This tool will work on your '60-'70 Falcon, Fairlane,Ranchero, Torino, Comet and your '71-'73 Mustang amd '71-'72 Cougar. You simply won't use the top plate which is for Mustangs only.
THIS TOOL DOES NOT COME PAINTED!! I DO NOT HAVE THE EPA REQUIRED PAINT FACILITIES TO PAINT THIS. I suggest lightly oiling the tool since it is going to get scratched during use.-The Tommyzees coil spring compressor, the name that stands for quality.
-My only job is vintage Mustangs and Fords, I am not a Johnny Come Lately Ebay seller who copied some one else's product. I will be here to answer any tech question regarding the use of this spring compressor for years to come.
-The original.
-Made in the USA!!
-Thousands sold in 30 years.
-Often imitated, never duplicated.
-The original, don't settle for cheap imitations.
-3/8" thick x 3 1/2" x 1 1/2" heavy duty top plate to spread the load out. A 1/8" thick SAE hardened washer is welded on top of the plate to prevent wear. (DO NOT SETTLE FOR A CHEAP 1/4' THICK TOP PLATE!!)
-Super heavy duty design, this is the last spring compressor you will buy.
-Do not settle for an un-safe design.
-3/4"-10 (B-7) grade threaded rod.
Here is a real problem solver when you are trying to do front suspension work: This is a front coil spring compressor used to remove and install front coil springs on '60- '71 Falcon's, Comets, Ranchero's, Torino's, '64-'70 Mustangs, and '69-'77 Mavericks and their Mercury counterpart Comets. WILL NOT WORK ON '62-'65 Fairlanes. It is made out of heavy gauge steel .120" WALL SQUARE TUBING. Pipe is not a structural material and should not be used for something this critical. This is MIG welded personally by myself, a certified welder. It works by lowering the tool through the hole on top of the shock tower, the lower part of the tool is attached to the lower spring saddle, and the upper shock tower mount is bolted back on to the shock tower. The flat plate is bolted to the shock mount, and the washer and nut are threaded on to the tool. The nut is turned clockwise to compress the spring about 3". With the spring compressed, the spring saddle is un-bolted from the upper control arm and the upper control arm is unbolted from the shock tower. The nut is then turned counter clockwise to release the tension on the spring. Installation is the opposite of the above. I personally build and weld each and every one of these compressors in my fabrication shop, and I have been building them for at least 30 years and I have sold thousands to satisfied customers. This is a very safe and in-expensive compressor to use.
Spring Compressor Instructions
· PLEASE
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETLY BEFORE STARTING TO USE THIS
TOOL.
· THIS TOOL
WILL NOT WORK ON '62-'65 FAIRLANES.
· USE TOOL
AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOLLOWED, THIS IS A VERY SAFE SPRING COMPRESSION
TO USE.
· You can
refer to the Ebay auction where this tool was purchased for a set of
instructions with pictures.
· Please
lubricate the threaded rod and nut with WHITE LITHIUM GREASE, NOT WD-40!!!
· The flat
plate is for Mustang and Cougar applications only.
· One stud
on the tool is slightly longer than the other to aid in reaching the spring
perch holes if the perch is at an angle.
· The flat
plate is drilled for early (’64-’66) and late (’67-’70) Mustang bolt patterns,
it is not mis-drilled.
· YOUR UPPER
SHOCK MOUNT HAS TO BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH THIS TOOL. THE SHOCK MOUNT HAS
TO BOLT BACK ON TOP OF THE SHOCK TOWER. DO NOT TRY TO USE THIS TOOL
WITHOUT THE SHOCK MOUNT IN PLACE.
1.
After safely supporting the vehicle on jackstands, remove the front shocks.
2.
Slide spring compressor down through
the shock tower (threaded rod portion up) and attach it to the lower spring
seat just as you would the lower part of the shock. Install the flat washers on the studs before
the nuts, so they will not pull through the spring seat. You can now re-install
the stock upper shock mount and bolt it to the shock tower using the original
hardware.
3. If you are working on a
vehicle that uses a stud on the upper portion of the shock, you can omit this
next step and simply install the large washer and nut over YOUR STOCK SHOCK
MOUNT. For Mustangs/Cougars that use two
bolts to attach the upper part of the shock, slide the flat plate over the
threaded rod and bolt it to YOUR STOCK SHOCK MOUNT with the original shock hardware. Install the washer and nut on the rod and
tighten until the nut touches the washer.
(lubricate the nut and washer
with motor oil for easier turning)
4. Begin turning the nut clockwise. As the nut turns, it will begin to draw the
spring up towards the top of the shock tower.
You only need to compress the spring enough to be able to unbolt the
lower spring seat from the control arm. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO COMPERSS THE SPRING
COMPLETELY!!!
5. With the
spring compressed approximately 3-4 inches, you can now unbolt the spring seat
from the A arm. You will now need to
remove and the A arm retaining nuts from inside the engine compartment. You do not need to remove the A-arm from the
spindle as you can rotate it out of the way.
If you are having trouble removing the A arm, the spring may need to be compressed
slightly more.
6. Once the A arm is removed, you can now slowly release the
tension on the spring by loosening the 5/8” nut. Reassembly is the exact opposite.
-I
can be reached at 915-490-6644 for help.
Tom
· Usage
Tips:
· When re-installing the spring, align the studs on the spring
seat parallel to the frame rails to make installation on the A arm easier
· On reassembly, when the A arm is re-installed on the car,
leave the studs loose on the shock tower to allow some movement when trying to
align to the spring seat.
· A few steps can be saved on removal by using the vehicles
weight to compress the spring. Remove
the shock, install the compressor, and tighten the nut until it contacts the
flat plate or shock mount. The vehicle can then be jacked up and placed on
jackstands. The spring will already be compressed as you used the vehicle
weight to do the job for you. The other
steps of removing the A arm can now be followed.