This very handy kit, a US Recording Media exclusive for 1/4" open reel tape, is really nice since it
doesn't sacrifice quality, is an outstanding value, and can be used
for years. The kit comes with one very popular yellow dual crosscut TME-S15NP ABS+ polymer splicing block with a polished Surelock™ center groove to hold your tape into
place with a gentle friction fit for a professional splice, plus one crosscut at 45 degrees the other
at 90 degrees. The precision friction fit keeps your tape from swimming around in the groove like you will get with other blocks.
The 90 degree cut is for a butt splice for adding
leader, and the 45 degree cut is for splicing within the tape itself,
for instance if you were cutting out a pop. The block will gently hold your tape into position for accurate splicing. This is the primary function of a splicing block; if it doesn't hold your tape in place it's nearly useless. (Please see photo of competitor tape grip test to see what we mean about gripping the tape!)
Also included is one 82 FT roll of top selling TME® splicing tape. In addition, you get one 250 foot roll of the
archival quality solid white leader tape, the same tape used
by the leading archives in the USA. This leader is solid white, not painted clear
plastic like that sold by others. Lastly, you get one USA Made stainless steel triple facet cut media edge razor blade
included so you do not have to run out and find one.
Note:
The cross slots for cutting your media are designed for .009" thickness
blades. Do not use thicker blades or you can damage the block and void
your warranty. Included media blade is very sharp! Keep away from children, animals, and people not suited to have sharp objects.
How to buy a splicing block... which one is for me? (This part is a little long but if you're not sure you might want to read this.)
When buying a splicing block, there's a few important things to nail
down as far as what you need:
1.)
First of all, what tape width block do you
need? There are five basic widths of audio recording tape, 1/4", 1/2",
1", 2", and .15" (audio cassette and DAT). The home user generally
buys a splicing block for 1/4" tape (open reel) or an audio cassette/DAT
block.
2.)
The second thing is what physical size block do you need? There's three basic sizes
of splicing blocks, Micro, Mini (or medium), and Pro Full Size. Most
people buy a medium size block because they're less expensive than a
full size block, and they can be mounted on many tape deck head block
covers. Generally these blocks are around 4" long and 3/4" wide. The Micro
blocks to most people are too difficult to use and not worth it. We
don't offer micro blocks. Pro or full size blocks for 1/4" tape are
generally around 5.75" to 6" long and 1" wide.
3.)
The third thing is what material is the block made from? There's two
basic materials used by both Editall® and US Recording: Polymer and
Aluminum.
Polymer blocks are very rugged and forgiving, and a lot
less expensive than aluminum because much of what would have to be machined can be molded into the polymer precisely and automatically. A well made anodized aluminum
block can last longer than a polymer block if it is used thousands of times, but this difference is normally noticed if you make many many splices.
We have polymer blocks in the field now since June 2019 and we have yet
to have any wear complaints or materials issues. As far as warping,
twisting, or anything like that. it's a non-existent since the material is
completely stable. If you bend an aluminum block, it will stay bent, and most likely snap if you try to unbend it. The memory inherent of our polymer will return to its original shape unharmed all on its own. (Don't try this at home! If you bend any block too far it can snap.)
Aluminum Blocks: VERY Important Note: If you decide on an aluminum block, unfortunately these days, you have to verify the block is anodized.
This used to be a standard, but it seems now some businesses are more
worried about squeezing out the most money than quality.
All our TME® aluminum blocks are hard
industrial anodized TYPE III which adds years to the life to the block by
vastly hardening the surface hardness against abrasion from the cutting
blade. Aluminum that is not anodized will corrode and that corrosion will come off on your tape.
Very bad. You can normally tell if aluminum is actually anodized simply by rubbing some white paper on it and see if dark gray *stuff* is coming off the block. Unless you like corrosion and aluminum *rust* coming off on your hands and tape, we advise never to buy a non-anodized aluminum block despite perhaps being told otherwise something like "It doesn't matter*. (Please see photo of competitor corrosion test to see what we mean!) They use corroded aluminum to make sandpaper (aluminum oxide.) Do you really want that going across your tape heads?
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