(REMEMBER, A FROE IS A SPLITTING TOOL, NOT A CUTTING TOOL. IT IS NOT A SHARP TOOL. IF YOU WANT A CUTTING TOOL, BUY AN AXE OR A KNIFE)

IF YOU WANT ONE WITH A HANDLE, PLEASE SEE MY OTHER LISTINGS.

This sale is for one of my hand forged froes with approx 10" splitting edge (blade), supplied WITHOUT HANDLE.

Made in England by ourselves, from Swedish steel, using traditional methods. Thousands sold worldwide for almost ten years.

These froes are made from new 8mm (5/16") EN45 spring steel, an expensive, specialist steel.
The tool is in a "normalised" state and unhardened. A froe is NOT a cutting tool, (hence the expression "as blunt as a froe") it is a splitting tool and is not sharp so does not need a hardened edge.

A froe works like a wedge, pushing the fibres apart. However, a froe must withstand the twisting forces applied by the handle. Therefore, the eye is rolled and not welded. Welded eyes usually split at the welds.

I designed this froe for the work I used to do full time, cleaving long lengths of oak into rails using a cleaving brake. The welded eye froes would break within a few months.

This tool is not just a piece of flat bar with a bevel ground in, the bevel has been forged to shape.

The spine of the froe has a slight curve. In my opinion, this helps the blade introduce the split more effectively than a flat edge because the point of contact is reduced.

The internal diameter of the eye is approximately 40mm.

Weight is approximately 1.5 kg

Frequently asked questions -

"I'm having trouble starting the split"
Don't try to split knotty, twisted grain timber - buy a hydraulic log splitter if you want to do that.  Correct timber selection is vital if you want to work efficiently. Use clean, straight-grained timber. Unseasoned timber is much easier to work. If you are attempting to split timber more than ten inches across the end grain, consider using steel wedges to split the piece down into smaller sections before using the froe.
If you are still having difficultly, you are probably not hitting the froe with something heavy enough. I like to use a heavy club made from green hardwood. Make it as heavy as you can manage. The split should start with only one strike
"DO NOT HIT THE FROE WITH A STEEL HAMMER" Yeah it might take it, for a while, but you risk personal injury and eventually the thing will snap like a carrot!!!

"Is this froe suitable for making roofing shingles"
We have sold many to professional shingle makers.

"Why is the eye not riveted or welded closed?" This is unnecessary. This steel grade is also used to make vehicle leaf springs where the mounting eye, supporting the sprung weight of the vehicle, is also open and subjected to extreme forces - way more than your arm could ever apply to a froe. I believe the traditional way to make a froe is with an open eye.

"Is the eye tapered?" No. It's more of a slight "hourglass" shape internally. This grips the handle once it is knocked into place. Every tapered eye froe I have used has let go of the handle almost immediately when the tool is struck with a mallet. This is very frustrating and makes these tools almost unusable in my opinion.

Remember, it's a froe, not the Space Shuttle.
If you think a froe should have a closed eye, tapered eye, laminated blade,  induction hardened edge, be sharp enough to shave with, etc, etc, because someone on the internet told you. I suggest putting your hand in your pocket and commissioning someone to make you one. Please don't message me asking why my froes don't have these features, I've already explained.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Over 95% of deliveries make it on time and without any problems. However, no system is perfect so please read the following BEFORE ORDERING -
**Please take note of the estimated delivery date. I change dispatch times frequently depending on my workload. The estimated delivery date is also in your purchase history next to the item.** Please don't message me asking when I will dispatch. Thank you.

I always try to dispatch on time. If I can't dispatch on time because of unforeseen circumstances, I will let you know.

The free postage is with Hermes, booked through Ebay. The delivery date is just an estimate. If it's a day or two late, there is nothing I can do about it, so messaging me is a futile exercise. I don't want to be accused of blowing smoke up anyone's backside. If it's more than three days late, please message me.

If your item does not arrive on the estimated day, please understand that it is not a deliberate act of spite on my part. I didn't intend for it to happen. Late deliveries are nearly always a service issue with the courier, not just Hermes, all of them.

If you need a tool urgently then please choose the 24hr service. Again, this is not guaranteed 24hrs and can sometimes take longer. If you absolutely must have it ASAP then message me and I will quote for guaranteed next day delivery.

If your order is very late, goes missing, etc, I will make good on it, with either a refund (as soon as it is declared lost by Ebay's shipping agent) or I will send another one out (as long as you are happy to send one back if it arrives. I will cover postage costs).
Whatever happens, you will either get your order or a refund.

Finally, if you have read everything above and still think it's OK to be rude and abusive because your item didn't arrive on time, please don't order from me. I only deal with grown-ups.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------