The blades are packed in a heavyweight zip bag individually wrapped in rust-inhibiting paper.
NOTE: I've had some of these blades manufactured in carbide. Include "carbide" in your search and you'll find them. Carbide is much more expensive than HSS, but they should last many times longer. See the listing for them for more details.
These fit jointer-planer model numbers 149.236223, 149.236222, 149.236221, and 149.236220 and are reported to fit 149.236922, and 149.236993, and probably fit other 2-blade models. They don't fit all Sears 4-1/8" jointer-planers. To see if they will fit yours, compare your blades with the drawing shown in the pictures. If your machine has more than two blades, these are the wrong ones. If your blades don't have holes, these are also the wrong ones. The Sears part number for these blades is 2292-025-00 (sometimes written as 2292-25) -- you can find the part number of your blades in the manual for your jointer-planer, or on the Sears parts website.
The blades are 4.173" long, 0.862" wide, and 0.072 thick, with three slotted holes.
Sears says these blades are no longer available, but here at exeye, they are!
I've noticed that some Chinese seller has copied my blades and my listing, and is selling them a bit cheaper. One problem is that they ship from China and you'll be waiting weeks and weeks to get them. Mine ship from the US (NY) and you'll get them quickly. Pick Priority Mail Flat Rate Envelope as the shipping method and you'll get them even quicker for not a lot more. Also, if you buy from me, you'll be supporting a US seller; if you buy from the Chinese seller, all your money goes to China. Update: they dropped their price, so I dropped mine!
The other seller claims that their blades are made from M-2 HSS hardened to Rockwell 62-64. There are two Rockwell standards, HRB and HRC, and an M-2 steel hardness of 62-64 is too low for HRB and too high for HRC. So the specs are probably inaccurate or exaggerated, and if not, the blades would be very brittle. My blades are made from W-6 HSS, which is equivalent to M-2 but uses a different heat treatment method. I don't have a spec for hardness, but am trying to get one.
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These don't fit all Craftsman jointer/planers! Be sure to check your blades with the dimensions I have given!
I am trying to collect a list of model numbers that these blades do not fit:
113.206400 4-3/8" jointer planer
If you have a jointer/planer model that these blades do not fit and you can't find them elsewhere, please contact me with your model number. I will consider having them made, or let you know where you can find them.
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Notes about these jointer-planers:
Belts are also discontinued by Sears but replacements are available. They are 120XL037 12" 60-tooth 3/8" width timing belts. These are readily available, and I am selling these belts at a low cost in another listing.
Motors are also a part that people are looking for. Unfortunately it is a very non-standard motor and is no longer made. I hear of two failure modes for these motors: bearing failure and cracking of the plastic case. Bearings are a standard item and if you can get to them you should be able to ID them and buy replacements. Case cracks are more serious, but I would try "Plastic Welder" epoxy which gives a pretty strong repair. I do not plan on selling motors or other parts for these machines.
Bearings are a standard hardware item. I think they are 6200-2RS bearings, but if you need to replace them, take the old ones out and look at the number on them, or take them to a bearing supplier. They are readily available and are inexpensive.
I have a PDF copy of the manual for 149.236223 available free on my website. Search for the model number, "149.236223", and "exeye", my eBay user name. If you have a different model, search Google (or whatever) for your model number and "manual". I haven't found one that wasn't available. With the manual, you can look up the part number for your blades, and see if it matches this one.
The manual has instructions for changing the blades. The way I set the height is to adjust the infeed table to the same height as the outfeed table (zero cutting depth) then use a straightedge to get the two blades set to the same height across their width. It only takes a couple of minutes.