The Pocket Square – An Introduction
Of all the various accessories
available to the gentleman, the handkerchief in the jacket’s breast pocket is
quite likely the least understood.
What colour to choose, which fabric is right, and how to
fold it properly are just some of the questions that add to the apprehension.
The dress handkerchief doesn’t have to be a mysterious and
frightening item; with a little know-how and a few simple rules, it can become
a standard – and debonair – part of any gentleman’s wardrobe.
Pocket Square Rule # 1
The cardinal rule of dress handkerchiefs – or pocket
squares, as they’re often called – is that the handkerchief is never identical
to the tie.
The patterned, silky squares that come attached to ties
should be ignored outright – they’re there for convenience, not style.
A dress handkerchief is intended as an accessory that brings
a bit of contrast and attention to a suit, and that can’t happen when it is
perfectly-matched.
Even worse, it tends to make the ensemble look like a
package special, which is never what the well-dressed man is looking for.
What you should strive for is a
pocket handkerchief that perfectly complements your outfit; like a well-placed
garnish, it should only add to the presentation and never overpower or take
away.
Pocket Square Rule # 2
One never uses a dress handkerchief for anything but show.
Instead, carry a plain white cotton handkerchief in your trouser back pocket
for general use.
Just as a gentleman wouldn’t think of using his tie to cover
his nose, or using his jacket to mop up a spill, so likewise he does not use
his dress handkerchief for such tasks.
A secondary benefit of having a handkerchief for regular use
is the aristocratic impression it tends to convey.
It is a lost art to see a man provide a clean white
handkerchief to a lady who is suddenly overcome with emotion or other distress.
One quick note: insist that the lady retain the handkerchief after she has
recovered.
A warning: many retailers offer
small squares of cardboard with fabric attached, intended to imitate the look
of a square without actually learning to fold it.
These are like pre-tied bow-ties and clip-on neckties:
shortcuts that any stylish gentleman should avoid.
One of the greatest benefits of learning to dress elegantly
is the control it affords over one’s attire, control that clip-on ties and
cardboard squares can never provide.
The options for dress handkerchiefs are endless: a wide
number of fabrics from which to choose, an infinite array of colours and
patterns, and a world of origami-like folds await the gentleman who decides to
adopt it.
The dress handkerchief is an elegant touch brought to a
well-crafted ensemble, and a symbol of the confidence in one’s own style,
displayed for the world to see.
............................................................................
POCKET SQUARE RULES AND ETIQUETTE
Whether you’re a pocket square aficionado or just a dabbler
in menswear trends, navigating the etiquette of this accessory can admittedly
be a bit of a sartorial minefield so below we've set out our pocket square
guide.
HOW TO WEAR A POCKET SQUARE:
General pocket square rules
Different pocket square styles
What colour pocket square to choose for an occasion
Should your square match, complement or contrast with your
outfit?
Are you aiming for a smart or casual aesthetic, or mulling
over what pocket square to wear at work?
If all of these questions leave you feeling a bit flummoxed,
read on for our comprehensive pocket square guide on how to wear your square
with panache.
how to wear a pocket square pocket square guide matching tie
and pocket square
WHEN TO WEAR A POCKET SQUARE
Historically, the pocket square was a necessity for guests
attending dinner parties and other formal engagements. The classic pocket
square fashion for smart occasions remains much the same today: a white,
handkerchief-style pocket square folded into a flat fold (more on that later).
However, even within the sphere of formal attire, there is still scope to
experiment with your arrangement and move outside the standard white pocket
square rule.
We are occasionally asked, is there ever a time not to wear
a pocket square? The answer to that is not really. Once you become a regular
square wearer, you'll find that not wearing a square is like leaving the house
without your shoes.
It's really a case of degrees. If you want to go for a very
conservative look choose a pocket square that is only a shade or two lighters than
your jacket and go for a flat fold, or something that provides just a little
bit of contrast such as a dark brown square with polka dots.
when not to wear a pocket square
Tonal monochrome shades work well for pocket squares teamed
with black or grey suits, for instance, while a vibrant pop of red adds
interest to crisp blue suits, particularly in summer. A puff fold can also
offer a more nonchalant approach to formal dressing than the classic flat fold.
However, in more recent times, the pocket square’s recent
resurgence in popularity has also led to an influx of men elevating their
everyday looks and showing a bit of sartorial flair.
We like to keep a plain white pocket square for formal
occasions, but a square that is predominately white with either a coloured
edging or light pattern provides a relatively conservative look that will work
in all business environments.
white pocket square
A well-cut suit or jacket certainly makes a strong statement
about a man, but to really stand out, it's your accessories that really make
all the difference. Just look at the difference the humble pocket square can
add to a relatively simple jacket. Not a flamboyant colour combination or fold,
but a subtle accent featuring our Kinglet Calyptra that works perfectly in the
work environment.
When to wear a pocket square
In fact, that's one of the reason's we started Rampley &
Co. We felt that there was a dearth of truly unique and interesting men's
accessories so we partnered with some of the world's leading galleries to try
and create striking accessories which you can be seen in our online store.
So, the question is no longer when you should wear a pocket
square, it is indeed how you should wear your pocket square. To truly dress
like a gentleman, we've created a free eBook which covers factors such as
pairing your tie and pocket square, how to match your accessories, how your
jacket should fit etc. The free guide can be downloaded here: 13 Essential
Rules to Dressing Like A Gentleman.
MATCHING TIE AND POCKET SQUARE
One question we often get asked is around whether you should
be matching your tie and pocket square. The short answer is no. Although it
might seem like an easy way to coordinate your outfit, matching your pocket
square and tie or bow tie is a definite no-no in modern dress.
Instead, the purpose of the pocket square is to complement
the rest of your look: either by harmonising or contrasting with your other
accessories. So, although some stores even offer matching tie and pocket square
sets, our advice is to steer clear of these if you want to be seen to be on top
of your style game.
If your pocket square has a pattern or print, for example,
then pick a colour from that palette to bring your look together and match it
to a primary colour in your ties.
Matching tie and pocket square
Equally, you could choose a pocket square that is a shade lighter or darker than the core colour of your ensemble. Remember, it’s all in the detail, so don’t be afraid to bring out an accent colour on a subtle pinstripe or checked shirt.
Alternatively, if you want to make your pocket square the
focal point of your look, you could opt to clash your pocket square with your
tie and, indeed, the rest of your outfit. With this, it really is a case of
‘the bolder the better’: experiment with vibrant colours, eclectic prints or
even textured materials such as chambray, leather or tweed to pull this off.
So that you know you should never directly match your pocket
square and tie, below we have set out some basic tie and pocket square rules so
you will always look sharp.
POCKET SQUARE RULES
Below is a handy pocket square guide when choosing your
pocket square:
Choose a secondary colour from your shirt or tie as the
primary colour for your pocket square
Don't overdo the patterns, ensure some articles of clothing
are flat colours which will accentuate the colours in your pocket square or tie
Don't directly match your tie and pocket square
Match your fold to the occasion. For formal occasions stick
to the flat fold or one- or two-point folds, for more casual occasions use some
more flare with the classic puff fold or one of the more flamboyant fold as set
out below.
White pocket square rules; for the most part, there are no
rules. White squares work with every jacket and tie combination and colour so
you can never really get it wrong with a white pocket square.
POCKET SQUARE FABRIC OPTIONS
Silk Pocket Squares
One of the most popular fabrics for pocket squares is silk.
Silk has the properties of not only feeling very luxurious, but is also the
perfect material for luminous colours as the light hits it from different
angles you can get different pops of colour, which adds real interest to an outfit.
Also well known for being a fine fabric which means you can achieve a number of
intricate silk pocket square folds.
However, the main reason we use silk for the majority of our
pocket squares is the incredible detail that can be achieved when working with
a quality fabric. Silk provides the perfect canvas to provide both the
sharpness of image and vibrancy of different shades. You can see an example of
this here, with our Pollice Verso Pocket Square.
Our Abduction of Ganymede pocket square is a good example of
the vibrancy that working with silk provides. The yellows and golds contrast
brilliantly against the darker colours in the piece. This allows for a number
of different looks depending on how the pocket square folded.
Wool/Silk Squares
One of the most underrated fabrics for pocket squares is the
mix of silk and wool. It takes the best of both worlds, the luxurious feel of
the silk, and the texture of the wool, in order to create a beautiful,
lightweight fabric. The result is not as bright as silk and therefore more
adapted to some situations, but it has a unique texture which pairs very well
with silk ties. The presence of both materials makes it very light.
The wool tends to make it wrinkle resistant, and therefore
allows it to drape beautifully while looking great with all different kinds of
folds. The silk brings a small shine to it and enhances the details. The most
common blend is 70% wool and 30% silk. While 100% wool pocket squares are more
adapted to winter and autumn, a mix of wool and silk works for all year round.
Compared to other fabrics, this blend pairs particularly
well with all suit fabrics. You can either wear a wool and mohair fabric, or a
heavier fabric like Tweed or Herringbone. It is therefore very versatile, and a
strong addition to a collection.
On a pocket square like La Gourmandise (far left), we chose
wool/silk for the fabric as it gives a perfect result - the texture is highly
visible on the lighter parts of the painting, while the silk helps the blue and
yellow to shine. The outcome is a pocket square which can be paired with both
dark and lighter suits and blazers. While 'Spark' (far right) has both the
vibrancy of silk and the lightweight texture of the wool to make it a perfect
summer square.
The texture is also an ideal complement to the designs,
which are historical deco, so gives them a certain old-world charm.
Linen Pocket Squares
Linen is one of the oldest fabrics in the world, and it is
completely made of natural materials. It is very resistant to wear and tear,
yet very light. As a result, linen pocket squares are often associated with
summer, where lighter fabrics are worn.
They are less shiny than silk and can be worn with a
contrasting fabric like a tuxedo for a black-tie event, but a double-breasted
linen jacket will also pair very well with a linen pocket square. The only
downside of linen is that it requires ironing quite often, as it wrinkles very
easily.
Linen pocket squares look smarter than cotton pocket
squares, and can be worn with both formal jackets, casual looks. The matte
aspect of linen pairs well with silk ties, as well as wool ties.
Linen pocket square Cotton Squares
Cotton pocket squares tend to be the most affordable, since
cotton is not an expensive material, however they do not have the same panache
or vitality of higher quality fabrics like silk or wool/silk. Cotton tends to
be used for handkerchiefs and is not considered a luxurious fabric.
Once you’ve chosen your square, there remains the
all-important decision of pocket square folds. As mentioned, you should match
your fold to the occasion, but also keep in mind that certain folds will lift
the colours in your square. The classic pocket square fold is known as the flat
fold or presidential fold, and is often seen in classic images and TV programs
set in the 50's and 60's.
presidential fold pocket square
While this evokes images of another time, it now really only
works for formal events. We would definitely advocate experimenting with folds
that are a bit more flamboyant.
The simplest to achieve is the puff fold with your pocket
square, which involves pinching the centre of the square and then twisting or
folding it, before placing it in your breast pocket so that the corners are at
the bottom and the central design remains visible. Not only is this fold easy
to achieve, but it works for most situations from the office through to a
summer wedding, see more on this below.
puff fold with check jacket puff fold puff fold pocket
square
If your square has a design that incorporates an interesting
border then you want to make the most of this with a point fold or perhaps a
Dunaway fold.
For step-by-step guides on how to achieve different folds,
see our pocket square folding guides here: how to fold a pocket square.
How to Fold A Pocket Square for A Wedding
Often a wedding is when all gentlemen like to look their
Sunday best. Even for those not normally known for their elegant dress sense,
it is one of the few times each year they will be prepared to make a concerted
effort. Below are 3 of our favourite folds for a wedding, in order from the
most conservative to the most flamboyant. Click on the image to go through to
our folding guide for that particular look.
The Puff Fold
The Stairs Fold
The Reverse Puff
WHITE POCKET SQUARES
Perhaps the most classic of all is the men's white pocket
square. From the grainy white pocket square, black suit photos from the early
20th century, this simple square has an illustrious history. The key reason
being that this square works with every jacket and pattern combination, there
are no real white pocket square rules to take into account when selecting your
chosen outfit.
The classic understated look is the flat fold as seen below
on the left. This is the most formal look and works for any situation or event
you may be attending. Our advice would be that this simple square can be
elevated with just a touch of colour, whether that be evidenced coming through
in your fold or by having a coloured edging to your square.
One look that that is always timeless, is the white pocket
square navy suit combination as seen below.
White pocket square rules White pocket square navy suit
BLACK POCKET SQUARES
The pocket square is generally used to provide a bit of
sartorial flair to your outfit, with contrast generally being the key goal. The
black pocket square when paired with a dark navy or black jacket being the
exception to this.
Often used in more formal settings, it can give you quite a
polished finish. However, the main issue is that often your sartorial
endeavours are not even visible until others are within touching distance.
black pocket square
It is our opinion that if you are looking to get the
plaudits you deserve with a black pocket square you should either go for a
square with a hint of pattern or a classic white shoestring. The white trim
will always give that clear contrast that completes the jacket
beautifully.
black pocket square with white trim
SUIT POCKET SQUARES
As a general rule of thumb, there are no distinct pocket
square rules for a when pairing your pocket square with a suit relative to
wearing a sports jacket or blazer. However, there are a couple of things to
keep in mind.
Firstly, a suit is a more formal option than a stand-alone
jacket, therefore you will often be wearing it in a more formal environment.
Therefore, the safest choice is to wear a plain or very lightly patterned
square in a presidential fold such as the below.
Suit pocket square with presidential fold
The next thing to consider is the pattern of the suit. Depending
on your own personal style, if you choose to go for a more vibrant pattern with
your suit then the more formal etiquette would be to go for a plainer pocket
square design to provide balance. Note the square in the below image
complementing the shirt colour for a beautifully balanced look that is perfect
for a corporate environment.
Suit pocket square etiquette
Finally, there is the more flamboyant look, where the
accessories are contrasting against the suit colour. In the below, you have a navy-blue
suit with the small hint of burgundy in the pocket square complementing the
tie. This style is our favourite look for a suit, where it's not over the top,
but definitely displays a sartorial flair to leave a lasting impression.
We are often asked, what colour pocket square with a navy
suit works best as the navy suit is such a classic suit choice. Fortunately, a
plain navy suit is effectively a blank canvas, so it's more a case of choosing
a colour or pattern that is right for the environment, be it business or more
casual.
What colour pocket square with a navy suit
TUXEDO POCKET SQUARE RULES
For the most part, there are only two main rules when
choosing your tuxedo pocket square colour. If it's a formal black-tie event,
it's generally considered appropriate to wear a white pocket square in a
presidential pocket square fold (flat fold), or a conservative puff fold.
However, for the vast majority of events that you will
attend, a pocket square with a pop of colour is more than acceptable, and often
the way that you can differentiate yourself for everyone else. It's also worth
considering wearing a tuxedo with a more adventurous colour other than the
standard black.
Pocket square black-tie Tuxedo pocket square Tuxedo pocket
square rules
POCKET SQUARE STYLES
One of the great things about a pocket square is they are so
incredibly versatile in how you wear them and reasonably subtle changes can
have a big impact on your style. The colour that you choose and the fold that
you use is really a function on the colour of your outfit, the nature of the
occasion, whether it be for work, or more formal such as a wedding, and your
own personal style.
When choosing what pocket square to wear with a suit, you
could choose a conservative fold such as a flat fold and position it so that it
is around a half to an inch is viewable above your pocket. Whereas is you use
colours that are in high contrast with your jacket and use a more flamboyant
fold that really catches the eye. Below are some examples from our Instagram
feed of some more conservative and flamboyant looks that demonstrate how to
wear a pocket square.
Conservative Styles
So firstly, below are more conservative styles. The pocket square is quite subtle in its positioning and also the colours complement other hues in the outfit.
Flamboyant Styles
In comparison, below are some images that are more flamboyant
in either their colour contrast or fold. With the more flamboyant styles the
square naturally draws the eye and makes more of a style statement.
Pocket Square Styles
Pocket Square Without Tie Styles
Some people have a perception of the type of occasion around when to wear a pocket square, i.e. formal and worn with a James Bond style suit and tie.
pocket square without tie
POCKET SQUARE HOLDERS
It is possible to buy pocket square cards, or a pocket square holder that effectively holds your fold in place. We would strongly advise against these products for a couple of obvious reasons.
Secondly, by wearing a pocket square you are instantly
elevating your style, displaying that you are a man of sartorial flair and
panache. For that same man to be relying on a pocket square fold card is akin
to wearing a clip-on tie, rather embarrassing if spotted.
Simple pocket square folds such as the puff or two point,
are easy to master and give you the opportunity to display your personality
while taking the time to master a complicated fold can be both enjoyable and
create a real talking point at your event or occasion.
POCKET SQUARE VS POCKET HANDKERCHIEF VS SUIT HANDKERCHIEF?
Finally, we do get asked whether you should refer to it as a
pocket square, pocket handkerchief, suit handkerchief or even the French term
pochette. For the most part, they are interchangeable, however, we definitely
would advise using the term pocket square. A handkerchief does have the
connotation of something that you use to blow your nose, whereas a pocket
square (or pochette if you want to display your European flair) is a classic
touch of sartorial elegance, essential to completing your outfit.
CONCLUSION
In short, pocket square offers an incredibly versatile accessory option; allowing modern men to express themselves and vary their look without having to invest in different suits and outerwear.