The History of the Macedonian Filigree
The technique of filigree was introduced in the Macedonian territory through Byzantium where it existed from the 7th till the 12th century. This period is also known as Medieval Period. Chronologically it lasted until the establishment of the Ottoman Empire in these regions. Within the Ottoman rule the term filigree was changed by the Turkish term KOVENDZISTVO (forging) or KUJUNDZISTVO (blacksmithing). The filigree technique and production has spread throughout the entire Ottoman Empire and Macedonia became the cradle of the most representative filigree artists. During this period the term filigree was replaced by the term SRMA (sterling silver or gold thread) which means pure silver. The filigree artists were called TELESHI (Turkish term). Throughout the 16th century significant jewelry centers existed through Macedonia such as those in Skopje, Kriva Palanka, Ochrid, Bitola, Struga, Debar, Krushevo, Prilep and Kratovo. Jewelry with local specificities was produced in the towns of Struga and Bitola. The Macedonian traditional costumes from the 18th, 19th and the beginning of the 20th century are enriched and decorated with traditional jewelry – filigree. The KOVENDZISTVO was considered an urban craft while the separate items were thus urban jewelry. In the elaboration of the filigree the role of the artisan – master has always been most important. The aesthetics and the functionality of the objects made in filigree depended on the individuality of the artisan-master, his inventiveness, precision and creativity. The tools used in the filigree technique have underwent modernization, but the basic tools have always remained the same. Apart for jewelry the filigree was also used for elaboration of different decorative objects, crosses, nimbuses, candle-lights, ornaments for secular books, household vessels, candlesticks, cigarette cases and tobacco tins, powder boxes, jewelry boxes, umbrella handles, decorative objects etc. The filigree wire was also used as embroidery on silk and velvet fabrics. On the Macedonian traditional costumes the filigree ornaments have always been additionally emphasized by silver coins. A significant part of the Macedonian traditional costumes were also the traditional belt buckles called PAFTI, the string-pendants called KISKI, headdresses called TAPELAKS, chains called KJUSTEKS, CHAPRAZI, KIFCHINJA etc. The Macedonian filigree ornaments are abundant with floral and geometric motifs. The remarkable filigree artists in Macedonia of those times were Macedonians, Vlachs, Turks, Albanians (Catholic) from Kosovo also known as Latins. The Macedonian filigree masters from the 18th and the 19th century put brand stamps on their works. From the middle and by the end of the 19th century the Macedonian filigree artists reached far beyond the local production characteristics.
In the beginning of the 20th century (1947-1958) the filigree association “Vardar” was established whose membership included the best Macedonian artisan-masters of the time. The Macedonian filigree jewelry is usually made of silver, enriched by pearls, Adriatic red corals stone, precious and semi precious stones. The jewelry was gilded for color warmth and as protection from patina. The Macedonian filigree is considered authentic, although it also possesses Oriental and Western segments.