The Pocket Square – An Introduction

Of all the various accessories available to the gentleman, the handkerchief in the jacket’s breast pocket is quite likely the least understood.

 

What colour to choose, which fabric is right, and how to fold it properly are just some of the questions that add to the apprehension.

 

The dress handkerchief doesn’t have to be a mysterious and frightening item; with a little know-how and a few simple rules, it can become a standard – and debonair – part of any gentleman’s wardrobe.

 

Pocket Square Rule # 1

The cardinal rule of dress handkerchiefs – or pocket squares, as they’re often called – is that the handkerchief is never identical to the tie.

 

The patterned, silky squares that come attached to ties should be ignored outright – they’re there for convenience, not style.

 

A dress handkerchief is intended as an accessory that brings a bit of contrast and attention to a suit, and that can’t happen when it is perfectly-matched.

 

Even worse, it tends to make the ensemble look like a package special, which is never what the well-dressed man is looking for.

 

What you should strive for is a pocket handkerchief that perfectly complements your outfit; like a well-placed garnish, it should only add to the presentation and never overpower or take away.

 

 

 

Pocket Square Rule # 2

One never uses a dress handkerchief for anything but show. Instead, carry a plain white cotton handkerchief in your trouser back pocket for general use.

 

Just as a gentleman wouldn’t think of using his tie to cover his nose, or using his jacket to mop up a spill, so likewise he does not use his dress handkerchief for such tasks.

 

A secondary benefit of having a handkerchief for regular use is the aristocratic impression it tends to convey.

 

It is a lost art to see a man provide a clean white handkerchief to a lady who is suddenly overcome with emotion or other distress. One quick note: insist that the lady retain the handkerchief after she has recovered.

 

A warning: many retailers offer small squares of cardboard with fabric attached, intended to imitate the look of a square without actually learning to fold it.

 

These are like pre-tied bow-ties and clip-on neckties: shortcuts that any stylish gentleman should avoid.

 

One of the greatest benefits of learning to dress elegantly is the control it affords over one’s attire, control that clip-on ties and cardboard squares can never provide.

 

The options for dress handkerchiefs are endless: a wide number of fabrics from which to choose, an infinite array of colours and patterns, and a world of origami-like folds await the gentleman who decides to adopt it.

 

The dress handkerchief is an elegant touch brought to a well-crafted ensemble, and a symbol of the confidence in one’s own style, displayed for the world to see.

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POCKET SQUARE RULES AND ETIQUETTE

Whether you’re a pocket square aficionado or just a dabbler in menswear trends, navigating the etiquette of this accessory can admittedly be a bit of a sartorial minefield so below we've set out our pocket square guide.

 

HOW TO WEAR A POCKET SQUARE:

General pocket square rules

Different pocket square styles

What colour pocket square to choose for an occasion

Should your square match, complement or contrast with your outfit?

Are you aiming for a smart or casual aesthetic, or mulling over what pocket square to wear at work?

If all of these questions leave you feeling a bit flummoxed, read on for our comprehensive pocket square guide on how to wear your square with panache.

 

how to wear a pocket square pocket square guide matching tie and pocket square

 

WHEN TO WEAR A POCKET SQUARE

Historically, the pocket square was a necessity for guests attending dinner parties and other formal engagements. The classic pocket square fashion for smart occasions remains much the same today: a white, handkerchief-style pocket square folded into a flat fold (more on that later). However, even within the sphere of formal attire, there is still scope to experiment with your arrangement and move outside the standard white pocket square rule.

 

We are occasionally asked, is there ever a time not to wear a pocket square? The answer to that is not really. Once you become a regular square wearer, you'll find that not wearing a square is like leaving the house without your shoes.

 

It's really a case of degrees. If you want to go for a very conservative look choose a pocket square that is only a shade or two lighters than your jacket and go for a flat fold, or something that provides just a little bit of contrast such as a dark brown square with polka dots.

 

when not to wear a pocket square

 

Tonal monochrome shades work well for pocket squares teamed with black or grey suits, for instance, while a vibrant pop of red adds interest to crisp blue suits, particularly in summer. A puff fold can also offer a more nonchalant approach to formal dressing than the classic flat fold.

 

However, in more recent times, the pocket square’s recent resurgence in popularity has also led to an influx of men elevating their everyday looks and showing a bit of sartorial flair.

 

We like to keep a plain white pocket square for formal occasions, but a square that is predominately white with either a coloured edging or light pattern provides a relatively conservative look that will work in all business environments.

 

white pocket square

 

A well-cut suit or jacket certainly makes a strong statement about a man, but to really stand out, it's your accessories that really make all the difference. Just look at the difference the humble pocket square can add to a relatively simple jacket. Not a flamboyant colour combination or fold, but a subtle accent featuring our Kinglet Calyptra that works perfectly in the work environment.

 

When to wear a pocket square

 

In fact, that's one of the reason's we started Rampley & Co. We felt that there was a dearth of truly unique and interesting men's accessories so we partnered with some of the world's leading galleries to try and create striking accessories which you can be seen in our online store.

 

So, the question is no longer when you should wear a pocket square, it is indeed how you should wear your pocket square. To truly dress like a gentleman, we've created a free eBook which covers factors such as pairing your tie and pocket square, how to match your accessories, how your jacket should fit etc. The free guide can be downloaded here: 13 Essential Rules to Dressing Like A Gentleman.

 

MATCHING TIE AND POCKET SQUARE

One question we often get asked is around whether you should be matching your tie and pocket square. The short answer is no. Although it might seem like an easy way to coordinate your outfit, matching your pocket square and tie or bow tie is a definite no-no in modern dress.

 

Instead, the purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look: either by harmonising or contrasting with your other accessories. So, although some stores even offer matching tie and pocket square sets, our advice is to steer clear of these if you want to be seen to be on top of your style game.

 

If your pocket square has a pattern or print, for example, then pick a colour from that palette to bring your look together and match it to a primary colour in your ties.

 

Matching tie and pocket square

 

Equally, you could choose a pocket square that is a shade lighter or darker than the core colour of your ensemble. Remember, it’s all in the detail, so don’t be afraid to bring out an accent colour on a subtle pinstripe or checked shirt.

 

Alternatively, if you want to make your pocket square the focal point of your look, you could opt to clash your pocket square with your tie and, indeed, the rest of your outfit. With this, it really is a case of ‘the bolder the better’: experiment with vibrant colours, eclectic prints or even textured materials such as chambray, leather or tweed to pull this off.

 

So that you know you should never directly match your pocket square and tie, below we have set out some basic tie and pocket square rules so you will always look sharp.

 

POCKET SQUARE RULES

Below is a handy pocket square guide when choosing your pocket square:

 

Choose a secondary colour from your shirt or tie as the primary colour for your pocket square

Don't overdo the patterns, ensure some articles of clothing are flat colours which will accentuate the colours in your pocket square or tie

Don't directly match your tie and pocket square

Match your fold to the occasion. For formal occasions stick to the flat fold or one- or two-point folds, for more casual occasions use some more flare with the classic puff fold or one of the more flamboyant fold as set out below.

White pocket square rules; for the most part, there are no rules. White squares work with every jacket and tie combination and colour so you can never really get it wrong with a white pocket square.

POCKET SQUARE FABRIC OPTIONS

Silk Pocket Squares

One of the most popular fabrics for pocket squares is silk. Silk has the properties of not only feeling very luxurious, but is also the perfect material for luminous colours as the light hits it from different angles you can get different pops of colour, which adds real interest to an outfit. Also well known for being a fine fabric which means you can achieve a number of intricate silk pocket square folds.

 

However, the main reason we use silk for the majority of our pocket squares is the incredible detail that can be achieved when working with a quality fabric. Silk provides the perfect canvas to provide both the sharpness of image and vibrancy of different shades. You can see an example of this here, with our Pollice Verso Pocket Square.

Our Abduction of Ganymede pocket square is a good example of the vibrancy that working with silk provides. The yellows and golds contrast brilliantly against the darker colours in the piece. This allows for a number of different looks depending on how the pocket square folded.

Wool/Silk Squares

One of the most underrated fabrics for pocket squares is the mix of silk and wool. It takes the best of both worlds, the luxurious feel of the silk, and the texture of the wool, in order to create a beautiful, lightweight fabric. The result is not as bright as silk and therefore more adapted to some situations, but it has a unique texture which pairs very well with silk ties. The presence of both materials makes it very light.

 

The wool tends to make it wrinkle resistant, and therefore allows it to drape beautifully while looking great with all different kinds of folds. The silk brings a small shine to it and enhances the details. The most common blend is 70% wool and 30% silk. While 100% wool pocket squares are more adapted to winter and autumn, a mix of wool and silk works for all year round.

 

Compared to other fabrics, this blend pairs particularly well with all suit fabrics. You can either wear a wool and mohair fabric, or a heavier fabric like Tweed or Herringbone. It is therefore very versatile, and a strong addition to a collection.

 

On a pocket square like La Gourmandise (far left), we chose wool/silk for the fabric as it gives a perfect result - the texture is highly visible on the lighter parts of the painting, while the silk helps the blue and yellow to shine. The outcome is a pocket square which can be paired with both dark and lighter suits and blazers. While 'Spark' (far right) has both the vibrancy of silk and the lightweight texture of the wool to make it a perfect summer square.

 

The texture is also an ideal complement to the designs, which are historical deco, so gives them a certain old-world charm.

Linen Pocket Squares

Linen is one of the oldest fabrics in the world, and it is completely made of natural materials. It is very resistant to wear and tear, yet very light. As a result, linen pocket squares are often associated with summer, where lighter fabrics are worn.

 

They are less shiny than silk and can be worn with a contrasting fabric like a tuxedo for a black-tie event, but a double-breasted linen jacket will also pair very well with a linen pocket square. The only downside of linen is that it requires ironing quite often, as it wrinkles very easily.

 

Linen pocket squares look smarter than cotton pocket squares, and can be worn with both formal jackets, casual looks. The matte aspect of linen pairs well with silk ties, as well as wool ties.

 

Linen pocket square Cotton Squares

Cotton pocket squares tend to be the most affordable, since cotton is not an expensive material, however they do not have the same panache or vitality of higher quality fabrics like silk or wool/silk. Cotton tends to be used for handkerchiefs and is not considered a luxurious fabric.

 

Once you’ve chosen your square, there remains the all-important decision of pocket square folds. As mentioned, you should match your fold to the occasion, but also keep in mind that certain folds will lift the colours in your square. The classic pocket square fold is known as the flat fold or presidential fold, and is often seen in classic images and TV programs set in the 50's and 60's.

presidential fold pocket square

While this evokes images of another time, it now really only works for formal events. We would definitely advocate experimenting with folds that are a bit more flamboyant.

 

The simplest to achieve is the puff fold with your pocket square, which involves pinching the centre of the square and then twisting or folding it, before placing it in your breast pocket so that the corners are at the bottom and the central design remains visible. Not only is this fold easy to achieve, but it works for most situations from the office through to a summer wedding, see more on this below.

 

puff fold with check jacket puff fold puff fold pocket square

If your square has a design that incorporates an interesting border then you want to make the most of this with a point fold or perhaps a Dunaway fold.

 

For step-by-step guides on how to achieve different folds, see our pocket square folding guides here: how to fold a pocket square.

 

How to Fold A Pocket Square for A Wedding

Often a wedding is when all gentlemen like to look their Sunday best. Even for those not normally known for their elegant dress sense, it is one of the few times each year they will be prepared to make a concerted effort. Below are 3 of our favourite folds for a wedding, in order from the most conservative to the most flamboyant. Click on the image to go through to our folding guide for that particular look.

 

The Puff Fold

The Stairs Fold

The Reverse Puff

 

WHITE POCKET SQUARES

Perhaps the most classic of all is the men's white pocket square. From the grainy white pocket square, black suit photos from the early 20th century, this simple square has an illustrious history. The key reason being that this square works with every jacket and pattern combination, there are no real white pocket square rules to take into account when selecting your chosen outfit.

 

The classic understated look is the flat fold as seen below on the left. This is the most formal look and works for any situation or event you may be attending. Our advice would be that this simple square can be elevated with just a touch of colour, whether that be evidenced coming through in your fold or by having a coloured edging to your square.

 

One look that that is always timeless, is the white pocket square navy suit combination as seen below.

 

White pocket square rules White pocket square navy suit

BLACK POCKET SQUARES

The pocket square is generally used to provide a bit of sartorial flair to your outfit, with contrast generally being the key goal. The black pocket square when paired with a dark navy or black jacket being the exception to this.

 

Often used in more formal settings, it can give you quite a polished finish. However, the main issue is that often your sartorial endeavours are not even visible until others are within touching distance.

 

black pocket square

 

It is our opinion that if you are looking to get the plaudits you deserve with a black pocket square you should either go for a square with a hint of pattern or a classic white shoestring. The white trim will always give that clear contrast that completes the jacket beautifully. 

 

black pocket square with white trim

 

SUIT POCKET SQUARES

As a general rule of thumb, there are no distinct pocket square rules for a when pairing your pocket square with a suit relative to wearing a sports jacket or blazer. However, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.

 

Firstly, a suit is a more formal option than a stand-alone jacket, therefore you will often be wearing it in a more formal environment. Therefore, the safest choice is to wear a plain or very lightly patterned square in a presidential fold such as the below.

 

Suit pocket square with presidential fold

 

The next thing to consider is the pattern of the suit. Depending on your own personal style, if you choose to go for a more vibrant pattern with your suit then the more formal etiquette would be to go for a plainer pocket square design to provide balance. Note the square in the below image complementing the shirt colour for a beautifully balanced look that is perfect for a corporate environment.

 

Suit pocket square etiquette

 

Finally, there is the more flamboyant look, where the accessories are contrasting against the suit colour. In the below, you have a navy-blue suit with the small hint of burgundy in the pocket square complementing the tie. This style is our favourite look for a suit, where it's not over the top, but definitely displays a sartorial flair to leave a lasting impression.

 

We are often asked, what colour pocket square with a navy suit works best as the navy suit is such a classic suit choice. Fortunately, a plain navy suit is effectively a blank canvas, so it's more a case of choosing a colour or pattern that is right for the environment, be it business or more casual. 

 

What colour pocket square with a navy suit

TUXEDO POCKET SQUARE RULES

For the most part, there are only two main rules when choosing your tuxedo pocket square colour. If it's a formal black-tie event, it's generally considered appropriate to wear a white pocket square in a presidential pocket square fold (flat fold), or a conservative puff fold.

 

However, for the vast majority of events that you will attend, a pocket square with a pop of colour is more than acceptable, and often the way that you can differentiate yourself for everyone else. It's also worth considering wearing a tuxedo with a more adventurous colour other than the standard black.

 

 

 

Pocket square black-tie Tuxedo pocket square Tuxedo pocket square rules

POCKET SQUARE STYLES

One of the great things about a pocket square is they are so incredibly versatile in how you wear them and reasonably subtle changes can have a big impact on your style. The colour that you choose and the fold that you use is really a function on the colour of your outfit, the nature of the occasion, whether it be for work, or more formal such as a wedding, and your own personal style.

 

When choosing what pocket square to wear with a suit, you could choose a conservative fold such as a flat fold and position it so that it is around a half to an inch is viewable above your pocket. Whereas is you use colours that are in high contrast with your jacket and use a more flamboyant fold that really catches the eye. Below are some examples from our Instagram feed of some more conservative and flamboyant looks that demonstrate how to wear a pocket square.

 

Conservative Styles

So firstly, below are more conservative styles. The pocket square is quite subtle in its positioning and also the colours complement other hues in the outfit.

 

Flamboyant Styles

In comparison, below are some images that are more flamboyant in either their colour contrast or fold. With the more flamboyant styles the square naturally draws the eye and makes more of a style statement.

 

Pocket Square Styles

 

Pocket Square Without Tie Styles

Some people have a perception of the type of occasion around when to wear a pocket square, i.e. formal and worn with a James Bond style suit and tie.

 

pocket square without tie 

POCKET SQUARE HOLDERS

It is possible to buy pocket square cards, or a pocket square holder that effectively holds your fold in place. We would strongly advise against these products for a couple of obvious reasons.

 

Secondly, by wearing a pocket square you are instantly elevating your style, displaying that you are a man of sartorial flair and panache. For that same man to be relying on a pocket square fold card is akin to wearing a clip-on tie, rather embarrassing if spotted.

 

Simple pocket square folds such as the puff or two point, are easy to master and give you the opportunity to display your personality while taking the time to master a complicated fold can be both enjoyable and create a real talking point at your event or occasion.

 

POCKET SQUARE VS POCKET HANDKERCHIEF VS SUIT HANDKERCHIEF?

Finally, we do get asked whether you should refer to it as a pocket square, pocket handkerchief, suit handkerchief or even the French term pochette. For the most part, they are interchangeable, however, we definitely would advise using the term pocket square. A handkerchief does have the connotation of something that you use to blow your nose, whereas a pocket square (or pochette if you want to display your European flair) is a classic touch of sartorial elegance, essential to completing your outfit.

 

CONCLUSION

In short, pocket square offers an incredibly versatile accessory option; allowing modern men to express themselves and vary their look without having to invest in different suits and outerwear.