I will combine shipping! Add all the items you are interested into your cart and then request the total from me.
In this set, you get:
2 x 7-blade scythe screw for the Airfix HMS Trafalgar kit. This comes with a trailing edge hull part that replaces Airfix parts 37b and 38b, the 7-blade screw, plus two choices of screw boss trailing edge configurations; with and without vortex attenuator.
Royal Navy subs are known for their pump jets...not conventional propellers. They were the first to adopt them way back in the 70s on the Swiftsure class SSN (though the HMS Churchill trialed the Swiftsure class's prototype). However, the first boat of both the Swiftsure and Trafalgar classes had conventional propellers. Thus it's unfortunate that the screw that comes with the Airfix kit is a...thing that resembles...something. A submarine propeller? Mayhaps...on some planet. Let's face it, it's facking awful. So this is my attempt at creating something that is vastly more realistic. I was fortunate to find images (had never seen it before), and locate it on Google Maps, to grab a diameter. The vortex attenuator is speculative as that item is missing off the screw on display; I suspect it was a generation beyond the HMS Resolution's, which is the style I've gone with. I supply my speculative attenuator as well as a simple cap trailing edge, your choice.
This is CAD designed and 3D printed. 3D printing allows fine detailing such as the vortex attenuator to be rendered. And I feel the execution is superior even to the awkward-to-assemble photo-etch versions.
Instructions on how to remove the screw from the sprue:
Given the thin section of the screw blades, some care will need to be taken when removing the screw from the sprue. The resin is by nature brittle, but the sprue is thinnest where it attaches to the screw blade as it attaches at a point, by design. The best practice is to place your flush cut pliers flush up against the bottom of the screw blade, at the point where the sprue attaches, and trim there. Do not trim from the bottom, larger diameter end of the sprue. I've found that the shock of shearing the larger diameter sprue at the bottom can ping the propeller blades right off the screw boss. Work outboard to inboard, that is, trim the outboard sprues first, and then the inboard. As the outboard sprues can obscure the inboard ones, after I've detached it from the screw blade, I then trim it off the base to allow access to the sprues deeper in. Patience and care needs to be taken. Once trimmed, you'll often have a small residual sprue-nub on each propeller blade. I then use a very narrow sanding stick to carefully sand the nub down (I use the flexible/soft and narrow sanding sticks that can be purchased at just about any Hobby Lobby in the U.S.).
Why do I sell 2 units as the minimum quantity? Because ultimately the material is brittle and if care is not taken then you can break the parts. Now, this resin is toughened for sure and I've been pleasantly surprised at how much battering (ooops, dropped it on the floor, ooops, slipped) it can take. But it isn't necessarily about the material as many are familiar with resin kits and this is little different. It's more about how thin these sections have been printed. And as modeling is about enjoyment, I'd hate for someone to purchase these as 1 unit and immediately break the parts and be back to square one. I think having 2 available at least gives you a much better shot. And if you only need 1, share the other with a friend!
I will combine shipping! Add all the items you are interested into your cart and then request the total from me.
Other 1/350 scale submarine items of interest can be found here, from full kits to detail and upgrade sets at my Shapeways store: Shapeways'dot'com/shops/mulsannescorner
1/350 1/400
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