This 30.25" scale neck is engineered to fit your fender Tele-style guitar with the vintage 4 bolt mounting with no modification, this neck will not work with the 3 bolt setup because the trussrod is in the way. I start with a 25.5" scale and move out from there.  Sorry, no international shipping at this time. The specs are as fallows.

1 Piece eastern hard rock maple with walnut skunk stripe and a T style peghead.

Vintage style single action truss rod adjustment at the heel.

13" Fretboard radius

1&5/8" + nut width   

1/8" Flat bottom nut slot (roughed in bone nut included, string slots cut in with round bottom nut files, left a little wide and a little tall to let you or your tech dial it into your taste, playable as shipped)

7/32" black position markers on fretboard and 3/32" Black side dots

A minimum of 2 coats of nitrocellulose laquear, not meant to be perfect but a good hard finish that will allow you to put your project together without having to go through the mess of applying a hard finish. N/C

Peg holes are step drilled to accept Gotoh /Shaller style die-cast mini machine head tuners.

Heel width   2 &3/16" - 2.187" (2.180-2.187")

Frets are .057" tall X .110" wide.  18% nickel silver fretwire.

Options- Fret level, crown and polish $25. Drill mounting holes $10. Let me know if you're interested in the options and I will make a listing for the whole order at one time. 

(NOTE IF YOU'RE GOING TO DRILL YOUR OWN HOLES, ALWAYS USE A SHARP/NEW 1/8" DRILL BIT AND SCREWS MADE TO WORK WITH BOLT ON MAPLE NECKS)


A few tips if you're going to drill your mounting holes, first, a list of what you'll need.

1 Quick grip padded clamp. 
2 Drill bits form 1/16"-1/4" in 64ths. New bits are recommended as they will not wonder nearly as bad as dull or owner sharpen bits will, also, you can use this approach to drilling your tuner screws as well as anything else that needs to be centered that's why the full set to insure you have the best possible fit for a variety of jobs. 
3 A couple of old phone books or anything that will raise the body up, so the clamp doesn't touch your work surface.
4 A reversable drill with a keyed chuck is best to ensure the drill bit doesn't pull out as your drilling the holes.

The first thing to do is find the drill bit that just fits the holes in your body. 
Then clamp your neck to the body with the handle up.
Place the body with the neck clamped on the books face up.
Use a straight edge to check the alignment with the bridge.
Tweak the neck as necessary to get the best alignment.
With the clamp snug so the neck wont shift, stand the body up with the back of the guitar facing you.
With the drill bit that just fits the holes in the body in your drill, (RUN IT BACKWARDS IN EACH HOLE) You're not trying to remove any material, you're just making a dimple in the center of the hole on the neck that will center your 1/8" drill bit.
Now put your 1/8" drill bit in the drill, take one of your mounting screws and put it up against the drill bit. Make sure your drill bit sticks out of the drill the same length as the screw!
Then run the drill in reverse again with the 1/8" bit in each hole to help center your bit. 
Now run your drill forward one hole at a time, eyeball the bit to keep it centered in the hole. Check between holes to make sure the drill bit hasn't pulled out or changed adjustment in any way.
Now take the clamp off and clean up any sawdust or any foreign material that might cause problems. 
Place your neck back on the body, with one screw through the plate, place it in the hole and start it. Align the plate with the holes and place you screws through and tighten evenly.

A minimum of two coats of nitrocellulose lacquer comes standard @ N/C.


I would like to thank my international buys that have made-up 50% of the orders through the years. At this time the shipping cost have gotten so expensive that I cannot offer sales outside the USA