Kaufen* können Sie hier:
einen
wunderschönen
goldenen
im Stil der 1980er Jahre
EIGHTIES STYLE
Der Ring ist aus 585er Gold und auch so gepunzt.
Zustätzlich ist nach die Zahl 30 angegeben, die für das Carat-Gewicht stehen könnte.
Meines Erachtens ist das Gewicht des Diamanten aber geringer.
Überr das gewölbte Band des Ringes ziehen sich
diagonal zwei Schienen am Brillant vorbei und
lenken so die Aufmerksamkeit auf den Stein.
Ein schöner, unaufdringlicher Ring, tragbar bei allen Gelegenheiten,
im Büro, in Freizeit und und beim Sport und
auch zum kleinen Schwarzen vorzüglich.
Alt und getragen, aber sehr guter Zustand!
Siehe Fotos, die wesentlicher Teil der Artikelbeschreibung sind!
(06050619-NEG240403-265)
Details:
Größe: Durchmesser ca. 19 mm, Ringkopf ca. 6 mm breit
Material: Gold (14-karätig), Diamant
Punze: 585 + 30 ?
Gewicht: ca. 2,65 Gramm
Zustand: getragen, aber sehr guter Zustand, siehe die Fotos, die wesnelticher Teil meiner Artikelbeschreibung sind!
*Zum Verkauf steht nur, was auch ausdrücklich in der Artikelbeschreibung erwähnt und beschrieben ist. Alles andere (Dosen, Deckchen, Fotos etc.) dient nur der Dekoration!
Die Fotos zeigen z.T. starke Vergrößerungen. Vieles, was Sie da sehen (Staub, minimalste Haarkratzer), ist , mit bloßem Auge wirklich überhaupt nicht zu sehen!
Wiki:
Fashion of the 1980s was characterized
by a rejection of 1970s fashion. Punk fashion began as a reaction against both
the hippie movement of the past decades and the materialist values of the
current decade.[2] The first half of the decade was relatively tame in
comparison to the second half, which was when apparel became very bright and
vivid in appearance.
Hair in the 1980s was typically big,
curly, bouffant and heavily styled. Television shows such as Dynasty helped
popularize the high volume bouffant and glamorous image associated with
it.[3][4] Women in the 1980s wore bright, heavy makeup. Everyday fashion in the
1980s consisted of light-colored lips, dark and thick eyelashes, and pink or
red rouge (otherwise known as blush).[5][6]
Some of the top fashion models of the
1980s were Brooke Shields, Christie Brinkley, Gia Carangi, Joan Severance, Kim
Alexis, Carol Alt, Yasmin Le Bon, Renée Simonsen, Kelly Emberg, Inès de La
Fressange, Tatjana Patitz, Elle Macpherson, and Paulina Porizkova.[citation
needed]
Minimalism
The early 1980s witnessed a backlash against the brightly colored disco
fashions of the late 1970s in favor of a minimalist approach to fashion, with
less emphasis on accessories. In the US and Europe, practicality was considered
just as much as aesthetics. In the UK and America, clothing colors were
subdued, quiet and basic; varying shades of brown, tan, cream, and orange were
common.[7]
Fashionable clothing in the early 1980s included unisex and
gender-specific attire. Widespread fashions for women in the early 1980s
included sweaters (including turtleneck, crew neck, and v-neck varieties);
fur-lined puffer jackets; tunics; faux-fur coats; velvet blazers; trench coats
(made in both fake and real leather);[7] crop tops; tube tops; knee-length
skirts (of no prescribed length, as designers opted for choice); loose, flowy,
knee-length dresses (with high-cut and low-cut necklines, varying sleeve
lengths, and made in a variety of fabrics including cotton, silk, satin, and
polyester); high-waisted loose pants; embroidered jeans; leather pants; and
designer jeans,[7][8][9] though jeans were not as widely worn as during the
1970s.[10] Women's pants of the 1980s were, in general, worn with long inseams,
and by 1982 the flared jeans of the 70s had gone out of fashion in favor of
straight leg trousers. Continuing a trend begun during the late 1970s, cropped
pants and revivals of 1950s and early '60s styles like pedal-pushers and Capri
pants were popular.[11] 1981 saw a brief fall vogue for knickers.[12]
From 1980 until 1983, popular women's accessories included thin belts,
knee-high boots with thick kitten heels, sneakers, jelly shoes (a new trend at
the time),[13] mules, round-toed shoes and boots, jelly bracelets (inspired by
Madonna in 1983),[14] shoes with thick heels, small, thin necklaces (with a
variety of materials, such as gold and pearls), and small watches.[7]
Aerobics craze
The fitness craze of the 1970s continued into the early 1980s. General
women's street-wear worn in the early 1980s included ripped sweatshirts,[15]
tights, sweatpants,[16] and tracksuits (especially ones made in velour).[7]
Athletic accessories were a massive trend in the early 1980s, and their
popularity was largely boosted by the aerobics craze. This included leg
warmers, wide belts,[16] elastic headbands, and athletic shoes known as
'sneakers' in the US[17] or 'trainers' in the UK.[18]
Increased Formality
Continuing a trend begun by designers in 1978,[19][20] the early 1980s
also saw a return to pre-sixties ideas of formality,[21][22] with coordinated
suits,[23] occasion dressing like forties-fifties-revival cocktail dresses and
ballgowns, and even a revival of hats and gloves,[24][25] though neither was
required for women as they had once been.[26] This was just one trend among
many of the era. Along with this went an increased prevalence of black being
worn,[27] a trend that can be traced both to high-fashion designers[28] and to
late seventies punk fashions and their successors.[29] Black would continue to
be prominent in fashion into the early nineties.[30]
Professional fashion
In the 1970s, more women were joining the work force, so, by the early
1980s, working women were no longer considered unusual. As a way to proclaim
themselves as equals in the job market, women started to dress more seriously
at work. Popular clothes for women in the job market include knee-length
skirts, wide-legged slacks, a matching blazer, and a blouse of a different
color. Kitten-heeled shoes were often worn.[7] Formal shoes became more
comfortable during this period in time, with manufacturers adding soles that
were more flexible and supportive.[31] The shoes with moderately spiked heels
and relatively pointy toes from the very late 1970s remained a fashion trend.
Mid-1980s (1983–1986)
Women's fashion in the early 1980s became more colorful around 1982.
This included long wool coats, long flared skirts, slim miniskirts, slightly
tapered pants and stirrup ones, designer jeans,[8] spandex cycling shorts,[32]
high waisted ankle length jeans and pants plain or pleated, extremely long and
bulky sweaters, jumpsuits, pastel colors, "off-the-shoulder"
sweatshirts over tight jeans, leather trenchcoats, fur coats, extremely large
scarves, beanies, leather gloves, and dresses worn with wide or thin belts. The
aerobics craze of the early 1980s continued into the mid-1980s, but the clothes
became more colorful than they were before.
Women's shoes of the mid-1980s included strappy sandals, kitten-heeled
sandals, pumps, ballet flats, boat shoes, slouchy flat boots, Keds, and white
Sperry's sneakers.[7]
In the 1980s, rising pop star Madonna proved to be very influential to
female fashions. She first emerged on the dance music scene with her
"street urchin" look consisting of short skirts worn over leggings,
necklaces, rubber bracelets, fishnet gloves, hairbows, long layered strings of
beads, bleached, untidy hair with dark roots, headbands, and lace ribbons. In
her "Like a Virgin" phase, millions of young girls around the world
emulated her fashion example that included brassieres worn as outerwear, huge
crucifix jewelry, lace gloves, tulle skirts, and boytoy belts.
Gloves (sometimes laced or fingerless) were popularized by Madonna, as
well as fishnet stockings and layers of beaded necklaces. Short, tight Lycra or
leather miniskirts and tubular dresses were also worn, as were cropped
bolero-style jackets. Black was the preferred color. With the new fashion's
most extreme forms, young women would forgo conventional outer-garments for
vintage-style bustiers with lacy slips and several large crucifixes. This was
both an assertion of sexual freedom and a conscious rejection of prevailing
androgynous fashions.
Many of the clothes worn by pop stars like Madonna during this period
had their origins on the streets of London[33] or came from London
designers,[34] as London retained the trend-setting reputation it had regained
during the late seventies punk period with the work of Vivienne Westwood. In
1983–84, London designers like Katharine Hamnett, PX, BodyMap,[35] and Crolla
came to international attention,[36] launching trends later picked up by savvy
designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier[37] in other fashion capitals, savvy pop
figures like Madonna, and ultimately the general public.[38][39] Many of the
clothes worn by Madonna in 1983-85 – tube skirts, oversized tops, "Boy
Toy" belt buckles, head wraps, and flat, black, buckled, pointy-toed ankle
boots – were from avant-garde UK designers like PX,[40] BodyMap,[41] and Peter
Fox. The most internationally recognizable styles to come out of this milieu
were probably the large, tapestry-like floral prints from Crolla and the
oversized "message shirts" with large block lettering from Katharine
Hamnett. Crolla's giant cabbage rose prints, modeled after old chintz drapery
fabric[42] and needlework, seemed ubiquitous in 1984 and '85, initially shown
by the designer on sixties-revival Nehru jackets[43] and avant-garde UK street
silhouettes like oversized sweaters and ankle-length tube skirts but soon
picked up by Jean-Paul Gaultier in Paris and, before long, mass-marketed
everywhere,[44][45] especially popular in drop-waist, bertha-collared,
puff-sleeved dresses to the lower calf put out by companies like Laura Ashley
and worn with matching large hair bows on the back of the head. Katharine
Hamnett's graphic "message shirts," oversized white t-shirts with
big, black, block lettering spelling out social and political messages opposing
military buildup, supporting the environment, and other messages less clear,
became iconic garments of the period, with Hamnett famously wearing an
anti-nuclear one in the presence of Margaret Thatcher.[46] Her "Choose
Life" one, originally intended as a pro-environment message by the UK
designer, was ironically picked up by supporters of the new anti-abortion
movement in the US that had newly branded itself "pro-life" under
Reagan's influence, a use Hamnett strongly opposed.
Power dressing
The television prime time shows Dallas and, in particular, Dynasty
influenced increasingly oversized shoulder pads. Shoulder pads, popularized by
Joan Collins and Linda Evans from the soap opera Dynasty were popular from the
mid-1980s to the early 1990s. Dallas, however, promoted displays of wealth
involving jewelry and sparkling clothing.[47] Meanwhile, women's fashion and
business shoes revisited the pointed toes and spiked heels that were popular in
the 1950s and early 1960s. Some stores stocked canvas or satin covered fashion
shoes in white and dyed them to the customer's preferred color, preferably
bright colors.
By this period, women had become much more confident in the workplace
and had advanced in their careers. In this decade, women wanted to fit into
higher management levels by emulating a masculine appearance through fashion to
look more capable. Hence, they would wear empowering garments that portrayed
masculinity, thus making them seem more professional by fitting in with the
male majority. This would be accomplished with attributes such as wider
shoulders with the aid of padding and larger sleeves.[48] Other items included
dresses worn with skinny or thick belts, pleated or plain skirts, tights or
pantyhose, above the ankle length pants sometimes worn with pantyhose or tights
underneath, ballet flat dress shoes, long sweaters, boat shoes and slouchy flat
short length boots.
After the western economic boom of the mid-1980s, the younger generation
had a decreased influence in fashion as they had less of an impact on the
market.[49] The main consumer became the older generations that were more
financially stable and were influenced by international political news.
Thatcherism was promoted in the UK by the British Conservative Party. The
female leader of the British conservative party, Margaret Thatcher, in her
power suit quickly became one of the most well-known symbols of the 1980s.
Suits worn by Thatcher were usually single color toned with a matching hat,
jacket and skirt, that ends below the knee. A wide shoulder and pearl necklace
was also part of her regular attire. Her political style was straightforward,
effective and sometimes criticized as not empathetic enough. But there is no
doubt that her appearance portrayed her ability, power and authority, which is
what a lot of working women at that era desired.[50][51]
Late 1980s (1987–1989)
Consumer-friendly fashions
From 1987 until the early 1990s, the mini skirt was the only length
supported by fashion designers. Although skirts of any length were acceptable
to wear in the years before, all attention was given to the short skirt,
especially among teenage girls and young women worn with tights, pantyhose,
leggings, or slouch socks. Shoulder pads became increasingly smaller.[7]
Accessories popular in Britain, France and America included bright-colored
shoes with thin heels, narrow multicolored belts, berets, lacy gloves, beaded
necklaces, and plastic bracelets.[7]
Women's apparel in the late 1980s included jackets (both cropped and
long), coats (both cloth and fake fur), reversible inside-out coats (leather on
one side, fake fur on the other), rugby sweatshirts,[7] sweater dresses,
taffeta and pouf dresses, baby doll dresses worn with capri leggings or bike
shorts, slouch socks, and Keds or Sperrys or with opaque tights and flats or
opaque tights and slouch socks, neon or pastel colored shortalls, denim
pinafore dresses, Keds, Sperrys, ballet flats, jumpsuits, oversized or extra
long t-shirts, sweaters, sweatshirts, blouses and button down shirts popularly
worn with leggings and stirrup pants, miniskirts, stretch pants, tapered pants,
high waisted ankle length jeans and pants plain or pleated skirts worn with
leggings,[52][53] dressed up leggings outfit of leggings with an oversized
v-neck sweater over a turtleneck, slouch socks, Keds (shoes) or Sperrys, and
bangs with a headband or ponytail and scrunchie, happy pants (homemade pants
made in bold designs with bright colors), and opaque tights.[7] Popular colors
included neon hues, plum, gold, pinks, blues and bright wines.
Asian fashion
In Mainland China, the unisex Zhongshan suit[54] declined after the
death of Mao Zedong,[55] the removal of the Gang of Four, and the
liberalisation of trade links and international relations during the mid and late
'80s. Wealthier Chinese women began wearing Western inspired fashions
again,[56] including red or yellow miniskirts[57] in addition to the more
typical shirt dresses, white plimsolls and dacron blouses.[58]
The late 1980s also witnessed the beginnings of Indo Western fashion and
the haute couture fashion in India that would eventually gain global
recognition in the 90s. Colors like red and white[59] were popular, often with
intricate embroidery. Although most women continued to wear the saree,
Bollywood actresses also had access to Western designer outfits and locally
designed garments like the Anarkali ballgown.[60]
Japanese fashion designers Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Issey
Miyake started a new school of fashion during the late 1980s[61] called
"Japanese Avant-Garde Fashion", which combined Asian cultural
inspiration with mainstream European fashion. The Japanese spirit and culture
that they presented to Europeans caused a fashion revolution in Europe which
continued to spread worldwide.[62] Yamamoto, Kawakubo and Miyake redefined the
concepts of deconstruction and minimalism that were used in fashion design
worldwide[63] by pioneering monochromatic, androgynous, asymmetrical, and baggy
looks.[64] Additionally, the designs were unisex which were inspired by the
design of traditional Japanese kimono. According to Sun, "Traditional
Japanese kimonos don't have strict rules for menswear or women's wear,
therefore, for the basic style, kimonos have similar style and decoration for
men and women".[63] Geometric diamond patterns, horizontal stripes,
crinolines, layered kimono inspired blouses, dresses made from a single piece
of fabric,[65] drop crotch Thai fisherman pants, space age inspired laser cut
outfits, mesh, jackets with kanji motifs, and monochromatic black and white
outfits were common, as was the use of the traditional Japanese colors red,
mizudori and sora iro.[66][unreliable source?] In The Japanese Revolution in
Paris Fashion, Kawamura describes this new concept: "[...] traditionally
in Japanese society, sexuality is never revealed overtly, and this ideology is
reflected in the style of kimono, especially for women, these avant-garde
designers reconstructed the whole notion of women's clothing style; thus they
do not reveal sexuality, but rather conceal it just like the kimono".[67][unreliable
source?] The three designers set the stage for the beginning of postmodern
interpretation on the part of those who design clothes that break the boundary
between the West and the East, fashion and anti-fashion, and modern and anti-modern.[67]
Men's fashion
Early 1980s (1980–1982)
Athletic clothing
In the early 1980s, fashion had moved away from the unkempt hippie look
and overdressed disco style of the late 1970s. Athletic clothes were more
popular than jeans during this period, as were more subdued colors. Popular
colors were black, white, indigo, forest green, burgundy, and different shades
of browns, tans, and oranges. Velour, velvet, and polyester were popular
fabrics used in clothes, especially button-up and v-neck shirts. Looser pants
remained popular during this time, being fairly wide but straight, and tighter
shirts were especially popular, sometimes in a cropped athletic style. The
general public, at this time, wanted to wear low-maintenance clothing with more
basic colors, as the global recession going on at the time kept extravagant
clothes out of reach.[7] Also worn were striped tube socks sometimes worn with
the top folded over worn with shorts. It was not uncommon to see parents
especially fathers wearing these along with their kids.
Popular clothing in the early 1980s worn by men included tracksuits,[68]
v-neck sweaters, polyester and velour polo-neck shirts, sports jerseys,
straight-leg jeans, jeans rolled to show off their slouch socks, polyester
button-ups, cowboy boots,[69] beanies, and hoodies. Around this time it became
acceptable for men to wear sports coats and slacks to places that previously
required a suit.[7] In the UK, children's trousers remained flared, but only
slightly.
New wave influence
From the early to mid-1980s, post-punk and new wave music groups
influenced mainstream male and female fashion. Commercially made slim-fitting
suits, thin neckties in leather or bold patterns, striped T-shirts, Members
Only jackets, clubwear, metallic fabric shirts, cat eye glasses, horn rim
glasses with brightly colored frames, androgynous neon colored makeup,[70] and
pristine leather jackets were widely worn.[71] Common hairstyles included a
short quiff for men, or teased big hair for women, and typical unisex colors
for clothing included turquoise, teal, red, neon yellow and white on a blue
screen.
Preppy look
In response to the punk fashion of the mid-late 1970s,[9] there was a
throwback to the 1950s Ivy League style. This revival came to be definitively
summarized in an enormously popular paperback released in 1980: The Official
Preppy Handbook. Popular preppy clothing for men included Oxford shirts,
sweaters, turtlenecks, polo shirts with popped collars,[9] khaki slacks, argyle
socks, dress pants, Hush Puppies Oxford shoes, Sperrys boat shoes, Eastland
boat shoes, brogues, suspenders, seersucker or striped linen suits, corduroy,
and cable knit sweaters that were often worn tied around the shoulders.[72]
Mid-1980s (1983–1986)
In the mid-1980s, popular trends included wool sport coats, Levi 501s,
Hawaiian shirts, shell suits, hand-knit sweaters, sports shirts, hoodies,
flannel shirts, reversible flannel vests, jackets with the insides quilted,
nylon jackets, gold rings, spandex cycling shorts,[32] cowboy boots,[69]
Sperrys boat shoes, Sperrys white sneakers, Eastland boat shoes, khaki pants
with jagged seams,[7] and through the end of the decade high waisted ankle
length jeans and pants plain or pleated.
The mid-1980s brought an explosion of colorful styles in men's clothing,
prompted by television series such as Miami Vice and Magnum, P.I.. This
resulted in trends such as t-shirts underneath expensive suit jackets with
broad, padded shoulders, Hawaiian shirts (complemented with sport coats, often
with top-stitched lapels for a "custom-tailored" look), and (in
counterpoint to the bright shirt) jackets that were often gray, tan, rust or
white. Easy-care micro-suede and corduroy jackets became popular choices,
especially those with a Western style.
Michael Jackson was also a big influence of teenage boys' and young
men's fashions, such as matching red/black leather pants and jackets, white
gloves, sunglasses and oversized, slouch shouldered faded leather jackets with
puffy sleeves.
Power dressing
1940s inspired pinstripe suit with
large shoulder pads and double breasted fastening. These "power
suits" were fashionable in Britain from the early 1980s until the late
1990s.
Men's business attire saw a return of pinstripes for the first time
since the 1970s. The new pinstripes were much wider than in 1930s and 1940s
suits but were similar to the 1970s styles. Three-piece suits began their
decline in the early 1980s and lapels on suits became very narrow, akin to that
of the early 1960s. While vests (waistcoats) in the 1970s had commonly been
worn high with six or five buttons, those made in the early 1980s often had
only four buttons and were made to be worn low.[73][74] The thin ties briefly
popular in the early '80s were soon replaced by wider, striped neckties,
generally in more conservative colors than the kipper ties of the '70s. Double
breasted suits inspired by the 1940s were reintroduced in the 1980s by
designers like Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, and Anne Klein.[73][74] They were
known as 'power suits', and were typically made in navy blue, charcoal grey or
air force blue.[73][74][75]
Tropical clothing
As an alternative to the power suit, the safari jacket, Nehru suit and
Mao suit remained popular in Australia, South Africa, India, China, and Zaire,
where it was known as an Abacost[76] and worn with a leopard print hat
resembling the Astrakhan cap. At the same time, young African dandies known as
sapeurs rebelled against the post-decolonisation government's suppression of
Western fashions[77] by investing in expensive designer suits from Italy and
France and listening to the soukous music of Papa Wemba.[78] This continued
until the kleptocratic dictator Mobutu's deposition and death in the late
1990s, when the outbreak of a civil war in Zaire resulted in the sapeurs'
disappearance until the 2010s.[79]
In Hawaii, Aloha shirts and Bermuda shorts were worn on Aloha Fridays.
By the end of the decade, when the custom of casual Fridays had spread to the
US mainland, this outfit had become acceptable as daily Hawaiian business
wear.[80] Elsewhere in the Caribbean and Latin America, especially Mexico,
Ecuador, Colombia,[81] and Cuba, men wore the guayabera shirt for semi-formal
occasions in imitation of the presidents Fidel Castro and Luis Echeverria.[82]
Late 1980s (1987–1989)
Doc Martens
Dr. Martens boots
Doc Martens were dark shoes or boots with air-cushioned soles that were
worn by both sexes in the 1980s. Originally picked up as essential item by
early 70's Skinheads the Cherry Red 8 lacehole boots they were an essential
fashion accessory for the suedehead and punk subcultures in the United Kingdom.
Sometimes Doc Martens were paired with miniskirts or full, Laura Ashley- style
dresses.[83] They were an important feature of the post-punk 1980s Gothic look
which featured long, back-combed hair, pale skin, dark eyeshadow, eyeliner, and
lipstick, black nail varnish, spiked bracelets and dog-collars, black clothing
(often made of gabardine), and leather or velvet trimmed in lace or fishnet
material. Corsets were often worn by girls. British bands that inspired the
gothic trend include The Cure, Siouxsie and the Banshees, and The Cult. This
trend would return in the 1990s.
Parachute pants
Main article: Parachute pants
Parachute pants are a style of
trousers characterized by the use of ripstop nylon or extremely baggy cuts. In
the original tight-fitting, extraneously zippered style of the late 1970s and
early 1980s, "parachute" referred to the pants' synthetic nylon
material. In the later 1980s, "parachute" may have referred to the
extreme bagginess of the pant. These are also referred to as "Hammer"
pants, due to rapper MC Hammer's signature style. Hammer pants differ from the
parachute pants of the 1970s and early 1980s. They are typically worn as
menswear and are often brightly colored. Parachute pants became a fad in US
culture in the 1980s as part of an increased mainstream popularity of
breakdancing.[84]
Unisex accessories
Jewelry
Princess Diana, 1985
Earrings became a mainstream fashion for male teenagers. Jelly or thin
metal bracelets (also known as bangles) were very popular in the 1980s, and
would be worn in mass quantities on one's wrist. Designer jewelry, such as
diamonds and pearls, were popular among many women, not only for beauty, but as
symbols of wealth and power.
Watches
At the beginning of the decade, digital watches with metal bands were
the dominant fashion. They remained popular but lost some of their status in
later years. Newer digital watches with built-in calculators and primitive data
organizers were strictly for gadget geeks. Adult professionals returned to dial
watches by mid-decade. Leather straps returned as an option. By the late 1980s,
some watch faces had returned to Roman numerals. In contrast, one ultramodern
status symbol was the Movado museum watch. It featured a sleek design with a
single large dot at twelve o'clock. The Tank watch by Cartier was a fashion
icon that was revived and frequently seen on Cartier advertisements in print.
Rolex watches were prominently seen on the television show Miami Vice. Teen
culture preferred vibrant plastic Swatch watches. These first appeared in
Europe, and reached North America by the mid-1980s. Young people would often
wear two or three of these watches on the same arm.[citation needed]
Eyewear
In the first half of the 1980s, glasses with large, plastic frames were
in fashion for both men and women. Small metal framed glasses made a return to
fashion in 1984 and 1985, and in the late 1980s, glasses with tortoise-shell
coloring became popular. These were smaller and rounder than the type that was
popular earlier in the decade. Throughout the 1980s, Ray-Ban Wayfarers were
extremely popular, as worn by Tom Cruise in the 1983 movie Risky
Business.[citation needed]
Miami Vice, in particular Sonny Crockett played by Don Johnson, boosted
Ray-Ban's popularity by wearing a pair of Ray-Ban Wayfarers (Model L2052, Mock
Tortoise),[85] which increased sales of Ray Bans to 720,000 units in 1984.[86]
Subcultures of the 1980s
English singer Siouxsie Sioux wearing
black clothing, back-combed hair, and heavy black eyeliner. She was an
inspiration for the gothic fashion trend that started in the early 1980s.
Robert Smith of the Cure based his gothic
look from Siouxsie Sioux's and being a guitarist in her band.
Heavy metal
Main article: Heavy metal fashion
In the first half of the 1980s, long hair, leather rocker jackets (biker
jackets) or cut-off denim jackets, tight worn-out jeans, and white, high
trainers (sneakers) and badges with logos of favorite metal bands were popular
among metalheads, and musicians of heavy metal and speed metal bands. However,
by the mid-1980s the success of the glam metal scene had influenced the style
worn by many mainstream metal fans. In addition to the traditional denim and
leather look, mainstream heavy metal bands began to dress in more bright,
colourful and theatrical clothing similar, in many ways, to the glam rock look
of the 1970s. This included items such as spandex, platform boots, leg warmers
and many different types of often spiked or studded leather accessories. In
addition to this the long hair popular with metal fans was often worn teased.
Makeup became popular with many metal bands as well often worn onstage for
theatricality however many bands also began wearing makeup offstage also. The
mainstream glam metal image of the mid- to late 1980s was often criticised by
many underground metal fans as being too 'effeminate'. The mainstream glam
metal (later called 'hair' metal) style would decline during the later half of
the decade but would remain popular until the grunge movement in the early
1990s. In the second half of the 1980s, the original denim and leather clothing
style was popular among musicians and fans of more extreme and niche (often
underground) metal bands – thrash metal, crossover thrash, early black metal,
and early death metal bands. It was popular particularly in the United States,
but there were also large regional scenes in Germany, England, Canada, and
Brazil. Although these styles of extreme metal would begin to adopt contrasting
images during the ensuing decade.
By the late 1980s, acid-washed jeans and denim jackets had become
popular with both sexes. Acid washing is the process of chemically bleaching
the denim, breaking down the fiber of material and forcing the dye to fade,
thus leaving undertones of the original dye evidenced by pale white streaks or
spots on the material. This became associated with the afformentioned heavy metal
trend (called "hair metal" in later decades for the large frizzy
coiffures worn by both male and female enthusiasts). Severely bleached and
ripped jeans, either manufactured purposely or done by hand, become a popular
fashion trend, being a main component of glam metal music acts such as Poison.
The Japanese equivalent of glam metal, known as visual kei, emerged
during the mid- to late 1980s and incorporated punk, goth and new wave
influences.[87] Brightly dyed, androgynous hair was common among shock rock
bands like X Japan, together with studded leather borrowed from fetish fashion,
traditional Geisha or Japanese opera inspired makeup, drag,[88] and stylized
18th century fop rock costume such as frilly shirts, tall boots and long
coats.[89]
Punk
Punk rock band Los Violadores in 1985.
Main article: Punk fashion
Throughout the 1980s, the punk style was popular among people aged
18–22. Characterized by multi-colored mohawks, ripped stovepipe jeans, worn
band tee-shirts, and denim or leather jackets. This style was popular among
people who listened to punk music such as The Sex Pistols, and later, (despite
the band's self-proclaimed rock'n'roll image) Guns N' Roses. Usually the denim
jackets (which became an identity of the group) were adorned by safety pins,
buttons, patches, and several other pieces of music or cultural memorabilia.
Oftentimes, fans of the punk style would take random bits of fabric and attach
them to their other clothes with safety pins. This soon became a popular way of
attaching clothing, and it is now known as "pin shirts" with young
women. The shirts are, essentially, rectangular pieces of fabric that are
pinned on one side with safety pins. In the 1980s, a dressed down look (e.g.
buzzed hair, T-shirts, jeans and button up shirts) was also very popular with
people involved in punk rock, more specifically the hardcore punk scene. The
Circle Jerks frontman Keith Morris said "Some of those punk rock kids they
interviewed were a little over the top, but the thing historically is – the
L.A./Hollywood punk scene was basically based on English fashion. But we had
nothing to do with that. Black flag and the Circle Jerks were so far from that.
We looked like the kid who worked at the gas station or submarine
shop."[90] Punk dress was not simply a fashion statement. It epitomized a
way of thinking and seeing oneself as an individual cultural producer and
consumer. In this way, punk style led many people to ask further questions
about their culture and their politics.[91]
New Romantic
Seinfeld's pirate shirt, a New
Romantic fashion staple during the 80s.
The origins of the New Romantic and new wave fashion and music movement
of the mid-1980s are often attributed to the Blitz Kids who frequented the club
Blitz in London, especially David Bowie. Bowie even used the Blitz's host Steve
Strange in his music video for Ashes to Ashes.[92] It is also important to note
that the New Romantics and those involved with the punk scene had inspired each
other because of the concentration of influential individuals going to the same
clubs and having the same circle of friends.[92] Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm
McLaren were also directly involved in the movement, such as dressing the
members of Bow Wow Wow. The band leader and later solo artist, Adam Ant, and
Westwood had highly influenced each other as well (Adam Ant being one of the
leading icons of the New Romantics).[93] Westwood's first runway collection,
Pirates AW 1981-2 is often cited as a New Romantic collection which was both
influenced by and highly influential to the movement. The garments in Pirates
had asymmetrical necklines, flowy pirate shirts and breeches.[94] The
collection was very well received by critics and buyers.[95] However, the
designer's interference in the originally DIY fashion wasn't taken well by some
of the participants, such as Boy George who left Bow Wow Wow to form his own
band (Culture Club) and who cited one of the reasons for leaving as the way
Vivienne Westwood wouldn't let him dress himself.[93]
The Blitz Kids described the movement as a retaliation to punk[96] due
to it becoming too violent and unsavory crowds such as neo-Nazis and skinheads
deciding to jump on that aesthetic bandwagon.[92] It was also a way to forget
their relative poverty following the economic recession and the Winter of
Discontent.[96] Features of New Romantic clothing varied from individual to
individual, although these generally highlighted the implied individualism,
creativity and self-expression of the movement, besides its continued adherence
to the DIY ethic of punk.[92] It was inspired by different cultures and time
periods, films, film noir, and theatricality. Men often wore dramatic cosmetics
and androgynous clothing, including ruffled poet shirts, red or blue hussar
jackets with gold braid, silk sashes, tight pants, shiny rayon waistcoats, and
tailcoats based on those worn during the Regency era. Women, too, were very
theatrical in terms of makeup and style, and often favoured big hair, fishnet
gloves, corsets, crushed velvet, and elements of Middle Eastern and gypsy
clothing.[93]
Rockabilly
Main article: Neo-Rockabilly
Garage rock and psychobilly band the
U-Men wearing Teddy Boy outfits, early to mid -1980s.
In the early 1980s, the Teddy Boy look was popular in the UK among fans
of groups like the Stray Cats, Crazy Cavan, Levi and the Rockats, or Shakin
Stevens. Common items of clothing included drape jackets (generally in darker
shades than those of the 1970s), drainpipe trousers, brothel creepers, bolo
ties, white T-shirts, baseball jackets, hawaiian shirts, and black leather
jackets like the Schott Perfecto. Common hairstyles included the quiff,
pompadour, flat top, and ducktail.
The French rockabilly scene of the early to mid-1980s was closely linked
with the street punk subculture, had a large black and Arab following, and was
involved with antifascist squaddism.[97] The Black Dragons identified
themselves with the leather jacket wearing greaser antiheroes, rebels and
outcasts, and often fought the neonazi skinheads.[98]
Rude boys and skinheads
British skinheads in 1981
Following on from the mod revival of the late 70s, the UK witnessed a
revival of rude boy and skinhead fashion due to the popularity of ska punk, Oi!
punk rock, rocksteady, and two tone music during the winter of discontent. In
the early 80s, slim fitting mohair, tonic and houndstooth suits[99] were
popular, together with basket weave shoes, polo shirts, sta-prest trousers, Doc
Martens, braces, Harrington jackets and pork pie hats popularized by bands like
the Specials, UB40, the Bosstones, and Madness.[100] In response to the racism
of white power skinheads, 1980s rude boys wore checkerboard motifs to signify
that both black and white people were welcome. Crew cuts and buzzcuts were worn
by both sexes,[101] and girls often incorporated hair bangs in a partially
shaven style known as a Chelsea mohawk.[102] In Brighton, the Skins of the
1980s fought the outlaw bikers and rockabilly guys, as the Mods and Rockers had
previously done in the 60s.
Casuals
The football casual subculture first appeared in the UK around 1983,
when many ex-skinheads began dressing in designer clothing and sportswear to
blend into the crowd and avoid police attention at football games. Popular
clothing for English and Scottish casuals included Burberry coats, Stone
Island, Lacoste, Ben Sherman and Fred Perry polo shirts, tracksuits,[103]
bomber jackets, Adidas, Nike, or Reebok sneakers,[104] Fila or Ellesse jackets,
flat caps, baseball caps, soccer shirts, and scarfs or bobble hats in their
club's colours.[105] Although shaved heads[106][self-published source?]
remained the most common haircut, some fans also wore undercuts, Caesar cuts,
mod haircuts, and short mullet haircuts. During the late 80s, Casuals mostly
listened to acid house, new wave music, and later indie rock[107] or Madchester[108]
but a hip-hop influenced offshoot of the subculture, known as chavs, appeared
during the late 1990s and early 2000s.[109][110]
Skaters
German skate punks of the late 80s.
In Russia,[111] Australia, East Germany,[112] and America, the skater
subculture reached the height of popularity in the mid-'80s. Unlike the hippie
and surfer influenced skaters of the 70s, the skaters of the 80s overwhelmingly
preferred sportswear and punk fashion, especially baseball caps, red waffle
plaid shirts, sleeveless T-shirts, baggy pants or Jams[113] shorts resembling
pajamas,[114] checkered wristbands, striped tube socks, and basketball shoes
like Converse All Stars and Vans. Brightly colored T-shirts became fashionable
by the end of the decade, often featuring psychedelic eyes, skulls, Ed Roth
inspired cartoon characters, palm trees, iron crosses, or the logos of
skateboard brands like Stussy,[115] Tony Hawk, Mooks or Santa Cruz.[116] The
longer surfer hair was replaced with edgy hardcore punk and street punk
inspired styles like the bowl cut or Hitler Youth haircut.
Rap and hip hop
Main article: Hip hop fashion
Air Jordan 1 Bred
Hi top Adidas sneakers
Sports shoes had been worn as casual wear before, but for the first time
they became a high-priced fashion item. Converse shoes were popular in the
first half of the 1980s. In 1984, Nike introduced the first ever Air Jordan
sneaker, the Air Jordan 1 (named for basketball player Michael Jordan).
Although most believe this shoe was banned by the NBA due to the sneaker being
too flashy and distracting, others believe it was actually, the predecessor,
the Nike Air Ship that was under scrutiny.[117] Nike used this controversy
between Air Jordan and the NBA to market the sneaker. The Air Jordan 1 was
released in the royal blue color way to the public in 1985 and was an immediate
success, still retaining its value in the fashion world today.[118] Soon, other
manufacturers introduced premium athletic shoes.
Adidas sneakers were also a successful brand of the decade, becoming
popular among teenage boys and young men.[citation needed] The growth of
pop-culture and hip-hop influence allowed group Run-D.M.C. to make the Adidas
Superstar (commonly known as the shell toe) one of the most sought-after shoes
of the 1980s. Following their single "My Adidas", Adidas reportedly
gave them $1 million endorsement deal.[119] Nike had a similar share of the
market, with the Air Max and similar shoes such as the Air Force One which was
released in 1982. High-tops, especially of white or black leather, became
popular. Other sportswear brands released popular shoes - Reebok had the Reebok
Pump, Converse released the Cons and New Balance had the Worthy 790.
In the early 1980s, long and white athletic socks, often calf-high or
knee-high, were worn with sneakers. As the decade progressed, socks trended
shorter, eventually topping out just above the height of the shoe.[citation
needed] Run-D.M.C. and other hip-hop groups also influenced the apparel
industry. Wearing track suits and large chains necklaces, they popularised
sportswear brands such as Fila, Puma, Reebok, Nike, Avia and Adidas.[120]
Individuals in the culture also frequently wore bucket hats, oversized jackets
and t-shirts, and high contrast colors.[121] Fashion in hip-hop was a way to
surpass the poverty that surrounded the community.[122]
According to Chandler and Chandler-Smith (2008), rap and hip-hop were
not one specific style, but rather a mix between high-end luxury fashion and
what was on the street.[123] Harlem designer and shop-owner Dapper Dan embodied
this concept by redesigning luxury products and making them available to those
who wouldn't typically associate themselves with it. Dapper Dan was most famous
for deconstructing a Louis Vuitton garment and turning it into his signature
jacket. He reconstructed garments for many music icons and celebrities in the
1980s before getting shut down by lawyers in the early 1990s.[124] This
interest in luxury apparel expanded past Dapper Dan - American fashion brands
Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, and Nautica were expanding rapidly and embraced
by hip-hop culture as an indicator of status.[120]
Ensembles featuring the Pan-African colors - green, yellow and red, and
red, black and green - became popular among African Americans, as did kente
cloth. In the urban hip-hop communities, sneakers were usually worn unlaced and
with a large amount of gold jewelry, as well as head wraps.[citation needed]
Preppy
Young Iranian men wearing casual
preppy outfits in 1981
Wealthy teenagers, especially in the United States, wore a style
inspired by 1950s Ivy League fashion that came to be known as
"preppy." Preppy fashions are associated with classic and
conservative style of dressing and clothing brands such as high waisted ankle
length jeans and pants plain or pleated, Izod Lacoste, Brooks Brothers, and
Polo Ralph Lauren.[125] An example of preppy attire would be a button-down
Oxford cloth shirt, Ascot tie, cuffed khakis, and tasseled loafers, Keds,
Sperry or Eastland Boat shoes, white Sperry sneakers, or ballet flats.
Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, preppy fashions featured a lot of pastels,
turtleneck sweaters for girls, knee high socks sometimes turned down or folded
over at the top with above the knee length skirts and dresses and polo shirts
with designer logos. Other outfits considered "preppy" included cable
knit cardigans or argyle pattern sweaters tied loosely around the
shoulders,[126] dress shorts with knee socks, dressed up leggings outfits from
the mid-1980s on which consisted of leggings with an oversized v-neck sweater
over a turtleneck, slouch socks, Keds (shoes) or Sperrys, and bangs with a
headband band or ponytail and scrunchie. The European equivalent, known as
Sloane Rangers, dressed similarly but frequently incorporated tweed cloth
British country clothing, burberry mackintoshes, mustard corduroy pants, rain
boots, padded hairbands, and ancestral jewellery such as pearl necklaces.[127]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Hinweise:
Privatverkauf und ich schließe alle Rechte, die Sie nach dem sog. Fernabnahmegesetz gegenüber gewerblichen Händlern haben, bei mir ausdrücklich aus.
D.h. insbesondere kein Widerrufsrecht, keine Gewährleistung, keine Garantie, keine Rücknahme!
Meine Angaben mache ich nach bestem Wissen und Gewissen. Irrtum bleibt aber vorbehalten.
*Zum Verkauf steht nur, was auch ausdrücklich in der Artikelbeschreibung erwähnt und beschrieben ist. Alles andere (Dosen, Deckchen, Fotos etc.) dient nur der Dekoration!
Sollte ich unwissentlich oder versehentlich einmal wichtiges bei der Beschreibung nicht unerwähnt oder falsch beschrieben haben, bitte ich Sie, sich umgehend direkt an mich zu wenden.
Wir werden dann schon gemeinsam eine Lösung finden.
Versand auf Kosten und Risiko des Käufers!
Keine Abholung, nur Versand, es sei denn, ich biete ausdrücklich Abholung an.
**Geschütze Marken werden nur benutzt, um die Artikel angemessen beschreiben zu können.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Wiki:
Ein Brillant
(aus französisch brillant ‚glänzend‘, ‚strahlend‘) ist ein Diamant mit einem
speziellen Schliff. Die Begriffe „Diamant“ und „Brillant“ werden aber oft
fälschlich synonym gebraucht.
Der Schliff
heißt Brillantschliff und wurde um 1910 entwickelt. Er zeichnet sich durch hohe
Brillanz aus. Zusätzliche Angaben beim Brillanten wie „echt“ usw. sind nicht
erlaubt, da sie irreführend sind. Zwar ist es möglich – und auch nicht unüblich
– andere Edelsteine oder Imitate im Brillantschliff zu verarbeiten, jedoch
müssen diese dann eindeutig bezeichnet sein (z. B. „Zirkonia in
Brillantschliff“).
Im Deutschen
ist die weitverbreitete Falschschreibung Brilliant dem Englischen angeglichen.
Das deutsche Wort stammt vom französischen brillant, zu lat. berillus, griech.
bêrillos ‚Beryll‘ (vgl. auch Brille).
Entwicklung
des Brillantschliffs
Historische
Schliffe
Der Diamant
findet bereits seit mindestens 2000 Jahren als Schmuckstein Verwendung, doch
eine gezielte Bearbeitung setzte erst im 14. Jahrhundert ein. Zunächst aber
wurden hier nur zur Erhöhung des optischen Effektes die natürlichen
Kristallflächen poliert. Dieser – noch weitgehend in seiner natürlichen Form
belassene – erste Diamantschliff wurde, seiner Charakteristik entsprechend,
Spitzstein genannt. Durch Abspalten oder Abschleifen der Oktaederspitze
erzeugte man bald eine zusätzliche große Fläche auf der Oberseite (Tafel) und
eine kleine auf der Unterseite (Kalette oder Rippe), was zum Dickstein oder
Tafelstein führte.
Ab Ende des
15. Jahrhunderts legte man, dank der Entwicklung der Schleifscheibe, immer mehr
zusätzliche Facetten an. Um 1650 wurde – der Überlieferung nach auf Anregung
des französischen Kardinals Mazarin – erstmals ein Stein mit 34 Flächen (32
Facetten plus Tafel und Kalette) sowie gerundetem, wenn auch noch nicht
kreisrundem, Grundriss (Rundiste) entwickelt. Diese Zweifaches Gut oder auch
Mazarin-Schliff genannte Form erhielt Ende des 17. Jahrhunderts durch den
venezianischen Edelsteinschleifer Peruzzi ihre Steigerung im Dreifachen Gut
oder Peruzzi-Schliff. Dieser wies bereits alle Facetten und auch ähnliche
Proportionen des späteren Brillant-Schliffes auf. Aber auch beim Altschliff,
dem unmittelbaren Vorläufer des modernen Brillanten, ist der kreisrunde Körper
noch nicht konsequent umgesetzt. Dies geschah erst zu Beginn des 20.
Jahrhunderts.
Da der
Diamant, gerade in einer schmuckwürdigen Qualität, ein sehr teurer, weil
seltener und unter großem Aufwand zu gewinnender Rohstoff ist, war und ist man
natürlich stets bestrebt, beim Schleifen möglichst effizient zu arbeiten. Dies
bedeutet, dass man versucht, unter möglichst geringem Materialverlust einen
möglichst großen optischen – und somit wertsteigernden – Effekt zu erzielen.
Diamant
Diamant ist
die kubische Modifikation des Kohlenstoffs und als natürlich vorkommender
Feststoff ein Mineral aus der Mineralklasse der Elemente. Diamant bildet meist
oktaederförmige Kristalle, oft mit gebogenen und streifigen Flächen. Weitere
beobachtete Formen sind das Tetraeder, Dodekaeder und der Würfel. Die Kristalle
sind transparent, farblos oder durch Verunreinigungen (z. B. Stickstoff oder
Bor) oder Kristallgitterdefekte grün, gelb, braun und seltener auch orange, blau,
rosa, rot oder grau bis schwarz gefärbt.[1]
Diamant ist
der härteste natürliche Stoff. In der Härteskala nach Mohs hat er die Härte 10.
Seine Schleifhärte nach Rosiwal (auch absolute Härte) ist 140-mal größer als
die des Korunds. Die Härte des Diamanten ist allerdings in verschiedenen
Kristallrichtungen unterschiedlich (Anisotropie). Dadurch ist es möglich,
Diamant mit Diamant zu schleifen. In dem dazu verwendeten Diamantpulver liegen
die Kristalle in jeder Orientierung vor (statistische Isotropie), damit wirken
immer auch die härtesten unter ihnen auf den zu schleifenden Körper.
Diamant ist
optisch isotrop mit hoher Lichtbrechung und hoher Dispersion. Er zeigt
Fluoreszenz und Phosphoreszenz und ist triboelektrisch.[1] Er verfügt über die
höchste Wärmeleitfähigkeit aller bekannten Minerale.
Das Gewicht
einzelner Diamanten wird traditionell in Karat angegeben, einer Einheit, die
exakt 0,2 Gramm entspricht (siehe Abschnitt „Gewicht in Karat“). Ein
unbehandelter, d. h. insbesondere ungeschliffener Diamant wird Rohdiamant
genannt.
Der Name
Diamant leitet sich aus dem spätlateinischen diamantem, Akkusativ von diamas
ab, einer gräzisierenden Abwandlung von adamas, akk. adamanta, zu griechisch ἀδάμας,
adámas, „unbezwingbar“. Im klassischen Latein wurden wie bereits im
Griechischen als adamas besonders harte Materialien bezeichnet, so etwa von
Hesiod der Stahl, von Platon und Theophrast wohl der Diamant und von Plinius
der Saphir.
Die ältesten
Diamantenfunde werden aus Indien, angeblich bereits im 4. Jahrtausend vor Christus,
berichtet. Bereits damals sagte man Diamanten magische Wirkungen nach, weshalb
man sie auch als Talismane nutzte. Diamanten waren auch bei den alten Römern
bekannt und wurden sehr geschätzt.
Die
Verwendung von Diamanten als Werkzeug beschreibt schon Plinius der Ältere in
seinem Werk Naturalis historia, XXXVII 60. Um 600 n. Chr. wurde der erste
Diamant auf der indonesischen Insel Borneo gemeldet, doch obwohl Indien nun
nicht mehr die einzige Quelle war, blieben die indonesischen Funde unbedeutend,
da die Anzahl zu gering und der Transport zu den Handelsstädten zu weit war.
Erst im 13. Jahrhundert entdeckte man, dass sich Diamanten bearbeiten lassen,
was jedoch in Indien abgelehnt wurde, da die Steine so angeblich ihre magischen
Kräfte verlieren könnten. Der heutige typische Brillantschliff wurde erst um
1910 entwickelt.
Im 18.
Jahrhundert erschöpften sich allmählich die indischen und indonesischen Minen.
Als ein Portugiese auf der Suche nach Gold in Brasilien war, entdeckte er den
ersten Diamanten außerhalb Asiens. Dieser Fund verursachte einen
„Diamantrausch“. Den ersten Diamant im Muttergestein Kimberlit fand man 1869 in
Kimberley in Südafrika. Ein Jahr später übernahm Südafrika die Rolle des
Hauptlieferanten, da auch Funde in Brasilien seltener wurden.
Auf der
Weltausstellung in Philadelphia 1876 wurde erstmals eine mit Diamanten besetzte
Steinkreissäge einer breiten Öffentlichkeit gezeigt. 1908 entdeckte man auch an
der Diamantenküste Deutsch-Südwestafrikas Diamanten, und 1955 wurde schließlich
der erste Diamant künstlich hergestellt. Den ersten Diamanten auf dem
Meeresgrund fand man erst 1961. Heute ist Russland Hauptlieferant für
Diamanten.
Ein Diamant
hat eine sehr hohe Lichtbrechung und einen starken Glanz, gepaart mit einer
auffallenden Dispersion, weshalb er bis heute vorwiegend als Schmuckstein
genutzt wird. Seine Brillanz beruht auf zahllosen inneren Lichtreflexionen, die
durch den sorgfältigen Schliff der einzelnen Facetten hervorgerufen werden,
welche in speziell gewählten Winkelverhältnissen zueinander stehen müssen. Das
Ziel ist es, einen hohen Prozentsatz des einfallenden Lichtes durch Reflexionen
im Inneren des Steines wieder in Richtung des Betrachters aus dem Stein
austreten zu lassen. Mittlerweile werden Schliffe und deren Wirkung auf
Rechnern simuliert und die Steine auf Automaten geschliffen, um über eine
exakte Ausführung optimale Ergebnisse zu erreichen. Nur ein Viertel aller
Diamanten ist qualitativ als Schmuckstein geeignet. Davon erfüllt nur ein
kleiner Bruchteil die Kriterien, die heute an Edelsteine gestellt werden:
Ausreichende Größe, geeignete Form, hohe Reinheit, Fehlerfreiheit, Schliffgüte,
Brillanzwirkung, Farbenzerstreuung, Härte, Seltenheit und je nach Wunsch
Farbigkeit oder Farblosigkeit.
Im frühen
Mittelalter hatte der Diamant mangels Bearbeitungsmöglichkeiten noch keinen
besonderen Wert,[33] und meist wurden nur die farbigen Steine als Edelsteine
bezeichnet.[34]
Beginnend
vermutlich im 14. Jahrhundert und bis zum 16. Jahrhundert wurden Diamanten mit
einer glatten Spaltfläche nach unten und oben in gewölbter Form in Facetten
geschliffen. Diesen Schliff nannte man Rosenschliff, spätere Varianten mit
mehreren Facettenebenen die „Antwerpener Rose“. Diese Diamanten wurden dann zur
Erhöhung der Reflexion in Silber über einer folierten Vertiefung gefasst, die
poliert war und manchmal ebenfalls Abdrücke der Facetten des Rosenschliffes
hatte.
Mit Erfindung
besserer Schleifscheiben im 17. Jahrhundert konnte man Diamanten mit spitzem
Unterteil schleifen, die erstmals durch Totalreflexion von oben einfallendes
Licht wieder zum Betrachter reflektieren konnten. Solche Diamanten wurden dann
unten offen gefasst, und viele Diamantrosen sollen dann auch umgeschliffen
worden sein. Diese Schliffform zeigte, wie die unten folierten Diamantrosen,
eine gute Brillanz und das Feuer des Diamanten. Bis zum 19. Jahrhundert bestand
die Bearbeitung nur in zwei Techniken, dem Spalten entlang der Spaltebenen
(Oktaederflächen) und dem Schleifen/Polieren. Durch die Erfindung des Sägens
konnten Diamanten im modernen Schliff und mit geringerem Verarbeitungsverlust
entwickelt werden. Der moderne Schliff entstand so im 20. Jahrhundert, mit
einer deutlich höheren Lichtausbeute, die das Feuer in den Hintergrund drängt.
Seit den
1980er Jahren werden Diamanten unter anderem mit Lasern bearbeitet, um dunkle
Einschlüsse zu entfernen und Steine zu kennzeichnen. Die Eigenfarbe von Diamant
lässt sich nicht so einfach wie bei anderen Schmucksteinen beeinflussen.
Unansehnliche Steine gibt man zur Farbveränderung seit den 1960er Jahren in
Kernreaktoren zur Bestrahlung. Das Resultat sind dauerhafte Farbveränderungen.
Schmutzig graue, weiße und gelbliche Steine erhalten ein leuchtendes Blau oder
Grün. Daran kann sich noch eine Wärmebehandlung anschließen, wobei die durch
Strahlung erzeugten Kristallveränderungen zum Teil wieder „ausheilen“ und als
weitere Farbveränderung sichtbar werden. Die Resultate sind nicht immer
eindeutig vorhersehbar.
Zur Bewertung
der Qualität und damit auch des Preises eines geschliffenen Diamanten werden
als Kriterien die sogenannten vier C: Carat (Karat), Color (Farbe), Clarity
(Klarheit), Cut (Schliff) herangezogen.
Der Preis pro
Karat liegt 2010 laut dem Kimberley Process Certification Scheme zwischen
342,92 US$ (bei Diamanten aus Namibia) und 67,34 US$ (aus Russland).[35]
Besonders seltene und hochkarätige Exemplare erzielen jedoch meist auf
Auktionen extrem höhere Preise. So wurde am 13. November 2018 bei einer
Versteigerung im Auktionshaus Christie’s für einen rosa Diamanten namens Pink
Legacy 39,1 Millionen Euro erzielt, was mit 2,6 Millionen Dollar pro Karat
einen neuen Weltrekord aufstellte.[36] Am 4. April 2017 erzielte der 59,6 Karat
schwere Pink Star bei Sotheby’s Hong Kong 71,2 Millionen Dollar (ca. 67
Millionen Euro).[37] Für den berühmten Oppenheimer Blue, einen blauen Diamanten
mit 14,62 Karat und dem Prädikat „Fancy Vivid Blue“ für die seltenste und
gefragteste Farbausprägung bei blauen Diamanten, waren bei Christie’s Genf am
19. Mai 2016 57 Millionen Dollar (ca. 51 Millionen Euro) das höchste Gebot.[38]
Gewicht in
Karat (carat weight)
Die
Gewichtseinheit für Edelsteine ist das Karat, Abkürzung ct. Der Name dieser
Einheit leitet sich von der arabischen bzw. griechischen Bezeichnung für die
Samen des Johannisbrotbaums (lat. Ceratonia siliqua) ab. Diese wurden früher
als Gewichte verwendet. Ein metrisches Karat entspricht exakt 0,2 Gramm.
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[SW: ich bin 14 karätig 18 karätig werden in den 20er 30er 333er gold 375 375er gold 40er 50er 585er gold 60er 60er 70er 750er gold 8 karätig habe 80er 9 karätig Achat gerne achtziger Amazonit amzonitring amber viel Amethyst amethystring amrband sehe garantiere amthyst Anhänger finde ankerkette seien am montag ankerketten antik antique aquamarin aquamarineing solitär brillantring diamantring einkaräter eincaräter krawattennadel eine kravatennadel tie pin pin email emailiert enamel aquamarine Armband armbanduhr ein armreif armring art deco aufziehen aufzug automatic automatik barock punze barockring bauhaus bauhausring Bauhausstil belle epoque bengel bergkristall bergkristallring bernstein bernsteinring bernsteinanhänger bernsteinbrosche bettelarmband biedermeier biedermeierbrosche biedermeierring biedermeierkette biedermeiercollier biedermeieranhänger blachian blachianschmuck blautopas toller blautopasring blautopasanhänger blautopasbrosche trachtenschmuck folk jewellery traditional jewellery bottoms bracelet bracelett brillant brilliant brilljant bronze brooch brooche wunderbare Brosche buckles butter Butterscotch Button camee cameo carat carneol schönen carneolring karneolring Chain champgner bernstein Chatelaine coral chrom Chrysopras chrysoprasring Citrin citrinring zitrinring citrinanhänger zitrinanhänger cognac bernstein collier coral necklace cuff bottoms cuffbottoms cuff-bottoms cuff links cuff-links cufflinks spange alte gürtelschließe gürtelschnelle antike schuhschnalle damenring schöner mädchenring herrenring hübsche Damenuhr herrenuhr deco diamant dominokette dominoketten doppelpanzerkette doppelpanzerketten Double kettenschieber kettenschuber echter doubleschmuck dreißiger jahre aus den dreissiger jahren earclip earring earrings echt wunderbares Edelstahlarmband schweres edelstahlgehäuse eighties emerald email empire engeslkoralle bezaubernde engelshautkoralle epoche epoque erbskette erbsketten facettiert facettenfasettiert scharfe und kalre fasetten FBM fifties figaroketten haben wir figarokettte fischgrätkette aus pforzheim oder gablonz jablonek kaufbeuren neu-gablonz idar-oberstein schwäbisch-gmünd bijouterie bijoux bijou brigitte lange flachpanzerkette kurze flachpanzerketten Frackuhr fünfziger jahre garibalidkette garibalidketten garnet echte Gemme acHarold Slot-Moller, Thorvald Blindesboll, Mogens Ballin, Georg Jensen, Erik Magnussen, Johan Rohde, Evald , F. Kastor Hansen, Just Andersen, Kay BojesenJust Andersen, Oscar Gundlach, Arno Malinowski, Jorgen Jensen, Harald , Gundorph Albertus,Sigvard Bernadotte, Henry Pilstrup, Just Andersen, Hans Hansen, Frantz Hingelberg, Carla Rasmussen, Karl Gustav Hansen, Ingeborg Molsted, A. Michelsen, Anders Ring, Inger Moller, Bodli Hendel-Rosenhoff, Edvard Kindt-Larsen, Erik Herlov, Jais , Evbald , henning Koppel, Nanna und Jorgen Ditzel, Bernt Gabrielsen Pedersen, Anni und Bent Knudsen, Karen Strand, Magnus Stephensen, Palle Bisgard, Bodil Ishoy , Eigil Jensen, Getrud Engel, Bsmykkekunst funder lisa ent Exner, Ole Holmstrup, Ole W. Jacobsen, Ole Bent Perdersen, Thor Selzer, Ole Lynggard, C.F. Heise, Arje Griegst
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