Parfums Caron is a legendary French perfume house founded in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff. With no formal training but with a love of perfume and a very talented nose Daltroff created the perfume house 'Caron' following his purchase of ‘Magasin Caron’ a parfumerie in the heart of fashionable Paris from Anna-Marie Caron at 10 rue de la Paix.
Renamed ‘Parfumerie Caron’ the Caron story began.
However the wider story of Parfums Caron has to include Félicie Wanpouille (also known as Félicie Vanpouille and Félicie Bergaud). In 1907 Wanpouille was asked by Daltroff to advise on the presentation of Caron perfumes. Over time Wanpouille became the ‘couturier’ responsible for the design and presentation of Caron perfumes, from bottle to box. Significantly Wanpouille was understood to be Daltroff’s muse and although Daltroff never formally declared his love, it is said that the emotional undercurrents of this personal and professional relationship inspired some of the most innovative and desired perfumes of the 20th Century.
Together they introduced innovative, luxurious fragrances. which pushed forward the concept of perfume design and culturally defined each era. ‘Narcisse Noir’ (1911) was the first scent from Caron to gain notoriety. ‘N’Aimez Que Moi’ (‘Love No One But Me’) (1916) is said by some to be a secret expression of love between Daltroff and Wanpouille. ‘Tabac Blond’ (1919) was a radical perfume designed for women not afraid to flaunt social conventions and smoke in public. In the 1920’s ‘Bellodgia’ (1927) and in the 1930’s ‘Fleurs de Rocaille’ (1933) and ‘Pour Un Homme’ (1934) set the perfume agenda.
Wanpouille’s presentation of Caron perfumes was not just about sumptuous luxury, it went further pushing avant guard design ideas to set and define each period. At the heart of Wanpouille’s presentation was always a beautifully designed flacon (perfume bottle), manufactured by the famous glass crystal maker Baccarat.
Created in 1933 by Ernest Daltroff ‘Fleurs de Rocaille’ (Rock Garden Flowers) was a floral fragrance designed for women. It begins with a fresh floral heart, followed by a spicy floral heart, resting on a powdery floral base.
The top notes include: Palisander, Rosewood, Neroli, Basil, Coriander, Bergamot, Gardenia and Violet
Middle notes: Carnation, Jonquil, Iris, Lilac, Narcissus, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Violet, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Orris, Mimosa
Base notes: Vetiver, Opoponax, Ambergris, Civet, Musk, Cedar and Indian Sandalwood
Fleurs de Rocaille was originally presented in a footed, squat urn shaped, Wanpouille designed bottle. It came with a glass stopper which contained a small paper floral print covered by a thin, curved piece of glass. A pierced paper lace ruff and a black satin ribbon were wrapped around the neck. The perfume was housed in a white and black box with a large gold rimmed circular flower picture. For a design conceived within the Art Deco period it was radically different and would not look out of place if designed in the 1960’s or 1970’s.
Significantly as I understand Baccarat only manufactured these ‘Fleurs de Rocaille’ bottles between 1933 and 1935 (after this time these bottles were made by other glassmakers). The Baccarat bottles can be identified by either a Baccarat acid stamp or ‘an inscribed numbers on the cut and polished base and a matching number on the end of the stopper’. These numbers were matched to show which hand finished bottle and stopper went with each other for a perfect sealed fit. (see; caronperfumes.blogspot dot com /2015/07/fleurs-de-rocaille-c1933.)
This bottle has a ‘77’ (using European crossed 7’s) inscribed on it’s base (photograph 12). The bottle and stopper remain sealed and unopened. However when viewed very carefully with a magnifying glass from underneath it is just about possible to make out a matching ‘77’ on the stopper end (I tried to take a macro photograph of this but it proved impossible to capture).
This would strongly suggest that this is an early and extremely rare example of Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron presented in a Baccarat bottle from between 1933 and 1935. This of course is only an opinion and cannot be guaranteed. My research, while fairly intensive, has been limited to the internet. I do not have reference books on the subject. From the photographs provided I hope you will be able to make your own informed decision on and about Fleurs de Rocaille, Baccarat bottles and inscribed numbers.
The bottle measures approximately 2 ¾ inches tall (to the top of the stopper) -by- 2 ½ inches wide (at the shoulder). From the known sizes of Fleurs de Rocaille bottles produced I believe this makes this a fluid 2oz bottle. Again this is from internet based research so is only an opinion, particularly as the packaging gives no weight or size information. The bottle, contents and decorations together weigh approximately 146 grams.
Caron made this perfume as a ‘extrait’. In the photographs provided it is clear that the level of the perfume doesn’t fully reach the shoulder. Of other images that I have seen of sealed Fleurs de Rocaille bottles it would appear that this gap is quite standard, nevertheless although sealed it is quite likely that over 84 years or more some evaporation will have taken place. Because of this, if you were to wear it, the scent and fragrance cannot be guaranteed to match other vintage or indeed more contemporary examples of Fleurs de Rocaille perfume you have and wear.
Overall this listing represents a very rare opportunity to purchase a sealed and almost immaculate example of this classic and ground breaking floral perfume for women from Caron. That it is housed in an original number inscribed Baccarat bottle which dates it to between 1933 and 1935 marks it out as an extremely rare find.
Please note:
Because this perfume is sold as a ‘still sealed original’ it cannot in any circumstances be opened, tried and then returned. It is sold on the assumption that the buyer will be keeping it as an unopened collectors piece. Or in the event of a buyer buying it for personal use that the buyer has had previous experience of this stunning perfume and understands how it would work with them. Further that because it is a vintage perfume it may not have a similar scent or fragrance to that they expect.
Sorry this item will not be sold to Buyers with either no or low or poor feedback, or outside the UK. While perfume can, subject to some restrictions, be shipped within the UK, international shipment is sadly strictly prohibited.
Thank you for looking and please do not hesitate if you have any questions.
Packaging and Posting:
This perfume will be extremely well wrapped and packaged. To ensure safety I will double box your perfume in very sturdy boxes.
Either Royal Mail Special Delivery Guaranteed services or UPS Next Day services will be used. Before posting out I will endeavour to contact you to discuss with you any preferred week day delivery day you may have.
I would be more than happy to personally deliver this item, for free, within a 40 mile radius of Headingley, Leeds. Or for a small fee up to 60 miles. Please just let me know if you require this option on purchase.