PLEASE READ EVERYTHING TO UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU WILL BE RECEIVING! YOU WILL RECEIVE THE ACTUAL FRETBOARD IN THE PHOTOS.
- Cocobolo is the most visually similar to Brazilian rosewood when it comes to grain and color. Unfortunately, it takes time for fresh cut cocobolo to darken. This particular fretboard was cut from a decades old piece of cocobolo that came from an estate of a retired wood worker. It had great dark patina on the outside (one picture shows it next to a piece I skimmed on the jointer with a very nice patina. You could also dye it. There are some small visual spots that are pin knots and just a small, discolored spot.
-Made for those wanting a professional finished look with perfectly matched inlays to inlay pockets, and inlay pockets that are perfectly centered in between the frets. By the time you buy a slotted fretboard, inlays, and then attempt to route cavity pockets by yourself, I can save you a lot of time and hassle.
- Modern scale fret board using 17.817 as the divisor, but length and width are cut based on vintage specs from the guy in Canada who's last name starts with a B. As such, it is cut for a more narrow vintage binding width, but you can always shave a little more material off each side if you wanted a more modern wider binding. In addition to this, depending on where your templates have come from could affect binding size from my fret board to your neck template that may require you to make some modifications. I have routine buyers that are pleased with these blanks.
- Inlays are cut from better looking pearloid, not cheap swirly looking pearloid. I cut them myself so they match the cavity in the board perfectly.
- Designed to be ~1/4" thick. Each one comes out slightly different.
- 12" already machined into the board, but you will need to remove the slight machining marks
- Fret slots cut to match the radius of the board and meant for a standard 0.023" fret tang width
- Inlay cavities are radiused to match the top of the board. Cavities are finished with a 0.023" diameter end mill for the tightest possible machined corners I can make. You can either work to clean out the corners a little bit more to have the nice pointed corners of the inlays or you can lightly remove the sharp corners of the inlays.
- YOU WILL NEED TO GLUE IN THE INLAYS AND SAND THEM DOWN. INLAYS MAY REQUIRE SOME SLIGHT EDGE SANDING TO FIT! They are designed to be on the larger end of the cavity size to ensure a very nice tight fitting inlay without unsightly gaps in the finished product. This is one trade off to get a very nice tight fitting inlay and having a quality finished product.