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Universal Generic Puller Set has many uses - to remove your Flywheel Magneto Rotor Dynamo Alternator Generator Stator Fly Wheel Balancer Steering Wheel and many other potential uses on motorcycle, go-kart, race kart, outboard motor, dirtbike engine, lawnmower, chainsaw, snowmobile, scooter, small engine, car, truck, jeep, old cars and much more.
What's included - See photos - NOTE: You MIGHT need different length of small hardware for your application - can easily be found at most hardware stores. Here is what you get though----
(1) 4⅛" 105mm Diameter Base
(1) 12mm Diameter 3¾" 95mm Long Center Bolt
(3) 8mm Bolts with Nuts & Washers
(3) 6mm Bolts with Nuts & Washers
(3) 25mm 1" Spacers
Nowhere else will you receive this much information about what you are buying. What you see/read here is exactly what you are getting. No guessing!
A vital tool for changing points on magneto-equipped engines
Removes flywheels without damaging crankshaft threads
Universal set removes flywheel for many models of snowmobile, watercraft, motorcycle, chain saw, lawn mower and Mercury outboard motor and many others
Works with most flywheels having three threaded holes for pullers around the center flywheel nut hole.
A must-have tool for any mechanic.
Main body of Puller has black oxide finish to assure many years of service.
This fits many brands and models.
For many Snowmobile, sxs small engine outboard motor boat atv, quad, dirtbike, motorcycle, kart and much more. Refer to your service manual for info.
International Shipping Available
- Keep in mind that overseas shipments take up to 7 weeks to arrive
(sometimes less.) There is no reliable live tracking of international shipments.
We appreciate your patience as we have no control over this. It all
depends on how quickly the postal service and customs take to do their
thing.
US Buyers:
Choose Expedited Shipping for the quickest domestic shipping we offer. I
do not recommend the cheapest shipping if you need an item within 12 days.
We have many more motorcycle motocross related tool puller and other specialty items in our other listings.
Tips on removing a powersport vehicle flywheel / rotor:
Flywheel
Pullers are essential engine service tools and they are used in a lot
of different jobs. We have a large selection of flywheel and rotor
pullers for just about any motorcycle or ATV, and this tool is one of
our most popular products. Most pullers are simple tools, usually
consisting of an outer body that attaches to the flywheel and a lead
screw to push on the crankshaft. Some pullers are just a hardened bolt
that threads into the flywheel. Virtually every flywheel or rotor is
attached to the crankshaft by a taper on the crank, which matches the
flywheel. Torque from the fixing bolt holds the flywheel securely on
the shaft.
Pulling a flywheel
or rotor looks easy enough. So what's the big deal? Well, sometimes it
isn't such an easy job. Corrosion, heat cycling, or over-torquing the
fixing bolt can make the flywheel difficult to remove. Many mechanics
resort to using a large breaker bar or air impact tools when a flywheel
won't come off easily. Try to avoid the temptation, because both of
these techniques are sure ways to damage the flywheel, the puller, or
even the crank, which is a very bad and expensive outcome.
There
are two simple tricks to employ when faced with a stubborn flywheel.
When do you know you have a stuck flywheel? With your handy-dandy
torque wrench, of course! The best way to remove a flywheel is to use a
torque wrench set to 50 ft-lbs. Most flywheels will come off with less
torque than this. If it does not come free at this level of torque,
don't just go crazy and put more torque on it. You will likely strip the
tool if you do this.
If you
have reached the 50 ft-lb limit, head back to your tool box and get a
good sized flat face steel hammer, like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer.
Many times a medium swing hammer blow to the flywheel puller will
deliver enough shock to jar the flywheel loose. To do this, use the
hammer to strike the end of the flywheel puller to shock it. Remember
to wear safety glasses and make sure that you have something to catch
the flywheel, as sometimes it can jump off the end of the crank when
you deliver the hammer blow. The last thing you want to do is damage
the flywheel if it falls on the floor.
If
the flywheel wont budge after striking it a few times with a hammer,
it's time to break out the big guns-the propane torch. When all else
fails, heating the flywheel can often do the trick. Applying heat to
the flywheel itself will expand it, while the greater mass of the crank
will stay cool and expand much more slowly. The differential in
expansion rates will help to loosen the flywheel from the crank. But
first, before you light the torch up, give the flywheel a good cleaning
to get off any oil or other flammable compounds. Also make sure to get
rid of any flammable liquids in the area, remove the gas tank and put
it away in a safe place away from the work area, and make sure that the
area you are working in is properly ventilated. The last thing you
want to do is set your bike, yourself, or your garage on fire. Once the
flywheel is clean and dry, and you have taken the proper precautions,
put on your safety goggles and gloves and fire up the torch. Apply heat
to the hub of the flywheel. One important point here: Only apply heat
to the center of the flywheel. Focus the flame of the torch, and don't
get it near the outer rim of the flywheel. Some flywheels use adhesive
or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be
damaged by concentrated heat, and some magnets can be damaged by
excessive heat as well. So concentrate the heat at the hub only. Once
again, be prepared to catch the flywheel if it pops off, but make sure
to wear gloves or other protection to avoid burning yourself on the hot
flywheel.
These two
techniques are all you really need to remove a stuck flywheel with a
minimum of effort. About the only situation that would resist these
procedures would be the flywheel on that ATV that you just pulled out
of the lake, where it had been sunk for 6 months. In THAT situation,
there is an old mechanic's joke, "R&R ATV."
For Overseas / International Buyers: You are responsible for your country's import / duty taxes and any other required import fees (if any.) US eBay Sellers have no way of knowing what these fees might be. None of this is in our control - nor is any delay in international shipping or Customs.