For sale is 4 piece Engine and Transmission Mount Set
Fits
2004-2010 Mazda 3 2.0L with Automatic Transmission
Fast same day shipping if paid before 3:00pm and will arrive in 2-4 business days
Product Description
About COPACHI:
We are an auto parts retailer. We have been committed to providing customers with high-quality and professional services, and it is our aim and goal to let customers enjoy the best shopping experience!
Engine Motor Mount Set
Front Right Engine Mount
OE#:
A4402
5375
EM-5375
BCM4-39-060D
BBM4-39-060C
Transmission Mount
OE#:
A4404
9196
EM-9196
BP4N-39-070D
BP4N-39-070C
Rear Torque Strut Mount
OE#:
A4418
9632
EM-9632
BP4N-39-010D
BP4N-39-010A
Rear Motor Mount
OE#:
A4405
9222
EM-9222
BP4S-39-040A
BP4S-39-040B
COPACHI Engine Motor & Transmission Mount Features:
Reduce Noise, Improve Performance
Durable, Easy to Install and Operate
Keep Your Vehicle Stable, Safe and Comfortable
Eliminates Jitter, Reduces Shock and Stress
Engine Motor Mount Kit
Compatible with the Following Vehicles:
Fits for Mazda 3 2004 2.0L L4 Auto Trans
Fits for Mazda 3 2005 2.0L L4 Auto Trans
Fits for Mazda 3 2006 2.0L L4 Auto Trans
Fits for Mazda 3 2007 2.0L L4 Auto Trans
Fits for Mazda 3 2008 2.0L L4 Auto Trans
Fits for Mazda 3 2009 2.0L L4 Auto Trans
How To Diagnose:
1.Visible signs of a failed engine mount include cracks, tears and separation in the rubber, as well as leaking liquid.
2.When a bent or damaged exhaust pipe touches one of the chassis components, it also creates vibration and rattling noise when shifted to Drive or Reverse noticeable inside the car.
3.Usually, when one of the mounts is bad, an engine may appear seating lower on the side of the bad mount.
4.When one engine mount goes bad, it adds more strain on all other mounts. For this reason, it's not uncommon to see all mounts that need replacement at the same time.
Installation Steps:
Step 1: Check for clearance against the firewall before attempting to raise the engine. Tearing radiator hoses, crimping AC lines or cracking distributor caps should be avoided.
Step 2: Secure the engine on a jack with various blocks of wood. Never jack an engine directly by the oil pan. The pan will bend and rupture.
Step 3: Loosen the engine from the mount bolts. Sometimes a long extension and universal joint is the way to go.
Step 4: Next, crawl under the vehicle and loosen the mount-to-frame bo-lts.
Step 5: Jack-up the engine a little at a time and remove the motor mount.
Step 6: Compare the old and new motor mounts. Transfer any heat or drip shields to the new mount.
Step 7: Thread in the mount-to-frame bolts before lowering the engine. This will simplify mount alignment.
Step 8: Lower the engine and fully tighten all bolts.
Step 9: Front-wheel-drive vehicles often have third "dog-bone" motor mounts.