Further explanation of this multi-listing: Recently, there's been a bit of confusion with some buyers not understanding how a multi-listing works. So, I'm going to try to further explain it here. This is a multi-listing. That means there are many listings within this listing. The Listing title states "Autograph, GU, and Serial." That DOES NOT MEAN EVERY CARD IN THIS LISTING HAS ALL THREE OF THOSE ATTRIBUTES. That only means cards in this listing have one or more of those three attributes. So, please refer to the variation title for specifics on each variation. Thank you, for looking.

Shipping for first item is $5.00
Shipping for each additional item on the same invoice is FREE!!!
(In order to take advantage of combined shipping discount, please use the shopping cart to collect your items and when you are done shopping pay for ALL YOUR ITEMS AT ONCE ON ONE INVOICE. Paying for items separately creates an invoice for each item, incurring unnecessary Ebay and Paypal fees. Using the shopping cart SAVES YOU MONEY so please use it. Thank you.)

mtdcards

Condition Chart: I'm not a professional grader but this is my personal breakdown on condition.
MT-MINT: I rarely call a card Mint. It has to be beyond perfect, very unlikely, especially with vintage cards.
NM-Near Mint: Card is near mint, minimal visible imperfections, no visible creases, may have very slight wrinkle, may have slight corner wear.
EX-Excellent: Card is excellent, might have a single or very slight crease or surface wrinkles(s), slight centering issues, and/or corner wear. 
VG-Very Good: Card is in very good shape, but has a couple imperfections, ie. crease(s), wrinkle(s), smudge, centering issues, writing, paper loss, etc.
G-Good: Card is in good shape, but has many imperfections, ie. crease(s), wrinkle(s), smudge, off-center, writing, paper loss, clipping, etc.
F-Fair: Card is in rough shape, with even more or more severe imperfections, ie. crease(s), wrinkle(s), smudge, off-center, writing, paper loss, clipping, etc.
P-Poor: Card is in very bad shape, with numerous problems.
Additional Condition Abbreviations: a/e = Along Edge, bl = Blurry, bn = Bend, ca = Crack, ch = Chip, cl = Clipping, cr = Crease, dm = Damage, ds = Discolored, e/d = Edge Damage, fd = Faded, gl = Gloss Loss, gr = Grime, gs = Gum Stain, in = Indent, ms = Miscut, o/b = On Back, o/c = Off Center, o/e = On Edge, o/f = On Front, ph = Pinhole, pl = Paper Loss, pm = Print Marks, pu = Puncture, ri = Rip, sa = Stamp, sc = Scratch, sg = Smudge, sm = Small, sr = Streak, st = Unknown Stain, tn = Tinted, tp = Tape, tr = Tape Residue, wk = Wrinkles, wks = Wrinkles, wr = Wear, wt = Writing, and added "s" for multiples.

Card Type Abbreviations: AL = All-Time Leader Card, AS = All Star Card, ATG = All Time Great, BV = Book Value, CL = Checklist, COR = Correct Card (as opposed to error card), CY = Cy Young Award, ERR = Error Card, GG = Gold Glove, HBV = High Book Value, HL = Highlights, HOF = Hall Of Fame, HOF? = Potential/Future Hall Of Famer, IA = In Action, LL = League Leaders, MG = Manager Card, MVP = Most Valuable Player, NBAC = NBA Champ, #NNO = No Number, PB = Pro-Bowl, PO = Playoff Series, RB = Record Breaker, RC = Rookie, RP = Reprint, ROY = Rookie Of The Year, SB = Super Bowl, SP = Short Print, SS = Silver Slugger, SV = Super Veteran, TBTC = Turn Back The Clock, TC = Team Card, TL = Team Leaders, VAR = Variation, WS = World Series.

Relic Card Abbreviations: COA = Certificate Of Authenticity, GU = Game Used, RIP = Deceased, and SER = Serial.

Brand Abbreviations: BC = Bowman Chrome, BH = Bowman Heritage, BP = Bowman Platinum, EEE = Elite Extra Edition, Imm = Immaculate, LC = Leaf Certified, MD = Leaf Metal Draft, PC = Planini Contenders, PL = Panini Limited, PO = Panini Obsidian, PPR = Platinum Prospects, R&S = Rookies & Stars, TC = Topps Chrome, and TH = Topps Holiday. 

Feedback Policy: We will happily give feedback AFTER entire transaction is complete, meaning after we receive payment, you receive card(s), and you are happy and leave feedback.

Shipping Fee Breakdown: In the interest of full-disclosure, I've recently had to raise my shipping fee to $4. Contrary to what you may think, I am not making any money on shipping. I am not one of those sellers. Believe it or not, I'm still actually losing money on shipping. Here is the breakdown of my selling/shipping cost for a typical $10 single card + $3.50 shipping fee (old shipping fee) on Ebay: $.05 Ebay Insertion Fee + $.92 Ebay Final Value Fee + $.32 Ebay Final Shipping Fee (that's right, Ebay charges a fee for sellers to charge shipping!!!) + $.69 Paypal Fee + $.10 Shipping Materials + $2.70 Actual Shipping Postage = $4.78. Thank you for understanding.