The two pages have been stitched back together such that it's not possible to see the join no matter how closely you look.  I then remove dust, creases and noticeable grain from the magazine print and redraw portions of the image, text and logos so the poster has a much higher apparent resolution.

All of the colours are selectively saturated to be very vivid but particular attention is paid to areas of the image that must be pure black, white or any solid colour, and any subtleties in shading too.

The quality achieved is very high, and whilst possibly not quite as good as the original advertising proof would have been, it easily beats any magazine reproduction you've ever seen by a long, long way.

Printed on Ilford Galerie 270gsm photo paper, one of the best you can buy.

I aim to extend borders on these prints so they can be framed easily, i.e. without the frame's rebate (the lip of the frame that covers a small amount of the inserted picture) covering up any important detail.  I don't overdo the border extension, so the print will look as good in a borderless frame such as a simple clip frame.  Border extension is achieved by creating additional image detail around the edges that looks like it belongs to the original image.  Edge to edge printing, so there are no white borders on my artwork unless the original image was published with white borders as part of the design.

Printed using UV-proof archive-quality ink which has a 50-year direct-sunlight fade profile that beats any other ink on the market.  The printing is very dense (to the point where you can just about see the thickness of solid black areas) but the image doesn't suffer from undue darkening as a result.  The overall effect is a satin sheen print on high-gloss paper, which is better for viewing through glass or acrylic when framed.

The only thing you need to pay attention to is handling, as the photo paper has a very absorbent layer for the ink which also picks up finger prints (the oils secreted by your skin) instantly.  Because of the thickness of the ink layers, finger prints won't wipe off as they do with a glossy photo developed in a photo lab and if you try, you may find you'll buff the ink layer and this will make that area of the print look different to the rest.  The best thing to do it to handle the print with finger tips only, avoiding dark and black areas all together.  Frame the print a soon as you receive it, then you have an item that can be handled and displayed for a lifetime without any degradation whatsoever.