~ 6" FALSE BOTTOM FITTING KIT - TUBING, 2 CLAMPS, AND BARB ~
 
Here's a fitting kit to plumb your false bottom to your ball valve inside the brew kettle or mash tun.  This is made from high temp silicone tubing and Stainless Steel only.  There is no brass or galvanized steel.  
Your false bottom will come without complete hardware so we provide this option that will plumb 90% of all false bottoms.  This kit consists of 12" 3/8" High Temp Silicone Tubing, a 1/2" NPT X 3/8" 304 Stainless Steel barb, and two Stainless Steel clamps.  (You might not need them)  We send a total of 12" length of Silicone High Temp Tubing and unless you are converting a Sankey D keg you will only need half that.  Save the rest for later replacement, eventually the wort will turn it yellow.

A False Bottom as shown above is a perforated internal partition at the bottom of the cooler or kettle that screens out 95% or more of large particles as the container is drained.  As one of the most innovative all grain devices, it fits tightly into the bottom of your brew kettle or cooler leaving just enough room for the grain bed.  It spreads the grain out over a larger area for more efficiency in mash and sparge operations.  
 
SHIPS USPS FIRST CLASS MAIL - MOST CUSTOMERS WILL HAVE IT IN 1-4 DAYS

A concave or 'dome' type false bottom comes with the 3/8" barb, elbow, nut, and gasket pre-assembled.  You need a short length (6" ought to do it) of silicone tubing to go between the barb on the false bottom and your cooler side hardware.  Most likely you will also need a 1/2" X 3/8" barb fitting to match, so we bundle them together in this kit.  We can't tell what the exact situation will be inside your mash tun so we have a variety of solutions.  We sell the parts individually if you need them, visit our eBay our store!    A popular barb is our special Female (FPT) barb which eliminates the need for a coupler and helps deal with a ball valve problem 'not enough thread left' to get the coupler on.  

Here's a tip, aside from the one nut touching the cooler, the inside plumbing components don't really need to be taped or even torqued down.  Just thread them on there a couple spins by hand so you can take them apart easily to clean the unit.  Be sure to use stainless steel clamps rather than galvanized, although you might find you don't need clamps at all if your heat rated tubing is tight enough.  If it loosens over time you will have to replace it or start using the clamps.

One of the problems you may encounter is getting too much grain underneath the false bottom.  This can cause problems with draining.  One of the major causes is crushing the grain too finely.  Try not to set your mill below .039.  You can fix this by using a half pound or more of rice hulls which will further filter and channel the grain.  Rice Hulls are needed for most wheat recipes.  Stirring can disturb the bottom causing it to float up and grain get underneath, so when you stir avoid disturbing the False Bottom.  Low mash temperature will make the dough thicker as temperatures drop resulting in poor runoff.  Try to sparge at mash-out temps.  If you get too many grain fragments after you drain,  you can let it cool and settle then rack off the clear stuff with a siphon (leaving the muck on the bottom for further straining), drain through a screen filter, or just pour the clear stuff off through a screen.

ITEM CONDITION: Brand new first quality merchandise.  Description refers to Brew Kettle, Coolers, and False Bottoms which are not included.

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