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he Jacquard machine (French: [ʒakaʁ]) is a device fitted to a loom that simplifies the process of manufacturing textiles with such complex patterns as brocade, damask and matelassé.[3] The resulting ensemble of the loom and Jacquard machine is then called a Jacquard loom. The machine was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1804,[4] based on earlier inventions by the Frenchmen Basile Bouchon (1725), Jean Baptiste Falcon (1728), and Jacques Vaucanson (1740).[5] The machine was controlled by a "chain of cards"; a number of punched cards laced together into a continuous sequence.[6] Multiple rows of holes were punched on each card, with one complete card corresponding to one row of the design.

Both the Jacquard process and the necessary loom attachment are named after their inventor. This mechanism is probably one of the most important weaving innovations as Jacquard shedding made possible the automatic production of unlimited varieties of complex pattern weaving. The term "Jacquard" is not specific or limited to any particular loom, but rather refers to the added control mechanism that automates the patterning. The process can also be used for patterned knitwear and machine-knitted textiles, such as jerseys.[7]

This use of replaceable punched cards to control a sequence of operations is considered an important step in the history of computing hardware, having inspired Charles Babbage's Analytical Engine.

History

Traditionally, figured designs were made on a drawloom. The heddles with warp ends to be pulled up were manually selected by a second operator, the draw boy, not the weaver. The work was slow and labour-intensive, and the complexity of the pattern was limited by practical factor.

The first prototype of a Jacquard-type loom was made in the second half of the 15th century by an Italian weaver from Calabria, Jean le Calabrais, who was invited to Lyon by Louis XI.[8][9] He introduced a new kind of machine which was able to work the yarns faster and more precisely. Over the years, improvements to the loom were ongoing.[10]

An improvement of the draw loom took place in 1725, when Basile Bouchon introduced the principle of applying a perforated band of paper. A continuous roll of paper was punched by hand, in sections, each of which represented one lash or tread, and the length of the roll was determined by the number of shots in each repeat of pattern. The Jacquard machine then evolved from this approach.

Joseph Marie Jacquard saw that a mechanism could be developed for the production of sophisticated patterns. He possibly combined mechanical elements of other inventors, but certainly innovated. His machine was generally similar to Vaucanson's arrangement, but he made use of Jean-Baptiste Falcon's individual pasteboard cards and his square prism (or card "cylinder"): he is credited with having fully perforated each of its four sides, replacing Vaucanson's perforated "barrel". Jacquard's machine contained eight rows of needles and uprights, where Vaucanson had a double row. This modification enabled him to increase the figuring capacity of the machine. In his first machine, he supported the harness by knotted cords, which he elevated by a single trap board.

One of the chief advantages claimed for the Jacquard machine was that unlike previous damask-weaving machines, in which the figuring shed was usually drawn once for every four shots, with the new apparatus, it could be drawn on every shot, thus producing a fabric with greater definition of outline.[11]

Jacquard's invention had a deep influence on Charles Babbage. In that respect, he is viewed by some authors as a precursor of modern computing technology.[12]

Principles of operation

A schematic diagram of the Jacquard system

Jacquard diagram. The numbered components are as described in the text.

19th century Engineering drawing of a Jacquard loom.

On the diagram, the cards are fastened into a continuous chain (1) which passes over a square box. At each quarter rotation a new card is presented to the Jacquard head which represents one row (one "pick" of the shuttle carrying the weft). The box swings from the right to the position shown and presses against the control rods (2). Where there is a hole the rod passes through the card and is unmoved whereas if the hole is not punched the rod is pushed to the left. Each rod acts upon a hook (3). When the rod is pushed in, the hook moves out of position to the left, a rod that is not pushed in leaves its hook in place. A beam (4) then rises under the hooks and those hooks in the rest location are raised; the hooks that have been displaced are not moved by the beam. Each hook can have multiple cords (5). The cords pass through a guide(6) and are attached to their heddle (7) and a return weight (8). The heddles raise the warp to create the shed through which the shuttle carrying the weft will pass. A loom with a 400 hook head might have four threads connected to each hook, resulting in a fabric that is 1600 warp ends wide with four repeats of the weave going across.

The term "Jacquard loom" is somewhat inaccurate. It is the "Jacquard head" that adapts to a great many dobby looms that allow the weaving machine to then create the intricate patterns often seen in Jacquard weaving.

Jacquard-driven looms, although relatively common in the textile industry, are not as ubiquitous as dobby looms which are usually faster and much cheaper to operate. However, dobby looms are not capable of producing so many different weaves from one warp. Modern jacquard machines are controlled by computers in place of the original punched cards, and can have thousands of hooks.

The threading of a Jacquard machine is so labor-intensive that many looms are threaded only once. Subsequent warps are then tied into the existing warp with the help of a knotting robot which ties each new thread on individually. Even for a small loom with only a few thousand warp ends the process of re-threading can take days.

Mechanical Jacquard devices

Punched cards in use in a Jacquard loom.

A punch for Jacquard cards

Originally the Jacquard machines were mechanical, and the fabric design was stored in a series of punched cards which were joined to form a continuous chain. The Jacquards often were small and only independently controlled a relatively few warp ends. This required a number of repeats across the loom width. Larger capacity machines, or the use of multiple machines, allowed greater control, with fewer repeats, and hence larger designs could be woven across the loom width.

A factory must choose looms and shedding mechanisms to suit its commercial requirements. As a rule the more warp control required the greater the expense. So it is not economical to purchase Jacquard machines if one can make do with a dobby mechanism. As well as the capital expense, the Jacquard machines are more costly to maintain, as they are complex and require higher skilled personnel; an expensive design system is required to prepare the designs for the loom, and possibly a card-cutting machine. Weaving is more costly since Jacquard mechanisms are more likely to produce faults than dobby or cam shedding. Also, the looms will not run as quickly and down-time will increase because it takes time to change the continuous chain of cards when a design changes. For these reasons it is best to weave larger batches with mechanical Jacquards.

Electronic Jacquard machines

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It is recorded that in 1855, a Frenchman[13] adapted the Jacquard mechanism to a system by which it could be worked by electro-magnets. There was significant interest, but trials were not successful, and the development was soon forgotten.

Bonas Textile Machinery NV launched the first successful electronic Jacquard at ITMA Milan in 1983.[14][a] Although the machines were initially small, modern technology has allowed Jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly, and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends.[16] That avoids the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allows almost infinite versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the down time associated with changing punched paper designs, thus allowing smaller batch sizes. However, electronic Jacquards are costly and may not be required in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs. The larger machines allowing single end warp control are very expensive, and can only be justified where great versatility is required, or very specialized design requirements need to be met. For example, they are an ideal tool to increase the ability and stretch the versatility of the niche linen Jacquard weavers who remain active in Europe and the West, while most of the large batch commodity weaving has moved to low cost areas.[citation needed]

Linen products associated with Jacquard weaving are linen damask napery, Jacquard apparel fabrics and damask bed linen. Jacquard weaving uses all sorts of fibers and blends of fibers, and it is used in the production of fabrics for many end uses. Jacquard weaving can also be used to create fabrics that have a Matelassé or a brocade pattern.[17] Research is under way[when?][needs update] to develop layered and shaped items as reinforcing components for structures made from composite materials.[citation needed]

The woven silk prayer book

A pinnacle of production using a Jacquard machine is a prayer book, woven in silk. The book's title is Livre de Prières. Tissé d'après les enluminures des manuscrits du XIVe au XVIe siècle.[18][19] All 58 pages of the prayer book were made of silk, woven using a Jacquard machine, using black and gray thread. The pages have elaborate borders with text and pictures of saints. It is estimated that 200,000 to 500,000 punch cards were necessary to encode the pages, at 160 threads per cm (400 threads per inch).

It was issued in 1886 and 1887, in Lyon, France. It was publicly displayed at the 1889 Exposition Universelle (World's Fair). It was designed by R.P.J. Hervier, woven by J.A. Henry and published by A. Roux.[20] It took 2 years and almost 50 trials to get correct. An estimated 50 or 60 copies were produced.

Importance in computing

The Jacquard head used replaceable punched cards to control a sequence of operations. It is considered an important step in the history of computing hardware.[21] The ability to change the pattern of the loom's weave by simply changing cards was an important conceptual precursor to the development of computer programming and data entry. Charles Babbage knew of Jacquard machines and planned to use cards to store programs in his Analytical Engine. In the late 19th century, Herman Hollerith took the idea of using punched cards to store information a step further when he created a punched card tabulating machine which he used to input data for the 1890 U.S. Census. A large data processing industry using punched-card technology was developed in the first half of the twentieth century—dominated initially by the International Business Machine corporation (IBM), with its line of unit record equipment. The cards were used for data, however, with programming done by plugboards.

Some early computers, such as the 1944 IBM Automatic Sequence Controlled Calculator (Harvard Mark I) received program instructions from a paper tape punched with holes, similar to Jacquard's string of cards. Later computers executed programs from higher-speed memory, though cards were commonly used to load the programs into memory. Punched cards remained in use in computing up until the mid-1980s.

The Bates Mill is a textile factory company founded in 1850 and located at 35 Canal Street in Lewiston, Maine. The mill served as Maine's largest employer through the 1860s, and early profits from the mill provided much of the initial capital for nearby Bates College. Currently, the mill buildings are home to several new businesses, apartments, and a small museum.

Maine Governor John Hubbard signed the incorporation act on August 16, 1850 and Mill #1 was completed in 1852. Bates built the mill in Lewiston due to its location at Lewiston Falls, which initially provided power to the mill.

History

Benjamin Bates, founder of the Bates Mill and nearby Bates College

Benjamin Bates, a Boston entrepreneur, founded the textile mill in 1850 with several co-investors in the Bates Manufacturing Company. Maine Governor John Hubbard signed the incorporation act on August 16, 1850 and Mill #1 was completed in 1852. Bates built the mill in Lewiston due to its location at Lewiston Falls, which initially provided power to the mill. The Mill was operated by water power from the Androscoggin River, and combined power spinning and weaving on looms. The Mill produced textiles until the 21st century. During the American Civil War, the factory produced textiles for the Union Army with southern cotton it had stockpiled prior to the War. Thousands of immigrants from Canada and Europe immigrated to Lewiston to gain employment at the mills.

The mill complex, as the Bates Mill Historic District, was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2010.

Today

Currently, the rehabilitated Bates Mill Complex is the site of Baxter Brewing Co., TD Bank, Androscoggin Savings Bank offices and The Symquest Group, Fishbones Casual Fine Dining Restaurant, Davinchi's Italian Restaurant, Grand Rounds, Northeast Bank, Bates Mill Dermatology, Community Health Options, Cross Insurance and Museum L-A: The Story of Work and Community in Lewiston-Auburn. There are now almost 2,000 people living and working in the Bates Mill Complex.

On July 15, 2009, Bates Mill Building No. 5 briefly caught on fire from embers from the nearby Cowan Mill which was completely destroyed by fire. Building No. 5, a 356,000-square-foot (33,100 m2) weaving shed, was designed by Albert Kahn and placed in service in 1914. The structure was owned by the city of Lewiston, Maine, was vacant for several years, and was slated for demolition as recently as 2009,[1] until its rebirth as a technology center in 2017 when healthcare technology company Grand Rounds leased 22,00 square feet in Bates Mill No. 6 to establish an east coast center employing up to 200 Maine residents.[2][3]

On January 5, 2011, The Lofts at Bates Mill was awarded $5.2 million in low-income housing tax credits by the Maine State Housing Authority to convert Building No. 2 into 48 mixed-income apartments.[4] The $9.2 million project includes 33 subsidized apartments and 15 market-rate apartments. Construction began 2011 and the apartments were completed late in 2012.[5]

See also

Bates College

Museum L-A

National Register of Historic Places listings in Androscoggin County, Maine

Benjamin Edward Bates IV (Listen[permanent dead link]/beɪtɛs/; July 12, 1808 – January 14, 1878) was an American rail industrialist, textile tycoon and philanthropist. He was the wealthiest person in Maine from 1850 to 1878,[2][3][4] and is considered to have introduced both the Efficiency and Taylorism movements to the economy of Maine.

Bates was born to a large family in Mansfield, Massachusetts; he moved to Bristol, Maine, for a working residency at B. T. Loring Company before creating the Davis, Bates & Turner–a craft goods and service firm in the early 1830s. After entering the milling business, he built the Bates Mill in 1852 which launched the larger Bates Manufacturing Company in Lewiston, Maine. His company quickly became the largest per capita employer in Maine and the largest in Lewiston, for three decades. Contracted by the Maine State Legislature, Bates founded the Lewiston Water Power Company: a large mill-based enterprise that built the first canal in the city.

At the start of the American Civil War, Bates correctly anticipated that the talk of secession in the Southern States would lead to a shortage of cotton. By buying up an unprecedented amount prior to the Battle of Fort Sumter, he cornered the market. The resulting shortage created an absolute monopoly and skyrocketing prices, which drove dozens of New England businesses to close due to the inability to compete. Growing economic inequality in the city culminated to 1861 Lewistown cotton riots which led Bates to loosen his expansionary business tactics and increase philanthropic spending.

Like other business magnates at the time, such as J.P. Morgan, Andrew Carnegie, and John D. Rockefeller, Bates supported capitalism and anti-competitiveness. The public's opinion of Bates was highly polarized throughout his life with some citing his economic impact as critical, while others criticized his business tactics as socially detrimental.[5][2]

Early life and education

Benjamin Edward Bates IV, was born in Mansfield, Massachusetts, on July 12, 1808, to Hannah Copeland and Elkanah Bates as their third child (of seven). His father, Elkanah Bates, was a cotton manufacturer and prominent merchant.[6] Both of his parents were religious and belonged to the Congregational Church of Mansfield. In 1838, there was a denominational split within the church to create a Unitarian theologian association that questioned the divinity of Christ, Elkanah Bates was picked to lead the movement. His paternal grandfather fought in the American Revolution as a Captain, and later became a brigadier general for the Massachusetts state militia.[7] He is the great-great grandson of Benjamin Bates II, Commander of the Devonshire Forces, and member of the Hell Fire Club. When Bates was a younger boy, his brother recounts him being dragged by two horses across a "considerable distance" which left him badly cut and bruised, he pulled the horses down and eventually halted their movement, a considerable task considering Bates was only 14 years old at the time.[8]

Bates attended various private schools and enrolled at the age of 15 to the Wrentham Academy, and studied there from 1823 to 1825, before moving to Boston, Massachusetts in 1829, at age 21. Bates entered the dry goods business with Barnabas T. Loring on Washington Street. At age 24, he made a public profession of Christian faith, and he was a lifelong Congregationalist and temperance supporter. Bates taught Sunday school at several churches in Boston including Park Street Church and was later an active member of Central Congregational Church in Boston.[9]

Business pursuits

B. T. Loring & Co.

John G. Davis met Benjamin Bates in the early 1830s and the two later became business partners. They met while Bates was a clerk for Barnabas T. Loring on Washington Street after a mutual friend offered "a firm with respected work."[10] At the time with Bates' net worth was at $700, which was considered lower-middle class at the time. The firm subsequently organized as the B. T. Loring Company. The firm's market expanded widely throughout Maine and went on to depart from retail and focus on whole sale, which was made possible by the connections Bates had made throughout his career in Bristol, Maine. One year later, they moved "downtown" from Washington Street to Central Street, and continued operations. Barnabas T. Loring died prompting the group to dissolve B. T. Loring & Co., and create Davis, Bates, & Turner.[11]

Workers in industrial Lewiston, in the late nineteenth century

Davis, Bates & Turner

With the conclusion of B. T. Loring & Co., Bates co-founded the firm of Davis, & Bates, which existed from 1833 until 1847. The firm enjoyed financial success as its previous deals garnered high standing among the mercantile community of Maine. With the firm on stable footing, John N. Turner developed an interest and discussed furthered involvement. As a mutual friend of Bates, and his background in law, he was tasked with bookkeeping and legal relations. The firm amassed tens of thousands of dollars within years and the firm continued to grow.[12] Turner was officially brought in on February 13, 1833, and the firm was officially renamed Davis, Bates & Turner.[13]

Efficiency movement

Bates was known for his part in integrating the early manifestations of Taylorism in industrial Maine. His management style required high levels of managerial control and power over aggregated output which subsequently strained work practices. His firms were known for long work hours, poor working conditions and high output.[14] He tended to his businesses "compulsively and incessantly" and often disregarded pressures to start a family, however did leave them with a considerable fortune at his death.[15]

Financial panic of 1837

In 1837, the firm experienced low levels of revenue and output due to the external effects of panics involving financial security and credit in New York City. Considered the "greatest financial panic the country has ever seen", the Panic of 1837 caused numerous firms all over New England to fail, and Davis, Bates & Turner, often had trouble assessing market value and withdrawing loans from the banks. The firm remained active and even put up positive net return on some years during the panic due to their good credit and lack of debt.[16] Due to the overall speculative markets involving whole sale goods, Bates' firm remained cautious when selling and taking out loans for restructuring. News from New York was delivered to Maine stating further banking regulation and overall stabilization of market prices, which brought the state out of a recessive period into a sustained growth. The news was received by Bates personally when George Bond, declared that loans would be issued by the New York Banks once again.[17]

Tompkins square riot in the 1870s, due to lack of credit stability of Manhattan banks

During the recovery consultations between Maine and Massachusetts business leaders, a prominent banker, Homer Bartlett was quoted as famously saying,

Who was the strongest man in that meeting [referring to the financial panics]?

To which the crowd overwhelmingly replied,

Bates! Bates was the strongest man there.[18]

This quote would go on to largely shape Bates' minor celebrity status and fed the growing reputation of producing the best results in times of uncertainty. The crowd included, Lyman Nichols, George L. Ward, Alexander De Witt, Francis Skinner, Homer Bartlett, and St. John Smith.[19] In 1840, the firm moved to Water Street, and five years later moved to Milk Street, where Davis withdrew from the firm due to poor health.[20]

Bates, Turner & Co. and Union Pacific

Siles Bascom replaced Davis and the firm was renamed Bates, Turner & Co. The firm enjoyed financial success and began to conclude its practice with the closing of markets in March 1847.[21] After the dissolution of the firm, Bates served as president and on the board of several banking, manufacturing, and railroad corporations, including First National Bank of Commerce in Boston. Due to his activities during the financial panic of 1837, he was asked to be the founding successor president of the Union Pacific Railroad on August 1, 1849; he served in this capacity until May 3, 1850, when Alexander De Witt spoke to him about opportunities in Lewiston, Maine prompting his immediate resignation.[22]

Life in Lewiston

Alexander De Witt advised Bates on development strategy in Lewiston.

Bates travel to Lewiston regularly while living in Boston and other Maine towns, to "interact with the people, give guidance to the businesses, and support its economy."[23] After the closing of Bates, Turner & Co., and a quick stint as president of the Union Pacific Railroad, he moved to Lewiston, Maine upon the advisement of his close friend and confidant Alexander De Witt who went on describe Lewiston as a "city full of hope and innovation."[24] He was escorted to the town secretly with De Witt, to meet with the city council and Mayor to discuss major developments in the town.

Bates Manufacturing Company

Bates quickly began developing companies, acquiring smaller ones under his Manufacturing Company, and subsequently brought in sixteen million dollars in revenue for the town, the largest circulation of currency in the history of Lewiston at the time.[1] His businesses provided employment for thousands of people from Maine and Canada,[2] which made him the single largest employer in the city, and the largest per capita of Maine. His businesses garnered millions of dollars for the city and with all assets accounted for in Maine and Massachusetts, he was considered the wealthiest man in Maine via his net worth.[25][2]

His principle accomplishment during his early business career was the establishment of Bates Manufacturing Company. The company went on to be the largest manufacturing company in the state of Maine and provided two-thirds of all textile output for the state.[14] It employed approximately five thousand people from Canadian and Irish descent. He served as the president of the company from its founding on January 3, 1850 until he appointed a successor to overtake the company as he left for Lewiston, Maine on February 20, 1862.[2]

Lewiston Water Power Company

One of the primary goals of other business leaders in Maine and Bates was to improve the water quality of Lewiston. Bates went on to found the Lewiston Water Power Company, which built the first canal in the city. It employed hundreds of people and established the town as a "paragon of water quality."[2] During this development Lewiston was the fastest growing city in Maine, in terms of growth rate.[5]

Bates Mill

Main article: Bates Mill

Bates Mill and Canal

The Bates Mill was a textile factory company founded in 1850 and located at 35 Canal Street in Lewiston, Maine. Much of the capital generated from this mill was used in the foundation of Bates College. Since conception, Bates' practices with the mill dominated the mill industry and was one of the first great U.S. business trusts. He initially gained wealth and influence from manufacturing textiles and estate development with correspondence to the mills.[2] His mills extended from the Androscoggin River to northern Lewiston.[5] On August 16, 1850, Maine Governor John Hubbard signed the incorporation act and the mill was completed 1852. Bates positioned the mill in Lewiston due to the location of the Lewiston Falls which provided the mill with power. Under Bates' supervision, during the Civil War, the mill produced textiles to the Union Army. His mills generated employment for thousands of Canadians, and immigrants from Europe. The mill was Maine's largest employer for three decades.[26][2]

1861 Lewistown cotton riots

Like numerous factories in Maine, Bates' mill was receiving cotton from the South, where it was grown and cultivated by slave labor. Correctly anticipating that the increasing talk of secession in the Southern States might eventually lead to a shortage of cotton, Bates bought an unprecedented amount of cotton prior to the Battle of Fort Sumter.[2] During the War, Bates was able to produce uniforms for the Union Army as well as other textiles. His capitalization of this, saw to great levels of profit for his firms and companies, and caused dozens of mills to be closed due to overwhelming competition.[7] After a rumor was spread around Lewiston that Bates held more money than the city, riots broke out in 1861, that decried the concentration wealth presented by Bates. Due to pressure from the public, he lessened his business tactics and created the philanthropic arm of the Bates Manufacturing Company tasked with giving out thousands to the people of Lewiston. During the riots his public image was tarnished and was advised by DeWitt to employ more people in his Mills.[2] The Lewiston Sun Journal called him "the supplier of the cause," after he spoke at a town hall meeting detailing his employment of thousands of New Englanders and Canadians.[27][28]

Later life and wealth

Economic panic of 1873

Main article: Panic of 1873

A bust of Bates sculpted by Franklin Simmons in 1872, held at the Boston Commonwealth Museum

Bates pledged another $100,000 to be paid to the Maine State Seminary after his death, but due to the economic recession in the 1870s, known as the Panic of 1873, Bates' Lewiston assets were lessened. During this financial crisis many of his properties lessened in value and he was forced to refinance. Due to the dependence of Lewiston on Bates many citizens suffered financially in the personal losses of Bates. After the stabilization of his properties and business contracts he began a further expansion into Lewiston's economic environment, and regained considerable wealth. He built Bates Mill No.5 which became his fastest growing Mill within years and provided the city with substantial employment.[1]

Wealth

By his death in 1878, Bates had amassed a total net worth of approximately $79.4 million[1][2] (worth $1.84 billion in 2017). This includes assets held in Maine, New York, and Massachusetts that encompassed the non-operational value of B. T. Loring & Co., Bates, Turner & Co., his holding company the Bates Manufacturing Company, his stake in the Lewiston Water Company, Bates Mill, and miscellaneous banking endeavors in New York. He donated a total of $100,000 to the endowment, and approximately $250,000 to Bates College, indirectly and left a trust of $3.3 million to his family.[7] In his will he pledged $50,000 to his wife Sarah Gilbert along with his 2.8 million dollar estate, $10,000 to his brother William, $10,000 to his brother Elkanah Bates II, $10,000 equally divided among the children of his sister, Charlotte, $10,000 to Edward Atkinson, and $10,000 to George Fabian. He left each of his children, Benjamin Edward V, Lilian, Sarah, and Author $250,000 in the form of a trust.[29]

However, Bates had $200,000 in outstanding debt and a pledged $100,000 to Bates College after his death. His family was required expend the $100,000 pledged but due to conditions placed on the inheritances, restricted distribution, and familial debt, the Supreme Judicial Court of Massachusetts eventually ruled that Bates' heirs did not have to pay Bates College the pledged $100,000. After a period of recession the college began to financially recuperate to a larger endowment, independently. Over the next couple of years Bates College's endowment has grown slowly and steadily.[2]

Philanthropy

The Maine State Seminary in 1852

Bates was the largest of the early donors to Maine State Seminary through the Lewiston Power Company. He was known by the people of Lewiston for having a "deep and profound love" for the town and the college, and its early founder mentioned his affection by noting: "I have frequently heard him say that he would not knowingly do anything against the interests of the people; and that he would sooner invest ten dollars in Lewiston than one dollar in any other place. 'I love Lewiston', 'I love the College', he was accustomed to say, 'Say to the Trustees that I love the College.'"[28]

Oren Burbank Cheney

In 1852, he personally pledged another $6,000 to the school. In 1853, Oren Burbank Cheney appointed him as a Trustee of the College and in 1854 subsequently became Chairman of the Board of Trustees of the college due to his considerable donations.[30] He went onto donate $25,000 for the foundation of agriculture department and moved a subscription of $75,000 for campus expansion. On February 21, 1873, he donated $100,000 on the condition that the amount was met by third-party donors, within five years. Although he placed conditions on his donations, he realized his donations regardless of the conditions being met.[1] The college remained a source of worry for Bates as much of the subscriptions to the college remained unfilled, donors were giving half of their donations and not fulfilling the other half, which left the endowment of the college in a speculative state. Bates served as the treasurer for the college in the early days and condemned the business strategy Cheney developed when interacting with potential donors advocating for a more aggressive procedure for funding.[1]

His work with the college prompted fellow business magnate, Andrew Carnegie, to donate a considerable amount to the formation of the college and subsequently had the college's science building named after him.[31] Bates played an integral role in the expansion of the college, moving from town to town and state to state spreading the institutions name. This brought in tens of thousands of dollars from the politically elite and wealthy who donated more on a favor to Bates than love of the college, as Bates had graduated little alumnus who went on to amass wealth.[1][2]

By his death in 1878, Bates' donations to the college totalled over $100,000, and overall contributions valued at US$250,000 (worth US$6.2 million in March 2017 dollars).[1] On March 16, 1864, the founder of the Maine State Seminary, Oren Burbank Cheney, renamed his institution of higher learning, "Bates College," in honor of Bates.[2][14][32] However, when hearing that the college was renamed after him, he expressed his disappointment. He thought that he was not worthy of a college of "[such] inception and history," later noting his guilt for raising money for the college because donors might have thought he was raising money for himself.[1]

Death and legacy

Benjamin Bates' donations to the foundation of the Maine State Seminary led the founder of the college to rename the college in his honor in 1864.

Bates' grave at the Mount Auburn Cemetery in Cambridge, Massachusetts

Benjamin Bates died on January 14, 1878 at age 69, in Boston, Massachusetts.[33][34] His body was entombed at the Mount Auburn Cemetery on Fir Avenue in Cambridge, Massachusetts two days later.[33]

Bates Street, West Bates Street, and East Bates Street in Lewiston and Auburn, Maine, respectively, are named in his honor.[2]

His death was attended by Lewiston, Boston, and New York City elite, and the Mayors of numerous cities gave speeches on his life. His funeral was held in the Lewiston City Hall, and clergymen gave speeches on his commitment to the college and God.[35]

He was survived by his wife, Sarah Chapman Gilbert (his second wife and daughter of Joseph Gilbert, niece of Abijah Gilbert) who lived from 1832 to 1882 and his four children:

Josephine Bates Hammond (1839–1886)

Benjamin Edward Bates V (1863–1906)

Sarah Frances Bates Herschel (1867–1937)

Lillian Gilbert Bates (1872–1951)

Arthur Hobart Herschel (1870–1953)

Bates College's inaugural president, Oren Burbank Cheney said the following of Bates delivering his eulogy:

Bates wanted labor for our laborers, education for our children, places of worship for our worshipers, light for our streets, water for our houses, and a hospital for our sick and our dying. I have heard the man [Bates] speak of his love for Lewiston, and his love for the college. While in Lewiston, our desires were his desires: our interests were his interests: and our affairs his affairs...[1][34]

Alfred J. Lebel, a Lewiston native, attended Bates College, and went on to run the Bates Manufacturing Company from 1985 to 1999.[36]

A woven coverlet or coverlid (derived from Cat. cobre-lit[1]) is a type of bed covering with a woven design in colored wool yarn on a background of natural linen or cotton. Coverlets were woven in almost every community in the United States from the colonial era until the late 19th century.[2]

History

Coverlets of 18th century America were twill-woven with a linen warp and woolen weft. The wool was most often dyed a dark blue from indigo, but madder red, walnut brown,[2][3] and a lighter "Williamsburg blue" were also used.

Two beds topped by colored coverlets

From the turn of the 19th century, simple twill-woven coverlets gave way to patterned hand-woven coverlets made in two different ways:[2]

Overshot weave coverlets were made with a plain woven undyed cotton warp and weft and repeating geometric patterns made with a supplementary dyed woolen weft. Made on a simple four-harness loom, overshot coverlets were often made in the home and remained a common craft in rural Appalachia into the early 20th century.[4]

Double-cloth coverlets were double-woven, with two sets of interconnected warps and wefts, requiring the more elaborate looms of professional weavers. Wool for these coverlets was spun (and often dyed) at home and then delivered to a local weaver who made up the coverlet.[2]

Jacquard coverlet, 1858, Children's Museum of Indianapolis.

Summer-winter coverlets were reversible, and the summer-winter term refers to the structure not the color. The summer-winter coverlet should not be confused with double weave and is more closely related to overshot. Like double weave, it is dark on one side and light on the other but there is only one layer of cloth, therefore it is much lighter in mass and thickness.

Following the introduction of the jacquard loom in the early 1820s, machine-woven coverlets in large-scale floral designs became popular.[5]