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Plant Name:
|
Onion, Yellow Stuttgarter (Intermediate/Noon Day)
|
Latin Name:
|
Allium cepa
|
Days to Germinate: |
7-14
|
Days to Harvest: |
90 (Plant Spring/Summer), 210-240 (Plant Fall/Winter)
|
Growth Habit: |
Root, Noon Day
|
USDA Zones: |
2-12 |
Lifespan: |
Biennial |
Brand: |
TomorrowSeeds
|
Sunlight: |
Full Sun, Partial Shade |
GMO: |
No |
Pollination:
|
Heirloom, Open-Pollinated |
Fungicide-Treated Seeds*: |
No |
Seeds Packed For**: |
2025 |
*Fungicide-treated seeds protect the seedlings from diseases until they are up and growing. Do not eat treated seeds.
**Seeds
are freshly packed for the growing season of the year listed. Seeds are
still viable beyond pack date. Store in a cool and dry location such as
the refrigerator or basement to best preserve germination rates.
Planting Instructions:
Soil Preparation and Fertilizing:
Choose
an area with well-draining soil and receives full sunlight each day.
When it is dry enough to not stick to garden tools, work the soil.
Before seeding or transplanting, remove all rocks and trash from the
soil, then dig or plow the soil 8-10 inches deep and rake up several
times to break up large clods. At this point, you may optionally spread
2-3 pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100-square-feet of garden
area. Measure and spread the fertilizer, then mix it with the top 3-4
inches of soil. Rake until smooth. Tip: If you live in an area with
heavy clay or hard soil, add a 1 inch layer of compost to improve soil
texture.
Planting:
Onions are a cool-season crop and can stand temperatures well below
freezing. They may be planted from seeds, from small bulbs called sets,
or from transplants. Seeding costs the least but takes longer before
onions are ready.
If
starting onions from seeds, you may start them indoors about 6 weeks
before you plan to transplant them to the garden. Onion seeds need
temperatures of at least 50°F (10°C) to germinate properly. Or, you may
direct sow onion seeds outdoors by planting them 1/4 inch deep during
October through December (for biggest bulbs in a May/July harvest).
Place the seeds 1 inch apart in rows spaced 1-2 feet apart. When the
plants are about 6 inches high, thin them to 1 plant every 2-3 inches.
You may eat the extra plants as green onions.
When
using sets or transplants, plant October-February (for biggest bulbs in
May/July harvest). Plant onion sets with the point end up 3/4 inch deep
and 3 inches apart. Try not to transplant onions more than 1 inch deep.
As the cold chill of winter arrives, the onion plants go dormant. Then,
as the temperatures and soil warm again in early spring, the onions come
back to life.
Bulbs/Transplants:
Planting Depth: |
3/4 inch |
Within-Row Spacing:
|
3 inch
|
Between-Row Spacing:
|
1- 2 feet
|
Watering:
Watering once a week is usually enough in the Spring. You may need to
water more often during dry, windy weather. Slow, deep watering helps
the root system grow strong.
Weeding and Pruning:
Weeds are easy to pull or cut when they are 3-4 inches tall. Try not to
let weeds or grasses grow large because they will compete with onions
for nutrients. If hoeing to remove weeds, be careful not to cut too
deeply as cutting the feeder rooters may slow the plant's growth. It is
better to pull by hand when possible.
Fertilizing: When
the onion plants have 5-6 leaves, you may optionally apply fertilizer
again to help grow larger plants and bigger bulbs. Each leaf forms a
ring in the onion bulb. More leaves means more rings and larger bulbs.
Use about 1/2 cup of fertilizer for each 10 feet of onion row. Scatter
the fertilizer evenly between the rows around the plants. Then water the
onions after adding the fertilizer.
Insecticides:
Onions have few insect problems. However, thrips, which are very tiny
insects, may be found between the center leaves. Many Insecticides are
available in garden centers for use if needed. Bt-based insecticides and
sulfur are organic options that can be used. Sevin is a synthetic
insecticide option. Before using a pesticide, please read the label and
always follow cautions, warnings and directions.
Diseases: Diseases
may be problem on onions. Brown leaf tips or brown spots on the middle
and lower parts of leaves may be caused by plant diseases. Sulfur has
fungicidal properties than can help control many diseases. Neem oil and
other fungicides are available for use. Please always follow cautions,
warnings, and directions.
Onions
seeded in October/December or set/transplanted in January/February
should produce bulbs in May/July. If used as green onions, they may be
picked from the time they are pencil size until they begin to form
bulbs. For dry-bulb onions, let the plants grow larger. The onions are
ready when the main stem begins to get weak and fall over. Pull the
plants out of the soil. Leave them lying in the garden for about 1-2
days to dry. Then remove the tops and roots and let them keep drying in
baskets or boxes. Onions can be stored in a refrigerator crisper or in a
dry, airy place such as a in a wire net in the garage or carport.