Polymer clay canes, see photo for size compared with a penny, and all canes are 2” long.

This one is a complex leaf design.   You can add a few leaves to floral work, or.... I've seen people use leaf canes to make some really cool looking scales.   If you need smaller sizes, reducing the cane gives you a longer but smaller diameter piece.   You can also squeeze both ends together (carefully)  and make a much fatter design, though you will get a shorter bit of cane.   Ask me for tips if you need help with this.

I use several brands of polymer clay, mostly fimo, sculpy, and occasionally kato.  

Please note, I made canes for years, sold on assorted other sites until they one by one they got greedy and stupid.   I closed my shops and always thought I'd just use my own website to sell on.  Just never happened, and people contact me all the time wanting to buy canes, it's a pain, I have to photograph my bins, they pick what they want, yea it's a pain.   Then due to some massive home repairs I put the whole hobby aside.  So canes listed here now were made several years ago.   They were immediately wrapped in plastic leaving both ends exposed then stacked in open bins.   Mind you, polymer clay is not an air dry clay.  These remain raw until they are baked so having both ends open is not a problem.
 
That being said, those bins first in my garage where I use do make these, then in a corner of a spare bedroom.   In all that time some dust has collected on the wrappers, and sadly some crud stuck to the very ends of the canes.   I opened one of the worst, and this is just very superficial.  Only a very tiny bit on each end might be effected.  And I have always cut my canes slightly longer than 2” so you really aren’t losing anything by scraping the ends.   

So use.   Polymer clay is a soft plastic until it’s been cured in the oven.  265f for 15 min is all you need for thin pieces.   Thin meaning… cane slices can be applied to just about anything that you can put in the oven.   Tin boxes, pens (be sure plastic pens can be baked, ask me I’ve made those for years too.)  Even eggs can be covered in polymer clay.  That would be considered a thin layer and only 15 min in a 265 oven does fine.   

Now you can also slice thicker pieces, say oh, 3/4 inch and bake those, Drill holes and viola, beads. When in doubt, it can bake just a bit longer.  Say a half hour.  I’d drop the temp down to 260 though.  One thing you never want to do is overheat the clay.  It will scorch and stink.  yuck.  And if that happens?   Despite what you may find online, it’s no more toxic than burnt bacon.  Just air out the house and you will be fine.   A good idea would be check your oven with a thermometer first so you never have that nasty surprise.

Ovens… some people use their home oven, and some use a toaster oven.  Both will work just fine.  BUT some things to be aware of….   home ovens CAN pick up the smell of the clay.  Personally I use my kitchen oven and never noticed a problem but it can happen.   If you are worried that your next pie might smell like plastic, simply get a covered roasting pan, one you intend to only use for clay, and bake it while covered.   Again a test with a thermometer would be a good idea, at least once.
As for the toaster oven idea?    BE CAREFUL!   Those are notorious for having cool spots and hot spots.   Spend some time checking every inch of cooking space inside with a thermometer before you ruin your craft.  Once you know where the right temperature spots are, you should be fine.

Now if you have very thick pieces, say sculptures,  thick pieces need to be fully cured all the way through.   So for this I HIGHLY recommend a slightly cooler oven, 260f   and go ahead and let them bake longer.   Poly clay can stay at it's curing temp. for a long time. Hours even.  OR…. repeat bakings are fine as well.  Say you bake a center core, then add to it, bake again, like that.  As long as the clay got to cure all the way through.   If you don’t fully cure thick poly clay pieces, the inside will start to fall apart.   Basically polymer clay is a mix of plastics and plasticizers. The two don’t play nice together over long periods of time.  Anyone who ever tried to work with an old stiff block of clay, and it crumbles, that’s why.   So ALWAYS make sure your finished piece is fully cured all the way through.

(BTW.... old clay that got crumbly isn't bad. It can be reconditioned back to life.  Only once it gets up past 100f will it begin to cure.  Say if you left raw clay in your car, it can actually partially bake and you can't get that back once it does.)

BTW you can bake right on a plain piece of white paper.   When I was first starting out I used tin foil but where the clay sits on it will be shinny.   Using paper put a stop to the shinny spot problem.  This works great for beads too, fold your piece of paper into a fan and lay beads in each crease.   Dandy bead holder.

I have taken requests in the past but until I get a new clay room set up (and it’s taking forever) I’m just going to list what I have.
So if you find something you like, get it while you can.

If you have ANY questions on uses, tips or tricks or anything please feel free to ask.

Shipping;

PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   ASK before you buy.  I really don't want returns.  I'll do it if for some reason you just don't like what  you got, you pay to return it then.

I SHIP TO THE USA ONLY.....  (for now.) 

Lastly yes I will combine to save on shipping..... For now I'm just guessing on shipping, just starting to list canes but I'll get this figured out and will likely adjust shipping charges soon.   If you are international and just love my canes, I HAVE shipped world wide.  So contact me, let me know where you are and I will try to work with you.

Orders are shipped the following weekday.   Unless something unforeseen happens, then I'll let you know.