of reference.

To the best of my knowledge, the location of each letter and graphic
detail on the Synhouse overlays is exactly the same as on the old one it
replaces. Even using the 3D transparency technique that we use, it's
almost impossible to find a single letter that is 0.25mm out of place.
If it were, we'd see it right away in most cases and fix it easily,
because we just work it until the new work seems to disappear behind the
old one because it's in exactly the same place as the old letters and
other details. It's plotted out globally at the same time in engineering
software like a circuit board, and all the text, colored areas, and
stripes are correctly located relative to the others. It's not just
drawn section by section in art software, then moving things around to
correct problems here and there, while ignoring the spatial
relationships between everything and everything else.

Doing a huge project piece by piece, then fixing it piece by piece, is
the kind of work that wears people down, and at the end, they are
letting mistakes pass because they are so fatigued they don't see it, or
so fatigued they don't want to see it, they just want to finish and be
done with it. This is where all the whining comes from, as seen on eBay
and other selling sites, and any forum that would have it, "These labels
took over 2 years to get right.....over a grueling 2 year project." and,
"These labels took over two years to painfully manufacture."

What is the level of competency of people who need "over 2 years" to
make a sticker? Do you think there are any sticker companies out there
that spend two years making a sticker, and tell their clients, "Yes,
we'll have this new sticker design ready for you in two years."? Do you
think E-mu and their overlay supplier spent over two years making this
overlay in the first place? I'll bet they didn't even spend two whole
days on the artwork. If I needed over two years to do something someone
else had already done in two days---and I still failed to get it
right---I would keep it to myself.

There's no precision in the design or manufacturing. It's sloppy. And if
using both pieces, it makes the instrument look bad, due to the totally
mismatched stripes noted above.

There's no excuse for all these mistakes, this item has been produced
incorrectly time and time again, with the most recent one announced
with, "Another short run of our beautiful E-MU (sic) Emulator II
reproduction...". It goes on with "These labels took over 2 years to get
right.....over a grueling 2 year project." and, "These labels took over
two years to painfully manufacture." Took over 2 years to get right?
They STILL aren't right, and it was wrong almost six years ago. So let's
say more like five years and still counting...

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Why all the criticism?

The reason I need to speak freely about the problems with the
replacement synthesizer and drum machine overlays is that so, so much
misinformation and just plain lies have been put out there year after
year since at least as far back as 2013, and NO ONE has challenged this
publicly and no one has set the record straight by providing correct
information.

Internet-using electronic musicians/collectors sometimes tend to put
everything they hear repeatedly into their memory bank, then use it as
criteria to judge things, even if they don't completely understand what
that criteria is and if it should be considered important or not. For
example, if someone were selling some type of kit year after year saying
that the screws are real copper, not steel, then another seller or two
started saying their screws were real copper, after a few years, someone
else selling something would constantly be asked if his screws were
"real copper"? When screws aren't supposed to be copper and people had
just been throwing that out there for years as a sales pitch.

One example with replacement drum machine/synthesizer overlays is with
sellers that always make claims about the material (that is probably
incorrect), and make claims about the old ones (that are ALWAYS
incorrect as far as I can tell), and, at once, they claim that theirs
are 1) the same materials/thickness as the old ones and 2) much better
than the old ones because they used improved materials. So which is it?
The same? Or better? And why?

One seller said "OEM quality", "10 mil Lexan just like the E-MU (sic)
originals!", and "10 mil velvet/matte Lexan". Another seller said,
"...this is an exact replacement made of the same 10mil Lexan E-mu
Systems used but with modern materials that will far outlast the
original.", "they are 10mil lexan (sic) sheets", and "The new overlays
have full 10mil of textured lexan (sic).".

One of the toughest and clearest types of plastic is polycarbonate. It
is used to make those raised orange reflective markers dividing the
lanes in the roadway, polycarbonate being the material of choice 1)
because it is incredibly tough and never brittle even in extreme cold,
and 2) because clear polycarbonate can be electroplated with chrome on
the inside, making a great reflector that can't be scratched off because
it's on the inside. Similarly, industrial nameplates made since the
early 1970s are very durable because they have the lettering and
graphics reverse printed on the underside, so it can't be scratched off
with normal wear from the top. Even though one of the 2014-on overlay
sellers has a sales pitch that makes it sound like he invented this
process for you, this is how all of the overlays on the old synths and
drum machines were made, although at least three versions had some of
the most minor colors (black lettering and white pinstripes) printed on
the top side and a (thin and not very long lasting) clear coat was put
over the top while the other 95% of it was printed on the bottom side.
High quality eyeglasses are often made of optical grade polycarbonate
for improved safety due to the incredible impact resistance of the material.

Polycarbonate was made famous in USA under the General Electric
trademarked brand name Lexan (that is a proper name that needs to be
capitalized, and there were other trademarked names from other companies
in Europe and elsewhere). American companies tend to get out of
businesses that have low profit margins by selling off those divisions.
Since countless companies around the world were able to make the same
thing, it just drove the average selling prices lower and lower.
Polycarbonate costs more than some plastics, but is cheaper than some
others, and compared to everything else, polycarbonate is cheaper now
than it has ever been. GE sold off the production of polycarbonate and
the trademarked name Lexan many years ago, and Lexan brand polycarbonate
is presently a trademark of a company in Saudi Arabia. I doubt that any
of these replacement overlay sellers are buying supplies from a Saudi
company, and if they persist in that claim, get them to show you the
packaging from the Saudi company.

It's been many years since the (GE) Lexan brand dominated the
polycarbonate market. Even back when I was working with R/C cars in the
early 80s and doing my first manufacturing projects in that field (yes,
I was designing and manufacturing 37 years ago), very little of the
polycarbonate used in R/C car bodies (because it would not crack, and it
was clear so you could paint it on the inside with flexible paint that
would really hold up) was made by GE, the companies that dominated the
market were foreign and definitely not using it. I can absolutely assure
you that Tamiya and Kyosho were not going to USA to buy Lexan from GE,
it was standard Japanese polycarbonate they were using. No one really
knows if the supplier to E-mu was using the GE brand back in 1984 or
not, I'd say it's not likely, but on the overlays used 1993-1998 on the
black reissue SP1200s, no way, the GE brand wasn't being used by almost
anyone, and E-mu probably never knew or cared either way because they
just had the overlays made by contract manufacturers who made that
decision for them (just as they did with circuit boards, board assembly,
wiring harnesses, and everything else, and why all those things once had
stickers on them with purchase order numbers on them, E-mu didn't issue
purchase orders to E-mu, they were ordered from subcontractors).

Point is, it's almost impossible that any of the "Lexan" are Lexan, so
that claim is most likely incorrect and false, and it wouldn't matter if
it were (even a skilled polymer engineer can't tell one polymer brand
from another), so it's irrelevant. If I'm wrong, purchase orders and
stacks and stacks of packaging from a Saudi company will be an
acceptable offer of proof. None so far...

As far as the (at least) two sellers selling "10mil lexan (sic)", 10 mil
is an American a thickness description (not to be confused with people
using metric milliliters and millimeters sometimes calling them both
"mil"). In America, "Mil" is the shortened version of mille, which is
Latin for thousand, so 10 mil is 10/1,000ths of an inch, or we might say
0.010" in a machine shop.

I have used synthesizers since 1980, and it never occurred to me to
wonder what the thickness of the overlays on synthesizers and drum
machines were. But subliminally, this "10 mil Lexan" mantra got into my
head seeing it on eBay and in the forums in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, and
2017 (and it still persists in 2019), and it was easy to assume it was
correct.

But it's not correct. I didn't make overlays all those years, in fact I
came across so many people selling them, it never occurred to me to make
overlays, as Synhouse doesn't make "me too" products. If others have it
covered reasonably well, there's nothing there for me. And I just
assumed I could buy whatever I needed when I wanted it, and I'm smart
enough to know that all the claims about "ONLY A FEW LEFT!" were total
bs, so I waited until I needed one. But I had a few SP-12s I had to sell
and a whole lot of SP1200s to sell, and most of them had ratty overlays.

Then when I was ready to buy, I got serious and started reading all
those ads in early 2017, reading them carefully for the first time. It
all seemed like crap, and I read all the ads that I could find in the
search engines back to 2013. That stuff was pathetic. I wouldn't put
that junk on any of my instruments I was keeping, nor on anything I was
trying to sell with my company name on it. The colors were wrong (fruity
blue SP-12s and almost black Emulator IIs), the items were defective
(scratches, ink blobs in the wrong places, text was missing, etc.), the
SP-12 logo was cartoonishly bloated and the clear window for the LCD was
missing (and the story about why it was missing was ridiculous), the
SP1200 dark gray was too shiny and much too dark and always showed
itself horribly when someone used a flash photo to sell their SP1200 on
eBay with a trash overlay, text was in the wrong places, LED holes were
in the wrong place, SP1200 LED windows were missing (instead replaced by
plain holes or by weird recessed portholes you can feel by scratching
with your finger).

I'd already made multiple overlay type products with very simple
graphics for my Synclav site Synclaviers and various New England Digital
peripherals (I don't usually sell them, I just install them during my
restorations because the old ones are damaged, darkened, yellowed, or
coming off on the edges), with very high quality automated factories, so
I knew this was something I could do a better job on than anyone else,
and probably more easily. It required a gigantic investment just to
start, because I knew that doing it the cheap T-shirt shop equipment way
everyone else had done produced bad quality, bad quality control, and a
self-liquidating business, and the new Synhouse overlay design and
production continued to require lots of money for most of six years, but
otherwise, it wasn't difficult for me to significantly surpass the
accuracy of details and the construction quality of every overlay that
existed before the Synhouse overlays first came out 11/21/2017 (or since).

Starting these overlay projects, I didn't presume anything about
anything and I wasn't going to base anything I did on the trash made by
others, so it was a project starting from scratch. Mostly I didn't have
to go out of pocket buying instruments just to take the overlays off to
use as a reference master, because I already have most of these machines
in my collection (250+ instruments), and some in such poor condition
that I was glad to rip them off and get a new one put on. I think I only
had to buy two machines in total for that, because the ones I had in my
collection in those cases were just too nice to shred for a project.

So we started the work of reproducing the overlays, and the engineers
specified the material for the first four overlay projects, and the
polycarbonate was specified at 15 mil. Not the "10 mil" we've all heard
so much about before, with people claiming that's so thick and so
costly. Two of my engineers had measured them all, and ALL of the E-mu
overlays for drum machines and keyboards were 15 mil thickness
polycarbonate. Sometimes I buy thinner material for Synclavier
peripherals, because that was what New England Digital, as they are
decorative stickers on panels that are never touched, some even behind a
grille (the main issue there is the high quality adhesive that won't
come off with years of heat). When I checked into it, it was confirmed
that all the overlays were 15 mil and they were all being made that way,
unless I wanted it done another way for some reason, and since 15 mil is
correct (and there is little difference in the cost, polycarbonate isn't
so expensive/profitable anymore, remember, that's why GE abandoned the
business they themselves invented).

So all of the Synhouse overlays sold on eBay for E-mu instruments are 15
mil polycarbonate. BTW, for a reference, the (usually gray, but
sometimes greenish or other colors) stiff insulation paper on top of
your SP-12/SP1200 panel PCB is 0.010" thick (10 mil), and if you compare
that thickness to your old overlay after you rip it off, you'll see the
paper is thinner than the Synhouse overlay.

Of all of the photos in all the eBay listings for Synhouse overlays,
none of them actually have the overlay peeled and stuck down, they were
just set down on top of a chassis that had no overlay on it, or on a
piece of plywood or cardboard, and I quickly snapped some photos. But
you can see that they lay down perfectly flat all the way around.
Overlays from another seller have been seen in photos where they can't
even sit flat on a smooth table, they are wavy and curled up on the
corners (if you don't believe it, send an eBay message to ask for it and
I'll send you a photo). Maybe the difference is the 50% thicker material
used in Synhouse overlays.

Since this is a bs spec that doesn't matter, I didn't bother mentioning
"15 mil" in the eBay listings for my first overlay in 11/2017, and I
didn't do it in many, many repeated listings of the next 8 overlay
designs from Synhouse. I didn't mention it until now, three years later,
as I had to, in order to dispel this phony superiority myth about "10
mil". If that makes it better than something else somewhere else, then
Synhouse are 50% better than anyone because they are 50% thicker
material. But I won't say it because it's stupid.

But thanks to years of nonsense talk and ads on eBay and in forums and
other sites, I still get people asking questions like, "How thick is
your overlay? Is it made of the same 'lexan' (sic) material?"

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About Synhouse and Synhouse synthesizer and drum machine overlays:

The construction details and quality of the Synhouse synthesizer and
drum machine overlays don't come easily; It requires multimillion-dollar
factories with automation and properly trained operators, and tens of
thousands of square feet of large-scale equipment. Any factory that
knows what they are doing and is properly automated and equipped is not
going to take an order for 10 stickers. Get serious. That wouldn't pay
for the time to set up the materials and equipment, much less the
materials themselves, the downtime of the equipment, or the tooling
cost. It wouldn't even pay for the wasted 2-part epoxy ink that is lost
during every production run setup and subsequent cleanup. I learned this
sort of thing the hard way 20 years ago. As such, I did what was needed
and more than 20 years ago I was making a robotically assembled
electronic product and shipping it to customers in 39 countries around
the world.

Synhouse has made a substantial investment to get into the production of
synthesizer and drum machine overlays and it shows in the construction
details (seamless textured LED windows on the SP1200 overlay, smooth
clear windows over the LCD on SP-12 [instead of a lie about how SP-12s
are not supposed to have a clear window over the LCD---when you know
very well that your SP-12 and every SP-12 you've ever seen in your life
had a clear window over the LCD, it's one of the top reasons people buy
the Synhouse SP-12 overlay with the clear LCD window, because the old
one was dented, scratched, perforated, kinked, or yellowed], and smooth
clear windows over the LCD on Emulator II overlays) and quality (2-part
epoxy screen print inks, different textures of polycarbonate substrate
materials, high strength peel and stick adhesive backings) and this
company will continue to prove itself over time with very, very high
quality goods shipped worldwide consistently for 22 years and counting.

You can buy this product from me now or you can wait and buy it one year
from today, your choice. It depends on when YOU want it, not on the
instability of the joker trying to sell it.

Synhouse Multimedia Corporation has been in business for 22 years and
has been manufacturing from day one. Synhouse existed for 4 years
informally before incorporation, and was only officially incorporated in
1999 when a huge amount of expense was going to be incurred in
manufacturing the first products, to ensure that the investment and
expense of the startup could be deducted and written down over the
course of many years, because there was no possibility of making money
in the first year of business. Over twenty years later, those first
products (the Synhouse Original MIDIJACK, MIDIJACK II, and Moogiestyle
MIDIJACK) are still being manufactured.