Up for auction a RARE! "Fashion Designer" Anne Fogarty Hand Signed 3.25X5.75 Card. Included is a vintage 8X10 B&W photo.
ES-1782
Anne Fogarty (February
2, 1919 – January 15, 1980) was an American fashion designer, active 1940–80,
who was noted for her understated, ladylike designs that were accessible to
American women on a limited income. She started out as a model in New York
in 1939, working for Harvey Berin on Seventh Avenue, before
studying fashion design. She eventually secured a full-time design job in 1948,
and became well-known for full-skirted designs with fitted bodices, inspired
by Dior's New Look. Fogarty's
clothes were easy to wear, practical, and made with casual fabrics, following
the American sportswear tradition.
She ran her own label from 1962 to 1974, and worked as a freelance designer
until her death. In 1959, Fogarty published a style manual, Wife
Dressing: The Fine Art of Being a Well-Dressed Wife, which emphasized
femininity, neatness, and always being suitably dressed as desirable qualities. Wife
Dressing was rediscovered in the early 21st century, and has become a
key resource for designers and fashion historians looking to explore the 1950s
ideology of ultra-feminine dressing. Anne Fogarty was born in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, to Robert and Marion Whitney, who
had immigrated from Cape Town, South Africa, in 1908. Her eldest sister,
Lillian, would become better known as the food writer Poppy Cannon, and there were a sister and a brother in
between. While in South Africa, Anne's parents had been called Robert and
Henrietta Gruskin, but had apparently changed their names at the time of their
immigration. Anne was passed her older sisters'
outgrown and cast-off clothes, which she remodeled to suit herself. She graduated from high school and
entered Allegheny College in
1936. The following year, she transferred to the Carnegie Institute of
Technology to study drama, as she wanted to be an actress. In
1939, after Poppy moved to New York City, Anne decided to follow her sister. While looking for acting work, she
became a model for Harvey Berin, a Seventh Avenue-based
womenswear manufacturer. Berin recognized Anne's talent after seeing her
responses to the clothes that his designers made using her as a model, and
offered to subsidize her training to be a fashion designer. Anne went to the East Hartman
School of Design, although she paid her own way. After
Harvey Berin, Anne worked as a model and designer for the Sheila Lynn company.
In 1940, she married the artist Thomas E. Fogarty. Although the marriage
eventually ended in divorce, Anne retained his surname professionally. She
modeled and worked as a stylist and publicist, including styling Rolls-Royce advertisements,
until, in 1948, she secured a design job for Youth Guild, a new
company that specialized in teenage fashion. While at Youth Guild,
Fogarty developed one of her signature looks, the tight-bodied dress with a
very full skirt worn over a stiffened nylon petticoat, influenced by Dior's New Look. As Fogarty
was a junior size 7, with her small 22-inch waist and modeling experience, she
was able to wear and show her own designs to advantage. Some of her
dresses were featured in a double-page spread in Harper's Bazaar. In 1950, Fogarty was offered a
design job at Margot Dresses, a company specializing in junior
fashion. She worked there for seven years, designing not just dresses, but
accessories, lingerie and outerwear. In 1957, Fogarty moved to Saks Fifth Avenue, where she was one of the main designers. She
launched her own firm, Anne Fogarty Inc., in 1962, and in the
mid-1960s, launched several spin-off labels including A.F. Boutique, Collector's
Items by Anne Fogarty, and Clothes Circuit. She retired in 1974
and closed her business. Despite this, she worked up until her death as a
free-lance designer, with her last collection created for Shariella
Fashions in 1980. Fogarty did not follow the latest fashion fads, but
focused on staple, stylish designs. She was a disciplined designer whose
clothes were designed to be versatile and easy to wear. Her designs were rarely
trimmed as she focused instead on good cut and silhouette, and she favored
casual fabrics such as flannel, velveteen, printed cotton, denim and linen, which appealed to
a younger audience. In 1954, she designed her first shirtdress, a combination of a masculine shirt extending into
a full skirt worn over multiple petticoats. This became one of her favorite
designs. One of her most successful designs, a high-waisted dress with a
full skirt and scooped neckline, has been
described as the "Paper Doll" dress and was available in both day and
evening versions. However, the fashion historian Caroline Rennolds Milbank states
that the "paper-doll" silhouette describes Fogarty's earliest
full-skirted designs. In the mid-1950s, in addition to her full-skirted
designs, which always had separate crinoline petticoats for ease of movement and traveling,
Fogarty developed new slimline designs such as the fitted sheath dress. She is also credited with being one of the
first American fashion designers to market the bikini. In 1960,
Fogarty offered casual sportswear including
dresses with removable waistcoats to alter their look, and coat-and-dress sets
in boldly contrasting colors. During the 1960s she produced A-line dresses
and, after the miniskirt became established, designed peasant-inspired dresses
in both mini- and maxi-lengths. Her new favorite silhouette, replacing full
skirts, was the straight-skirted, high-waisted Empire line dress with tiny puff sleeves and low
neckline. Her designs in the later 1960s and 1970s became quite
adventurous, including trouser suits and caftans. In 1971 she designed midriff tops paired with
wrap skirts, and knickerbockers paired with pinafores, alongside more
conservative designs such as flounced maxi dresses and taffeta and satin
shirtdresses. She also offered hotpants ensembles with long skirts and ruffled blouses. Fogarty
won a number of awards for her design work. In 1951 she was awarded a Merit
Award from Mademoiselle magazine and a Bonwit Teller award, and received a special Coty Award for the "prettiest dresses". The
following year, Fogarty won a Neiman Marcus Fashion
Award and received an award from the Philadelphia Fashion
Group. In 1955 she received an honor from the International Silk Association
and in 1957, won a Cotton Fashion Award. Following the Cotton Fashion
Award ceremony, a fashion show showing Fogarty's Summer collection for that
year was held. Called "Goldfish Safari," it presented cotton
daywear, activewear, cocktail and evening wear in goldfish colors designed
especially for travel and holiday wear. At the time, Fogarty said of her work: