Can't
get rid of that Rich Stinky Exhaust at idle?
Without enough Initial timing it is impossible to set up the
carburetor correctly as it won't respond to adjustments without enough timing
to burn the fuel.
Incorrect timing can also be responsible for not only a rich idle but
overheating in traffic, stumble off idle, lazy throttle response, lost horse power,
burned out header gaskets, discoloration of ceramic coatings and poor fuel
economy.
The FBO Limiter Bushing kit will solve many of these issues
if the distributor is correct for the application.
The Black bushing supplied by MSD with your distributor will
allow 18* mechanical advance. Most American V-8 engines require a total of
34-36* under load. With the largest bushing they supply you can only get 16-18*
of Initial timing. In most performance
engines that is not enough to achieve a lean, clean, and crisp idle and get rid
of the eye watering raw fuel fumes caused by inadequate initial timing.
As you have already
discovered you can't get a clean idle with carburetor adjustments, because your
performance engine needs more initial timing. Of course, when you add more
initial timing the total goes up the same amount and causes detonation and
other tuning issues that could seriously damage your engine. MSD will tell you
to lock it out at 36 and buy one of their spark retard units so you can get it
to crank over at 36*. We disagree with this solution because it can
cause even more tuning and performance issues. Your Race motor may like 36*
all the time, but in most applications and street/cruise use it will cause hot hard starting, overheating
and detonation issues at low RPM and high load.
The
MSD distributors come with 3 bushings with the largest one being 18* giving you
18* of mechanical advance. If you're trying to achieve 36* total engine
timing you would set the initial timing at 18* and the MSD black bushing will
limit mechanical advance 18* to bring your total to 36*. By swapping out any of
the stock bushings provided by MSD and using the FBO 10* or 14* bushing, it
will allow you to increase your initial timing and not exceed your desired total
timing. (34* for Mopar, 35* for Ford, and 36* for Chevrolet)
Big
cams bleed off cylinder pressure allowing you to run big initial timing numbers.
This will help you get clean quick starts. We need the motor to have as much
initial timing as possible without kicking back or dragging down the starter
and at the same time still have plenty of initial timing to get clean and quick
starts.
Keep
in mind that the MSD distributors out of the box do not allow the timing to
come all in until 5000+ RPM. You will
need to run a heavier spring combination so that your timing mark is not jumping
around when you are trying to set your initial timing. Too light of a spring will allow the weights
to bounce off the stop at idle and cause the timing mark to go crazy when you
are trying to set your initial timing or even be allowing the distributor to be
advancing at idle causing too much timing at the top end. If you’re running a
3000-4000 or bigger stall convertor there is no need to bring the timing all in
until just below the stall, you won't load the motor until the convertor locks,
so there's no performance gain in running your distributor all in at 1500-2000
RPM.
We
recommend all engines that are producing enough vacuum, to use a distributor with
an adjustable vacuum advance connected to a constant manifold vacuum
source. The constant source gives you
the additional vacuum timing when the vacuum is present and drops when there is
not enough vacuum to the source. This
helps give additional timing at idle and part cruise throttle to continue
running clean. Our rule of thumb is "If the engine will make 7-8" of
Manifold Vacuum at idle with the idle timing set at 30* then it should have a properly
curved vacuum type distributor and connected to a CONSTANT Manifold vacuum
port.
These bushings will fix most
rich idle conditions. The 10* bushing is
now milled on 2 sides to allow easier identification. The 14* bushing is smooth on all sides.
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